DA
DaC-
GUIDE TO DARTMOOR
NORTHERN & EASTERN SECTION
comprising:
TAVISTOCK, LYDFORD,
Ikehampton & SticRlepath Districts,
AND
CHAGFORD, MORETON,
, tleigh 6 Bovey Tracey Districts.
By
W. CROSSING,
A. WHEATON 6 Co., Ltd.,
Bonk*ellcrs 61 Stationers,
223 High Street, EXETER, and 6XMOUTH,
FOREWORD.
Having purchased the remaining stock of Mr. Crossing's " GUIDE
TO DARTMOOR,'' we have pleasure in offering the same to the lovers of
Dartmoor in a more convenient form than previously issued, ar\d it is
hoped in the amended form it will prove much more practicable <o the
Rambler and the Tourist.
This volume comprises Parts 2 and 3, which covers the Northern and
imiUlUiM uf Uie_Moor. The .Sojithern and Western portions,
containing Parts 1,4 and 5, can be obtained in a uniform volume, which
describes Princetown, Two Bridges, Ashburton, Brent, Ivybridge,
Plympton, Shaugh, Yelverton and the surrounding Tors, Crosses
and Antiquities.
Visitors to the West will find our moorland country a source of
interest and delight, and during their perambulations will no doubt be
glad to become acquainted with other works relating to Glorious
Devon. We therefore invite enquiries, which shall receive prompt and
careful attention.
A. WHEATON & Co., LTD.
223 HIGH STREET, EXETER.
GUIDE TO DARTMOOR:
A Topographical Description
of the Forest and Commons
BY
WILLIAM CROSSING,
AUTHOR OF
Tke Ancient Stone Crosses of Dartmoor and Its Borderland, Amid Devonia's Alpx
Tales of the Dartmoor Pixies, Gems in a Granite Setting, A Hundred
Years on Dartmoor, Folk Rhymes of Devon,
From a Dartmoor Cot, S-c.
t
WITH MAPS AND SKETCHES.
A NEW EDITION IN FIVE PARTS.
PART U.
Tavistock, Lydford, Okehampton and
Sticklepath Districts.
' The Freehold of Nature, though rugged it be,
Long, long may it flourish unsullied and free !
May the fox love to kennel, the buzzard to soar,
As tenants of Nature on rugged Dartmoor."
Rev. E. W. L. DA VIES.
fiieter :
A. WHEATON & Co., Ltd., Booksellers and Stationers,
223 High Street.
OUT OF THE LAND OF GORSE AND HEATHER
TO
THE RIGHT WORSHIPFUL
TUB MAYOR AND MAYORESS OF PLYMOUTH,
A. EDMUND SPENDER, B.A.,
AND
HELEN FRANCES SPENDER,
GREETING.
871798,
PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION.
THE favourable reception accorded to the former editions of this Guide
has rendered a further issue necessary. In this some considerable
alterations in the arrangement have been made. While a description
of Dartmoor in one volume had much to recommend it, the plan was
also not without its disadvantages. The ground covered being
extensive it was impossible to produce such a book as the author
considered the subject demanded without its becoming rather bulky,
and this was inconvenient from the tourist's point of view. It is now
divided into five parts, but there has been no abridgement of matter.
The few alterations in the text are chiefly of the nature of additions
which were needed in order to bring the book up to date.
The author is much gratified at knowing that the Guide has been
found helpful by the tourist in the past, and ventures to believe that
in its present form it will prove of still greater value in the future.
Br.ACK DOWN, DARTMOOR,
May 1914.
vi.
DARTMOOR GUIDE.
EXETER.
POPLE'S
NEW LONDON HOTEL
(Visited by their Majesties The King and Queen, King Edward VII.
and Queen Victoria.)
Officially appointed by the " Royal Automobile Club,"
and the "Automobile Association."
A charming i8th Century Hotel, with every modern comfort
and luxury. Beautiful covered Courtyard as Lounge. Near the
Cathedral and Railway Stations. Electric Light. Night Porter.
SPLENDID MOTOR GARAGE
Adjoining the Hotel, with Lock-up Private Boxes and
Inspection Pits.
Telegrams: " Pople, Exeter.
Telephone: 146, Exeter.
R. POPLE, Proprietor.
Houses
Let
Sold
Built
Repaired
Painted
Decorated.
For anything to do
with Houses or
Building
Land in
The
Howard,
Contractor
and House Agent
ROCKVALE, YELVERTON.
PREFACE.
DURING recent years the claims of Dartmoor as a holiday and health
resort have become widely recognized. Those to whom an old world
region is an attraction will find in it a field of surpassing interest. No
district in England of similiar extent is so rich in pre-historic remains,
and :in none does Nature wear a wilder aspect.
To this elevated tract of land no guide book, in the true sense of
the term, has hitherto appeared. It has, of course, been noticed in
county guides, and there are also topographical works and handbooks
descriptive of it, but in the former the accounts are necessarily super-
ficial, while in the latter the visitor is not given any directions for
finding his way over those parts of the waste remote from roads. To
enable him to learn what Dartmoor really is he needs something beyond
notices of the more celebrated, because more readily accessible, places
and objects of interest. He should be led from the beaten track, and
wander among the hills where signs of man's occupancy are not, where
silence broods over the sea of fen, and the pasture grounds of the
cattle that range at will are as they were when the Norman herdsman
drove his beasts there ; or he should stray into solitary combes
encumbered with the ruined huts and fallen rock-pillars of the people
who once made this wild land their home. As my acquaintance with
Dartmoor is a life-long one, and as it has been with me a subject of
study and of systematic investigation during many years, it is with
some degree of confidence that I take upon myself the task of con-
ducting the visitor over it, and leading him into its remoter parts.
This book is the first to give a complete topographical description
of Dartmoor, and the reader may depend upon its being correct. Its
aim is to furnish the visitor with an account of all that is to be found
on the moor worthy of note, and to acquaint him with the best means
of reaching the various objects from any point. The districts into
which the moor has been divided are described in the excursions, and
vili PREFACE.
at the end of these are given routes to each of the other districts. By
this arrangement the moor is crossed in every conceivable direction,
so that it is not possible to find any part of it that is not noticed some-
where in the book. For the sake of convenience the terms used in
connection with the forest and commons are given, with their mean-
ings, in glossarial form, some archa?ological terms being also included.
I desire to express my thanks to Mr. PHILIP GUY STKVENS, of
Princetown, for the series of pen-and-ink sketches he has been at such
pains to furnish, and which were executed on the spot. It is hoped
they will be found useful as a means of helping the visitor to identify
the principal tors and hills.
If I gain the confidence of the rambler who uses this book my
satisfaction will be complete. There is some reason for me to hope
that I shall do so, as I venture to believe that he will discover ere we
have gone far on our wanderings together that I am really and truly a
Dartmoor man.
Ji *
"Plume of Feathers" Hotel,
OKEHAMPTON.
FOR TOURISTS AND VISITORS TO THE MOORS.
Situate in the centre of the town, and within easy reach of the
Golf Links. — — Motor Cars, Landaus, Wagonettes, etc., for hire.
Telegrams: "Plume, Okehampton." Telephone No. 15.
W. Y. PALMER, Proprietor.
THE DARTMOOR
SANITARY HAND AND STEAM LAUNDRY
North Street, OKEHAMPTON.—
The water used is supplied from the springs of Dartmoor.
Spacious Open-air Drying Ground. No Chemicals used.
Weekly Collection and Delivery by Motor Van.
Your Patronage Solicited. . . Inspection Invited.
J. T. MILLER,
Telephone No. 6. Proprietor.
CONTENTS,
PART II.
PAGE
Road Distances to Tavistock i
„ „ Lydford 30
,, ,, Okehampton 59
Important Points near Tavistock i
Lydford 30
,, ,, Okehampton 60
Excursion 7. Prom Tavistock 2
8 ,, ,, 8
,, 9 ,, ,, 16
Shorter Excursions ,, 15 to 24 23
Route 9. Tavistock to Lydford and Okehampton 25
10. ,, Chagford and Moreton 25
,, n. ,, Bovey Tracey 27
,, 12. ,, Ashburton and Buckfastleigh 27
13. ,, Brent and Ivybridge 27
14. ,. Plympton and Shaugh 27
15. ,, Princetown and Two Bridges 27
Routes to Cranmere from Tavistock and Brent Tor 28
Lydford Gorge 30
Excursion 10. Prom Lydford 31
n. ,, , 38
(Including Extension to Fur Tor and Cut Hill).
Excursion 12. From Lydford 47
13- ,. ., 49
Cut Hill to Princetown and Two Bridges 44, 45
Shorter Excursions from Lydford. 25 to 33 53
x. CONTENTS. PART II.
PAGE
Route 1 6. Lydford to Okehampton 55
17. ,, Chagford and Moreton 55
,, 18. ,, Bovey Tracey 55
19. ,, Ashburton 56
,, 20. ,, Brent and Ivybridge 56
„ 21. ,, Plympton and Shaugh 56
„ 22. ,, Princetown 57
(For Two Bridges direct see R. 18, 19. Reverse R. 51, 44 ; or R. 2B).
Route 23. I/ydford to Tavistock 57
Routes to Cranmere from Lydford, Bridestowe, and Sourton . . 57
Okehampton 61
„ to Belstone and Sticklepath 63
Excursion
Cosdon
Excursion
14.
IS-
1 6.
17-
From
From
Okehamp
Belstone
iton
.. .. 66
60
76
and Sticklepath
.. .. 81
8;
18.
From
Belstone
and Sticklepath . .
. . . . 89
Shorter Excursions from Okehampton, 34 to 40 92
,, ,, Belstone, 41, 42 95
,, Sticklepath, 43 to 46 96
,, Throwleigh, 47 99
Route 24. Okehampton to Chagford and Moreton 100
25. ,, Bovey Tracey 101
,, 26. ,, Ashburton 102
27. ,, Brent and Ivybridge 103
,, 28. ,, Corn wood and Plympton 104
,, 29. ,, Princetown and Two Bridges . . . . 104
,, 30. „ L,ydford and Tavistock 105
Routes to Cranmere from Okehampton, Belstone, Sticklepath, and
South Zeal 107
DARTMOOR GUIDE.
xi.
A. J. PARKER,
FOUNTAIN HOTEL,
OKEHAMPTON.
WINES 3 SPIRITS OF THE FINEST QUALITY.
Spacious Stabling. Posting. Headquarters "Ye Oke'ton Lodge," R.A.O.B., G.L.E.
every Monday 8.30 p.m. Loyal "Ockment" Lodge of Oddfellows every
fourth Tuesday. Telegrams: "Parker, Fountain."
MAPS.
Sketch Map of the Moor facing page
Surroundings of Cranmere ,, ,,
ONE INCH MAPS.
3 Tavistock District
4 „ „ ,
5
6
7
8:
I/ydf ord District
Extensions to Cut Hill
I/ydford and Okehampton Districts . .
Okehampton and Chagford Districts . .
i
28
34
42
50
78
The numbers of the Routes and Excursions as given in the first
edition of the Guide are retained throughout. T. .signifies Track ;
Ex. or S. Ex., Excursion or Shorter Excursion ; R., Route ; and C. R.,
Cranmere Route. The entire length of each Excursion is given ;
Route distances are given one way only.
OKEHAMPTON, HATHERLEIGH ft BOW, DEVON; and at BUDE, CORNWALL.
CONNOLE
HOUSE FURNISHERS,
Shipping and Immigration Agents
for the Australian Commonwealth
and New Zealand.
Telephone: BUDE 31; OKEHAMPTON 15.
xii. DARTMOOR GUIDE.
SIDMOUTH (Devon).
The
Fortfield Hotel.
Greatly Enlarged. New Wings.
Electric Light Throughout. Lifts to all Floors.
(~)N Eof the most comfortable Hotels on
^ the South Coast. Unequalled posi-
tion. Situated in its own charming
Grounds. Full South and facing sea;
having two full-sized Croquet Lawns.
Handsomely furnished by Maple & Co.
Complete with every luxury and con-
venience. Near to Brine Baths and
convenient to Golf Links. Sanitary
arrangements perfect. Large and com-
modious bedrooms. Handsome private
Suites of Apartments, either on ground
floor, first or second floors with Bath-
rooms and Lavatories. Corridors carefully
heated. Spacious Public Rooms.
Billiards. High-class Cuisine. Selected
Wines. Moderate and inclusive terms.
Telephone -r -rt i- • r»
NO. 39. 1 anfr on application to Proprietor.
GUIDE TO DARTMOOR.
IN FIVE PARTS.
Part I. PRINCETOWN, Two BRIDGES, HEXWORTHY, AND POST BRIDGB
DISTRICTS.
Deals with the whole of the central part of the Moor, and
contains notices of Crazy Well Pool, Siward's Cross, Childe's Tomb,
the Merivale Antiquities, Mis Tor, Wistman's Wood, Dartmeet, etc.
Excursions i to 6 ; 41 to 46. Shorter Exs. i to 14. Routes
i to 8. Cranmere Routes i, 2, 15, 16, 17.
Part II. TAVISTOCK, LYDFORD, OKEHAMPTON, AND STICKLEPATH
DISTRICTS.
Describes Northern Dartmoor, extending from Sampford
Spiney on the West to Throwleigh on the East : Notices Brent
Tor, Lydford Gorge, Hill Bridge, Tavy Cleave, Fur Tor, the
Island of Rocks, Yes Tor, the Belstone Range, Cosdon, etc.
Excursions 7 to 18. S. Exs. 15 to 47. Routes 9 to 30.
C.R. 3 to ii.
Part III. CHAGFORD, MORETON, LUSTLEIGH, AND BOVEY TRACEY
DISTRICTS.
A Description of Eastern Dartmoor : This part contains a
notice of Cranmere Pool, and among other places and objects
included in the Excursions are the Scorhill and Kes Tor Antiquities,
Teign Head, Fernworthy, Grim's Pound, Drewsteignton Dolmen,
Fingle Bridge, Lustleigh Cleave, Hey Tor, etc.
Excursions 19 to 25. S. Exs. 48 to 87. Routes 31 to 46.
C. R. 12, 13, 14.
xiv. DARTMOOR GUIDE.
Part IV. ASHBURTON, BRENT, IVYBRIDGE, AND CORNWOOD
DISTRICTS.
The whole of Southern Dartmoor, so rich in antiquities and
charming border scenery, is described in this part. Among other
places noticed are Rippon Tor, Widecombe-in-the-Moor, the
Buckland Woods, Holne Chase, Brent Moor, Shipley, ttie Valley
of the Erme, Stowford Cleave, Hawns and Dendles, etc.
Excursions 26 to 34. S. Ex,s. 88 to 121. Routes 47 to 66.
From the southern part of the moor the starting points of the
Cranmere Routes are Princetown, Two Bridges, and Post Bridge,
C.R. i, 2, 16, 17. These are given in Part I.
Part V. PI.YMPTON, SHAUGH, YELVERTON, AND DOUSLAND
DISTRICTS.
Describes Western Dartmoor from Cornwood to the Walkham :
Shaugh Bridge, the Dewer Stone, the Plym Valley, Meavy, Sheeps
Tor, and the Burrator Lake. This part also contains a brief
description of the old pack-horse tracks on the Moor, to which
reference is frequently made in the book, as well as a Dictionary
of Terms used in connection with the Forest and Commons.
Excursions 35 to 40. Routes 67 to 76. For Cranmere Routes
see Princetown, Two Bridges, and Post Bridge, C.R. i, 2, 1 6. 17, in
Parti.
Each Part contains directions for reaching Cranmere Pool from
the Districts described in it.
BELSTONE, DARTMOOR,
Mrs. ARSCOTT, "Ferndale."
Furnished and Board Apartments on the Moor, with extensive
views. 1100 feet above sea level. Fishing, Rough Shooting,
Golf. :: Hot and Cold Baths. :: Home Produce.
^«x TELEGRAMS: "ARSCOTT, BELSTONE." x^v.
DARTMOOR GUIDE. xv
BELSTONE.
Mi-s. PIKE, Moorland House,
Furnished and Board Apartments on the Moor. Nicely shaded,
with extensive views. 1 100 feet above sea level. Fishing,
Rough Shooting, Tennis, etc. :: :: Hot and Cold Baths.
Terms Moderate. Horses and Carriages on Hire.
Where reference is made to other of the Author's
books the titles are thus abbreviated.
' A Hundred Years on Dartmoor" .. ... .. 100 Years.
' Gems in a Granite Setting " . . . . . . Gems.
'The Ancient Stone Crosses of Dartmoor and Its
Borderland" .. .. .. .. .. Crosses.
' Amid Devonia's Alps " .. .. .. .. Dev. Alps.
' Tales of the Dartmoor Pixies " Pixies
"Tor's" Hotel, Belstone, Devon
Proprietor - J. Y. FRENCH.
Under New Management. Situated on Dartmoor, with unrivalled
Moorland Scenery, one of the healthiest parts of England. Hot and
Cold Water Baths. Sanitation Perfect. Trout Fishing. Motor
Garage and Good Stabling. Carriages of every description.
LUNCHEONS & TEAS. MODERATE TARIFF,
Telegraphic Address— " Tor's Hotel, Belstone." Stations— Okehampton and
Sampford Courtenay (L. & S.W.R.)
SKETCH MAP
PLYMOUTH
BOUND2XBIES OF DAPTMOOR ^
FOREltST *v COMMOMS
GUIDE TO DARTMOOR.
TAVISTOCK DISTRICT.
DISTANCES. BY ROAD : ASPIBURTON, via Two Bridges, 21 m.
BOVEY TRACEY, via T.B., 25.!- m. BRENT TOR, 3$ m. Do.
VILLAGE, 41 m. EUCKF AST LEIGH, via T.B., 22 m. CHAG-
FORD, via T.B., i84 m. Cornwood, via Whitchurch and Grenofen
Cross, Horrabridge, Walkhampton, Dousland and Cadaford Bridge
(9), I3f m. DARTMEET, via T.B., 13 m. DARTMOOR INN,
LYDFORD, via Heathfield, 8| m., via Black Down, ;J m. DOUS-
LAND, 54 m. EXETER, ma'Okehampton, 38 m. HEXWORTHY,
via T.B., 13^ m. HILL BRIDGE, via Peter Tavy, sj m. ; urn Mary
Tavy and Zoar Down, 7^ m. HOLNE, via T.B., 18 m. HORRA-
BRIDGE, via Whitchnrch, 34 m. Do. STATION, via Magpie, 4 m.
IVYBRIDGE, see Cornwood, add 3 m. LANE END, for Tavy
Cleave, 6f m. LYDFORD, via Heathfield and Manor Hotel, j\ m. ;
via Black Down and Skit, 8 m. ; via Black Down and Dartmoor Inn,
84- m. MARY TAVY, 3^ m. MERIVALE BRIDGE, 4$ m.
MORETON, via T.B., 20 m. OKEHAMPTON, 16 m. PETER
TAVY, 3 m. PLYMOUTH, 14 m. PLYMPTON, via Roborough,
George Hotel, and Plym Bridge, 14 m. POST BRIDGE, via T.B.,
1 1 4- m. POUND'S GATE, via T.B., i6j- m. PRINCETOWN, 7* m.
R UNDLE STONE, 6 m. 5.4 MPFORD SPINE Y, 3$ m . SHA UGH,
via Dousland and Cadaford Bridge, io4- m. SHEEPSTOR VILLAGE,
-2\ m. from Dousland round Yennadon. SOURTON, n m. SOUTH
BRENT, via Ivybridge, 2 if m. TAVY CLEAVE (see Lane End).
TWO BRIDGES, 8 m. WALREDDON (West Down Gate, for Double
Waters), 2^ m. WAPSWORTHY, via Peter Tavy, 5^ m. WARREN
HOUSE INN, via T.B., 13! m. WIDECOMBE, via T.B., 18 m.
YELVERTON, 5 m.
BY RAIL : EXETER (L.S.W.), 42 m. LYDFORD (L.S.W., 64- m.,
G.W., 7 m.) OKEHAMPTON (L.S.W.), i6£ m. PLYMOUTH
(L.S.W.), 204- m. (G.W.), i6fm. [Fares the same.] PRINCETOWN
(G.W.), 16 in. YELVERTON, (G.W.), 54- m.
Important Points and Landmarks.
Hill Bridge— Merivale Bridge— Mis Tor— Sandy Ford (Walkham)
— Warren's Cross. Places of Interest. Brent Tor — Black Down —
Cocks' Tor, Staple Tors and Roose Tor — Lydford (Lydford District)
—Peter Tavy Combe— Pu Tor — Sampford Spiney— The Tavy below
Horndon — Valley of the Walkham — Vixen Tor — Whitchurch Down —
White Tor. Prehistoric Antiquities. Langstone Moor : stone circle and
menhir, and hut circles at White Tor, or Whittor, and Wed Lake —
B2
2 TAVI8TOCK DISTRICT.
Merivale : rows, huts, and menhir. Mining, Remains. Walkham : blow-
ing houses near Merivale Bridge, and streaming remains above Mis Tor.
Tavistock is about two miles from Dartmoor, but is very near to
Whitchurch Down, which at one time formed a spur of the moor.
As one of the stannary towns it was connected with it during several
centuries, and there is early mention of lands in the parish possessing
venville rights. One of the town's benefactors, John D'Abernon,
held high offices in connection with Dartmoor in the fourteenth century.
The Fitz family, of Fitzford, were early possessors of land on Dart-
moor, and of these one of the members was the notorious Lady
Howard. The Abbey was founded in 961, by Ordgar, Earl of Devon,
and in it was afterwards preserved the important charter by which
King John disafforested the County of Devon, with the exception of
Dartmoor and Exmoor.
Three inscribed stones of early date are to be seen in the vicarage
garden. One was discovered in the town, and the others in the
neighbourhood of it.
Excursions from Tavistock.
Tracks in the vicinity, Nos. i, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 21, 22, 23.
[The area over which these excursions extend is bounded on the E. by
the Walkham, and on the N. by an imaginary line drawn from i m.
below the head of that stream to Hill Bridge, and thence to Lydford
Station. The Merivale Antiquities and Mis Tor are noticed in the
Princetown District, and Tavy Cleave in the Lydford District but
directions for reaching them are given here. Ex. 7, 9.]
Ex. 7. — Whitchurch Down, Pu Tor, Sampford Spiney, Ward Bridge,
Valley of the Walkham, Vixen Tor, The Windy Post, 12 m.
We leave the town by a path opposite to the entrance to the
G.W.R. Station, which will lead us to Whitchurch Down. When we
enter upon the down we pass upward with the enclosures L., and at a
distance of about 1 50 yards from the higher corner of these shall reach
what is known as the Square Seat. Here is a good view of the town
we have just left, and also an exceedingly fine one of the moor, extend-
ing from the range on which Great Links Tor is situated to the Dewer
Stone, and including among other prominent heights Hare Tor, above
Tavy Cleave, White Tor, Cocks' Tor Hill, the Staple Tors, and North
Hisworthy. (For the latter see Princetown District). We can also look
away to the S.W. corner of the moor, where Pen Beacon, overlooked by
Shell Top, rises above Cornwood (Ex. 36, R. 7). Northward is Brent
Tor (Ex. 9), and to the R. of it the wide sweep of Black Down.*
* A road now leads to Whitchurch Down. This was made by the
Duke of Bedford, and forms an excellent approach to what must be
regarded as not the least among the attractions of which Tavistock is
the happy possessor. The road leaves the main one leading to Whit-
church just beyond the G.W.R. Station, branching on the L., and is
carried across the path above named.
EXCURSION 7. WHITCHURCH DOWN. 3
[Prom the E. end of the town a road leads to Whitchurch Down
from Vigo Bridge. In ascending the hill a steep, narrow pack-horse
track branching R. may be followed, or the more circuitous way by the
road be chosen. In the latter case the visitor turns R. opposite to the
entrance to Mount Tavy, the point gained being the same. Just
where the road enters on the down there is a granite slab on the bank
I,. This is an old milestone. On its face, cut in deep letters, is the
inscription, " 14 miles to Plymouth," and on the edge of it, " T. i."
About a couple of hundred yards further on is the head of a cross, set
in its socket stone, also on the L. of the road. [Crosses, Chap. IX.]
A little beyond this is a small parish boundary stone, bearing the letter
W (Whitchurch) on one face, and the letter T (Tavistock) on the other.
The road runs on to Warren's Cross (see post) with a branch by way of
Middle Moor to the village of Whitchurch.]
Passing onward from the Square Seat we shortly cross the road
just noticed, and make our way over the middle of the down by the
golf links. On our R. is Middle Moor, and just beyond this we notice
the entrance to Holwell, the ancient seat of the Glanvilles. A little
further on we shall reach the cross mentioned in R. i, and which
stands on the line of the old Abbots' WTay (T. i). [Crosses, Chap.
IX.] It is placed within a small circular enclosure, the low bank of
which is much overgrown. From its appearance it is probable that
this cross is of earlier date than the Abbots' Way. On the edge of the
down to the R. are some ruined walls, which bear the name of
Monkeys' Castle, but which it is not unlikely is a corruption of Monks'
Castle.'
Just beyond this cross, that is, a short distance E. of it, the Monks'
path forked, one branch, the Abbots' Way, going straight on, and the
other, the path through Sampford to Mea'vy and Plympton, diverging
R. As we advance towards the E. end of the down we have on the R.
Warren's Cross, close to a plantation, where the Tavistock and Samp-
ford road crosses one coming up from Horrabridge.* The latter runs L.
to the small hamlet of Penny- come- Quick (Pen-v-cwm-cuic, the head of
the narrow combe, or valley), and on through Moor Shop (R. i) to
Peter Tavy (Ex. 8). This we cross a little S. of the thirteenth mile-
stone from Plymouth, and descend to Quarry Lane, which runs between
the fields to the common at Moortown, f m. distant.
Just before reaching the down a curious object may be observed
in the wall on the I/. It is a Blowing Stone, one of the kind formerly
used at the time of summoning the venville tenants, and others, whose
duty it was to assist in driving the moor. (See Drift, in Terms section).
* [£• m. S. of Warren's Cross is Plaster Down, over which the Horra-
bridge road runs for about ij m. The down adjoins the common on
which Sampford Tor and Pu Tor are situated. (See Yelvcrton
District).]
No stone cross is to be seen at Warren's Cross, though it is not
improbable that in the days of the monks one was erected there. But
we cannot determine this from the name, which simply means a cross-
road. The point was an important one, as it was there that the track
from Tavistock to Sampford Spiney was crossed by the one leading
from Peter Tavy and Mary Tavy to Buckland.
4 TAVISTOCK DISTRICT.
On one side it is concave, and the horn being blown against this was
supposed to give forth a louder sound. The stone has, of course, been
brought to its present situation from some lofty point.
Near by is Iddymead Cottage, formerly known as Rogues' Roost,
which title, if report be correct, was not inappropriate. It is said to
have been the haunt of a band of sheep-stealers, whose depredations
caused the farmers in the neighbourhood much uneasiness. No traces
of the animals stolen from the commons were ever discovered, but it
was whispered that they were driven to the Roost, and there
slaughtered and cut up, the skins being concealed in a cave. The
owner of the property told me some years ago that out of curiosity he
had opened the so-called cave, which he found to be merely a hollow
formed by some huge stones, but there were no signs of anything
having been buried there.
On the R. at the end of the lane is Langstone, but the name does
- not owe its origin to the former presence of a menhir, as some visitors
in their antiquarian zeal might perhaps be apt to imagine. The
property was formerly called Stone, and being occupied by a Mr. Lang,
was referred to as Lang's Stone. Instances of a similar nature are
found in many places round the moor. Moortown stands on the verge
of the common on the L. In Risdon's time it belonged to the
Moringes, " a family which anciently wrote themselves De la More."
There is a monument to this family in the church at Whitchurch.
Early in the nineteenth century it was in the possession of John Ridout.
whose name appears on an inscription on a paten which he presented
to Sampf ord Spiney Church in 1 8 1 1 . In 1 846 Moortown was the
property of Jonas Ridout.
Passing up the hill in a south-easterly direction we reach Pu Tor,
which, though not of great elevation, is yet a conspicuous object in
this locality. The rock piles do not rise to a great height above the
turf, but are nevertheless imposing. There are four principal groups,
each placed towards one of the cardinal points. On the N. pile are
several rock basins, the most perfect measuring 2ft. roins. by 2ft. 2ins. ;
it is loins, deep. This one is furnished with a lip. Of the others two
are in a fairly perfect state, but the remainder are much worn. On
the W. pile there is another basin. The view from Pu Tor is exceed-
ingly fine, much of the moor being revealed on one side, and a vast
extent of cultivated country on the other. Between the S. and W.
piles the distant Channel and Mount Edgcumbe are seen, and also
the confluence of the Tamar and the Tavy, with the Cornish hills
beyond. [Gems, Chap. XXI.]
Near the S. pile is a stone bearing the letters S.S.P. It is one
of several on this common similarly inscribed, and marking the bounds
of Sampford Spiney parish. The moorland part of this parish, which
is denned by these stones, runs up into the common land belonging to
Whitchurch, and for SOIEC little distance is but a mere strip. The
boundary lines then diverge, one running towards Vixen Tor (see post}
and the other nearly to the Windy Post (do.) They then converge,
and meeting form a figure resembling a lozenge in heraldry, or, as one
may be told in the neighbourhood, like the Ace of Diamonds, by which
name this part of the parish is sometimes referred to.
Leaving Pu Tor we descend the hill with Pu Tor Cottage on the
R., our course being S.E. At the lower corner of the enclosure we
3.TAV1STOCK DISTRICT.
STb
WAP&WORTHV
MOOR
"TOR
Mu-u-ggt
6 TAVISTOCK DISTRICT.
strike a moorland road, and turning R., then crossing another road,
and soon after, again turning R., shall reach the small settlement of
Sampford Spiney.
[The rambler may strike S. by W. from the tor to Sampford Tor,
a small pile rapidly disappearing under the hand of the quarryman.
Then continue the same course to the road from Tavistock, and turn
L. to the village.]
Sampford Spiney hardly deserves the name of a village, consisting,
as it does, only of a church, a school, an ancient manor house, now a
farm, and a few dwellings. These are grouped round a green, on
which is a fine old tree and an ancient cross [Crosses, Chap. VIII.]
It is a restful place, and although some recent erections have somewhat
marred its primitive aspect, it has by no means entirely lost its old-
world appearance. The church formerly belonged to Plympton
Priory (T. 69, Plympton District), the arms of which religious house
may be seen on the S. face of the tower. They are carved on a stone
at the side of the large window, two keys, crossed. Crocketted pin-
nacles rise from the angles of the tower, which is perpendicular, as also
is the nave. The chancel has been re-built, but retains its original
decorated style. In the time of Henry II. the manor was held by
Robert de Spinet, and continued in that family during several descents.
It was afterwards in the possession of the Drakes, Bidgoods, and Halls.
At present it belongs to Captain Hall-Parlby, of Manadon, near
Plymouth.
[Leaving this secluded little place by the road running S.E. from
the green, we make our way to Ward Bridge (Ex. i), | m. distant. To
do this it is only necessary that we keep to the L. The bridge is
delightfully placed in the depths of the Walkhain Valley, which is here
thickly wooded. It is modern, but replaces an old structure that was
swept away by a flood in July, 1890. Below the bridge, on the
K. bank of the river, is Woodtown, the delightful residence of
Mrs. W. F. Collier. On the L,. is Eggworthy, where is a shooting-box
belonging to Sir Henry Lopes.
Passing up the lane on the further side of the Walkham (the K.),
we shall soon reach the cross ways near Withill Farm mentioned in
Ex. i, and the directions there given will enable to rambler to make
his way up the valley to Men vale Bridge, and to visit the antiquities
near it. The return to Tavistock from Merivale has already been
given in R. i.]
From the green at Sampford Spiney we shall proceed to the
common, leaving the church R., and make our way across its edge,
with the Walkham Valley on the R., by the track already described
(T. 1 3 ) to Vixen Tor ; or we may proceed to that pile by way of the
path leading to Vixen Tor Farm. If we decide upon the latter we
shall enter the gate at Hecklake, which we see R. just after passing
the track branching off for Pu Tor Cottage. Close to the gate is one
of the parish boundary stones already referred to. Our road now lies
along the side of the hill, running parallel to the track (T. 13), but at
some distance below it. Ere we have proceeded far we shall reach a
small pile of rocks, L. of the way, the scene of an adventure of one
Roody of Heckwood. A short distance further on we shall pass a
EXCURSION 7. VIXEN TOR. 7
large worked granite stone, by the roadside, R., which was originally
intended for the Plymouth Breakwater, but was rejected on account
of a flaw, and soon after shall come in sight of Vixen Tor Farm, on
the side of the hill on which rises the tor that gives name to it. As it is
situated within the farm enclosures, it will be better that we pass
up by the house and obtain permission to visit it.
(The scenery in this valley is described in Gems, Chap. XXI.)
Vixen Tor rises to a considerable height above the turf, and is a
conspicuous object from many parts of the commons surrounding it.
On the summit are three rock basins, one being 14013. deep, another
Staple
Tors.
FROM WINDY POST, LOOKING N.K.
gins., and the third Sins. The resemblance to the Egyptian Sphinx
borne by this tor hap often been noticed. This is particularly observ-
able from the Merivale and Tavistock road. This road runs about
\ m. N. of the tor, the point where the rambler will strike it in going
direct to it being less than 4 m. from Merivale Bridge. Directions for
reaching the antiquities from the gate of Long Ash Farm, which is on
the side of the hill above the E. end of the bridge, are given in Ex. i .
[Mis Tor is i£ m. N.E. by N. of Merivale Bridge, and can readily
be reached. It is in full view. The tor is noticed in Ex. 6.]
For the routes from Merivale to Tavistock see R. i. If the path
FROM BARN HIU., £ M. NORTH OF WINDY POST
8 TAVISTOCK DISTRICT.
by Moortown and Whitchurch Down be chosen the rambler will pass
the Windy Post soon after crossing the Beckamoor Combe Water.
This cross, which is about 7 feet in height, stands on a plain piece of
ground extending from Barn Hill to Feather Tor, and is close to the
latter, which is a pile of small size. Its type proclaims it to be of the
sixteenth century, and as it stands beside a path which existed long
before that time (T. i), it is probable that it replaced an older cross.
[Crosses, Chap. IX.]
Ex. 8. — Pork Hill, Cocks' Tor, The Staple Tors, Roose Tor, Lang-
stone Moor Antiquities, White Tor, Smeardon Down, Peter Tavy Combe,
13^ m. WITH EXTENSIONS TO Walkham Head, Cudlipp Town, and
Wapsworthy, and RETURN ROUTES BY Hill Bridge, Horndon, and
Mary Tavy.
For the first three miles our way will take us over the Princetown
road. We leave the town by way of Vigo Bridge, and ascending the
hill with the grounds of Mount Tavy L., and avoiding all turnings,
shall, at the distance of nearly two miles from Tavistock, reach Moor
Shop (R. i). Here we cross the Horrabridge and Harford Bridge road,
and passing up Pork Hill, shall soon find ourselves on the common.
We strike 1,. over the turf to Cocks' Tor Hill, which rises close at hand,
cr jssing on the way the track described in the section dealing with the
old moor paths (T. 15). At the southern end of this hill, which runs
about N. and S. for the distance of \ m., are a number of rock piles,
among which may be seen a small shelter of the kind formerly erected
by herdsmen and shepherds on the tors. Below these piles a reave
runs E. and W. to the head of Beckamoor Combe (Ex. 7), and may
also be seen again on the side of the hill near Roose Tor. Between it
and the rock piles is a single hut circle, and other examples of these
occur further W. near the track. Ascending the hill at this point we
proceed northward to Cocks' Tor, of which the rocks just noticed may
be regarded as an outlying portion. We shall find it to be of rather
large size, though the blocks composing it are not particularly so. The
higher pile is surrounded by a low vallum of stones, but for what
purpose it was designed is not very clear, unless it may have been
intended to build a cairn round the rocks, as in the case of Shell Top
(Ex. 34) and Linch Tor (Ex. 10). On the N.E. side is another small
shelter.
The view from this commanding border height, which attains an
elevation of 1,452 feet, is very fine. Northward, beyond White Tor,
is seen the ridge above the Rattle Brook, from which rise the rocks of
Hare Tor and Great Links Tor ; across the Beckamoor Dip eastward
are the Staple Tors and Roose Tor, and further away the great crown
of Mis Tor. To the south is the common above Sampford Spiney, with
Vixen Tor and Pu Tor. From this the cultivated land stretches away
to the groves of Mount Edgcumbe, and thence, ranging westward, the
eye looks upon a diversified tract of country, backed by the Cornish
hills. In the valley at our feet, as it were, is the town of Tavistock.
Cocks' Tor Hill is composed of trap rock, the junction of this with
EXCURSION 8. COCKS' TOR HILL. STAPLE TOR. 9
the granite being in the valley on the E. Its summit is fairly level,
and free from heather, and except near the tor the surface is covered
with smooth turf. At its northern end are two cairns, and the remains
of a stone row, and having examined these we shall turn E. by S. and
cross the shallow valley to Great Staple Tor, which is rather less than
i m. distant. (See post). On our L. as we proceed is a group of hut
circles, close to which runs the path from Merivale to Peter Tavy
(T. 14), and which we shall strike at its paved part as we near the tor.
Here, too, we cross the boundary line separating the common lands of
Peter Tavy from, those of Whitchurch, which line runs up from head of
Beckamoor Combe towards Roose Tor. This was once the scene of a
quarrel which terminated in the manner usually associated in our
minds with the slight misunderstandings that occasionally arise at
Donnybrook Fair. The men of one of the parishes named were view-
ing their bounds, the operation being watched by the men of the other,
when a dispute arose about a bondmark. Heated arguments followed,
but failed to be convincing, and finally recourse was had to another
means of settling the matter. But that also failed, though it cannot
be said that it was barren of results. Those who returned home with
broken heads were certainly not inclined to think so.
Great Staple Tor is one of four tors that crown the ridge running
parallel to the Walkham, and high above its western bank. South-
ward of it are Mid Staple Tor and Little Staple Tor ; northward is
Roose Tor. The rocks of Great Staple Tor assume very fantastic
shapes, and in some instances are poised in such a manner as to induce
the beholder to believe that a very slight effort would suffice to over-
throw them. It is a striking tor from whichever side it is beheld, but
becomes really impressive when closely approached. It consists of
several piles of rocks, with a large area clothed with short turf in the
centre, and an immense number of scattered rocks, that speak only
too plainly of the havoc the forces of Nature have wrought on this
stupendous granite citadel. There are rock basins on the tor, and also
an interesting object which has been regarded as a tolmen. It will be
iound on the westernmost pile, and consists of an overhanging rock, at
some distance above the ground, the end of which is supported on a
lump of granite of a roughly globular form, which rests upon the
extreme edge of another rock, and is kept in position by the first.
The object is not, however, a true tolmen, such being, as the name
implies, a holed stone, but we shall, nevertheless, be quite willing to
believe that it was employed in the mysterious Druidical rites — when
it is shown to our satisfaction that such rites were ever practiced on the
moor. In the meantime all we can say about it is that the stones are
certainly very curiously poised, and that it is Nature's handiwork
alone. It is rather unfair on the part of a certain writer to make
Mrs. Bray attempt to scale the chief pile of Great Staple Tor, and
confess that she was compelled to stop at the third block from the top,
when, as a matter of fact, she has nowhere said that she had even
visited the tor.
About ^ m. due N. of Staple Tor is Roose Tor, the dip between
them being very slight. As we make our way thither over plain,
turfy ground, we have a fine view of the surrounding moor, in which
Mis Tor, across the valley of the Walkham, is a conspicuous feature,
In Roose Tor we have another very striking group of rocks. On its
io TAVISTOCK DISTRICT.
northern side the granite forms a solid buttress of considerable height ;
its other parts are formed of huge blocks. There are a number of
basins on the tor, and in one example, which was furnished with a lip,
the portion of the rock in which the latter was formed is broken off,
and lies in a crevice below it. Around the tor, at some little distance
from it, are a number of upright stones, enclosing it in a circle, as it
were. These stones are about 4 feet in height, and are squarely cut,
and inscribed with the letter B, as also are several similar stones which
the rambler may have observed near the road as he entered on the
common. They mark the boundary of lands belonging to the Duke
of Bedford. Close to one of these bondstones on the northern side of
the tor is a rock having a flat surface level with the ground, on which
is engraved a small circle bisected by a straight line. Roose Tor is
not wanting in historical interest. The common immediately around
it probably formed one of the old predas to which its name was
attached. I cannot find it mentioned at a very early date, but it is
referred to in 1665 as the pasture of Rulestorre.* Probably this form
of the name is correct, though it is usually pronounced as I have given
it. On the recent Ordnance Map it appears as Rolls Tor.
Northward of Roose Tor is Langstone Moor, and over this we shall
now make our way to the stone circle before referred to (Frincetoivn
District). This object we may see from the tor in a N.E. direction..
The stones composing it lay prone upon the turf until the year 1894,
when they were set up. Being a restoration this monument loses
something of its interest, but it is at the same time a matter for con
gratulation that it was not allowed to remain in a ruined condition.
There are 16 stones in the circle, the diameter of which is about 56
feet. Three other stones, now also set up, are supposed to have
belonged to another circle standing outside the existing one, so that
the monument consisted of two concentric circles, if such was really
the case. Of this, however, I am by no means convinced. Between
this circle and the river are a number of ruined huts, some of them.
being within a pound of the ordinary character. Charcoal and flint
have been found in these.
[From this point we may extend our ramble to the Lich Path
(T. 1 8), where it crosses the Walkham at Sandy Ford (Ex. 6). Pro-
ceeding N.E. for nearly | m. we shall reach the head of Deadlake Well,
where the track from Princetown via Blackabrook Head (T. 12) passes.
The combe down which the little Deadlake runs is a favourite spot with
the whortleberry gatherer. The water of the tiny stream is said to
possess magic properties. Whichever member of a party approaching
it drinks of it first will fincl a lover before the year closes. From this
point we follow the forest boundary line, which runs N.N.E. over
Cocks' Hill to White Barrow, a distance of about \ m. The Lich
Path (T. 1 8) is quite close to this barrow, and leads R., to Sandy Ford,
on the Walkham. Before it reaches that stream the road forks^
the R. branch being the ancient way and the L. one the turf track
(T. 1 6) to Walkham Head. In the angle the remains of some mine
buildings will be noticed. From White Barrow the Lich Path ran
* In connection with it the pastures of Crowtorre and Claytorre
are also named. The latter is a small tract near the Walkham below-
Sandy Ford, but no tor exists there. (See Post).
EXCURSION 8. LANGSTONE MOOR. WEDLAKE. n
towards Bagga Tor, the direction being about N.W., but for some
distance between these two points it is not clearly defined, as already
observed (see T. 18). But if the rambler follows the course indicated,
making his way towards the moor gate, with the enclosure of Longbetor
L., and those of Bagga Tor Farm R., he will see the old path again
near the tor. From this moor gate the road will lead him to Waps-
worthy and Hill Bridge (Ex. 10).
But at White Barrow the rambler is also on the Walkham Head
track from Peter Tavy (T. 16), and by this, the general direction being
W.S.W., he may make his way back to the menhir on the western side
of Langstone Moor, the distance being i£ m.]
From Langstone Moor Circle our way will lead us to the menhir,
under White Tor (R. 2), to which, however, we must not proceed
direct, the ground about the springs of the Peter Tavy Brook, W.N.W.,
being rather boggy, as already mentioned (R. 2). Our course will be
N.W. until, having passed the source of the stream, we can bear L. ta
the menhir which we shall plainly see. This fine monolith was re-
erected at the same time as the circle. It stands beside the Walkham
Head peat track (T. 16), and, it may be noticed, is in a direct line
between Great Links Tor (Ex. 12) and Peak Hill, on Walkhampton
Common (Ex. 39). From this menhir a single stone row runs to a
small pond about 130 yards distant, and a little westward is another
row, also single, and not quite so long. The latter has much the
appearance of an old reave. There are some other remains near, but
they are not in a particularly good state of preservation.
As we mount the slope towards White Tor (1,529 feet), which is
quite near to these remains, we shall notice the vallum surrounding
the pile, and which renders it one of the most curious tors on the moor.
Several of the rock masses are incorporated in this rude wall, which,
on the E. side, is in a better state of preservation than elsewhere.
Remains of hut foundations occur within it, and a number of flint
chips have been found among these, and around the tor. This circum-
vallation differs from the ordinary hut pounds, and seems to have been,
constructed for defensive purposes.
Descending the side of White Tor, in a direction S. by W., we
cross the grassy path leading to Walkham Head, and when about J m.
from the tor, and near to the Peter Tavy Brook and the enclosures of
Wedlake Farm, shall come upon a group of hut circles. These lie
along the banks of a tiny rivulet running into the brook named, and
the remains of walls seem to show that they were once in enclosures ;.
indeed, there is one of these in a fairly perfect state, containing two
huts. This settlement was explored in 1904, and charcoal, pottery,
flint flakes, and cooking- stones were found. Eastward is a reave
running up to White Tor.
[South-west of Wedlake Farm, and close to the wall, is a large hut
settlement, but this is best visited from Cocks' Tor Hill or Roose Tor
(see ante). The Peter Tavy Brook is sometimes known as Wed Lake.]
Retracing our steps northward to the peat track (T. 16), we turn
L., shortly afterwards reaching a mound close beside it. This is
known as Stephens' Grave, and marks the site where a suicide was
buried with the barbarous rites once customary. George Stephens
was a youth of Peter Tavy, and was driven to take his life by the
unfaithfulness of the girl to whom he was betrothed. It is said that
12 T A VI STOCK DISTRICT.
at the moment he was laid here some linen that was hanging out to
bleach at Higher Godsworthy was caught up into the air and never
more seen. As we proceed we shall notice two rocks on the common
L. ; these are known at Setters, and are composed of trap of a brownish
•colour. It is in layers, and there are many loose pieces lying on and
around the masses. Less than V m. from Stephens' Grave we enter
"Twyste Lane (T. 16), and passing through it shall find ourselves close
to Boulter's Tor on Smeardon, or Smearn, Down.
From this point we may make our way to Peter Tavy direct,
either by proceeding over the down westward, or descending to Peter
Tavy Combe, and turning down the valley, R ; or we may lengthen
our walk by going round by Cudlipp Town. If we choose the former
we shall pass along the rocky summit of the ridge, an extensive pano-
rama of field and woodland, moor and distant hill, being spread before
us. Close to the highest crag is a small poundlike enclosure, and some
faint vestiges of reaves. At the W. of the ridge (on the N. side of
which is the enclosure known as Black Shells) we descend to a gate
close to an old sandpit, from which a short lane leads to the road near
the church. On reaching this we turn L. to the village.
Peter Tavy Combe is situated to the S. of Smeardon Down. We
cross the road below Boulter's Tor, and in a corner of the common
come upon a footpath running through some enclosures. Turning R.
we follow it for a short distance, when we shall find ourselves on the N.
side of the combe, just above Little Combe Tor. Great Combe Tor
rises on the other side of this little valley, and beyond it is Cocks' Tor
Hill. The tor seen between the two is locally known as Sharp Tor.
Peter Tavy Combe is a charming spot, to which clings more than one
story of the pixies. The Peter Tavy Brook runs through it, and is
•crossed near the lower end of the combe by a clam. Here the path
between the village and Merivale (T. 14) crosses the stream, and is
seen ascending the hill towards Great Combe Tor. It there passes
through some enclosures and reaches the common just above. Near
the clam a path runs up by South Ditch to Smeardon Down, but we
follow one that takes us down the valley along the bank of a mill
stream, which will lead us past Peter Tavy Mill, a very picturesque
building, to the village. [Gems, Chap. XXII.]
Should we decide to go round by Cudlipp Town from Boulter's Tor,
we turn N.E., and in the corner of the common shall find a narrow
path, which will lead us to Broad Moor, with Twyste, one of the ancient
vills, on our R. We descend the hill, with the enclosures on our
L., and the farm of Broadmoor a short distance R. (T. 17). At the
point where we enter on the lane is a small clapper. As we proceed we
shall notice the old manor pound on the R., shortly after passing which
we reach the road from Wapsworthy (R.) to Peter Tavy village (L.)
The manor of Cudlipp Town, which is also an ancient vill, was, previous
to the Reform Bill of 1832, in the parish of Tavistock, but was then
transferred to Peter Tavy. Owing to this arrangement the new
franchise was not extended to the tenants of the manor, and even the
owner, notwithstanding that the matter formed the subject of Parlia-
mentary debate, knew nothing of what was going on. In Domesday
Cudlipp Town appears as Culitone, and in a forester's account rendered
in 1 502 as Chodlype, the fine, or rent, of the vill being set down as $d.
Cudlipp occurs as a family name in the neighbourhood. The manor
EXCURSION 8. EXTENSION FROM PETER TAVY. 13
house, now rebuilt, is situated on the W. side of the road. The distance
from Cudlipp Town to Peter Tavy village is i m. The latter is a quiet
little place, with a church embosomed in trees, a chapel, a school, and
a small inn. A cross formerly stood near the churchyard gate, but has
now disappeared. [Crosses, Chap. XI.] The Peter Tavy Brook runs
through the village and falls into the Tavy just below.
For Walkham Head direct see Track 16.
Tavistock is about 3 m. from Peter Tavy. The way lies along the
road S., and then R. to Harford Bridge, where the Tavy is crossed.
Soon after this the highway is reached exactly 2 m. from Tavistock,
for which turn L.
[EXTENSION FROM Peter Tavy to Wapsworthy, Hill Bridge, and
Horndon.
Passing up the road N., with the church on the L., we make our
way through Cudlipp Town (i m.) A short distance beyond this is
a turning L. This leads down to Horndon Bridge, the hamlet from
which the structure takes its name being high above the W. bank of
the Tavy (see post). Rather over \ m. further on is another turning L.
This is Church Lane (R. 2), and is the approach to Hill Bridge. Waps-
worthy, which is noticed in Ex. 10, is reached by continuing straight
on, and is about £ m. distant. Should the visitor extend his walk to
that place he may reach Hill Bridge by a path across some fields,
instead of retracing his steps to the point he has now reached. To do
this he will cross Wapsworthy Bridge and enter at the first gate on the
L., and descend to the Tavy with the WTapsworthy Brook also on that
hand. Hill Bridge, which is situated in the midst of picturesque
surroundings, though of comparatively modern erection, yet exhibits a
primitive appearance. There are three openings, the centre one only
being arched ; the others are formed of slabs of granite laid from buttress
to pier. The parapets are very low. WThen Miss Rachel Evans wrote,
in 1846, there was no arch, and the bridge consisted of four openings.
But even that she supposes to have taken the place of an older one.*
(Ex. 10). Crossing the bridge we shall pass up the lane for a short
distance and enter a gate, inside which is a schoolhouse, L., just where
the road bends R. Making our way upward through a field, with Chilly
Wood across the brook I,., we reach Lower Town, and passing through
the farm yard, enter upon a very narrow lane, and keeping L. shall soon
find ourselves on Zoar Down. This piece of common is plentifully
strewn with rocks, said to have been placed there by the pixies. Bear-
ing L. near Higher and Lower Creason Farms, we speedily arrive at the
hamlet of Zoaf, consisting of a few cottages by the side of the road
running from Mary Tavy to Lane End (Ex. 9). Here we see the higher
part of the down, and may observe a large mass of rock near the well
of an enclosure. This is known as the Master Rock, and here Billy
Bray, the celebrated Cornish preacher, was wont to hold open air
services during his visit to this neighbourhood. Turning L. by the
hamlet we follow the road across Black Lion Down, where is a small
chapel, to Horndon. Here a road runs down L. to Horndon Bridge,
before alluded to, skirting a small down known as Common Wood,
But our way lies straight on past the New Inn, i m. beyond which we
*Home Scenes ; or, Tavistock and its Vicinity. By Rachel Evans.
T4 TAVI8TOCK DISTRICT.
shall reach the village of Mary Tavy. Turning L. we pass the school,
and presently arrive at the church. Immediately within the gate of
the churchyard is an ancient cross. Continuing our way, and keeping
L., we arrive at Mary Tavy Clam, in the midst of what was once very
fine scenery, but which of late years has been sadly marred by the
starting of a mine. Between this clam and Horndon Bridge are some
fine crags. One of these we may see as we look up the stream. This
is High Tor, the others being Fox Tor and Brimhill Tor. Further up,
above the bridge named, is another range of crags, the principal pile
being known as Renter Tor. Crossing the Tavy we follow the bridle
path, with the beautiful Longtimber Tor on the R. This stands near
the brink of the river, and consists of a square mass of rock rising to a
considerable height. It is draped with creeping plants, and bears no
slight resemblance to the keep of a ruined castle. Here we pass through
a gate into a narrow lane, which will lead us to Peter Tavy village.]
Among early references to Peter Tavy is one on the Court Rolls
of the Manor of Lydford, respecting a suit between Roger atte Torre
and Reginald Cole, in the fourteenth of Henry IV. The matter in
dispute was a trespass in a close in the parish. The venville rent in
the time of Henry VII. was the same as Cudlipp Town, 5d., and in the
«ntry in the Forester's Account recording this the place figures as
Peturspavy. In the ninth of James I., 1611, Roger Mannaford, of
Petertavy, together with several others, among whom was Gregory
Newman, the vicar of Walkhampton, was proceeded against by
William Hunt, the rector of Lydford, for tithes of the agistment of
sheep on Dartmoor and the Commons of Devon, the latter being the
"broad belt of moorland that surrounds the Forest. (See Terms Section,
Part V.) The defendants denied their liability. Over half a century
later Andrew Gove, the rector of Peter Tavy, was in dispute with some
Tavistock men, the former making a claim somewhat similar to that
which had been put forward by the rector of Lydford. Gove brought
a suit against the persons referred to for tithes of the pastures of Crow
Tor, Clay Tor, and Rules, or Roose, Tor, and they in turn filed a bill
praying for a prohibition of the suit. They affirmed that they paid to
the King certain rents, and performed certain duties and services, and
were in return entitled to privileges in the Forest of Dartmoor, which, as
they say, lies within the parish of Lydford. " But," they state,
" Andrew Gove, of Petertavy, clerk, out of a greedy aim and desire
to wrest and distort from your orators tithes, asserts that a part of the
Forest, &c., called Crowtorre, Claytorre, and Rulestorre are within the
parish of Petertavy, and that he ought to have the tithe of the cattle
and pasture there." No answer has been found to these suits, and it
is probable the claims for tithe were dropped. As certain defendants
in a case of the date 1699 maintained, " No Forest man, venville man,
or countryman ever paid tithes, which are compounded for at £3 a
year." This tithe of the herbage of Dartmoor was granted by Henry
III. " to God and the Church of St. Petroc at Lydford, and the chaplain
ministering in the same Church, whosoever for the time being shall be
chaplain there, for his maintenance."
16 TAVISTOCK DISTRICT.
Ex. 9.— Black Down, Snap, Black Hill, Gibbet Hill, Iron Gate,
1 3^ m. WITH BRANCH TO Lane End, AND EXTENSION TO Brent Tor.
[Black Down may be reached by G.W.R. to Mary Tavy, and by
S.W.R. to Brent Tor. In the former case the rambler will pass up the
road to the post office (see post), and in the latter he will find himself
on the down when he gets outside the station. To reach the Ashburys
(see post) he will then pass up the hill for a short distance and take
the green track L. Keep straight on when it is crossed by another,
and passing the enclosures of Higher Spring R. follow the path where
it bends L-, and which leads direct to the road that comes up from
Black Down village.]
Rather over 4 m. from Tavistock the Okehampton and Exeter
highway enters upon a part of Dartmoor known as Black Down, and to
this we shall now make our way. Shortly after leaving the town we
pass the Kelly College, L. of the road, and £ m. beyond it cross the
Walla Brook, a tributary of the Tavy. This comes down through the
valley near the head of which Kilworthy is situated, passing, not long
before we meet it, Indiscombe, the Ina's Combe of William Browne.
This pastoral poet, who has been not inaptly called the bard of the
Tavy, was born in Tavistock about the year 1590. Many of his
descriptions of places are remarkable for their fidelity and beauty.
Below Indiscombe is Two Bridges.*
Opposite to the second milestone at the foot of Wringworthy Hill,
a road turns R. to Peter Tavy (Ex. 8), crossing the Tavy close by at
Harford Bridge. But our way lies up the long ascent, and across
Burn Plain to Lane Head (3^ m. from Tavistock), where a road turns
R. down the hill to Mary Tavy village.
[This road also runs on through Horndon to Lane End, and is
the direct way to Tavy Cleave. The visitor to the latter will turn L.
at the bottom of the hill, and immediately after passing the school,
will turn into the Horndon road R. That hamlet will be reached in
about i m. The rambler will leave it R. and pass over Black Lion
Down to Zoar. (Thus far the route has been given the reverse way
in Ex. 8). A road runs straight over Zoar Down (Ex. 8), and this he
will follow. That part of it leading from the down is known as Buddla
Lane, and at the end of this another lane runs at right angles to it ;
L. to Yard Gate (see post, and T. 18) ; R. to Hill Bridge (Ex. 8) in
* " Low in the valley some small herds of deere.
For head and footmanship withouten peer
Fed undisturbed ; the swains that thereby thrived,
By the tradition from their sires derived,
Call'd it sweet Ina's Coombe."
— Britannia's Pastorals-
EXCURSION 9. BLACK DOWN. 17
one direction, and to Lane End in the other. The rambler turns R.
but bears I/, at the first fork, which is just below. This will lead him
by a farm called Will, shortly after which he will reach WiUsworthy
Bridge, a clapper, but furnished with parapets (Ex.. 10). Close to the
bridge is an interesting old manor pound, long disused. A little be-
yond this an ancient chapel formerly stood, R. of the road (100 Years,
Chap. IV.), and further on again a road turns R. to Willsworthy Farm,
and the ford on the Tavy (Ex. 10). About £ m. beyond this the
rambler will arrive at the moor gate at Lane End, directions for reaching
Tavy Cleave from which point are given in Ex. 1 1 .]
Passing onward we soon reach the post-office, where a road
turns L. to Brent Tor. On the R. is Wheal Friendship, and before
us is the village of Black Down, and through this we make our way
up the hill to the common from which it takes its name. On nearing
this we pass the Ashburys, as the enclosures on the R. are called, and
which belong to the farm of Holditch. This is now the property of
Okehampton feoffees, and probably gave name to a family once
resident in that town, one of which, Walter Holditch, is mentioned as
a burgess in the fourth of Henry VIII. A similar name occurs in the
parish of Thorncombe, its early form, according to Risdon, being
Oldich, and which he supposes to have been derived from an ancient
enclosure.
qp~
[At the point where we enter on the common a moorland road
branches R., and descending to the Cholwell Brook, crosses it in the
midst of the deserted workings of Wheal Betsy, at one time, like Wheal
Friendship, a mine of much importance. Near the bridge over the
little stream is a gate, where a path runs up through Maunder's Brake
to Kingsett Down, which is seen just across the valley. A plantation,
known as Allaclauns, abuts on the down, and to the L. of this a path,
skirting the latter, leads to Zoar (Ex. 8), and to the R. of it another,
entered at a gate, runs across fields to Horndon (Ex. 8). By this road
and path the rambler may reach Horndon Down Bridge, hereafter
noticed. On reaching Kingsett Down he will strike I/., following a
narrow footpath to the corner of Allaclauns Plantation, and thence
over the common N. by E., to the bridge.]
Our way lies along the high road, with Gibbet Hill, noticed further
on, on the L., and the Wheal Betsy workings in the valley R. Soon
four posts will be seen by the roadside, and a few score yards beyond
these a path runs up over the shoulder of the hill L. This is the Lydf ord
Path (T. 23), described in the section dealing with the old tracks, and
forms the most direct way from this part of the down to Lydford
Station. A short distance beyond this there is a long row of stone
posts by the roadside, known locally at Annie Pinkham's Men, and
here on the bank L., and opposite to the mine house, is the fifth mile-
stone from Tavistock. It also shows Okehampton to be 10 miles
distant, and Truro, in the other direction, 56 m. $ m. further on an
old mine leat runs under the road at Barrett's Bridge. This we do not
cross, but turn R. and follow the path that runs on the edge of the
water course, with Cholwell Farm in the valley R. £ m. on we cross
a shallow gully known in the locality as Goosey Creep, beyond which
c2
is TAVISTOCK DISTRICT.
a path branches R. from the watercourse. This we follow, and shall
be led to a green track that comes in L. from the high road, and runs
on to Zoar Down (T. 24), over a piece of ground usually referred to as
Breast-the-Water. At the junction a number of distant tors, among
them the piles above Tavy Cleave, are in sight. Close at hand is the
clapper known as Horndon Down Bridge. This spans a leat by which
water is brought in from the river at Tavy Cleave to the mines. It
is placed at the head of a gully which extends downward to the valley
in which the Cholwell Brook rises. It consists of three stones laid side
by side, the road being sufficiently wide for a cart. The bed of
the leat under the bridge is paved. N.E. by E. is Tavy Cleave, at the
head of which a small part of Watern Oke is revealed. This, and
Limsboro, and Great Mis Tor, are the only portions of the forest that
can be seen, although so much of the moor is visible.
Following the wide leat in an easterly direction we shall presently
reach the wall of an enclosure R., and shall notice a bondstone on the
slope I/. This is one of a row marking the boundary line between the
common lands of Mary Tavy and Peter Tavy. A few score yards
further one we cross the leat at One Stone Bridge, and make our way a
short distance down the hill known as Snap (Ex. 10), where we have as
fine a picture as can be found in any part of the moorland borders. To
the L. is White Hill (Ex. 1 1 ), over the crest of which is seen Bra Tor
(Ex. ii) with its cross. Great Links Tor (Ex. 12) stands up boldly
against the sky, with the farm of Redford (Ex. 1 1 ) — locally Ruddi-
ver — under it R., but much nearer to us. Then on the skyline is seen
Sharp Tor (Ex. 11 ) with the conical Hare Tor (Ex. n) to the R. of it.
To the R. of that Ger Tor and the Tavy Cleave Tors (Ex. n). The
fine hill to the R. of the cleave is Standon ; at its foot is the farm of
the same name. R. of this farm is Bagga Tor, where also is a farm
called after the eminence, and beyond it the range on which is Linch
Tor (Ex. 10) near the head waters of the Walkham, which rises E.N.E.
of it. Here we look down upon the farms formed by the ancient
settlers who forced their way into this valley, and among others that
may be seen are Nat Tor, Lane End, Willsworthy, Brouzen Tor, Long-
betor, Will, Hill Town, and the farms at Wapsworthy. If we proceed
a few yards further in a northerly direction we look down upon Yellow-
mead Farm.
In the corner of the down just below us R. is a gateway, where
a track passes across an enclosure to Yard Gate. This is the track
already described as running from Hill Bridge to Lydford (T. 18, 25).
One of the granite posts of Yard Gate bears some ancient markings,
and from a supposed resemblance of the figures to star), it is some-
times called by the country people Seven Star Gate (Ex. 10).
Retracing our steps we cross the leat and make our way up the
slope to the bondstone, and follow the line on which it is placed, our
direction being N.N.W. Shortly we shall reach Down Pool and Tin
Pits, and passing these shall be led to the Dartmoor Path (T. 21),
where it runs over Black Hill. On the further side of this is the object
known as the Ring o' Bells. It has the appearance of a small pound,
the encircling bank being formed of turf and stone. It may perhaps
mark the site of a cairn from which the stones have been removed.
There are a number of such on this down. Regaining the track we
turn towards the W S.W., and follow it to the highway, where we
EXCURSION 9. GIBBET HILL.
shall leave it, and proceeding a short distance along the road I,., shall
in turn leave that and strike across the common to Gibbet Hill, which
is Jin full view before us.
Sourton
Tors.
Noddon. Anns Bra Doe
N.E. byN Tor. Tor. Tor.
FROM GIBBET HIM,.
From this fine eminence we see nearly the whole of Black
Down. This down is mostly in Mary Tavy, a parish which does
not lie in venville. Its extreme length from the Burn stream in
Smallacombe Bottom, on the S., to the enclosures of Bear Walls,
under White Hill, on the N., is about 3^ m., and its width
about ij m., though in one part it is £ m. more than that. Gibbet
Hare Tor.
Black Bidge.
Fur Tor.
Ger Tor. Tavy Cleave.
FROM GIBBET HII,!,.
attains an elevation of 1159 feet, and on its summit is a quarry in
which is a pool of water. The hill obtains its name from the hideous
object said once to have been erected here. The road over the down,
which was the direct route from New Bridge on the Tamar to Exeter,
had the evil reputation of being infested with highwaymen, and this
hill being in view from it, and, indeed, from the surrounding country,
was deemed a fitting place on which to expose the bodies of malefactors
who had suffered at the hands of the law. There are many traditions
and stories concerning the spot [100 Years, Chap. II.], and there are
20 TAVI8TOCK DISTRICT.
those now living in the parish whose fathers remembered when a tall
post was fixed on the summit of the hill.
FROM GIBBET HIU,.
Remains of mining operations occur on the side of the hill. It
was to these workings that the water was brought in the leat we
have noticed at Barrett's Bridge. After being used it was suffered
to run into a deep channel known as the Gurgy (gurges, a whirlpool),
and was by means of this carried to the CholweU Brook, and so returned
to the Tavy. It now furnishes power to Wheal Jewel. The old track
over the down, the forerunner of the present road, seems to have been
utilized by the miners, since part of the Gurgy is formed upon it. This
track we have alreadv noticed (T. 26).
North
White Mis Hisworthy
Cocks Hill. Tor. Tor. Tor.
FROM GIBBET HII,!,.
The chief interest of Gibbet Hill is the wonderful picture seen from
its summit. Eastward is a wide view of the moor from the Sourton
Tors N. to Dewer Stone Hill S., one part of which, that extending from
Sourton to Hare Tor, is the finest range in the Dartmoor country.
Some of the grandest tors of the moor are here visible, including Fur
Tor, Great Mis Tor, White Tor, and the Staple Tors. Roborough
Down, and beyond it Mount Edgcumbe, with the Channel, are in view.
Across the valley W. by S. is Brent Tor, with its little church, and
EXCURSION 9. BRENT TOR.
21
further away the Cornish eminences of Kit Hill, Brown Willy, and Row
Tor, besides many other prominent heights. A wide expanse of
diversified country is seen, embracing a great part of West and North
West Devon, and much of the country beyond the Tamar.
FROM GIBBET HILL.
S.E. by 8.
leaving Gibbet Hill we descend to the road near Higher Spring,
by which name some enclosures and cottages on the down are known,
our direction being S.W. On reaching the road, with Higher Spring
on our L., we have Smallacombe Bottom below us, and on the further
side of the valley the hill that extends to Heathfield, on the Tavistock
and Brent Tor road. Now we turn I,., and passing through Iron Gate
(but a wooden one, nevertheless), shall soon reach the Mary Tavy
Post Office and the high road to Tavistock.
[EXTENSION TO BRENT TOR. About ^ m. eastward of the summit
of Gibbet Hill is the Dartmoor Path (T. 21), and to this we make our
way. On reaching it we turn L., and a short distance on turn abruptly
R. and follow it down the hill past the school to the road near the
railway station, i m., where we shall cross the Burn and proceed to
the village of Brent Tor. The people living in this neighbourhood
were formerly known as Lamerton Outer Downs. Until the year
1882 much land now included in the parish of Brent Tor belonged
to the parish of Lamerton, and the name was used to distinguish those
parishioners who lived so far from their village and on the edge of Black
Down. At the present time the dwellers in the Burn Valley, although
in Mary Tavy parish, are ecclesiastically in that of Brent Tor, and are
still sometimes referred to by the Mary Tavy villagers as Outer Downs.
But the valley dwellers retaliate by speaking of the Mary Tavy men
as Over Downs. The village, and that part of the parish around it, is
usually known as North Brent Tor, the original parish, of which the
church on the hill is the centre, now being called South Brent Tor.
The church, formerly a chapel-of-ease to Lamerton, was built in 1857.
Passing through the village, and bearing L., we soon reach the
Tavistock and Lydford road at Batten's Corner. Here we turn L.
to the tor, passing the Herring Arms on our way. £ m. beyond this a
gate gives access to the down, but if we wish to see the interior of the
22 TAVI8TOCK DISTRICT.
church, it will be necessary to apply to the caretaker at Stag's Head
Farm, just opposite to the gate.
Brent Tor is of a conical shape, and forms a conspicuous landmark
for many miles around. The hill has been fortified, the vallum of turf
being still in a very good state of preservation. It is considered to be
volcanic in its origin, and a suggestion has been made that to this
circumstance it owes its name. Brent Tor is supposed to mean the
burnt Tor, the word being the past participle of the Saxon verb brennan,
to burn. But it is obvious that this cannot be its true source, for
all signs such as the Saxons would be likely to recognize of the hill
having been burnt must have disappeared long before their arrival, or
before that of earlier settlers who may be supposed to have given to
the hill a name equivalent to that under consideration. Another
suggestion is that its name has reference to the beacon fires which it
is thought were once lighted on this prominent height. This derivation
seems the more probable one, but if it be correct we are forced to the
conclusion that this merely superseded an older name, since it is impos-
sible to believe that such a stnking object as the tor did not possess one
in the earliest times. I am inclined to think that the name is derived
from the Celtic bryn, which means a hill, or mount. In the Cymric-
Celtic twr (pronounced toor, the w being equivalent to oo), signifies a
heap, or pile, so that the rocks on the crest of the height would be well
described as bryn twr, or hill frag, and this name probably became
attached to the settlement, on or below the tor. That there was a
settlement of some kind is evident from the circumstance of the hill
haying been fortified. It is very likely that the name is also seen in
Brinsabach, a farm on the further side of a combe to the S. of the tor.
Back, is a Celtic word signifying little, and bryn bach would therefore
mean the little hill. The natives usually speak of the hill and the
parish as " Brin Tar."
Several traditions of the kind usually found in connection with
buildings placed in curious situations attach to the church on this
hill. One says it was intended to build it at the foot of the tor, but
the Evil One came continually by night and carried the stones that
the builders had placed during the day up the steep sides of the hill
to its crest. At length it was deemed expedient to let Satan have his
way, and the church was erected on the site he had chosen for it — with
the intention, perhaps, of rendering it not easily accessible. It is also
related that the church was built in fulfilment of a vow, made by a
merchant at sea, and that it really is a votive church is not unlikely.
The fact that it seems to have been built by the monks of Tavistock
Abbey does not preclude this view. Mr. James Hine, the well-known
ecclesiastical architectural authority, states that the greater part of
the building is of contemporary date with the earliest remains of
Tavistock Abbey that at present exist, namely, the portion of the
cloister arcading in the churchyard. Brent Tor Church was dedicated
to St. Michael by Bishop Stapeldon on the 4th December, 1319, the
name of the parish appearing on the deed at Brente Torre. But that
a church existed there before that date is clear from a mention of it
in a deed of Bishop Bronescombe, of the year 1269. The walls are
very low, are furnished with a battlemented parapet, and are about
three feet thick. The tower is forty feet high, and now contains five
bells, but formerly there was only one. This bore the inscription
SHORTER EXCURSIONS FROM TAVISTOCK. 23
Gattus vocor ego, solus per omne sono. There is an east window, and
also two narrow early English windows. The nave is only 37 feet
6 inches in length.
Leaving this little church we descend the hill towards the S.E.,
where a gate opens upon a lane. We turn L. and follow this through
the few farms forming the hamlet of South Brent Tor to Wortha Mill,
on the hill beyond which we enter on Black Down. Brinsabach, to
which we have alluded, is in the combe on the further side of the Burn,
which is crossed at the bend by means of stones known as Batten's
Steps. We follow the road eastward to Iron Gate, whence we speedily
reach the Tavistock road. See ante.]
Should the rambler wish to return to Tavistock by the high road
direct from Brent Tor Church, he will leave the down at the gate
opposite to Stag's Head Farm, and turn L., and will also keep L.
where the road forks. Passing a part of Heathfield, most of which is
now enclosed, he will reach Pitland Corner in i£ m. Tavistock is
2 m. distant.
Shorter Excursions from Tavistock.
FOR DESCRIPTION OF OBJECTS REFER AS INDICATED.
S. Ex. 15. — Whitchurch Down, Plaster Down, and Pu Tor, 7 m.
Whitchurch Down (Ex. 7). Follow road past Middle Moor, and Mon-
keys' Castle to Warren's Cross (Ex. 7). Turn neither R. nor L-, but
follow road S.E. to northern verge of Plaster Down. Then bear L.
to the down below Pu Tor. Pass up over the common to the tor.
Descend N.W. to Moortown, and return to Whitchurch Down by
Quarry Lane (T. i., R. i).
S. Ex. 1 6. — The Windy Post, Beckamoor Combe, and Vixen Tor,
8 m. Over Whitchurch Down and through Quarry Lane, as in Ex. 7.
Then bear a little to the L. in passing up over the common, following
the cart tracks that will be seen on the turf, to the Windy Post near
Feather Tor. Barn Hill is L. Vixen Tor is now in view, straight
ahead. Descend into Beckamoor Combe, cross the stream at the ford,
and pass upward to the tor. Thence N. to the Tavistock road, and
turn L. £ m. on the road passes across Beckamoor Combe, where is
a large Streamwork. The ruin seen a short distance down, above the
R. bank of the stream, is an old smithy. From this point make across
to the Windy Post, and return by Quarry Lane, or follow the road
direct to Tavistock via Moor Shop and Mount Tavy (R. i., Ex. 7).
S. Ex. 17. — The Staple Tors and Merivale, 9^ m. By road as in
Ex. 8. On reaching the moor continue on the road past Beckamoor
Combe (S. Ex. 16), then strike up over the common L. to Little
Staple Tor, which overlooks the road. Continue northward to Mid
Staple Tor, and on to Great Staple Tor (Ex. 8). Just before reaching
the latter the path from Merivale to Peter Tavy (T. 14) is crossed. On
reaching this on returning from Great Staple Tor, turn into it L. to
Merivale, which lies S.E. From Merivale return to Tavistock as in
R. i.
The Merivale Antiquities and Great Mis Tor. Instructions for
reaching these from Merivale are given in Ex. i. The former are
24 SHORTER EXCURSIONS FROM TAVISTOCK.
described in Ex. i , and the latter in Ex. 6. The blowing houses on the
Walkham are also noticed in those excursions. See S. Ex. 5.
S. Ex. 1 8.— Peter Tavy Combe and Cocks' Tor Hill, 8| M. Oke-
hampton road for 2 m. (Ex. 9). Turn R. and cross Harford Bridge.
Bend L. for Peter Tavy village. On reaching it turn up by the school ;
then turn L. to the mill, and follow the path upward to the combe.
Cross the clam and climb the narrow path to Great Combe Tor. Follow
path through the enclosures to the commons. Climb the northern
end of Cocks' Tor Hill, cross it, and descend S. to the Tavistock road.
Return via Moor Shop (R. i).
S. Ex. 19. — Antiquities on Langstone Moor and Walkham Head,
\2\ m. To Peter Tavy as in S. Ex. 18. Pass the church and turn in
lane R. Thence as described in the Paths' section, T. 16, passing in
succession Boulter's Tor, Twyste Lane, and Stephens' Grave (Ex. 8).
J m. beyond this is the Longstone. The huts noticed in Ex. 8 are
reached by striking R. over the common after passing Stephens' Grave.
White Tor is visited from the Longstone (Ex. 8). The stone circle on
the other side of the down (Ex. 8) hes about -I- m. E.S.E. of the menhir,
but the rambler must keep to the L. of a direct line to it, the ground
about the springs of the Peter Tavy Brook being rather boggy. The
way to Walkham Head from the circle lies N.E. along the ridge to White
Barrow (Ex. 8). From White Barrow the rambler makes his way over
the Lich Path (T. 18) eastward, to the point where the peat track
branches from it L., just below. Thence to Walkham Head as in T. 16.
The return will be by way of this track to Peter Tavy. If the visitor
extends his ramble to Walkham Head the distance will be 1 7 m.
S. Ex. 20. — Wapsworthy and Hill Bridge, 1 1 m. To Peter Tavy
as in S. Ex. 18. Continue on road to Cudlipp Town as in Ex. 8, and
then on to Wapsworthy (Ex. 10), passing Church Lane L. Cross the
bridge at Wapsworthy, enter gate on L., and take the path (as in Ex. 8)
across the fields to Hill Bridge. Return as in Ex. 8.
S. Ex. 21. —Mary Tavy Clam via Peter Tavy, 7% m. To Peter
Tavy as in S. Ex.. 18. Turn L. before reaching the church. Pass
Peter Tavy Inn, and take the first gate R. Follow the bridle path,
and at the end of it pass through gate with Longtimber Tor L. (Ex. 8).
The clam is just above this (Ex. 8). Cross the clam and on to Mary
Tavy Church. After passing it take first turning L. Up the hill to
Lane Head. Turn L. for Tavistock.
S. Ex. 22. — Tavy Cleave, 1 1 m. Okehampton road to Lane Head,
and thence to Lane End, as in Ex. 9, passing through Horndon, Zoar,
and over Willsworthy Bridge (Ex. 10). From Lane End to the cleave
as in Ex. 1 1. Via Brent Tor Station, G.W.R., 4f m. From the station
follow the Dartmoor Path (T. 21). On reaching the higher end of the
Redford enclosures keep on E. by S., with Hare Tor high on the L.
Straight on till the Tavy Cleave Tors come in sight. The route from
Lydford Station, S.W.R., is given in the Lydford District.
S. Ex. 23. — Black Down and Gibbet Hill, n m. By road to the
Ashburys, as in Ex. 9. Gibbet Hill is less than £ m. L. on entering on
the down. The return may be made by way of Brent Tor (Ex. 9).
S. Ex. 24. — Brent Tor, by road, 4 m. Leave Tavistock by Higher
Market Street. Notice the equestrian ridge tiles on the house L.,
above the market place. Pass the Union House and up the hill. fm.
beyond this Hurdwick, formerly one of the possessions of Tavistock
Route 9. Tavlstock to Lydford and Oke Hampton. 25
Abbey, lies L. 2 m. from Tavistock is Pitland Corner, where a road
branches L. to Chillaton and Marystowe. Keep straight on, and the
tor will soon be seen. The gate named in Ex. 9 will be found R.
when the rambler is abreast of the tor. The return may be made by
train from Brent Tor Station. From the tor to the station, i-J- m.
Routes from Tavistock.
Distances are given one way only. Bearings of
Destination approximate.
R. 9.— To Lydford and Okehampton, N.E. by N. (A) BY ROAD :
Black Down, Skit Bridge, Fox Cross, Sourton. Lydford, via Skit, 8 m.
Reverse, Rs. 21, 23. Okehampton, 16 m. Reverse, R. 30. (B) BY
THE MOOR to Okehampton only : Peter Tavy, Walkham Head, Broad
Amicombe Hole, Dinger Plain, 18 m. Reverse, R. 30, B.
[The road route for the most part only skirts the moor. The tors
seen R. are noticed in Exs. 8 to 15. The objects passed in going to
Okehampton by way of the moor are described in Exs. 8, n, 14, 15-]
(A) The road is followed throughout. After passing over Black
Down (Ex. 9) it descends by Watervale, R. and L-, to Beardon, L.
(Take-off Stone by the wayside, see Ex. 10), and crosses the Lyd at
Skit Bridge. The path to Lydford village branches off L. at the
seventh milestone, before the bridge is reached, but this can only be
used by the pedestrian. Beyond the bridge the road to Lydford,
which is not far off, turns L. The Okehampton road runs on past the
Dartmoor Inn to Vale Down (Ex. 13), just beyond which is Fox Cross,
where a road turns L. to Bridestowe Station, S.W.R., less than £ m.
At the cross is a comfortable hostelry called the Fox and Hounds.
The road runs on through Southerly and Lake to Sourton (Ex. 13),
the tors of which name are R. Beyond Sourton Prewly Moor is reached,
where the road runs close to the railway. At the northern end of this
is Jockey Down's House, two or three dwellings by the roadside to
which the name of an old cottage is still attached. Pass the stone
cross R. (S. Ex. 34), near where a road comes in from Bridestowe, and
another runs off L. to Hatherleigh, and on to the railway bridge, from
which point Okehampton is 3 m. distant.
(Lydford may also be reached from Tavistock bv the road running
past Pitland Corner (S. Ex. 24) and Brent Tor village. The latter
lies R. after passing the tor. The road then runs to the Manor Hotel,
and thence to Lydford by way of Lydford Bridge.)
(B) The road over Black Down is the most direct way to Oke-
hampton, but in case the visitor should prefer making a detour and
crossing the moor, the route is here indicated. To Peter Tavy, as in
S. Exs. 1 8, 19. Pass the church and turn in lane R. to Smeardon Down.
Thence by the peat track to Walkham Head (T. 16), from which point
the route from Princetown to Okehampton is followed (R. 3) q.v.
(This route also shows the branch to Belstone).
R. io.— To Chagford and Moreton, E.N.E. (A) BY ROAD :
Merivale, Rundle Stone, Two Bridges, Post Bridge, Warren House Inn
26 Route 10. Tavistock to Chagford and Moreton.
(i m. branch L. to Chagford), Moor Gate, Worm Hill. Chagford, i8£ m.
Moreton, 20 m. Reverse, R. 36. (B) BY THE MOOR to Chagford :
White Barrow, Maiden Hill, Devil's Tor, Row Tor, Broad Down, East
Dart, White Ridge, Fernworthy, 19 m. Reverse, R. 36, B.
[The objects passed on the road route are noticed in Exs. I, 5, 6,
7. 8, 44, 46, 45, 21, 22. Those on the moor route in Exs. 8, 5, 46, 21.]
(A) Merivale, either by way of Mount Tavy and Moor Shop, as in
Ex. 8, or by Whitchurch Down, Quarry Lane, and the Windy Post
(Ex. 7, S. Ex. 16). Merivale (Dartmoor Inn) (Ex. i) is reached soon
after passing the fourth milestone from Tavistock. Cross the bridge,
and ascend the hill to Rundle Stone (Exs. I, 6) as in Ex. i. Keep
straight on due E. to Two Bridges, from which place the routes have
already been described. (See R. 4).
(B) Should the visitor feel inclined to walk across the moor to
Chagford he will first make his way to Peter Tavy and Smeardon Down,
as in R. 9, B., and S. Ex. 18. The peat track (T. 16) must then be
followed to White Barrow (Ex. 8), where he will find himself on the
I4ch Path (T. 18). This old path will bring him to the Walkham, E-
(he must be careful not to turn L. where it forks). He will cross the
Walkham at Sandy Ford, and immediately afterwards the Prison Leat.
Here he leaves the Lich Path, and makes his way across Conies' Down
(Ex. 5) in a direction E. by N., having as he proceeds Maiden Hill
(T. 1 6, Ex. 5) on his L. and Conies' Down Tor on his R. At the
distance of rather over i m. he will reach the Cowsic, just below its
source, not far to the E. of which is Devil's Tor and Bear Down Man
(Ex. 5). From the menhir he will proceed to Row Tor (Ex. 5), over
i m. distant, the direction still being E. by N. From Row Tor he will
follow the wall N.E. of it (Ex. 5) down to the West Dart, and up the
hill to its N.E. corner, its length throughout being J m. Brown's
House is R. as he ascends the hill (Ex. 5). From the corner of the wall
the way lies across Broad Down to Sandy Hole on the East Dart, the
direction being N.N.E., and the distance | m. (See post). He will
then follow the sheep path on the R. bank of the river up through the
pass above the hollow (which derives its name from the accumulation
of sand there), and having arrived at its head will be able to cross to
the L. bank. The course is then E.N.E. for i m. (care being taken
not to bear too much to the L-, and so get upon the fen), when the
Vitifer Mine leat will be reached. This he will cross, and steer E. by
N., having the crest of White Ridge R., and the Leat L. In a little
over i m. he will arrive at the enclosures belonging to Fernworthy.
[If the Dart can be crossed at Sandy Hole the course thence to
the leat will be N.E. The direct course to the latter from the Wild
Banks Corner is E.N.E. by N., but as it might not be possible to cross
the Dart it is better to go by way of Sandy Hole. The course, how-
ever, is here given. The Dart would be reached in J m., and should
be crossed near where it begins to bend towards the E. On the side
of the hill above this point is the Vitifer Mine leat (Ex. 46), which is
taken from the river about J m. higher up. It here bends N., and from
this bend the course is N.E. For \ m. the river will be on the rambler's
R. and the leat on his L. Then they will both be lost, as the former,
after flowing a short distance N., makes an abrupt turn and runs due
S., while the leat is carried from Lade Hill to the N. and E. sides of
White Ridge (Ex. 45). Soon after these are lost a little stream flowing
Routes 11 to 15. Tavlstock to Bovey, Ashburton, Ivybrldge, &c. 27
southward down Lade Hill Bottom into the Dart is crossed. From
this feeder (the second passed since leaving the river) the way lies over
White Ridge, the course now being N.E. by E., and in ij m. the leat
is again met by the Pern worthy enclosures.]
The rambler now descends the hill to the Assacombe Brook
(Ex. 21), and crossing this will, in about £ m., reach the Lowton Brook,
which he will also cross. \ m. beyond this the Fernworthy and Chag-
ford road is reached. To this point the line is still N.E. by E., but it
may have to be deviated from a little as the Lowton Rocks lie just in
the way. The road is followed N.E., passing Metheral, and leaving
the moor about £• m. beyond it. At the first fork the rambler may
either bear I/, by Collihole, or R. by Meldon Hill. If the former he
will reach Thorn, where he turns R. to Waye Barton ; if the latter he
will bear L. all the way, leaving the down on the R., and will also reach
Waye Barton. From this Chagford is about £• m. distant.
R. ii. — To Bovey Tracey, E. by N. R. 10 A. to Two Bridges
(branch off R. at Rundle Stone if for Princetown). Thence see R. 5, A.
B, and C, 25 m. Reverse, R. 43.
R. 12.— To Ashburton and Buckfastleigh, E. by S. To Prince-
town or Two Bridges see R. 11. Thence see R. 6, A, B, and C. Via
Princetown and Holne, 20 m. ; via Two Bridges, 21 m. Reverse, R. 50.
R. 13. — To Brent, Ivybridge, and Cornwood, S.E. round to S.
To Princetown see R. 1 1 . Thence see R. 7. Brent, 19^ m. ; Ivybridge,
20 m. ; Cornwood, 17 m. Reverse, R. 60, 61.
[To Cornwood and Ivybridge by road. Whitchurch Down to
Warren's Cross, and straight on towards Sampford Spiney as in
S. Ex. 15, but on emerging on Plaster Down bear R. at the fork.
About i£ m. from this the old stone cross on Huckworthy Common
is reached (Ex. 40). A short distance beyond it turn L., and descend
the hill to Huckworthy Bridge (Ex. 40) ;" thence through the lane to
Walkhampton village. Up the road S.S.E. for £ m. to Dousland
(Ex. 39). Cross the Yelverton and Princetown road, and skirting
Yennadon descend to Marchants Bridge (Ex. 38) over the Mew, the
village of Meavy (Ex. 38) being R. just before reaching it. Cross the
bridge and pass up Lynch Hill R. At the end of the down, where a
very narrow lane leads into Brisworthy (R. 8), turn sharp R., and then
bend L., descending the hill to Cadaford Bridge. Thence see R. 8.]
R. 14.— To Plympton and Shaugh, S.S.E. To Cadaford Bridge,
as in route 13. Thence as in route 8. To Plympton, 15 m. ; to
Shaugh, ic4 m. Reverse, R. 68.
R. 15.— To Princetown and Two Bridges, E. (A) Whitchurch
Down, Moortown. (B) Moor Shop. This route has been described in
Ex. 7, S. Ex. 16, Ex. 8, i, and R. 10 A. P.T., 7^ m. ; T.B., 8 m.
Reverse, R. i.
As mentioned in the Hints to the Rambler in Part I, it is presumed
that the tourist is provided with a pocket compass.
28 TAVI8TOCK TO CRANMERE.
ROUTES TO CRANMERE.
(The Pool is described in Part III. Directions for reaching it
are given in each District).
C. R. 3.— From TA VI STOCK via Pork Hill, 1 1£ m. To the com-
mons as in Ex. 8, £ m. beyond Moor Shop. Strike I,, with Cocks' Tor
Hill close L. ; thence to Roose Tor, N.E., from which the course is the
same along the ridge, keeping above the valley of the Walkham R.
When the stream bends R. above Mis Tor continue N.E. % m. beyond
this the Lich Path (T. 18) will be struck where it descends to Sandy
Ford. (This point may also be reached by way of Peter Tavy,
as in R. 10). Take the L. branch, i.e., T. 16, and follow it to
Walkham Head. Thence as in C.R. ie., which is as follows. At
Walkham Head leave the source R. and bear L. when ascending the
further bank, in order to avoid the fen on the summit of the ridge.
When this is reached Fur Tor will be a prominent object in the view
about N.E. Make for R. of this, crossing the Tavy on the way.
Descend into Cut Combe, E. of Fur Tor, and follow Cut Combe Water
downward, R. bank. When it bends L. leave it ; strike N. across Rush
Bottom and over the eastern side of Little Kneeset to where two
branches of Black Ridge Water meet, the point being rather over £ m.
from where Cut Combe Water was left. Follow up the L. branch, that
is, the western one, to its source ; the pool is £ m. N.N.E. of that point.
If the ground is bad ascend Little Kneeset, crossing it N.W. by N. to
Black Hole. A branch of the Black Ridge Water comes down from
the N. and joins the other less than £ m. due N. of the rocks on Little
Kneeset (1,665 feet ; the ground rises eastward of this), and about J m.
southward of Great Kneeset. Follow up this branch nearly to its
head (J m. under Great Kneeset), and then strike E. by N. along the
edge of Kneeset Pan direct to the pool. Pan L., good ground ; fen R.
C. R. 4. — From TA VI STOCK via Wapswortby, 1 2 m. By road
through Peter Tavy as in Exs. 8, 9. From Wapsworthy the old peat
track (T. 19) is followed to Brook's Head, whence Outer Red Lake
runs down through The Meads to the Tavy. Thence N.E. to that
river, which should be struck near where the Fur Tor Brook falls into
it ; below this, on the L. bank, is Tavy Hole Stone. Keep on N.E.
under Fur Tor, which is R., for over £ m. to where the Cut Combe Water
comes from R. into the Amicombe. Leave the Cut Combe stream R.
and follow the Amicombe L. for a very short distance, when turn R.
into Black Hole, and follow the stream running through it to the first
fork. This is £ m. due N. of the rocks on Little Kneeset. Turn L. and
follow the instructions given in R. ie.
From MARY TAVY and BRENT TOR. Route C.R. 4 is joined
at Wapsworthy by way of Hill Bridge, or, in the case of the former,
also by way of Horndon Clam.
For Routes from Lydford and Bridestowe see post.
30 [ LYDFORD VILLAGE AND GORGE.
LYDFORD DISTRICT.
DISTANCES. BY ROAD : These may be ascertained by con-
sulting the tables given under TAVISTOCK and OKEHAMPTON
remembering that Lydford (reckoning the DARTMOOR INN as the
starting-point) lies about midway between the two, i.e., 8 m. from
either, and adding or deducting that number of miles as the case may
be.
BY RAIL: G.W. and L.S.W., the same as from TAVISTOCK,
adding 6 m. if for Down trains, i.e., towards PLYMOUTH. Deduct
6 m. for Up trains, i.e., towards EXETER, L.S.W. only. BRIDES-
TOW E Station (L.S.W. only) is 9 m. nearer OKEHAMPTON, and
serves Lydford just as well as its own station. It is a little over J m.
from the Fox and Hounds, which hostelry is i in. from the Dartmoor
Inn, on the Okehampton road.
Important Points and Landmarks.
Porstall Cross— Great Links Tor— Hill Bridge— Noddon Gate.
Places of Interest. Black Down (Tavistock District) — Bra Tor —
Branscombe's Loaf — Brent Tor (Tavistock District) — Lydford Gorge
and Waterfall— The Lyd below Doe Tor— Skit Steps— Tavy Cleave.
Prehistoric Antiquities. Arms Tor: hut circles— The Rings. Watern
Oke : hut circles — Noddon Rings, on the Lyd : hut circles — Rattle
Brook : hut circles — Standon Houses, on the Tavy : hut circles.
Formerly a place of importance Lydford is now only a
village. The Castle is referred to in the Terms section, under
Lydford Law and Stannaries. Early in the nineteenth century
the Duchy Courts, which had long been held in it, were removed to
Princetown, and it then fell into decay. A site near the river is known
as the South Gate, and below the church are the remains of an entrench-
ment. A mound in a field W. of the cross roads in the village bears
the name of Gallows Hill.
Lydford Gorge.
Perhaps no beauty spot on the borders of Dartmoor is better
known than the romantic Lydford Gorge. [Gems, Chap. XXIII.] At
one point it is spanned by a bridge thrown across a deep and narrow
chasm. This is not far from the castie, and visitors are admitted here
-on the Monday in each week on payment of a small charge. At the
lower end of the gorge is the celebrated Lydford Waterfall, formed by
a small stream, which rises on Black Down, leaping from a considerable
height into the Lyd. To this part of the beautifully wooded ravine
visitors are admitted at all times ; tickets are to be had at the Manor
Hotel, near Lydford Station, where it is entered.
EXCURSION 10. SKIT STEPS. BEARDON. 31
Excursions from Lydford.
Tracks in the vicinity, Nos. 18 to 30. [These excursions extend
over an area comprehended within an imaginary line drawn from
Lydford Station, by Hill Bridge and Wapsworthy, to White Barrow
and Sandy Ford on the Walkham ; thence to the head of that river
and onward to Tavy Hole and the Amicombe ; thence N.W. across
Watern Oke to the Rattle Brook, and to the head of that stream ; and
thence by Stinka Tor and Branscombe's Loaf to the Sourton Tors.
Within this is included the Hamlet of Willsworthy, the name of an
extensive manor in Peter Tavy parish (Ex. 2), the boundaries of which
are as follows : From Buddla Corner on Black Down, by the bondstones
running by Down Pool, Tin Pits, and the Ring o' Bells to Prescombe
Corner ; thence to Sounscombe Head and Sounscombe Foot and
Beardon Gate ; thence to Lissicombe Head and down the hill to Lissi-
combe Foot ; thence to Greenwell, and across the marsh to the Walla
Brook, and up that stream to a bond-mark in Doe Tor Bottom ; from
Walla Brook Head to a cairn between Hare Tor and Sharp Tor ; thence
to Dead Lake Head and so down to the Rattle Brook ; thence to the
Tavy, and up the Tavy to Red Lake Foot ; up Red Lake nearly to
the head, and thence to a pile of stones ; thence to the head of the
Bagga Tor Brook, and down the brook by Bagga Tor Farm and the
Hare's Double to the Tavy ; thence down the Tavy to Hill Bridge,
and up by the stream on the edge of Chilly Wood to the enclosures,
and thence to Buddla Corner — most of these points are noticed in the
excursions. The hamlet includes Tavy Cleave within its boundaries,
and the beautiful Hare Tor. It is a matter for regret that such a
charming part of Dartmoor should be robbed of its quietude and
seclusion, but much of it has been acquired by the WTar Office
for rifle practice, as also has a part of Black Down belonging to
Mary Tavy. The Extension in Ex. 1 1 includes Fur Tor and Cut Hill.]
Ex. 10. — Forstall Cross, Snap, Hill Bridge, Wapsworthy, Linch
Tor, Brook's Head, Standon, Willsworthy Ford, Willsworthy Brook,
Yellowmead, 14^ m.
From Lydford village we shall first make our way by Lake to
Skit Steps, and thence by the path to the highway. Here we turn
S. at the seventh milestone, which we shall notice is rudely shaped
like a cross [Crosses, Chap. II.] Just beyond it, on the same side of
the road, we pass Take-off Stone [100 Years, Chap. II.], beyond which
in former days a third horse attached to a waggon when two only had
been charged for at the turnpike last passed, could not proceed. Pass-
ing in succession Lower and Higher Beardon we turn L. into Down
Lane, where we are on the line of the old Lich Path (T. 18). [A little
32 LYDFORD DISTRICT.
farther up the main road the Sounscombe Brook comes down from the
common, and here on the R. there is a gate. Just within it is a portion
of the King Way (T. 26) coming down from Black Down. Higher up
the road, and not far from the verge of the down is Watervale, where
was formerly an inn, which may possibly have suggested to Kingsley
the one he has placed on the common. The two stones — one near the
brook, and the other on the edge of the down above Watervale — mark
what was formerly the boundary line of Lamerton parish.] Entering
upon Black Down at the top of Down Lane, we follow the green path
S.E. over the ridge, turning neither to the L. nor R., to Porstall Cross
(T. 1 8).* L. as we descend the slope is White Hill, and R. is Black
Hill, surmounted with the Ring o' Bells (Ex. 9). Quite near to the
cross paths the mine leat (Ex. 9) makes a bend, and below this we
follow it for a short distance southward, when we cross it, and
still follow the track as it runs nearly parallel to it, with Yellow-
mead Farm below us on the L. We also see Redford, which lies about
£ m. beyond that farm in a N.E. direction. Our way lies across the
side of Yellowmead Hill and Snap to the corner of the down mentioned
in Ex. 9, where the view is described.
[If the start is made from the Manor Hotel the route to this point
will take the visitor to the moor gate, close to the cottages of the
L-S.W.R. Co. Here he enters on the down, and follows the green path
that runs up by Henscott Plantations, taking care not to branch R.
towards Gibbet Hill. When a little way from the gate he will notice
Hall Farm on the L-, locally Yal, immediately below which is a small
clapper. In rather less than a mile from the gate he will cross the high
road, and still following the track for about the same distance, will
reach Horndon Down Bridge (Ex. 9), where, turning eastward with the
mine leat on his R., he will be led to the footbridge mentioned in that
Excursion, below which is the corner of the down where the Lich Path
(T. 1 8) enters the enclosures.]
We follow the track across the side of the enclosure to Yard Gate
(Ex. 9), and passing through it shall make our way down the lane,
noticing Buddla Lane, which branches R., about 200 yards from it
(Ex. 9). At the fork just below (Ex. 9) we bear R., and shortly after
passing Hilltown Farm, shall reach Hill Bridge (Ex. 8). Instead of
passing up Church Lane (Ex. 8) we mount the steps L-, of the road
immediately after crossing the bridge, and follow the path through the
* Roads made by the War Office run over this part of the down.
These were rendered necessary by the formation of the Willsworthy
Camp (so called from its having been first formed near that place).
Since that time the character of this part of the moor, during certain
months of the year, is no longer what it was. Bnt the camp is usually
broken up in the early summer, so that visitors are not altogether
debarred from seeing the down in its undisturbed state. I have heard
old men, who had lived in the locality all their lives, speak of Forstall
Cross as Postall, or Postle, Cross, and as tracks such as the Lich Path
on which it stands are often referred to by the moormen as post-roads
it is not improbable that the latter may be the true name.
EXCURSION 10. WAPSWORTHY. STANDON. 33
fields described in Ex. 8. This path will lead us to Wapsworthy Bridge,
which is about \ m. distant.
Wapsworthy, which now merely consists of three farms, probably
represents an early settlement. It is rather amusing to find the name
given in one place as Waspworthy, and to be told that Wapsworthy
is merely the Devon vernacular, an idea presumably founded on the
fact that in the peasant speech wasp is frequently waps. Many strange
things have taken place on Dartmoor, but it is altogether beyond us
to conceive of wasps ever having formed a worthig, or settlement,
there. The name as it is pronounced to-day is met with on the Court
Rolls several centuries ago. Like other dwellers in the skirts of the
forest the people of this place sometimes neglected to keep up their
fences. In 1609 the inhabitants were presented at the Court at Lydford
for allowing the fence called Wapsworthie Hedge, hard by the forest
of Dartmoor, to be in a ruinous condition.
A footpath runs from Wapsworthy to Longbetor, beyond which
is the common under Linch Tor, but we shah1 make our way thither by
the road. Longbetor was formerly the abode of a certain " old squire "
who kept a pack of hounds here, and of whom more than one story is
related. The present house, as appears from a tablet in the wall, was
built in 1849, and is a little further removed from the Wapsworthy
Brook than the original dwelling, the remains of which may yet be
seen, including a part of the " old squire's oven." Above Longbetor
is a miry spot known as Wapsworthy Wells, and the scene of one of the
squire's adventures. Leaving the bridge we pass up the road as shown
in the Paths' section (T. 19), bending gradually E., for about £ m.,
when we reach a gate on the L., where a track leads through some
enclosures to Standon Farm. An immense wall, formed of the stones
gathered when the enclosures were cleared, will be seen "L,., and imme-
diately within the gate the turf-covered foundations of what apparently
was once a building. To this we shall presently refer. The track
through the fields crosses the Bagga Tor Brook at a ford, close below
which is a very interesting clapper, consisting of two openings, the
roadway being formed by two stones laid over each of these (T. 18).
Standon Farm was formerly haunted, but the ghost does not appear
to have done much harm beyond occasionally turning everything
in the house topsy-turvy. We pass up the road, and presently notice
another gate L., where a road runs in to Brousen Tor Farm, and is
continued to the ford mentioned above. Just beyond this gate the
road bends a little L-, and here on the R. of the way, is a green mound.
It is known as the Frenchmen's Grave, and according to the story
three brothers lie buried here. These Frenchmen are said to have
lived in the house, the foundations of which we were able to trace on
the turf near the gate. First one died and then another, both being
laid to rest at this spot. By-and-bye the surviving brother died, and
was also buried here, together with everything that their house had
contained. A farmer living near once thought of digging into the
mound in the hope of finding something valuable. But when he heard
that certain antiquaries in their searches on the moor never found
anything but " a passel o' flint an' shards," he abandoned the idea,
remarking that he had no time to " draw away 'pon sich foolish 'ole
games."
A little further on we enter a newtake, with Bagga Tor (1,219 feet)
34 LYDFORD DISTRICT.
close by on the I,., the farm of that name lying in the valley beyond it,
to which a road is seen leading. Here we are on the line of the Lich
Path, which may be seen coming down the hill from the E., and which
ran from this point to the ford on the Tavy below Willsworthy (T. 18).
We follow this and shall soon be led to the moor gate, on passing
through which we find ourselves in a large stroll, formed by the walls
of the Bagga Tor enclosures on the L., and those of Longbetor on the R.
At the outer end of the stroll a large bush will be observed in the
corner of the Bagga Tor newtake, and which, it may be seen, is pro-
tected by a wall built across the corner. Another will be observed in
the corner towards the N., and this is similarly fenced against the
cattle. These shrubs were brought from abroad, and were planted
here nearly sixty years ago. A note of the circumstance was made
at the time by my old Dartmoor friend, James Stephens, who passed
the whole of his life in this neighbourhood.
From this point the Lich Path runs about S.E. to White Barrow,
having Cocks' Hill (Ex. 8) S. of it, and Green Hill on the N., the slight
depression between the two being visible from where we stand. Green
Hill extends northward for rather over \ m., where is another very
slight depression, eastward of the corner bush at which we have arrived.
Northward of Green Hill is Linch Down, on which is situated Linch
Tor, in full view from the bush, and £ m. from it, and to this we now
make our way. The track which runs L. goes out to Brook's Head,
with branches to Walkham Head (T. 19).
Linch Tor is not of great size, and the principal pile is on the slope
below the crest of the hill. The southernmost pile is on the crest, and
around it stones are heaped in the form of a cairn. This is known as
Limesboro, and forms one of the forest bondmarks, the boundary line
being drawn from it northward to the pile of stones, mentioned as
forming one of the bounds of the hamlet of Willsworthy, and thence
to Wester, or Homer, Red Lake. Close to the cairn a small herdsman's
shelter will be noticed. The surface level is 1,697 feet- The western
side of this ridge, southward of the cairn, which descends to the Walk-
ham, is known as Stookey Moor.
Proceeding northward along the ridge, with the head waters of
the Walkham in full view on the R., we shall shortly cross the old
peat track that runs out to the ties (T. 19), one branch of which went
to the Walkham Head Peat Works, now disused. At that point there
is a ford over the shallow stream, and a track runs up the further side,
joining the path from Peter Tavy to the head of the river (T. 16). A
little above the works is a small feeder of the Walkham, called Ninny
Lake, and here many years ago stood a building known as the Turf
House. In this the peat cut for use at Wheal Betsy used to be stored.
The granite pillars that supported the roof are still to be seen. This
is not far below us on the R. as we proceed. On crossing the track we
bear a little to the E. of N., and at the distance of less than £ m. shall
come upon Black Lane (T. 19), which we may follow past Brook's
Head to its termination a short distance beyond. Brook's Head,
which is really the source of Easter, or Outer, Red Lake, is on the L.
Immense quantities of peat have been cut here, but the ties are now
covered with herbage, while heather and whortleberry plants grow on
their edges. Just below is Tavy Hole (R. 3), beyond which Fur Tor
(Ex. ii) is seen rising grandly.
5.LYDFORD DISTRICT.
'"EXCURSIONS
(EXTENSION TO EX.II.
36 LYDFORD DISTRICT.
Here we retrace our steps, and follow the track W. and S. until it
loses the character of such, and becomes a mere washed out gully.
Then we leave it and strike R. across the dip by the head of the Bagga
Tor Brook, and make our way up the E. side of Standon Hill to the
tumulus on its summit (which we were able to see from North His-
worthy, Princetown District), our course being about W. The view
from this point is good. On leaving it we strike N.W. by N. across
Standon Down, and descend towards the Tavy. Here in the wide
hollow opposite to the Tavy Cleave Tors (Ex. 1 1 ) is a group of hut
circles, sometimes spoken of as Standon Houses. In the time often
referred to as " back along " these, it appears, were inhabited, but the
owners were driven away by the Evil One, whose bellowing at night
was of so ear-splitting a character that they were unable to sleep.
The remains are situated on the slope, not far from the L. bank of the
Tavy, S.E. by S. of Ger Tor (Ex. 1 1 ).
From this group of antiquities we shall make our way down the
valley S.W. by S. to Willsworthy Ford, or Standon Steps, as the cross-
ing-place is more often called, keeping the Tavy near to us on the R.
the whole of the way. Crossing Putty Moor we enter a stroll at the
end of which is a path that will lead us directly to the ford.
[Immediately outside the wall of an enclosure S.E. of Standon
farmhouse, is a kistvaen, not, however, in a very good state of
preservation ; but this lies rather out of our way.]
Crossing the Tavy at Standon Steps we ascend the narrow way to
Willsworthy, and on passing the farmhouse shall find ourselves in the
road \ m. from Lane End (Exs. 9, 1 1 ), which is R. We turn L. to
Willsworthy Bridge (Ex. 9), and here a path will take the rambler
who is on his way to Lydford village to Forstall Cross. It runs up the
valley, with the Willsworthy Brook on the R., and passing very near
to Yellowmead Farm, soon after crosses the mine leat at a footbridge,
close to the cross. (This path passes over the ground recently acquired
by the War Office). There the rambler is on the Lich Path (T. 18),
which he will follow to the village. If the visitor is returning to
Lydford Station he will, on crossing Willsworthy Bridge, follow the
road and take the first turning R. by Will Farm (Ex. 9), and keeping
straight on up the lane will soon reach Yard Gate (Ex. 9). He will now
take the path L- to some mounting steps, and will pass up the common,
with the wall on his R. Not far beyond the corner of the enclosure
is Horndon Down Bridge, which he will cross (Ex. 9). Here he takes
the green track running N.W., branching L. at the fork, and will follow
it to the road that runs over Black Down. This he crosses, and still
keeping to the green path will be led to the gate by which he entered
on the down near the station.
[Should the state of the river render it impossible to cross at
Standon Steps, it will be necessary to descend to Hill Bridge. To do
this the rambler will make his way from Putty Moor to Standon
farmhouse, near by, and follow the road thence to the clapper before
referred to, and so on to the Wapsworthy road, where he turns R. He
will not, however, go as far as Wapsworthy Bridge, but will enter the
gate R.. mentioned in Ex. 8, and follow the path through the fields to
Hill Bridge, there described. (At the confluence of the Tavy and the
Bagga Tor Brook, about midway between Hill Bridge and Standon
Steps, there are also stepping-stones and a ford. This crossing-place
EXCURSION 10. HILL BRIDGE TO LYDFORD. 57
over the Tavy is known as Cataloo Steps, but is not approached on the
W. bank of that river by any public path.)
From Hill Bridge the Lich Path (T. 18) must be followed by the
rambler returning to Lydford village, the road taking him by Hill
Town, Will, and Yard Gate (ante). For Lydford Station he will make
his way from the bridge to Zoar Down, as described in Ex. 8. Here,
instead of bearing L. as in that excursion, he will make a path for
himself straight up over the down, crossing the road about midway,
and at its head will find an opening between the newtakes, and passing
through this will reach Horndon Down. Striking N.N.W. he will, at
the distance of £ m., reach Horndon Down Bridge, from which point
the route to the station has just been given.]
Tristram Risdon, who died in 1640, has left us an account of Lyd-
ford as it was in his time. He tells us that some considered that its
ancient name was Lyghatford, and remarks that during the Heptarchy
it was a town of some note, " that felt the furious rage of the merciless
Danes, but no way remarkable by any good buildings there. For in
the nineteenth year of King Ethelred's reign, anno 997, the Danes
arrived in the river Tamar, and destroyed the monastery of Tavistock,
consuming all that lay in their way with fire and sword, and amongst
other cruelties, burnt the town also. A place where no nice nation
would have made choice, for the situation of a town so overlooked
with Dartmoor hills, unto whose storms, without any shelter, it is
subject ; but rather the giant-like Albionists, such as are reported to be
the first inhabiters of this island, or at least some of Corinoeus' com-
panions, who vanquished these giants ; they would otherwise have
found a place freer from the weather's injury."
From the above the visitor will perceive that a great change has
taken place in Lydford since Risdon' s day. From being a spot of
which " no nice nation would have made choice " it has become one
much sought after by the tourist. But perhaps the change is not
altogether in the. place itself ; much of it may be in the taste of those
who visit it. What were not considered beauties in the seventeenth
century may prove attractive in the twentieth.
But Risdon is careful to add that the town had seen b-tter days.
" It may," he says, " prescribe for antiquity before many other of more
worth and receipt, to this day. Yea, it is averred, and there want not
proofs to maintain it, that it came little short of some cities ; for they
can show you where the gates stood, and also the foundation of the
walls that encircled it, compacted of moorstone and lime, which they
lighted on as they digged their fields ; whereof it may be said :
Waste lye the walls that were so good.
And corn now grows where Troy stood.
Furthermore, the number of burgesses do argue its former worth,
which contained within the walls (as appeareth by their charter) an
hundred and forty. In King Edward the Confessor' s days this borough
was the King's demesne."
38 LYDFORD DISTRICT.
Ex. ii. — Tavy Cleave (3^ m. distant), Watern Oke, Rattle Brook
Hill, High Down, 9 m. (including Ger Tor, 10 m.) WITH EXTENSION
TO Fur Tor and Cut Hill, add 5^ m.
[The path to Ger Tor from Lane End is described post, but a tele-
graph wire now marks the way. This communicates with the flagstaff
on the summit of the tor.]
Our first point will be the N. end of the Redford enclosures. If
we start from Lydford village we make our way by Skit Steps to Down
Lane, as in Ex. 10. On reaching the common we desert the Lich Path
(T. 1 8), and strike almost due E. to the corner of the plantation above
Bear Walls, and under White Hill (Ex. 10), following a green track
(T. 22) that runs out to the point for which we are making. We may
continue along this, with the plantation L.( or may still keep an
easterly line, and passing over the summit of White Hill, thence
make our way to the enclosure, which is just below.
[If our starting-place be the station, we pass up the side of Black
Down, with Henscott Plantations on our L-, as in Ex. 10, and when
near the head of the latter, shall leave the track, which bears R., and
keep straight on to the high road. This we cross, going due E., and
shall very soon strike the Dartmoor Path (T. 21) .into which we turn
L., and passing the Ring o' Bells (Ex. 9) and Forstall Cross (T. 18),
shall follow the grassy track with the Redford enclosures R. to the
point above named. (The stones noticed near the wall, with the
letter H. cut upon them, are bondmarks formerly belonging to the
Hamlyn property.]
From the N. end of the Redford enclosures we proceed in a direction
S.E., with Hare Tor on the L. This beautiful tor, which attains an
elevation of 1,744 feet, is of a conical form, and a striking object from
whichever side it is viewed. There is a small grassy hollow on its
summit, an unusual feature in a Dartmoor tor, though something akin
to it is met with on Longaford Tor (Ex. 5) and on Down Tor (Ex. 2).
The view is very fine, embracing as it does so much of the forest, and
such a wide extent of woodland and field. This tor, so we are told,
bears a strong resemblance to a hare, which, it is said, probably accounts
for its name. It requires a very strong imagination to perceive this
likeness, one that would see a mouse, or an ox, or any other animal,
in it had it borne a suitable appellation. Many of the Dartmoor tors
bear Saxon names, their more ancient Celtic ones, if such they pos-
sessed, having been lost. Whether the name of the tor in question
was given to it in Saxon times, or whether in a more recent day, it is,
of course, impossible to say, but it is at least certain that it has nothing
whatever to do with a hare. This is proved by an old map of Wills-
EXCURSION 11. TAVY CLEAVE. GER TOR 39
worthy Manor, on which the smaller pile to the N. of the main one is
named Little Hay Tor, and the other Great Hay Tor. It is not difficult
to see how the latter, rising as it does above the Little Hay, or High,
Tor, would become the Hayer, or Higher, Tor. An analogous case
occurs above Wapsworthy Wells, where a small pile on the slope above
an equally small clatter, is always spoken of as Hare Tor, or, as it is
sounded, Hayer Tor, the appropriateness of the name to its situation
being understood.
A little N. of Hare Tor, and not far \V. of the head of Dead Lake,
is a small tumulus known as the Hay Tor Bound of Willsworthy Manor,
and N. of this is Sharp Tor, called sometimes by the moormen Lydford
Sharp, to distinguish it from the chief pile of the Tavy Cleave group
or tors, which also bears that name. A century ago it was re-
marked by an antiquary that this tor well deserved its name some
of its points being as sharp as a spear, but he did not say that it
was derived from this. There are eight or ten Sharp Tors in the Dart-
moor country, and they probably received their names from
moormen in comparatively recent times, their old ones being lost.
The idea with them is not that the rocks are sharp, but that the pile,
whatever its form, is, in a manner, a point standing sharply up from
the common.
Having passed Hare Tor, our course being still S.E., we shall soon
reach the fine group of tors overlooking the deep Tavy Cleave. These
tors are five in number, and the hill on the brow of which they are
placed is so steep as to form what is practicallj' a cliff. (See remarks
on the word Cleave in the Terms section). To the N.E. of this group
a clatter covers the side of the hill descending to the river, and extends
up the Tavy nearly to Rattle Brook Foot. On the further side of the
stream the hill is also plentifully strewn with rocks. The view from
these tors, or from Ger Tor, is most impressive. In none of the
river valleys is there such a picture of wild grandeur as is here
presented. [Gems, Chap. XXIV.]
[If the rambler should decide to visit Ger Tor before making his
way to the Tavy Cleave group, he will, instead of striking across the
common S.E. from the Redford enclosures, keep the wall of them
almost close to him R., and when around the bend will proceed S.S.E.
As Ger Tor is in full view, although presenting no imposing appearance
from this side, there will be no difficulty in reaching it. The rambler
will probably strike the green path that comes up from Lane End
(T. 20) on his way. The road to Lane End from Tavistock has already
been described (Ex. 9), and it now remains to sketch the route from
that point to Tavy Cleave. If the rambler decides to make his way
up through the cleave, which is really the best way of seeing it, he will
turn R. at Lane End and follow the track by the hedge past Nat Tor
Farm. He will then turn up the slope L., and crossing the mine leat
at Nat Tor Bridge, find himself close to the rocks of Nat Tor. Here
a tiny enclosure of the kind formerly built by the herdsmen near the
tors, will be noticed, the entrance jambs yet standing. The leat will
now become the rambler's guide, and he will follow it to the weir,
obtaining a grand view of Ger Tor as he passes across the foot of the
clatter that descends from it to the Tavy. From the weir, or Devil's
Point, as it was formerly called, the river is traced upward to the
40 LYDFORD DISTRICT.
Rattle Brook. The Tavy Cleave Tors are seen to great advantage
from the river bank ; nothing quite of the same character is to be met
with on any other part of Dartmoor. The strip of ground at the foot
of the clatter gradually narrows as the rambler approaches the head of
the defile until it disappears altogether, when he has to make the best
of his way over the boulders that completely cover the side of the steep
hill and stream down into the river. The return from Rattle Brook
Foot to Lane End is sketched in S. Ex. 27.
Ger Tor is easily reached from Lane End, from which point it is
in sight, and only £ m. distant. Part way up the hill the mine leat is
crossed at a bridge, the situation of which can be descerned from the
gate. The view of the cleave from this tor is very striking, and the
pile itself, though not rising to a great height above the turf, is never-
theless a fine cluster of rocks. That its true name is Great Tor, as some
have supposed (Ger, or rather Gert, being simply the moorman's way of
pronouncing the word), is, I think, highly improbable. Between the
tor and the Tavy Cleave group the hill falls back, forming, as it were,
a huge amphitheatre. As the visitor passes from one to the other he
will notice a reave having much the appearance of a stone row, and
near it are hut circles. Other remains also occur hard by, and at the
foot of the slope on the river bank are the evidences of ancient mining
operations. Near the rock group is Green Gert, which is covered with
velvety turf.]
Leaving the Tavy Cleave Tors we shall make our way along the
side of the hill in a N.E. direction, with the defile on the R. for about
\ m., when we shall see below us the great bend of the Tavy. It is
here that it receives the Rattle Brook, which flows from the N., and'
to this stream we descend. Crossing it we mount the slope of Watern
Oke (Ex. 12), and following the course of the Tavy upward, and keeping
it in view, we shall soon be led to a cluster of hut circles in the midst
of a clatter. These were thoroughly explored in the summer of 1905
by the Rev. Irvine K. Anderson, Rector of Mary Tavy, who encamped
here. For many weeks men were engaged in digging into the hut
circles under his personal superintendence, and the work was thoroughly
carried out. Flint, and fragments of pottery, charcoal, and the usual
cooking-stones, were found, but no object of any exceptional interest.
On the opposite bank of the Tavy, on the slope of Knoll, a hill
sometimes called Outer Standon, and erroneously shown as Watern
Oke on a map made from a survey of the early part of the nineteenth
century, is a large mound, apparently thrown up by the tinners. At
one time they were busy here, as the extensive remains of their workings
attest. The moormen do not, however, connect this mound with them,
but regard it as having formed a kind of stronghold, and give to it the
name of Lord Mayor's Castle. A little further up the Tavy the tribu-
tary called Homer Red Lake, mentioned in Ex. 10, comes down from
the S. through Red Lake Combe, and immediately below the confluence
is a ford. An upright stone will be noticed on the R. bank of the river.
It is a bondmark connected with the peat works at Rattle Brook Head
(Ex. 12). That part of the moor between Homer and Outer Red Lake
is known as the Meads.
[EXTENSION TO Fur Tor and Cut Hill, 5-} m. From this point
Fur Tor and Cut Hill may be conveniently reached ; the former is
EXTENSION TO FUR TOR AND CUT HILL. 41
about 1 1 m. distant ; the latter i m. further. We pass up the valley
to the confluence of the Tavy and the Amicombe (barely 4- m), where
there is a crossing-place called Sandy Ford. The Tavy comes down
from Tavy Hole (R. 3) from the S., to the W. of it being Red Lake Hill,
at the top of which is Brook's Head (Ex. 10) £ m. distant. The Ami-
combe flows from the N.E., and it is this stream that we must follow.
To make a beeline for Fur Tor would lead us over some rather bad
ground, and it is therefore far better to go up stream for about -i- m.
to Amicombe Bend, where the river receives the Cut Combe Water,
choosing a path either on the R. or L. bank. It is not necessary to go
Black Hill. Fur Tor.
The Tavy.
FROM WATERN OKE, LOOKING E.
quite so far as the bend ; we may make our way up the stony hillside
to the tor when we find ourselves abreast of it. Fur Tor is perhaps
the grandest of the Dartmoor tors, for while there are some that rise
much higher above the ground than the loftiest of the piles here, and
also exhibit finer rock masses, there is not one that covers so large an
area, or whose surrounding are of the desolate character as those
upon which this lonely tor looks down. Fur Tor is a wilderness of
stone. Masses of grey rock stud the slopes that sweep down to the
Amicombe and its tributaiy stream. On one side the rambler may
wander amid innumberable lumps of granite, each a miniature tor, as
in a maze. The larger masses of this tor form two distinct groups,
one overlooking the great Amicombe Hill that extends away to the N.,
the other being E. of this, and nearer Cut Combe. We shall find the
first on the brow of the hill, and shall notice that it consists of six piles
of fairly large size and several smaller ones. From this we make our
way across the level piece of ground, where rocks give place to grass
and rushes, to the eastern group, which is the more important of the
two. Here are four piles, the chief of which has a very striking appear-
ance. On the highest part of it are three rock basins, one being so
near the edge of the granite mass as to render the result of the action
of the water in the wearing away of the stone visible from the ground.
On the western side of this tor an immense block of granite will be
observed hanging, as it were, midway between the summit and the
turf, and another similar block lies on the ground near by. The time
must come when this immense stone will topple over ; the tor is slowly
going to ruin. Below it, on the Cut Combe side, is a spot known to
42 LYDFORD DISTRICT.
the moormen as Fur Tor Wood. The name seems to point to the
former existence of trees in this sheltered hollow, and the discovery
some years ago of oak buried in the peat near Little Kneeset prove*
that they once grew around here. (For an extended description of
Fur Tor see Gems, Chap. II.)
Leaving Fur Tor we shall make our way to Cut Hill, the summit
of which is J m. distant in an E.S.E. direction, but our walk thither
will extend to about i m., as we sweep to the R. in order to avoid
descending into Cut Combe. We keep along the edge of this, which
lies L. ; on our R., i.e., to the S.W. and S., the ground sinks down to the
upper waters of the Tavy (R. 3). A great part of this hillside consists
of fen, but it does not extend quite to the edge of the combe, so that
our progress throughout will be over fairly good ground. From Cut
Hill, which rises to a height of 1,981 feet, a view of the solitary parts of
the forest is commanded such as can be obtained from no other point
throughout the length and breadth of the moor, though for wonder-
ful glimpses of the great waste Siddaford will by some perhaps be
regarded as its equal. We have already described the view from the
summit of North Hisworthy (Princetown District], but this from Cut
Hill is altogether wilder in its character. In the former very much
that man has done is visible ; but here, except for the distant Prince-
town, and the enclosures of Teign Head Farm, hardly a sign of his
work on the waste is apparent. Something of what lies beyond the
moor is seen, notably towards the west, and where the hills part ta
form a passage for the West Ockment to the north, and again towards
the east. But it is far away, and forms but a small part of the picture.
We look upon desolation ; upon a vast wilderness, from which life is
absent.
Among the tors and hills seen from this lofty spot, the following
are the principal : From W. to N. : Standon Hill, Ger Tor, the Tavy
Cleave Tors, and to the R. of these, on the great ridge running N. and
S. beyond the Rattle Brook, Hare Tor, Sharp Tor, Chat Tor, the
Dunnagoat Tors, and Great Links Tor ; Amicombe Hill, with Kitty
Tor towards its northern end, and distant about 3^ m. ; quite near to
us is Fur Tor, and to the R. of it, further away, Little Kneeset, and i m.
beyond this Great Kneeset ; a little to the L- of the latter we look
down the valley of the West Ockment, with Lints Tor at its head ;
on the R. side of the valley we see Black Tor, below which, though
hidden from us, is the Island of Rocks (Ex. 14), with High Willes, the
loftiest point on Dartmoor, towering above it ; to the R. in succession
we see Yes Tor, West Mil Tor, and Row Tor, about 3 m. beyond which
lies the town of Okehampton. The view from N. to E. is blocked by
the high ground beyond the East Dart, the upper valley of which we
look down upon. L. of its source wre see Black Hill, and R. of it the
hill named Newtake (Cranmere routes 5), 4 m. beyond which we observe
the summit of the great rounded mass of Cosdon. Over White Horse
Hill, N.E., the distant farm lands are visible. From E. to S. : A little
N. of E., and rather over 2 m. distant, is Siddaford Tor, quite close to
which are the circles known as the Grey Wethers (Exs. 20, 45) ; to the
R. of this tor is a fine view of the great ridge of Hameldon, 7 m. away,
and to the R. of that Saddle Tor, with the fiontier height of Rippon
Tor ; still further R. is Buckland Beacon, and almost in a line with it,
but nearer to us, Corndon Tor and Yar Tor ; Bellaford Tor, 5 m. to
<£> . EXTENSIONS
HILL
~ TO EXCURSIONS 11, W.
44 LYDFORD DISTRICT.
the S.E., we look down upon, as we do also upon Row Tor, near the
West Dart, Higher White Tor, and the conical Longaford, above Wist-
man's Wood (Ex. 5) ; far away to the S. are Eastern and Western
Whitaburrow, on the verge of Brent Moor, and the lofty Three Barrows,
that looks out over the South Hams (Brent and Ivybridge District) ;
R. of these, and very much nearer, is North Hisworthy, seen over the
crest of Maiden Hill, the latter being only 2 m. away. From S. to W. :
4^ m. as the crow flies the rocks of Great Mis Tor rise against the sky
S?VV*. by S. ; to the R. and beyond it, is Great Staple Tor and Roose
Tor, backed by Cocks' Tor Hill ; R. of this is White Tor, above Waps-
worthy (Ex. 10), and still further R. Linch Tor, and the great hill of
Standon.
(As in the case of the description of the view from North His- ,
worthy Tor (Princetown District), the reader is directed to the index
for references to the hills and tors here named).
The summit of Cut Hill is crowned with a low mound of turf, which,
although rising but a few feet above the surface, is yet seen very
distinctly even from a great distance. On the N. side of the hill the
fain has washed away vast quantities of peat, in one place to such an
extent that at first glance the visitor might be inclined to imagine it
had been removed by manual labour. Below this the hill is covered
with a network of gullies scooped cut by the rain, some of them very
deep, and this, too, is the character of the ground that extends north-
ward over Platters, and Black Ridge, and beyond Cranmere. On the
E. side of the hill the ground is of a similar nature, and also on the S.
as far as the springs of the Cowsic (Ex. 5). On the W. side, which
overlooks Cut Combe, the ground is firm and covered with turf.
(The route from Princetown and Two Bridges to Cut Hill is for
the first few miles over ground that has already been described (Ex. 5).
The rambler may make his way from the head of the Cowsic, as in
R. 3, to the Tavy, but steering due N., and trace it to its source, which
is on the S. side of Cut Hill. The springs of this river are in a shallow
hollow in the midst of the fen, and from this the summit of the hill is
about % m. distant, N.N.E. Another way is by Bear Down, as in
Ex. 5. If this is chosen the rambler will leave Lydford Tor I/., and
will steer N. with the Foxholes Water close on his R., to Row Tor,
thence descending to the West Dart, E., which he will follow to its
source. Or he may pass up from Two Bridges by Wistman's Wood
(Ex. 5), and then follow the Dart upward. Cut Hill is £• in. N.N.W.
•of West Dart Head. Whichever way the rambler chooses the last
\ m. will be across the fen, but he will find no difficulty in making his
"way over it in fair weather.
The return routes from Cut Hill to Princetown and Two Bridges
may be briefly described, as it is only necessary to bring the rambler
to the sources of the Cowsic and the West Dart. For Princetown
direct he will first make his way to Tavy Head, which can be plainly
seen from the summit of the hill ; it lies S.S.W., and -\ m. distant.
On reaching it the stream should be kept R., and followed for about
^ m. Here it begins to bend R., Cowsic Head, which cannot, however,
be seen, being rather over \ m. from this point L. The rambler's course
now is due S. over the low ridge between the upper waters of the two
streams. He is still on the fen, and the ground consequently anything
but good. It is of that spongy character which renders progress over
EXTENSION TO FUR TOR AND CUT HILL. 45
it rather slow. But the Cowsic is not far off, and as soon as its banks
are reached firmer ground is found. The stream is followed to Travellers'
Ford, about i m. from its source, from which point instructions are
given for reaching both Princetown and Two Bridges in Ex. 5, Part I.
(P. T., 6£ m. ; T.B., 5* m.)
For Two Bridges the best way is by the valley of the West Dart.
Longaford Tor, which overlooks it, can be plainly seen from Cut Hill,
3 m. distant in a straight line. The rambler may take this for his
guide ; it lies S.S.E. of the summit of the hill, and by following that
course for £ m. he will be led to the springs of the West Dart. In
tracing the river downward keep it on the R. (Ex. 5). If the rambler
wishes to go by way of Bear Down he will leave the river L., and make
southward for Row Tor, i m. below its source. Then, still proceeding
southward, he will keep the Foxholes Water L., and make towards
Lydford Tor, i£ m. S.S.W. of Row Tor. This he leaves R., and steering
S. will reach Bear Down Farm, and the road near Two Bridges. The
distances by these routes are a little less than by the former.
(The route to Cut Hill from Post Bridge is described in that District
(Ex. 46, Part I), and there are also directions for reaching it in the
Cranmere Routes, C.R. 3).
Making our way down the N. side of the hill we soon reach Cut
Lane (T. 79), and the two guide-stones mentioned in our notice of that
ancient path in Part V. Here we turn L., and following the directions
there given, shall shortly find ourselves below Fur Tor, and between
it and Little Kneeset. On the R. bank of the Cut Combe Water,
which will be on our L- as we approach it, and close to where it receives
a little feeder from the E., we may observe the foundations of a small
structure which has much the appearance of the remains of a herds-
man's hut. Little Kneeset (1,694 feet) is a fine hill of good hard
ground, covered with grass, and free from heather. It is peninsulated
by the Cut Combe Water and the feeder above alluded to on its S.
side, and by a tributary of the Amicombe on the north. This tribu-
tary, it may be well to observe, together with the lower part of the
Amicombe, is sometimes regarded as the Tavy, and thus it has been
said that this river rises near Cranmere. Little Kneeset forms a ridge,
and springs off westward from Black Hill (Cranmere Routes). When
we look at the sheltered situation of Cut Combe, and the grass on Little
Kneeset, and the slopes of Fur Tor, as well as on Amicombe Hill, we
shall hardly wonder that this part of the north quarter of the forest
has always been in favour as a pasturage ground. More than five
hundred and fifty years ago we read of the Preda de Vurtorre and the
Preda de Aunnacombe, and cattle have been agisted here ever since.
Passing out of the great combe, the entrance to which is formed by
the slopes of Little Kneeset and Fur Tor, we speedily reach the con-
fluence of the Cut Combe Water and the Amicombe. On the L. bank
of the latter is another good stretch of grazing ground, known as
Pinswell, but perhaps our best plan will be to cress the stream, and
make our way down the R. bank. \ m. below it joins the Tavy at
Sandy Ford, and a little further down the united stream receives
Outer Red Lake, at which point we set out on this excursion.]
Turning from the Tavy by the peat boundary stone, we pass up
over Watern Oke in a direction rather W. of N., and at the distance
46 LYDFORD DISTRICT.
-of less than a mile shall come upon a very high tumulus above the L.
bank of the Rattle Brook, which has more the appearance of having
been thrown up by miners than of an ancient mound. Near to this,
on the bank of the brook, is a group of hut circles, and further up stream
there are others. We cross the Rattle Brook at a fording-place just
above where the Green Tor Water and the Scad fall into it, and make
our way up the side of Rattle Brook Hill to Chat Tor, with Ker Beam
on the L. Chat Tor is W. by N. of the ford, and £ m. from it. It
consists of a single mass of rock, and is shown on a Duchy map as
Loaf, which, judging from its character, is probably its ancient name,
i.e., Llof (cf. Branscombe's Loaf, Ex. 13).
We pass over the ridge, bearing a little S. of W., and descend the
hill to Foxhole, a combe which has been extensively streamed for tin,
and which also has been the scene of more modern mining operations,
as the ruins of a building will attest. Through this valley, a favourite
spot with whoitleberry gatherers, runs the Doe Tor Brook, its source
being at the head of it, where is the spring known as Dick's Well
(T. 28, Ex. 12). We strike the brook at Doe Tor Bend, where the
stream suddenly changes its southern course for a westerly one. Here
we cross it, and pass down the R. bank, with Doe Tor, a small pile
which presents nothing remarkable, a short distance to the I,. Very
soon we shall reach Doe Tor Falls, a most charming cascade, hidden
away in a narrow rift. Above us on the R. is Bra Tor, on which is a
fine cross, about 1 3 feet in height, erected by the late Mr. W. Widgery,
the well-known artist, in commemoration of the Jubilee of Queen
Victoria, in 1887. Unlike the ancient crosses of the moor this one is
not hewn from a single stone, but is composed of a number of blocks.
[Crosses, Chap. XI.] Seen from any point this cross seems perfectly
in place, but appears to the best advantage when viewed from the
valley of the I/yd, below the confluence of that stream with the Doe
Tor Brook. As Ger Tor has been supposed by some, but without
much reason, to be a corruption of Great Tor, so there are those who
similarly imagine Bra Tor to be properly Broad Tor. It is only
necessary to state that an early form of the name is Brat Tor ; it
appears in a document of Henry VIII's time as Brattor.
Near the entrance to Doe Tor Farm, to which a track leads, we
leave the brook a little to the I/., and passing down through the disused
workings of Wheal Mary Emma shall reach a ford on the Lyd, where
there are some stepping-stones. Just below this on the bank of the
stream are the foundations of a building of the blowing-house type.
Crossing the Lyd at the ford we shall follow the track leading from
it across High Down to the moor gate near the Dartmoor Inn (T. 27),
to which a walk of about 4- m. will bring us. An alternative route to
the village will lead us down the right bank of the Lyd. Below the
point where the Doe Tor Brook falls into it we shall pass a clam where
a path leads to the farm, and below this and near Doe Tor Gate Ford,
is the confluence of the Lyd and the Walla Brook. Here a track runs
up the hill R. from the ford, and this we follow for \ m. to Doe Tor
Gate opening on a lane (T. 27). Here there are four large granite
slabs, one of them having a socket in it for the reception of the stanchion
of the gate, which, however, is now hung on hinges. (See Gate in
Terms Section). Passing onward we soon reach the high road, and
crossing this shall make our way by Skit Lane to the village.
EXCURSION 12. THE DUNNAGOAT TORS. 47
Ex. 12. — The Dunnagoat Tors, Great Links Tor, The Rattle Brook,
Kitty Tor, Amicombe Hill, Upper Valley of the Lyd, j\ m. Add i-J- m.
if from and to the village.
Starting from the gate near the Dartmoor Inn we shall follow the
track already described (T. 28), passing up between Arms Tor L. and
Bra Tor R., to Dick's Well, a distance of about 2 m. Although Arms
Tor (1,411 feet) does not rise to a great height above the ground, it is
nevertheless rather striking in appearance, particularly when viewed
from the slope of Noddon (Ex. 13), across the valley of the Lyd. The
Doe Tor Brook has its source a few yards S. of the boundary stone,
but time was when the stream rose at its foot. Ere it has gone long
on its way it runs among extensive workings of the tinners, across a
part of which we passed on our way from Rattle Brook Hill to the
Lyd (Ex. ii ).
Near Dick's Well a branch track leads R. to Rattle Brook Mine,
which ceased working many years ago, the main one bearing L. at the
junction, and reaching the stream a little higher up. But we shall
leave the track at the bondstone, and make our way to the two tors,
about i m. off, N.E. by E. These are known as Higher Dunnagoat
Tor (1,845 feet) and Lower Dunnagoat Tor (1,832 feet), and overhang
the Rattle Brook. On the further .side of this is Green Tor (1,774 feet),
E. of which rises the Green Tor Water (Ex. 1 1 ), a tributary of the
brook named, and having a course of about i m. Not very far from
the tor are the walls of a building erected in connection with some peat
works further up the Rattle Brook, but which were only in operation
for a short time. It is now known as Bleak House, a name which its
situation on a bare moor at an elevation of 1,740 feet, renders very
appropriate. Mr. Richard John King says that Dunnagoat, or Dana-
goat, as it is sometimes spelt, is " from the Cornish dan, under, and
coet, a wood."* He takes the name to belong to a hollow. But we
incline to think it more probable that in the first syllable of the name
we see the Celtic dun, a hill, and if the second really is coet, or coed,
that this may have been derived from the former presence of trees in
the valley of the Rattle Brook. Even now in parts of it a solitary
rowan, or oak, is to be met with.
Our steps will now lead us to Great Links Tor (1,908 feet), about
i m. to the W.N.W., and which we shall find to be a grand and imposing
cluster of rocks, the several piles rising to a great height above the turf.
Though its form is not so suggestive of a ruined castle as is that of Hey
Tor, when viewed from certain points, such a resemblance is not
altogether wanting, particularly when it is seen from the slope of Gibbet
Hill on Black Down (Ex. 9). Looked at from anywhere it is striking,
but perhaps creates the greatest interest when the rambler to Cranmere,
from the Chagford side, or from the East Dart Valley, sees it standing
up sharply against the sky as he approaches the piece of fen surround-
ing the pool. For some time previously, particularly if from the Dart
Valley, he has seen nothing ahead of him but dreary looking peat
ridges covered with bog-grass, when suddenly the rocks of Links Tor,
3^ m. away, come into view, and lift themselves higher with each
step he takes until they are fully revealed beyond the wide slope of
* The Forest of Dartmoor and its Borders. An Historical Sketch
<i856).
48 LYDFORD DISTRICT.
Amiconibe. The view commanded from the tor is of a verv fine
character. Much of the moor is seen in one direction, and an extensive
range of country which the husbandman has brought into subjection
in the other. High Willes and Yes Tor (Ex. 15) are seen to the N.E.
and away to the S.E., with only Amicombe between, the rocks of lonely
Fur Tor (Ex. 1 1), crowning the great grassy hill that rises from the fen.
Against the western sky the loftiest hills of Cornwall uplift themselves,
and when the sun shines upon it there is a glimpse of the sea, over which
the warders looked out in the old days from the walls of Tintagel.
Mr. King derives the name of this tor, which he renders Lynx, from
lynnek, or lynnic, wet, marshy, but we fail to see any justification for
this. On one side of the tor there is a small hollow — a niche hewn by
Nature in the great wall of granite. Little Links Tor is merely a small
pile on the side of the hill to the N.W.
[Should the visitor wish to make his way direct to Great Links
Tor he cannot do better, after crossing the Lyd, than ascend Arms Tor,
from which point Links Tor is in full view | in. to E.N.E. On the way
he will pass a small circular enclosure.]
From Great Links Tor we strike E.N.E. to the bridge over the
Rattle Brook leading to the peat works, % m. distant, and in view as
we descend. These works were established in 1878, and the railway
from Bridestowe Station for the conveyance of the peat was cut in the
following year. Operations did not continue very long, nor have the
endeavours to re-start them that have more than once been made,
met with great success. We cross the bridge, noticing Hunt Tor (1,843
feet), a large mass of rock, on the L., and passing the peat buildings
make our way E.N.E. to Kitty Tor, •§• m. distant. This tor does not
rise high above the ground, but stands in such an elevated situation
that its altitude is equal to, if not greater than, that of Great Links
Tor. The Ordnance Map gives the height of the latter as 1908 feet, as
already stated, and the height of Kitty Tor as i ,920 feet, but I cannot
say on what parts of the tors these levels were taken. Kitty Tor stands
near the northern end of Amicombe Hill, which large tract of pasturage
ground extends from Watern Oke on the S. to the forest boundary line,
marked by Stinka Tor, on the N. On the W. it is bounded by the
Rattle Brook, and on the E. by the head waters of the Amicombe and
the West Ockment from Kneeset Foot to Sandy Ford. Watern Oke
is really a part of the hill, and forms its southern extremity, extending
from the lower waters of the Rattle Brook to Amicombe Bend (Ex. 1 1 ).
A number of weird stories attach to Amicombe Hill. Fires are some-
times seen there at night, lighted, it has been said, by the Evil One, who
keeps watch over the men of Tavistock and Okehampton, between
whom there was formerly a deadly feud. Satan, ever on the lookout
for mischief, is supposed to be waiting an opportunity to stir up the
old enmity.
Stinka Tor is about \ m. northward of Kitty Tor, and is noticed
in our next excursion (Ex. 13).
Leaving Kitty Tor we retrace our steps to the bridge at the peat
works, or we may follow the track (T. 30) that runs close by it, to Rattle
Brook Head, and Hunt Tor, on the side of Woodcock Hill. In the
former case we pass from the Rattle Brook up the incline of the peat
railway for about •} m., where it bends R., when we leave it and steer
a little N. of W., and descend towards the Lyd. If the latter route be
EXCURSION 13. NODDON GATE. THE KING WAY. 49
chosen, we shall, on leaving Hunt Tor, strike W. by S., and crossing
the railway also make towards the Lyd. In either case the summit of
Noddon (Ex. 13), the rounded hill rising on the further side of the
river, should be taken as a guide. We should strike the Lyd where a
small tributary flowing from the E. falls into it, where it runs by ,
the foot of the steep slope of Noddon. The valley here is very fine, U'
and remains of a former day are not wanting to add interest to it. ' .
Just below the confluence, and on the L. bank of the Lyd, is a fine
group of hut circles, and a small circular pound. We pass down by
the river with Arms Tor above us on the L., and at the distance of £• m.
shall reach the steps at Noddon Ford below Noddon Gate (Ex. 13, T.
29). On the hillside to the L. another group of hut circles will be
found, which, from their proximity to Arms Tor, are sometimes referred
to as Arms Tor Rings, -i- m. below the steps we reach High Down
Ford, where we shall cross the stream, and following the track shall
soon find ourselves at the gate near the Dartmoor Inn.
Ex. 13. — Noddon, The Upper Lyd, Stinka Tor, Branscombe's Loaf,
Corn Ridge, The Sourton Tors, Lake Down, n m. Add i£ m. if from
and to the village.
From the Dartmoor Inn we shall proceed by the Okehampton
road to Vale Down, a walk of about £ m. On reaching the common
we have on our L. Battishill Down, and adjoining this on the N., Fern-
worthy Down, but our way will take us across the turf R. to Noddon
Gate, on the line of the King Way (T. 26). Passing through this we
cross the peat railway at a bridge, and following the old track (or
another, made by peat carts, running parallel, and very near to it) we
shortly reach the corner of the enclosures on the I/. From this corner
a hedge runs in the same direction as our path, and forms the boundary
of Southerly Down, which is below it. Whether this hedge, or the
wall of the enclosures further down the hill to the W. of it, is the
Southerly Wall referred to in certain presentments at the Lydford
Courts some centuries ago, is not certain, but that the inhabitants of
Southerly were often ordered to repair the wall that fenced their lands
against the forest, and also the gate by which they gained access to the
moor, the entries on the Court Rolls abundantly prove. N. of Southerly
Down is a small piece of common called Combe Down, and the Rolls
show that the dilapidated condition of the gate opening upon this was
also the cause of a presentment at the Court. N. of Combe Down is
Lake Down, at the N.E- corner of which is a mark called the Spring
Rock.
Passing a despoiled tumulus we follow the track upward, with
Noddon on the R. This rounded height, to which the fanciful name
of Plum-pudding Hill has been given, is very precipitous on the E. side,
where it rises nearly 230 feet above the Lyd, its total elevation being
1,430 feet. As we proceed we shall notice that the hedge before refeired
to now presents a remarkable similarity to a stone row, and stops
suddenly in a tiny hollow, where the track comes up from Southerly
and Combe (T. 30), and crosses the King Way. Here the character
of the common changes, the ground beyond this point being covered
with rocks. We do not, however, proceed any further along the line
of the King Way, which the peat railway here cuts into, but shall
follow the track from Southerly, which passes under the line. Our
So LYDFORD DISTRICT.
next point is Lyd Head, to which the track will lead us (T. 30), but if
we prefer it we may pass down to the stream and trace it to its source.
In either case we again cross the railway just before the springs are
reached. If we make our way by the river we shall come upon an
extensive stream work, where on the L. bank is a small cave, usually
spoken of as The Hut. More than one story is told in connection with
it. According to these it has been a place where the " old men "
used to shelter ; a smuggler's store- place ; a gipsies' haunt ; and a
home of the pixies. That it was used by the " old men," or early
miners, is not at all improbable.
The Lyd rises near Gren Tor, in the dip between Woodcock Hill
and Corn Ridge, its source being a mire known as Tiger's Marsh, which
runs up the hollow about E. by N. The stream is crossed just below
its source by Lydda Bridge,* a rude structure over which passes not
only the track we have followed from Southerly Down (T. 30), but
also another that comes up from Prewley Moor (T. 32). Gren Tor,
•which is a rather striking object, though of small size, is situated close
to the track S.E. of the bridge. Like Green Tor, on the Rattle Brook
(Ex. 12), i£ m. away, it is called by the moormen Grinny, or Grenny
Tor. Our next point is Stinka Tor, which we may reach either by
striking over Woodcock Hill, in a direction E. by N., the distance
being i m., or we may follow the track for i m., when we shall find
ourselves about J m. from it. The latter will perhaps be the better
plan. The track will take us close to Hunt Tor (Ex. 12), immediately
after passing which we cross the higher part of the mire at Rattle
Brook Head (Ex. 12), and J m. beyond this, where the track turns
suddenly southward to Kitty Tor (Ex. 12), we leave it, and strike
N.E.
Stinka Tor, which is nearly \ m. above Sandy Ford, on the West
Ockment (Ex. 14), overlooks the deep valley through which that river
runs from the forest to the Meldon Gorge, and which is noticed post
(Ex. 14). The tor, which is small, acts as a forest bondmark, the
line being drawn to the ford named in one direction, and to Rattle
Brook Head in the other. In the 1609 survey of the forest bounds
the tor appears as Steinegtorr, but in another document to which
authority also attaches, the name is given as Steng-a-tor, or Sourton
Tor, the latter having reference to its situation on the boundary line
of the common lands of Sourton and Bridestowe, which is here con-
terminous with that of the forest. In 1699 we find it in the same
form as at the present day, a moorman of Lydford, named John
Clement, referring to it in a deposition taken in a certain suit in that
year, as Stinkatorr.
Leaving this pile we make our way in a direction N.W. by N., the
Ockment Valley being below us R. (Ex. 14). On the further side is
High Willes, with Forsland, or Fordsland, Ledge, just below it in the
foreground. Yes Tor is a short distance beyond Willes, and down the
valley in advance of us are the piles of Black Tor. (These are noticed
in excursions in the Okehampton District). Keeping along the brow
of the hill, but not too low down, we shall, at the distance of -i m. from
Stinka Tor, reach some scattered rocks known as the Slipper Stones,
opposite to Black Tor Copse (Ex. 14), and here we shall turn L. up the
* A corruption, in all probability, of Lyd Head.
7. LYDFORD ftOKEHAMPTDN Premiers
EXCURSIONS 1
mRTOFEX.13QNMAP5
*- LX .14- ON
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5 is<£>)
OF
52 LYDFORD DISTRICT.
hill. It will be noticed that the topmost stone wears the form of a
huge slipper. Our course is now W. by N., and our next point the
square mass on the slope of Corn Ridge called Branscombe's Loaf,
rather more than i m. away. In the name c f this lump of granite we
probably see the Celtic word Llof, an excrescence, which is not an
unsuitable description of it, resting as it does on the smooth turf with
no scatteied blocks surrounding it as in the case of the tors. (Cf. Chat
Tor, Ex. 1 1 ). But the name is usually associated with a loaf of bread,
and it was therefore with amazement that the baker " in along " heard
the Sourton native declare that when he came out his way he would
show him a bigger loaf than any he had ever seen : — " Us Sourtou
vokes got monstrous appetites, you knaw." Close by is a smaller
lump, and the both are generally known as Branscombe's Ix>af and
Cheese.* Just above the rock, on the summit of Corn Ridge, is a large
cairn, and on the further side of the hill \ m. below this, in a S.W.
direction, is a short level on the peat railway, where it forms an acute
angle. On this the wagons were run in and stopped, while the points
were shifted. The horses were then hitched to what had before been
the hinder part of the truck, and the jovtrney up the hill was resumed.
Between the cairn and this spot is the peat track to Kitty Tor, which
passes over Lydda Bridge (T. 30, 32, Ex. 12).
We descend the northern slope of Corn Ridge into the dip between
that hill and the Sourton Tors, which are in fuU view N.W. Here we
reach the King Way (T. 26) running nearly N. and S., close to
which we may observe a large worked granite stone. It is the half of
a trough, of the kind used for pounding apples in, evidently broken in
the course of being cut. Near by. and close to some shallow pits,
now overgrown with turf, and which mark the site of some long-
disused ice works, a row of granite posts may be seen. The spot is
known as Iron Gates, and forms one of the boundaries of Sourton
Common. The wider gap between two of them seems to show where
the old King Way passed. The branch track that goes eastward runs
out to some mine workings known as Crocker's Pits.
Climbing the slight ascent to the Sourton Tors we shall find our-
selves among the scattered rock clusters covering the greater part of
the hill. The principal pile, at the N.W. of the groups, is known as
East Tor, that being its relative situation to the village of Sourton.
which is just below it. Upon this little place we now look down, and
may make our way thither if we choose by the track that crosses the
railway close to the church. Not many years ago Sourton was a
typical moorland village, but the presence of the railway, and the
erection of one or two modern buildings, has robbed it of much of this
character. In this parish of less than four hundred inhabitants there
was, in 1904, one resident over a hundred years of age, and several
between eighty and ninety. Our homeward way will lead us through
the hamlets of Lake and Southerly to the Fox and Hounds, i m.
beyond which we shall reach the Dartmoor Inn whence we set out.
* The name Branscombe occurs in another part of the county,
and its derivation from bran, a crow, and cwm. a valley, i.e., the crow's
valley, has been suggested. But the true Celtic form would be Cwm
Bran. It should be noticed that a combe, known as Corn Hole, is to
be seen on the hillside below this mass of rock.
SHORTER EXCURSIONS FROM LYDFORD. 53
[From the Sourton tors the walk may be extended by descending
the N. end of the hill to Prewley Moor, and passing under the railway
(T. 32) to the high road, and turning L. to Sourton. Or the rambler
may shorten it a little by striking down the hill S. by E. to the head of
Withycombe Bottom, and making his way by a green path (T. 31),
with that valley on his R. and Lake Down on his L., to the Lake
Viaduct. This will be found a very charming walk. The sides of the
valley, through which a little stream runs, are steep, and the further
one partly wooded. At the bottom are a few vestiges of the old
Torwood Mine. Passing under the viaduct the rambler will follow
the lane by the stream to the hamlet of Lake, situated on the high road,
and about i\ m. from his destination.]
Shorter Excursions.
S. Ex. 25. — Brent Tor from the Manor Hotel, 6t m. By the Tavi-
stock road, passing the entrance to Burnville L-, and Langstone R.,
and on to the Herring Arms. Up the hill J m. to the gate as in Ex. 9.
Return past the Herring Arms to Batten's Corner, £ m. N.E. ; turn R.
and follow road through Brent Tor village to the railway bridge by the
station. Cross this, and entering on Black Down, turn L., and follow
the green path parallel to the railway to the gate near Lydford Station.
(The rock on the hill immediately in front of the Manor Hotel is Was
Tor).
S. Ex. 26. — Hill Bridge, j\ m. To Horndon -Down Bridge as in
Ex. 10, if from the station. If from the village the route will be to
Beardon (Ex. 10), thence up the hill past Watervale to Black Down.
Then over the down by the track L. (T. 24), which is reached just
before the road drops down into the hollow where a little stream passes
under it. The track runs S.S.E. direct to Horndon Down Bridge.
Thence S.S.E. to the opening between the enclosures (see end of
Ex. 10), and so to Zoar Down. To the lower L. corner of this, crossing
the road on the way, and thence by the narrow lane to Lower Town, not
far below which the bridge is reached (Ex. 8). The return may be by
way of Hill Town, Will, Yard Gate, and Snap, as in R. 2. If from
and to the station, 6J m.
S. Ex. 27. — Hare Tor, 7 m. (village). To the tor as in Ex. n.
Thence northward to Sharp Tor, and down to Foxholes, as at the end
of that excursion, and home by way of High Down as there described.
6 m. (village). The return may also be made by way of the Tavy
Cleave Tors, Ger Tor. and White Hill (Ex. n). From Hare Tor we
strike S.S.E. \ m. to the first-named group, and then S.W. for about
the same distance to Ger Tor, keeping on the brow of the hill instead
of descending into the hollow between them. (W. of Ger Tor a track
leads down to Lane End (T. 20), about | m. distant). From Ger Tor
the course will be N.N.W. to the wall of the Redford enclosures, which,
when reached, is kept close on the L. for a short distance. The course
is then due W. over the summit of White Hill to the gate at Down
Lane. Thence through Skit as in R. 2.
54 SHORTER EXCURSIONS FROM LYDFORD.
S. Ex. 28. — Valley of the Lyd and Bra Tor, 5! m. (village). High
Down by the gate near Skit Bridge (Ex. 1 1 ), or by that near the Dart-
moor Inn. To Wheal Mary Emma Ford below Bra Tor ; cross the
stream, and pass up the common with the Doe Tor Brook R., noticing
the falls mentioned in Ex. 1 1. Ascend Bra Tcr (Ex. 1 1), and turn N. to
Arms Tor. Thence W. down the hill to the hut circles (Ex. 12) ;
cross the Lyd at the stepping-stones, and pass up the hill to Noddon
Gate (Ex. 13). Take the track R. to the Fox and Hounds and turn
L., or strike across Vale Down from the gate to the high road.
S. Ex. 29. — Noddon, 7% m. (village). By the Okehampton road
and Noddon Gate as in Ex. 13. Follow the track as there described
till the hill is R. (nearly £ m. from the gate). Then cross the peat
railway and ascend it. Turn I,., and down the northern slope, with
the railway near by, L-, to the bridge. Pass under it and strike down
the hill W. across Southerly Down (Ex. 13). At the bottom, between
two enclosures, the track R. leads to Combe ; the L. one to Southerly.
Follow the latter, passing under the railway to the high road, and turn L.
Cranford Bridge is reached in a few minutes. Note the little clapper R.
over the Cranford Brook in front of a cottage. Straight road home.
S. Ex. 30. — Great Links Tor, 6 m. (village). As in Ex. 1 2. Return
by descending the hill W. to the Lyd, and home as at the end of that
excursion.
S. Ex. 31. — Branscombe's Loaf, 9^ m. (village). By Noddon Gate
as in Ex. 13, but instead of passing under the peat railway continue
up the hill, keeping the line R. At the point where it forms an angle
leave it, and climb the hill N.E. to the cairn on the summit of Corn
Ridge (Ex. 13). The Loaf is just below this. Return by striking W.
across the dip to the head of Withycombe Bottom (Ex. 13), and
descend to Lake.
S. Ex. 32. — The Sourton Tors, 10 m. (village). By the Okehamp-
ton road to Higher Collaven, J m. beyond Lake, and a little over 3 m.
from the Dartmoor Inn. Turn R. from the high road (T. 32), and pass
under the railway ; on reaching the common the tors will be seen just
above. Return by way of Sourton village, as in Ex. 13, and home by
the high road ; or pass into the dip E. of the tors, and follow the King
Way (T. 26) S. It soon strikes the peat railway, which is then followed
to Noddon Gate (Ex. 13), from which the route will be as in S. Ex. 28.
If by way of the peat lailway, 9 m.
S. Ex. 33. — The Island of Rocks. By Noddon Gate and the peat
railway, n£ m. (village). By Lake, 124 m. (village). (Okehampton
District, Ex. 14). The first point is the dip between the Sourton Tors
and Corn Ridge (Ex. 13), which may be reached by the route given in
S. Ex. 31, striking L. along the King Way (T. 26) towards the dip just
before reaching the point where the peat railway forms an angle
(Ex. 13) ; or by the Okehampton road to Lake. In the former case the
King Way must not be followed very far after it leaves the railway, as
the visitor must not descend into the dip, but make his way across the
northern slope of Corn Ridge ; he therefore strikes R., not, however,
ascending the ridge, and maintains a N.E. course. This will lead him
down the hill to the Island, Shilstone Tor being on his R. as he ap-
proaches it. If he goes by way of Lake, which is the longer, he will
turn R. at the hamlet, and following the lane by the stream, pass
under the viaduct. Then take the green path L. up the steep side of
ROUTES 16, 17, 18. LYDFORD TO CHAGFORD, BOVEY, Etc. $5
the common, with Withycombe Bottom (Ex. 13) L. At the head of
this is the dip, and the King Way will soon be struck. Cross this, and
steer N.E. by E., passing through the dip and descending the hill.
Part way down Corn Hole is crossed. Care must be taken to leave the
little Vellake stream well to the L-, and Shilstone Tor to the R. Return
to the dip, i m. up the hill W.S.W., from which point homeward routes
are given in Ex. 13 and S. Ex. 32.
[During rifle practice that part of the moor in the neighbourhood
of Tavy Cleave must be avoided by the public.]
Routes from Lydford.
Distances one way only.
R. 16.— To Okehampton, N.E. by N. By Road : See Route 9,
8 m. Reverse, R. 30.
[Objects passed are described in Exs. n to 15.]
R. 17. — To Chagford and Moreton, E. by N. High Down, Rattle
Brook Hill, Amicombe Hill, Great Kneeset, Cranmere Pool, Newtake,
Hew Down, Batworthy, Teigncombe, 14^ m. See Cranmere Routes :
C.R. 5 to the Pool, thence by C.R. 12. The reverse will also be found
in these routes. For Chagford to Moreton by road see that district.
Reverse, R. 37.
[Objects passed described in Exs. 11, 12, 19, 20 ; and in the Cran-
mere Routes.}
R. 1 8. —To Bovey Tracey, E. by S. Hill Bridge, White
Barrow, Lich Path, Bear Down Newtake Wall, Longaford Tor, Moreton
Road. Thence (A) via Bellaford and Shallowford, 24 m. ; (B) via
Post Bridge and Runnage, 25 m. Reverse, R. 44.
[Objects are noticed in Exs. 10, 5, 46, 44, 27, 26, 25.]
Hill Bridge as in S. Ex. 26. Thence to the outer end of the stroll
between Bagga Tor and Longbetor, as in Ex. 10, and thence S.E. by
the Lich Path (T. 18) to White Barrow (Ex. 8). Follow the Lich Path
E-, taking the R. branch at the fork part way down the hill. Then
cross the Walkham at Sandy Ford, and the Prison Leat at the bridge.
Continue on the Lich Path E. for about i£ m. to Travellers' Ford
(Ex. 5) on the Cowsic. Cross the stream, leaving the path, and taking
the wall of Bear Down Newtake for a guide, keep it on the R. This
will lead over the hill to the West Dart, where the Foxholes Water
(Ex. 5) falls into it. Cross the Dart, and keep E. up the hill, with
Longaford Tor (Ex. 5) a little to the R. £ m. after passing the tor the
Cherry Brook (Ex. 46) will be reached, N. of the Powder Mills. If
Route A be chosen this stream must be followed downward to Higher
Cherry Brook Bridge, whence the way is described in Route 5 (B) ;
if B be the route the rambler will keep straight on when he crosses the
brook, leaving Arch Tor, which is merely a small lump of rock, L.
This will bring him to the Powder Mills leat, which a footbridge near
the tor will enable him to cross. Straight on to the Moreton road,
and then northward to Post Bridge, £ m. distant. Thence as in
Route 5 (C).
56 ROUTES 19 to 21. LYDFORD TO ASHBURTON, Etc.
R. 19. — To Ashburton via Two Bridges, S.E. by E. Hill Bridge,
White Barrow, Lich Path, The Cowsic, Two Bridges. Thence as in
R. 5 (A) to Ouldsbroom Cross, and thence as in R. 6 (A), 24 m.
Reverse, R. 51.
[For description of objects passed refer to Exs. 10, 5, 42, 41.]
Follow the directions given in R. 1 8 to reach the Lich Path. When
£ m. or so beyond the Prison Leat bridge, leave the Lich Path, and
strike R., the course being about S.E. Soon the Cowsic will be reached,
and this must be followed downwards, as in Ex. 5 , to the road. Turn L.
Two Bridges is near by. From that point see as above indicated.
R. 20. — To Brent, Ivybridge, and Cornwood via Hill Bridge and
Princetown, S.E. round to S.S.E. Hill Bridge, White Tor, Mis Tor,
Rundle Stone, Princetown. Thence as in R. 7. Brent, 23 m. ; Ivy-
bridge, 23^ m. ; Cornwood, 20^ m. Reverse, R. 62.
[Objects passed are described thus : Between Lydford and Prince-
town in Exs. 10, 9, 6 ; from. Princetown to the Plym in Exs. 2, 3, 37 ; from
the Plym to Red Lake in Exs. 36, 43, 33 ; acd from Red Lake to Shipley
Moor Gate in Ex. 30. The route to Ivybridge includes the above to
Ex. 36, and 33, 32. The Cornwood route includes those to Ex. 36.]
To Hill Bridge as in S. Ex. 26. Thence up Church Lane and turn
R. On for about J m., when some steps in the hedge will be seen L.
(These are noticed in R. 2). Enter the field by these, and follow the
path running up across it to the hedge bordering on the common,
where are other steps. Pass up over the common to White Tor (Ex. 8)
S.E. by E., and distant i m. The next point is Mis Tor (Ex. 6), S.E.
by E., and 2 m. away. But the ground above the springs of the Peter
Tavy Brook being rather miry it will be well to keep to the L. of a
direct line in crossing Langstone Moor (Ex. 8). , The menhir will be
noticed eastward of White Tor, and the stone circle (Ex. 8) on the
further side of this common. Near the latter the Walkham is crossed.
The next point is Mis Tor, high above the river. From here the course
is S.E. by S. to Rundle Stone, over i£ m. distant. The wall of the
New Forest enclosure (Ex. 5, 6) is on the L. of the path. From Rundle
Stone to Princetown see R. 15.
[If the state of the weather is such as to render the crossing of the
Walkham impossible it will be necessary to go by way of Merivale
Bridge (Ex. i). From White Tor the course is S.E. to the end of the
Wedlake enclosures. These are then kept on the R., the course being
S. by W., under Roose Tor, which is L., and direct to Great Staple Tor.
Here the path running from Peter Tavy to Merivale (T. 14) will be
struck, and must be followed L. over the ridge to the high road.
Merivale Bridge is just below. The route from that place to Prince-
town will be found in R. 15.]
The route from Princetown to Brent and Ivybridge is given in
Part I. See R. 7.
R. 21. — To Plympton and Shaugh, S. by E. By Road. First
point Warren's Cross, thence as in R. 13. Plympton, 2i| m. ; Shaugh,
17 m. ; Cornwood, 20^ m. Reverse, R. 69.
[Objects are noticed in Exs. 10, 9, 8, 7, 40, 39, 38, 35.]
From Lydford village by Skit Steps (Ex. 10) to the road below
Beardon. Turn S. to Watervale and Black Down, and follow the
road over it. Pass through the village of Black Down, and by Lane
Head (Ex. 9) to Wringworthy Hill — high road the whole of the way.
C. R. 5. LYDFORD TO CRANMERE. 57
[From the Manor Hotel the road over the down may be reached by the
Lydford Path (T. 23), passing up from the S.W.R. cottages towards
Gibbet Hill, but leaving that a little to the R.] At the bottom of
Wringworthy Hill turn L. opposite to the second milestone from
Tavistock. Cross Harford Bridge and turn R., and keep straight up
Batridge Hill, with the farm of Radge (mentioned as Raddyche in an
account of the forester of the West Bailiwick of the forest, in 1502) on
the R. About i^ m. from the bridge Moor Shop (R. i, Ex. 8) is reached.
Straight on down the hill for rather over £ m. to Penny-come-quick.
Then up the hill with Whitchurch Down on the R. to Warren's Cross,
where the road from Tavistock comes in from R. From this point
the way is described in R. 13.
R. 22. — To Princetown, S.E. by S. to Rundle Stone, 1 1 m. Re-
verse, R. 2. This route is the same as the first part of R. 20, q.v.
[Objects noticed in Exs. 10, 9, 6.]
R. 23.— To Tavistock, S.W. by S. By Road, 8 m. Reverse,
R. 9.
[Objects noticed in Exs. 10, 9.]
To the bottom of Wringworthy Hill as in R. 21. Thence straight
on by the high road, 2 m. further, to the town. An alternative route
is by the road from the Manor Hotel past the Herring Arms, as in
S. Ex. 25. Leave Brent Tor L. and follow the high road past Pitland
Corner to the town.
ROUTES TO CRANMERE.
For notice of the pool see Part III.
C. R. 5.— From LYDFORD, 5$ m. from the Dartmoor Inn, and
BRENT TOR, 8£ m. (Mary Tavy visitors will join by striking R.
into the Dartmoor Path, T. 21, beyond the fifth milestone from
Tavistock, and following it to the Rattle Brook, or by reaching that
stream via Lane End and Tavy Cleave, Ex. n. But this cannot be
done during rifle practice at the camp. The Dartmoor Path is also
followed to the Rattle Brook by Brent Tor visitors). From the Dart-
moor Inn to the High Down stepping stones, reached by keeping L.
by the wall on gaining the down ; thence between Bra Tor, with the
cross R. and Arms Tor L., to the top of the ridge, and down to the
Rattle Brook with Chat Tor R., the course from the steps being E.
(This stream may also be reached by way of Wheal Mary Emma Steps,
when Bra Tor is kept L.) This course is continued over Amicombe
Hill (referred to in 1 346 as the Preda de Aunnacombe) to Great Kneeset,
nearly 2 m. from the brook. Keep L. of Kneeset when approaching it ;
it rises like a peak (Ex. 14). From that point, which is reached soon
after crossing the head waters of the Amicombe, Cranmere is i m. E.,
58 C. R 6, 7. Brides to we and Sour ton to Cranmere.
Newtake being seen against the sky beyond it. But a direct course
must not be followed, as such would lead the rambler over broken
ground. Keep R. of an E. line and cross Kneeset Pan. When the
ground rises a little the line described in C. R. ic will be reached.
Turn a little L., keeping the fen close on the R.
Another plan is to leave Great Kneeset on the R., and bear N.E.
from the head of the Amicombe towards the West Ockment, which
must be kept L. Continue N.E. and the stream will be struck at the
foot of Jackman's Bottom, which is on the L. bank. Follow the stream
upward. At the confluence above the stream coming from the L. in
ascending is a tributary from Vergyland Combe. At the next con-
fluence the tiny stream from the R. is a tributary. The source of the
Ockment is just above this, and close to the pool. A little mining
building will be passed on the way.
C. R. 6.— From BRIDESTOWE, 5* m. from the Fox and Hounds.
The road by the side of the Fox and Hounds is followed to Noddon
Gate (Ex. 13), and the Lyd crossed at Noddon Steps. The way then
lies up the hill with Arms Tor L-, and from the crest of the ridge the route
is the same as C. R. 5, as also is the return.
C. R. 7.— From SOURTON, 6 m. The pool may be reached
from this place by way of Kitty Tor, T. 30, 31, 32, from which Great
Kneeset is about i£ m. S.E. by E. Thence as in C. R. 5. Another
way is by the West Ockment valley, passing under Branscombe's
Loaf, and striking the river opposite to Black Tor Copse. This is then
followed to Sandy Ford, where it must be crossed. From this point
C. R. 8 a gives the way. If the stream cannot be crossed at the ford it
should be followed up to where Brim Brook (Ex. 14) conies into it
from the N., above which no difficulty in gaining the R. bank will be
experienced. Thence C. R. 8a.
RETURN ROUTES. To LYDFORD. W. by S., £ m. along the low
ridge, keeping close to the fen on the L. Then strike W. by N. across
Kneeset Pan towards R. of Great Kneeset. On passing summit bear
•W. by S. for over •£ m. to the springs of the Amicombe, and thence W.
across Amicombe Hill to the Rattle Brook, which should be reached
£ m. S. of Links Tor. In ascending the ridge W. of the Rattle Brook
keep Chat Tor L.
To SOURTON. From Great Kneeset to the springs of the Ami-
combe, as above. Thence N.W. to Kitty Tor, about i m. Then by
the peat track to Sourton Tors. See T. "30, 31, 32, in Part V.
DISTANCES TO OK E HAMPTON. 59
OKEHAMPTON DISTRICT.
DISTANCES. BY ROAD : ASHBURTON, via Dartmoor Inn,
Black Down, Lane Head, Harford Bridge, Moor Shop, and Two Bridges,
35 m. Via Sticklepath, Throwleigh, Chagford, Beetor Cross, Swine
Down Gate, Hemsworthy Gate, and Welstor Cross, 23 m. — BEL-
STONE, 3* m.— BERRY DOWN (for Scorhill), via Sticklepath,
Payne's Bridge, Moortown, and Creber Pound, 8£ m. — BOVEY
TRACEY, via Sticklepath, Whiddon Down, Sandy Park, and More-
ton, 20 m. — BRENT TOR VILLAGE, via Lydford, 13 m.
BUCKFASTLEIGH, via Two Bridges (vide Ashburton supra),
Hexworthy, and Holne, 34^- m. Via Welstor Cross (vide Ashburton
supra), 25 m.— CHAGFORD, via Sticklepath and Throwleigh, io£ m. —
CORNWOOD, via Moor Shop (vide Ashburton supra), Warren's Cross,
Huckworthy Bridge, Dousland, and Cadaford Bridge, 28^ m. — DA RT-
MEET, via Two Bridges (vide Ashburton supra), 26J m. — DART-
MOOR INN, LYDFORD, 8£ m.— DOUSLAND (vide Ashburton and
Cornwood supra), 20 m..— DREW STEIGN TON , via Sticklepath and
Whiddon Down, io£ m. To the dolmen, 8f m. — EXETER, via Stickle-
path and Whiddon Down, 22 m. — FOX AND HOUNDS, for
BRIDESTOWE STATION, -j\ m. — GIDLEIGH, via Sticklepath,
Payne's Bridge, and Throwleigh, 84- m. Via Payne's Bridge and
Ensworthy, about the same.— HEXWORTHY, via Two Bridges (vide
Ashburton supra), 27 m. — HILL BRIDGE, via Black Down, Lane
Head, and Horndon, 16^ m. — HOLNE, 3^ m. short of Buckfastleigh,
via Hexworthy, q.v. — IVYBRIDGE, 3 m. beyond Cornwood, q.v. —
LANE END, for TA VY CLEAVE, via Lane Head and Horndon.
j<3£ m.— LYDFORD, 9 m.— MARY TAVY, via Black Down and
Lane Head, 13 m.—MELDON HAMLET, 3 m. — MERIVALE
BRIDGE, via Moor Shop (vide Ashburton supra), 18 m. — MOOR
GATE, OKEHAMPTON PARK, i* m.— MOOR SHOP (2 m. from
Tavistock ; R. i, 15), 15^ m. — MORETON, via Whiddon Down (vide
Bovey supra), 13^ m..— PETER TAVY, via Black Down and Harford
Bridge, 15 m. — PLYMOUTH, via Tavistock, 30 in.— PLYMPTON,
via Cadaford Bridge (vide Cornwood supra), and Niel Gate, 29^ m. —
POST BRIDGE, via Throwleigh and Chagford, q.v., ij\~ m.^
PRINCETOWN, via Moor Shop (vide Ashburton supra), 2\\ m. —
SOURTON, 5 m.— SOUTH BRENT, 5 m. beyond Buckfastleigh, via
Welstor Cross, q.v. ; or 5 4- m. beyond Ivybridge via Cornwood, q.v. —
SOUTH TAWTON, 4^" m.— SOUTH ZEAL, 44 m.— STICKLE-
PATH, 3 1 m.— TAVISTOCK, 16 m.— TAVY CLEAVE (vide Lane
End, and Ex. 1 1 ).— THROWLEIGH, 6f m.— TWO BRIDGES, via Moor
Shop (vide Ashburton supra), 2i£ m.— WARREN HOUSE INN, 2 m.
60 OKEHAMPTON DISTRICT.
short of Post Bridge. q.v.—WHIDDON DOWN, 7 m. — WIDECOMBE,
via Chagford, q.v., Beetor Cross, Heytree Down, and Natsworthy,
IQ£ m. — YELVERTON, via Moor Shop (vide Ashburton supra), and
Plaster Down, 20^ m. ; via Tavistock, 21 m.
BY RAIL: EXETER (L.S.W.), 26 m. ; LYDFORD (L.S.W.). 10
m. ; PLYMOUTH (L.S.W. direct), 37 m. ; PRINCETOWN (L.S.W.
to Tavistock, thence by G.W.). 33J m. ; TAVISTOCK (L.S.W.), 17-^
m. ; YELVERTON (L.S.W. to Tavistock, thence by G.W.), 23^ m.
Important Points and Landmarks.
Cosdon — HighWilles — Moor Gate — Sandy Ford (Ockment) — White
Moor Stone. Places of Interest. Belstone Cleave, and the West Cleave
— Black Tor Copse — Branscombe's Loaf (Lydford District)— East Hill
Camp — Fitz's Well — Halstock Woods — Island of Rocks — Okehampton
Castle — Raybarrow Pool — Taw Marsh — Yes Tor. Prehistoric A ntiquities.
The Cemetery : kists and stone rows on South Tawton Common —
Clannaborough Down : hut circles and reaves — Cosdon : cairns and
other remains — Hound Tor : stone circle — The Nine Stones : circle
near Belstone — Small Brook : pounds and hut circles. Mining
Remains. Brim Brook : tinners' huts — New Bridge : stream works —
Skit Bottom : stream works, and on the Taw above Steeperton Hole
and at Taw Marsh.
Other important points in the more remote parts of Northern
Dartmoor are as follows. They are passed on the routes.
Bear Down Man ; menhir close to Devil's Tor, a short dis-
tance from the head of the Cowsic, and to the eastward of that
stream. — Broad Marsh ; on the East Dart, below the point where
the river bends to the south-east two miles from its source. —
Cranmere ; a hollow on the fen near the sources of the East
Dart, West Ockment, and Taw, formerly a pool. [See Cranmere
Routes.] — East Dart Head; the source of the East Dart, about two
miles N.N.E. of the summit of Cut Hill. — Fur Tor ; a fine tor
overlooking the valley of the Upper Tavy and the Amicombe, four
miles N.N.E. of Great Mis Tor, and four miles S. by E. of High Willes.
— The Guide Stones, Cut Hill ; two slabs marking the path known as
Cut Lane, q. v. ; they are not far from the summit of the hill, and on
its northern slope. — Great Kneeset ; a conspicuous hill above the West
Ockment, 2*- miles E. by S. of Great Links Tor ; the latter is situated
on the commons belonging to Bridestowe and Sourton. — Kitty Tor ;
a pile at the northern end of Amicombe Hill ; tracks lead to it from
Prewley Moor, Sourton, and Southerly. — Newtake ; a hill eastward of
Cranmere Pool ; on some maps it is erroneously shown as Newlake. —
Red Lake Hill Foot ; the confluence of the Tavy and the Amicombe.-^
Sandy Ford ; a ford on the West Ockment, on the forest boundary
OKEHAMPTON CASTLE. 61
line. — Tavy Hole ; the hollow down which the Tavy runs just above
where it receives Outer Red Lake. — Travellers' Ford ; crossing-place
of the Lich Path, q.v., on the Cowsic, rather over a mile from its source.
— Walkham Head ; the source of the Walkham, but the name is often
applied to that part of the moor lying round it, the highest point of
which, on the E., attains an elevation of 1,800 feet. — West Dart Head ;
the source of the West Dart, £ mile S.S.E. of the summit of Cut Hill ;
| mile E.S.E. of Tavy Head ; and i mile W.S.W. of Broad Marsh, on
the East Dart. — White Horse Gate ; a gate in the wall of a newtake
belonging to Teign Head, opening on to White Horse Hill, in the
neighbourhood of East Dart Head.
The manor of Ochmentune, the present Okehampton, was bestowed,
among others, upon Baldwin de Brionys, by the Conqueror. The
statement has been made that this Baldwin also bore the name of De
Redvers, and was created Earl of Devon. But Baldwin de Redvers
was quite a different person, and did not live until later, nor was the
earldom of Devon created by William. An extensive chase belonged
to the barony of Okehampton, which was a possession of the De
Redvers in the thirteenth century (Ex. 6), and in the midst of this
De Brionys is said to have built a castle, but nothing now remains of it.
The ruin near the town, which probably stands on its site, is of a later
period. William of Worcester states that it was erected by Thomas
Courtenay, whose death took place in 1458, but any work that this
earl may have done must have been in the nature of repairs, since it is
evident that the building is earlier than his time. Some parts of the
keep, which is certainly older than the rest of the edifice, have been
thought to be late Norman. Among the broken walls the situation of
a number of apartments can still be traced, but opinions are divided
as to what they originally were. About one, however, there can be no
mistake. It is a portion of the chapel, in which are the remains of
three very good windows. On a stone by the side of the piscina is an
inscription — Hie V fuit captivus belli, 1 809 — which is supposed
to be the work of one of the French prisoners of war who were quartered
here in the early part of the nineteenth century.
The neighbourhood of Okehampton is not deficient in mineral
wealth. At the entrance to the Meldon Gorge, just above the viaduct,
are remains of quarrying. A vein of granulite was discovered here
many years ago, which was used in the making of a certain kind of
glass, and for other purposes. [100 Years, Chap. III.] There is also
a deep quarry pit filled with water above the left bank of the Ockment.
The locality is now the scene of other operations, sienite being produced
here. From the point of view of the picturesque the defacing of this
romantic valley is lamentable, but the consoling element is that such
ventures give employment to labour. Fortunately the workings do
not extend far up the valley.
There are no remains of a prehistoric time on the commons of
Okehampton that call for any particular notice, though a few exist to
show that man was here in a ruder age. Flint flakes have been picked
up, and a stone hammer was also found in the neighbourhood a few
years ago. It was of a kind of rough, hard, grit sandstone, and much
weather-worn. But if the commons lack something from an anti-
quarian point of view, the visitor will quickly discover that they are
richly endowed in other respects.
62 ARTILLERY CAMP.
For a considerable time a permanent Artillery Camp has been
formed in Okehampton Park, and gun practice takes place during each
summer on the common, the targets being placed some distance out
upon the forest. From the standpoint of the Dartmoor rambler
this is disastrous. Firing commences on the ranges at the beginning
of May, and continues until about the end of September, so that for
the five months that the moor is at its best he finds himself debarred
from visiting a great part of it, except at certain hours, and on Satur-
days. And not only is this so, but the north quarter of the forest is
robbed of what constitutes one of Dartmoor's greatest charms, its
silence and its solitude. The area over which the firing takes place is
very large, and the zone is marked at various points by danger boards.
There is one on the Sourton Tors ; another near Kitty Tor ; one on Great
Kneeset ; on the fen near Cranmere ; on Newtake Hill ; on Steeperton ;
and on Watchet Hill, close to Belstone village. Boards are also placed
on the roads leading to the dangerous area, and they all bear this
notice :
" DANGER.
" When the Artillery are firing a Flag will be hoisted on Yes
Tor ; it is then dangerous to proceed in the direction towards which
this board points. It is dangerous to handle shell found on the
moor."
Further notice is also issued as follows :
" A Red Danger Flag will be hoisted on Yes Tor every morn-
ing when firing is to take place, and will be kept flying until firing
ceases for the day. While this flag is flying it is dangerous to
proceed within the firing zone.
" Flags are hoisted on Watchet Hill in order to inform the
Belstone inhabitants which range or ranges are to be used, viz. : —
" A Red Flag denotes No. i Range ; a White Flag No. 2
Range ; a Blue Flag No. 3, or the Belstone Range ; a combination
of any of these flags indicates the particular ranges to be used
during the day.
" When firing is going to take place a Red Flag is also hoisted
on the brow of the hill near Fitz's Well, for the special information
of the inhabitants of Okehampton and of tourists arriving at the
Railway Station.
" No firing takes place on Sunday, and when it can be avoided,
none on Saturday. Firing is only carried out on Saturday when
there has been misty or excessive wet weather during the week.
[No firing on Bank Holidays.]
"When there is to be no firing on Saturday notices to that
effect will be sent to, and posted up in, the following Post Offices
on Friday afternoon : — Okehampton, Bridestowe, I/ydford, Chag-
ford, Princetown, and Belstone.
" Notices stating whether firing is going to be carried out on
Saturday or not are also inserted every Saturday morning in the
following Newspapers : — Western Morning News, Western Daily
Mercury. Western Independent, Western Daily Times, and Devon
and Exeter Daily Gazette."
All cattle are driven off the ranges early in the day when firing is
to take place, the moormen being specially paid for this work by the
OKEHAMPTON TO BELSTONE. 63
War Office. Compensation is also paid to the commoners. The firing
usually ceases in the early part of the afternoon.
The military roads in the vicinity of the Camp will be found of
much service by the rambler.
Excursions from Okehampton.
Tracks in the vicinity, Nos. 33 to 42. [The district described in
these excursions is bounded on the W. by the valley of the West Ock-
ment ; on the south by an imaginary line drawn from Great Kneeset
and Lints Tor to the sources of Brim Brook and the Blackaven, thence
across Ockment Hill to Steeperton Tor on the Taw, and thence by
Hound Tor and Kennon Hill to Shilstone Tor on the verge of Throw-
leigh Common. The district to the S. of this line between the West
Ockment and the Taw is noticed in the Cranmere Routes.]
As the Okehampton Excursions are also intended for Belstone
visitors, and as that village is made the starting-point for some of
them, it will perhaps be well that we should briefly describe the routes
between the two places before setting out on our rambles.
OKEHAMPTON TO BELSTONE. BY ROAD. The way lies
over the East Bridge and up the Bartons Hill. We then take the
second turning R. and follow the lane to the railway arch near the
Fatherford Viaduct. We pass under the line at the arch, shortly
afterwards reaching East Lake, where the road runs up the hill R.
Belstone is about i m. distant ; on the way one turning L. is passed,
and shortly after another on the R.
By Path to Fatherford Viaduct from the Station, Immediately
opposite the booking-office entrance a narrow path runs down the bank
to another, and wider one. This, which is part of an old tram-way, we
follow eastward to the viaduct. The side of the hill along which the
path is conducted is wooded. Across the valley is Ball Hill, its great
rounded form presenting a charming picture when the furze, with
which it is covered, is in bloom. We cross the East Ockment where
it flows under the viaduct at a footbridge. A short distance up the
lane is the railway arch mentioned above, where we turn towards
East Lake.
By Halstock and Chapel Ford (T. 36). Our first point is the gate
of East Hill, near Fitz's Well, on the brow of the hill, above the railway
station, and to this there are two roads. One is that which leads from
the town towards the station. Just before the latter is reached it
passes under the railway and on to the common, up which it winds to
meet the other. The latter is now the camp road, and branches R.
from the station road near the foot of the hill. A short distance above
the junction L. in ascending, the corner of the wall of East Down is
passed, and here a track runs L. to the gate referred to, and which is
only a few score yards away. (Fitz's Well, noticed in Ex. 15, is on the
R.) Passing through the gate we follow the road, which runs down
the side of East Hill, to the Moor Brook. (The ancient encampment
64 OKEHAMPTON DISTRICT.
on East Down is noticed in S. Ex. 40). A bridge, built by the tenant
at Halstock, now crosses the brook, before which there was a ford
here, with a single stone clapper for foot passengers. The clapper is
still in its place, but is hidden beneath the soil placed upon it to elevate
the roadway. Some years ago I took the measurements of this stone
and found it to be n feet in length, and i foot thick. It was wider
at one end than at the other, but about the centre its width was 2^
feet. A short distance beyond the bridge we pass Halstock farmhouse,
and make our way through the yard. At the further end of this a
track runs S. by the side of a field called Chapel Lands to Halstock
Down, reaching it at a point known as Halstock Corner. But instead
of following this track we turn L. into the field named, our path lying
across it, and close to its northern edge. At the point where the track
leaves the farm-yard are the remains of some low walls, much over-
grown, and close by, in the corner of the field, are the vestiges of an
enclosure. It is traditionally reported that Halstock was once a
settlement of considerable size, its inhabitants numbering several
hundred, and these ruined walls were formerly pointed out as marking
a part of its site. The name of the field to which we have referred
commemorates the ancient sanctuary referred to in the Forest Per-
ambulation of 1240 as St. Michael's Chapel of Halstock. Little more,
however, than its name now remains. Its site is marked by some
grass-covered banks, on which grow two storm-stricken thorns, but
there are no traces of masonry. The Rev. H. G. Pothergill, a former
Rector of Belstone, left some manuscript notes to a work written
about 1839, by William Bridges, entitled, Some Account of the Barony
and Town of Okehampton, and these were printed in a new edition
published in 1889. These notes contain some references to the chapel,
of which Mr. Fothergill took measurements. He found it to be nine
paces in length and four in width on the inside, and says it was enclosed
in a sort of court measuring 23 paces by 13, at the western end of
which were traces of a belfry or vestry. Some years ago I also care-
fully measured it, and found it to be 40 feet long, and 24 feet wide ;
and the court in which it stands 90 feet by 57 feet. The foundations
of what Mr. Fothergill supposed to be those of a belfry, or vestry,
cover a space 30 feet by 25 feet. These are external measurements.
Halstock Chapel, together with the church of Okehampton, belonged
to Cowick Priory, in the parish of St. Thomas-by-Exeter, which at
its foundation was subordinate to the great abbey of Bee, in Normandy.
About the middle of the fifteenth century, on the resignation of the prior,
Henry VI. applied the revenues of the priory to Eton College, but Edward
IV. transferred the gift to the Abbey of Tavistock. The remains of the
chapel are in the S. part of the field, the site being marked by the two
thorns. The view from the chapel is very fine, embracing towards the N.
much that is seen from the brow of the hill near Fitz's Well. Across the
valley eastward is the Belstone range of tors, and beyond that part
of the Moor Brook Valley known as Halstock Cleave (S. Ex. 41) is
seen the beautiful Ashbury Tor, from nowhere beheld to greater
advantage. Close to this are the mounds of the ancient entrenchment
already alluded to (S. Ex. 40).
Passing across Chapel Lands to its N.E. corner, near which we
shall observe three stones curiously placed, we make our way by a
narrow path down through Halstock Wood to Chapel Ford (T. 36);
BELSTONE TO OKEHAMPTON. 65
on the East Ockment, supposed to be identical with that mentioned
in the Perambulation of 1240, and the Survey of 1609. Here are
stepping-stones by which we may cross, although this is not to be
done when the stream is in flood. The track runs up the side of the
hill L. from the ford, and will bring us very near to Cleave Tor
(S. Ex. 41 ), where is a stroll R. Into this we turn, and passing through
a moor gate opening upon a narrow lane shall speedily reach the road
coming up L. from East Lake (see ante), where we turn R. and follow
it direct to Belstone.
BELSTONE TO OKEHAMPTON. (Reverse of the preceding,
q.v., for descriptions). BY ROAD. Old vicarage gate ; straight down
the hill to East Lake ; turn I,, to railway arch ; cross road, and up the
lane to the highway ; turn L. down Bartons Hill to the town.
Path to Station from Fatherford Viaduct. As above to the railway
arch ; then down L. to the viaduct ; cross the Ockment at the foot-
bridge, and follow the path, with the railway above L., to the station.
By Chapel Ford and Halstock (T. 36). Old vicarage gate ; a short
distance beyond turn L. to the common ; leave Cleave Tor on R. ;
descend by the track L. to Chapel Ford ; cross the Ockment ; follow
path R. up through Halstock Wood to Chapel Lands ; cross this to
Halstock Farm and on to the bridge over Moor Brook ; pass up with
wall on L. to gate, outside which the road leads down the hill. Through
the gate in the corner R. for the station ; down L. for the town.
BY ROAD TO STICKLEPATH, WITH BRANCH TO BEL-
STONE. This forms the best carriage road to Belstone, 3^ m. ; Stickle-
path is situated at the foot of Cosdon, on the direct road to Exeter,
and is 3^ m. from the town. We cross the East Bridge and make our
way up the Bartons Hill. One mile from the bridge we pass over the
railway, close to Fatherford farmhouse, which lies L. (The road R.
runs down to Fatherford Viaduct), i J m. further on we reach a small
piece of common known as Tongue End, where a road turns up the
hill R. for Belstone, close to a large parish boundary stone. (This
road branches near the top of the little common ; keep R. for the village,
which is about i m. distant). On the L. as we proceed towards Stickle-
path is Combeshead Farm, well named from its situation, where, it is
said, some Royalist troopers once hid themselves, and cut off the cock's
head, lest his crowing should draw attention to their place of refuge.*
Just beyond this a lane branches L- to Bude Farm, and here is an
ancient stone, having markings on three of its sides. [See Crosses,
Chap. XL, where also the stones at Sticklepath and Belstone are
described.] About £ m. further on Sticklepath is reached.
Reverse. — Pass up the western road by Lady Well, leaving the
school L. ; then Bude Lane is passed R. ; then Combeshead also R. ;
Tongue End ; the railway bridge near Fatherford Farm ; pass down
the Bartons Hill to the town.
FothergilTs Notes to Bridges' Barony and Town of Okehampton*
66 OKEHAMPTON DISTRICT.
Ex. 14. — Mfldon, The Island of Rocks, Black Tor Copse, Sandy
Ford [High Willes, Yes Tor], Lints Tor, Dinger Tor, about 1 1 m. With
Extension to Great Kneeset, about 2\ m. more.
Our road from the town will lead us by the Union House to the
northern slope of Okehampton Park. But if our starting-point be
the station we pass along by the houses facing the railway to Westhill
Villa, where we reach the camp road. Here a gate will give us admit-
tance to the park, and our path will soon effect a junction with the
lower one. As we proceed we have a view of the castle on the further
'side of the river, which flows at the foot of the hill. Parts of the ruin
are hidden by the trees, but the keep is lifted high above them. On
the hill-side across which our way lies are numerous ancient hollies,
some of them being of considerable size. When about 2 m. from the
town we draw near the Ockment, which is spanned by the lofty
Meldon Viaduct. On the further side of the stream the grey rocks of
Burrow Cleave, or Cliff, draped with creeping plants, rise from amid
the trees, and here a track leads up to the hamlet of Meldon (S. Ex. 34).
We here enter Meldon Gorge, which extends from this point to
Vellake Corner. A track runs up the hill L., and after crossing a part
of Black Down, reaches the Redaven (T. 33)* ; but we shall follow the
one on the R. bank of the Ockment (T. 33), leaving it, however, at the
point where the Redaven falls into that stream. On crossing the
affluent the track ascends Longstone Hill L., a name perhaps derived
from a menhir, though none exists there now (cf Longstone, Ex. 7),
but we pass along at its foot. High above the W. bank of the river
is Meldon Down, on which, in 1643, an encounter took place during
a stormy night between the Royalists and the Parliamentarians under
Major James Chudleigh, who was quartered at Okehampton at the
time. Much of the down has probably since been covered with fields.
We shall notice a track running down the side of it to a ford (T. 33),
where also are some stepping-stones called Higher Bowden Steps
(S. Ex. 35). £ m. beyond these we reach a little tributary stream
separating Longstone Hill from Homerton Hill, the great rounded
eminence we now see rising before us. This tributary is sometimes
known as the Homerton Brook, but its true name is the Fishcombe
Water. It has its source in a charming little hollow, where dwarf
oaks grow, high up on the hill. At the point where it falls into the
Ockment are the long deserted workings of Homerton Mine.
Homerton Hill is exceedingly steep, and sweeps down abruptly
to a piece of level ground, around which the river makes a bend. We
do not here follow the course of the latter, but pass along the foot of
the hill, meeting it again further up. The high ground that rises before
us is Corn Ridge, near the summit of which is Branscombe's Loaf
(Ex. 13). As we pass round the base of Homerton we notice a small
* Pronounced Red-a-ven, with the stress on the last syllable.
p Strangers sometimes lay this on the a, which is wrong. The name has
a aothing to do with avon, water. It is really the red fen brook, the
Dartmoor vernacular being responsible for the change of the / into v ,
sn id for the insertion of the a. Another stream in the locality is the
£a .ackaven ; in this name the stress is similarly on the last:syljabje.
EXCURSION 14. THE ISLAND OF ROCKS. 67
stream coming down from the S.W. The point where it falls into the
Ockment is known as Vellake Corner, and forms one of the bounds
between the commons of Okehampton and Sourton. The little Vellake
rises not far below Iron Gates (Ex. 13), and one tiny feeder, dry in
summer, runs into it from Corn Hole (Ex. 13). Here we leave Meldon
Gorge and enter the narrow valley that extends up into the forest,
where the hills on either side rise to a still greater height, and where
the scenery becomes even more wild and grand than that through
which we have just passed. We again welcome the river, which is to
be our companion through the defile, and shall make for ourselves a
path above its eastern bank. Speedily the character of our surround-
ings begins to change, and ere we have advanced many steps we look
upon a picture not surpassed on Dartmoor for a happy mingling of the
stern and rugged with that which is beautiful. Below us, in a wild
glen, is the Island of Rocks [described in Gents, Chap. IV.] thickly
clothed with low trees and bushes, a cascade at its upper end and
another at its lower. Above it is a deep and narrow gorge, down which
the river rushes as through a long, darkened trough. Trees grow on
the steep banks, and the grey granite is partly covered with ivy and
creeping plants. At its head we may make our way on the boulders to
the centre of the stream, and look down through this miniature canyon,
whence comes the never-ceasing roar of the waters.
[Should the visitor desire to cross the Ockment he will find one or
two places either below the Island, or at the head of the gorge, where
ke may do so. A route to the Island via Meldon, and by the L. bank,
is given post, S. Ex. 35.]
On the side of the hill above the L. bank of the Ockment is Shil-
stone Tor, the name being, perhaps, a corruption of shelf stone, or
hanging stone, but not necessarily an artificially placed one. On the
other side of the valley, i.e., the eastern side, but further from us, and
at a much greater elevation, is Black Tor (S. Ex. 36). Viewed from
below the Island of Rocks this tor appears to consist of one pile only,
but from the point we have now reached its triple crown is plainly
seen. Passing upward we shortly reach another small island, but of
a character altogether different from the former, its level surface being
covered with turf and patches of heather. About 100 yards above it
the river falls over a ledge of rocks, forming a fine cascade ; near by
some withies are growing, and on the I,, bank is a huge lump of granite
partially covered with ivy. In our progress up this part of the valley
we shall not fail to be struck with the number of bushes of various
kinds that grow near the river, and above all shall note the presence
of several dwarf oaks. By-and-bye the latter become more numerous,
and then it is seen that an oak wood, similar to Wistman's Wood on
the Dart (Ex. 5), fills part of the valley. It is situated below the triple
tor from which it took its ancient name of Black Torre Beare, now
however, being known as Black Tor Copse. Documentary evidence
exists snowing that this wood was once very much more extensive
than at present ; it probably stretched from the Island of Rocks into
the forest. There is mention of it by the jurors of the 1609 Survey,
and also in the Lydford Court Rolls of the time of Elizabeth. On the
W. bank of the Ockment, above the small hollow opposite to which
the upper island referred to is situated, is another and a larger one.
named Hawks' Hollow. It forms a kind of huge amphitheatre, above
68 OKEHAMPTON DISTRICT.
which are the masses of granite called the Slipper Stones (Ex. 13).
Its lower part is covered with some old tin workings known as
Crocker's Pits.
As we make our way up the valley a hill crowned with rocks that
have very much the appearance of a tower comes into view at the head
of it. This is Lints Tor, and although it rises to a height of 1,605 feet,
it looks almost low against the hills on either side. Passing the ancient
wood, and finding for ourselves a path along the foot of the steep
declivity under Forsland Ledge (Ex. 15), we reach Sandy Ford, to
which the forest boundary line comes down from Stinka Tor (Ex. 13),
and which is named as one of the bondmarks.
Here a boundary stone will be noticed ; it marks the line which is
drawn up the hill N.E., between the forest and Okehampton Common.
There is abundant evidence that this line formerly ran from the ford
to High Willes, and thence to Mil Tor and Row Tor (see Perambulation
in the Terms section), and consequently much that is now reckoned
as forming part of the common was once within the bounds of the
royal hunting-ground.
[High Willes and Yes Tor may be ascended from Sandy Ford, but
the climb is a long one. The first named height is nearly a mile from
the ford in a N.N.E. direction, and 700 feet above it. These points
are noticed in Ex. 15.]
[Extension to Great Kneeset. About £ m. above Sandy Ford is
Kneeset Foot, where the little tributary referred to in R. 3 comes down
from Broad Ami combe Hole. To the L., or S. of it, is Great Kneeset,
which may be readily reached from the ford by tracing the Ockment
upward, following the R. bank to the first sharp bend, \ m. above the
point where the tributary falls into it. From this bend, where the
course of the Ockment is changed from S.S.W. to N.N.W., the summit
of Kneeset is distant hardly £ m. E.S.E., and here the river must be
crossed. No tor crowns this hill, only a few small rocks nearly on a
level with the ground. It is, however, well worth ascending, as it
commands a fine view of the range capped by Willes (Ex. 15) N.N.W.
to N. and Ockment Hill (Ex. 16) N.E. ; the Cranmere fen and Black
Ridge on the E. and S.E. ; Little Kneeset (Ex. n and C.R. ie>
and Fur Tor (Ex. n) to the S. ; and Amicombe Hill (Ex. 12),
backed by the lofty range of which Great Links Tor (Ex. 12)
is the highest point, on the W. N.E. of the summit of Great
Kneeset is a hollow known as Jackman's Bottom, through which a
tiny feeder trickles to the Ockment. The Kneeset surroundings are
noticed in C.R. 5. The rambler, instead of keeping close to
the river on leaving Sandy Ford for Kneeset, may take Lints
Tor, which rises above its R. bank, on his way. If he does this he
will cross the Ockment about midway between the bend before named,
and another over \ m. above it, called Kneeset Nose, where the river
receives Brim Brook. He will find no difficulty in doing this, Kneeset
being in full view from Lints Tor. It lies S.E. by S., and is about i £ m.
distant. The return from Kneeset may be made either by way of the
lower bend, W.N.W. from the summit, when the Ockment will be
followed downward, or by Kneeset Nose, N. by W., in which case
Brim Brook, which flows from the north, will be followed up nearly
to its source, less than i m., when the rambler will turn up the hilL
L., i m. to Dinger Tor. See S. Ex. 37.]
EXCURSION 15. FITZ'S WELL, OKEHAMPTON PARK. 69
Above Sandy Ford the Lints Tor Brook falls into the Ockment,
and on reaching this point we leave the river and make our way direct
to the tor, which is close at hand L. After having viewed this curious
pile we turn N.E. by N., and pass up the hill to the single mass of rock
known as Dinger Tor, 1,810 feet. (The summit of High Willes is J m.
N. W. by N. See R. 15). Here we are on the line of the ancient track
from Okehampton to Post Bridge (T. 34, 79, 78), that part of it running
out to the tor being still used as already stated (T. 34) for the
conveyance of peat. Near by a number of ties will be seen. The
track, which will be struck a little way beyond the tor, runs northward
between West Mil Tor L., and Row Tor R., and will bring the rambler
to Moor Gate, which opens upon Okehampton Park. This part of it
is noticed the reverse way in Ex. 1 5 . From Moor Gate we follow the
road across the park, taking care not to turn L., and at the distance of
about £ m. shall pass Fitz's Well, which is close to a hedge L. (Ex. 15).
Just below this the road turns abruptly to the L. at a gate. If the
rambler is making his way to the station he will pass through this ;
if to the town, he may either take that way or follow the road down
the hill.
Ex. 15. — Yes Tor, High Willes, Forsland Ledge, Dinger Plain,
West Mil for, Row Tor, about 9| m. To Yes Tor direct (via Redaven
Ford), 4 m.
The route to Fitz's Well, which is our first point, has already been
sketched (Okehampton to Belstone Routes). On reaching the brow
of the hill the old cross that marks the spring will be seen R. For
many years this lay on the ground neglected, but it is now set upon a
mound, built of earth and stone. Tradition says that the cross was
brought from St. Michael's Chapel, at Halstock, but there is probably
no foundation for this. We have already stated that to this well a
story similar to the one related of that on the Blackabrook, near
Princetown, attaches (Ex. 6). This was told to me several years ago
by the late Miss Luxmore, of Okehampton, who was joint owner of the
park, and describes how a man and his wife having lost their way
when riding over this part of the moor, presumably led astray by the
pixies, recovered it on reaching the well, thus justifying the lady's
opinion, previously expressed, that they would only do so on finding
water. (Crosses, Chap. XI.) It is fortunate that when they reached
the pool it was not as it is said to have been in the month of September,
1676, when, in consequence of the dry summer, no water was to be
seen there. In this state it is not infrequently found to-day. Its name
connects it with the Fitz family, to whom the manor of Meldon once
belonged. Like many other wells it probably had miraculous powers
ascribed to it, and was formerly visited by the youths and maidens
of the neighbourhood on the morning of Easter Day.
A short distance beyond the well, at the top of the ascent, a fine
view of the moor suddenly unfolds itself. To the L., in the distance,
is Cosdon, and nearer to us the Belstone range. Halstock Down rises
beyond the confines of the park, not far off ; and to the R. of that, in
succession, Row Tor, West Mil Tor, and Yes Tor are seen ; and still
further R., beyond the camp ground, Black Down. The camp occupies
a considerable portion of this part of the park. There are houses and
bungalows for the officers, huts for the men, and ranges of shelters for
70 OKEHAMPTON DISTRICT.
the horses. There are also a recreation room, cook houses, and
numerous other offices, and when the batteries are here during summer
a very animated scene is presented.
A little further on we leave the camp road, which is marked with
white stones, and branch L,. to Moor Gate, immediately outside which
is a ford, and a footbridge over the Moor Brook. Near by, L., is a
cottage, and across two fields is seen Pudhanger farmhouse. We do
not cross the stream, but turn R. and follow the rough road between
. Row
Tor.
FROM MOOR BROOK, LOOKING S.
it and the park wall, our path now being the track leading to'Dinger
Tor, and which has already been described (T. 34). It will lead us
between Row Tor and West Mil Tor, and may be seen from the point
we have now reached running up the side of the latter. One or two
tracks cross our own, and just beyond Anthony Stile, where the wall
turns away R., a road runs R. over the shoulder of Black Down
(T. 33, S. Ex. 35). But we do not leave the Moor Brook ; we keep it
on the I,., and it will be our companion nearly to its source. Between
Row Tor L., and West Mil Tor R., is Creaber's Hole, through which
Moor Brook runs, and here we shall notice, as we pass upward, some
railings enclosing a small space. It is the place where the water is
taken in for use at the camp. When directly between Row Tor and
Mil Tor the distant hills come into view, and we see away to the L. the
Belstone range with Cosdon to the R. of it. Just here a branch track
crosses the brook and runs towards Row Tor. As we climb the hill
many other heights disclose themselves. First East Mil Tor (Ex. 16)
is seen, very near to us, with Steeperton Tor (Ex. 17) beyond it ; then
shortly after, between these two, the rocks of Wild Tor appear (Ex. 19) ;
a few steps further on Hound Tor (Ex. 17), with Ock Tor (Ex. 17)
below it, become visible to the L. of Steeperton. To the R. of the
latter, and far away, is Newtake, partly hidden by Ockment Hill.
At the head of Moor Brook is a small mire and an old stream work,
and on the E. side of this are the vestiges of another track. But we
leave the stream and the track soon after passing the branch track above
mentioned, and strike R., under West Mil Tor, toward the foot of Yes
Tor, which is now in full view, and marked by a flag-staff on its summit,
our direction being about S.W. On our way we shall pass three piles of
rock S. of West Mil Tor, and forming, as it were, outlying masses of it.
EXCURSION 15. YES TOR. 71
Grossing the Redaven (Ex. 14), here only a small stream, we
commence the ascent of the tor, taking care to keep well to the R.,
in" order- to avoid the great clatter that streams from its south-eastern
side.
1 ' [Yes Tor may also be conveniently reached from Okeharqpton
Park by way of Redaven Ford, which is, indeed, rather the shorter '
route of the two. The track branches R. from the one just described
(see also T. 33) near Anthony Stile, and running up the hill S.W. reaches
a ford on the Redaven (T. 33), the distance from the stile to this point
being i m. From here the rambler may either make straight for the
tor, which is about -J m. S., and more than 700 feet above him, or he
may follow up the stream to Redaven Dip, which is the way sometimes
traversed by peat carts, as a rough track will show. When between
West Mil Tor L., and Yes Tor R., he will leave the stream and ascend
the hill. The distance from the town to the summit is about 4 m.]
The fine pile of rocks of which Yes Tor consists may be easily
ascended ; indeed, on the W. side a path has been made by which it is
possible to ride almost to the top of the tor. On the highest rock is
the staff already referred to, on which the danger flag is hoisted during
the artillery practice. Due W. of the rocks is a large tumulus, and
there are indications of another having existed between the tor and
High Willes ; flint flakes have been found near the tor. As the view
from Willes, \ m. S., which on the moorland side is even more
extensive than that seen beheld this prominent height, is hereafter
described, it is only necessary now to briefly indicate those points
that are not to be seen from it. Much of the in-country over which
the eye ranges from this tor is hidden from the beholder on Willes.
The prospect there is almost entirely a moor one ; from Yes Tor it is
one of wild upland on one side and cultivated country on the other.
The camp, and the roads that have been cut as approaches to it, spoil
the picture presented from this tor when looking towards the north.
These are altogether out of keeping with our surroundings ; they take
from us that sense of loneliness which the absence of man's work
imparts, and in which there is so much charm when wandering on
Dartmoor. The farm lands seen in this direction do not do this to any
extent, for although the cultivator's hand is there visible, his work is
too far away to thrust itself prominently into the picture. Looking
down into the valley of the Ockment W. we see Shilstone Tor, and the
summit of Black Tor (S. Ex. 36) rising over the edge of the common ;
beyond these are Corn Ridge and the Sourton Tors (Ex. 13). We also
get a good view of Homerton Hill and Longstone Hill far down below
us, though seeming to rise to a great height above us as we passed
up through Meldon Gorge (Ex. 14). Beyond this northern verge of
the moor we look over a vast expanse of fields and woodland, with
here and there a cluster of dwellings. Much of North Devon is visible,
and also a great part of North-East Cornwall. Looking into the moor
we see where the lonely Cranmere hides itself, though its situation
can be discerned better from Willes. In a direction S.S.E. by E. the
distant hills will be seen to dip behind a nearer ridge, the second
from us, the first stretching away from our feet (see post). To the
L. of this dip is the pool, which bears S.S.E. from the tor. It might
be considered rather strange that such a prominent object as Yes Tor,
although on the line of the original boundary of the forest, is not
72 OKEHAMPTON DISTRICT.
mentioned in the Perambulation of 1240, or in subsequent Surveys.
But this is to be accounted for by the fact that Willes, which is also
on the line, and is, as we have seen, quite near to it, is named as the
bondmark here. In a note in Bridges' Okehampton, setting forth the
ancient bounds on Dartmoor belonging to that parish, the tor is referred
to as " Eastor, alias Highest Tor."
Descending from this lofty station we shall make our way to High
Willes, which attains an even greater elevation, being indeed, not only
the highest point on Dartmoor, but in England south of The Peak in
Derbyshire.* For many years Yes Tor was popularly supposed to
occupy this position (though the moormen did not hold this opinion),
but the latest Ordnance Survey shows the height of Willes to be 2,039
feet, or 12 feet higher than Yes Tor. They may be said to stand on
the same hill, the dip between them being very slight indeed.
Row Tor. West Mil Tor, Yes Tor, and Willes form a range extend-
ing from Halstock Down, on the N.E., to the West Ockment on the
S.W. The first three are in a line running N.E. and S.W., but Willes
is due S. of Yes Tor. On the N.W. side of this range, that is to say,
on the side near the cultivated lands, is that part of Okehampton
Common comprising Homerton Hill, I,ongtone Hill, and Black Down,
and also Okehampton Park ; on its S.E. side towards the forest, are
Row Tor Ridge and Dinger Plain. Row Tor Ridge, which is very
stony, lies to the S. of the tor so named, and slopes eastward to the
Blackaven ; Dinger Plain, usually called only Dinger, is a continuation
southward of this ridge, but is of much greater extent. Dinger Tor
is placed towards its southern end, and the plain is bounded by the
Blackaven and the head waters of Brim Brook on the east.
High Willes has been thought to have derived its name from Huel,
or Wheal, signifying a mine, but as old workings are invariably found
near streams, that is not very probable. The somewhat similar name,
at least with regard to its latter part, of Brown Willy, a hill in Corn-
wall, has been supposed to be a corruption of Bron, or Bryn, Gwili.
But gwili means winding, or tortuous, as a path or stream, and has no
bearing in the present case. The suggestion has also been made that
the root is perhaps to be found in gwylfa, a watching place, and it
may be that a look-out was once kept upon it for signals. The
name appears in 1532 as Hight Wyll, and in later documents as High
Willows. There is no tor on Willes, only an outcrop of rock, on the
highest part of which is a small tower, said to have been built by the
Ordnance surveyors about a century ago. On the turf near by are
the ruined walls of a little shelter.
Although the view of the moor from Willes is a very wide one, it
is not so extensive as that gained from Cut Hill, and which we have
already described (Ex. n). But we nevertheless look upon a picture
instinct with the spirit of Dartmoor. Incongruous features are absent ;
great stretches of brown heath, with here and there a fantastically
heaped pile of dark rocks, alone are seen. We cannot fail to be
impressed with the silence and the solitude. To the L. as we face
southward, and beyond Yes Tor, is West Mil Tor, behind which Row
* The Peak in Derbyshire, 2,088 feet ; High Willes (the loftiest hill
on Dartmoor), 2,039 feet. The Cumberland hills are much higher :
Skiddaw, 3,022 feet ; Helvellyn, 3,055 feet ; Scaw Fell, 3,229 feet.
EXCURSION 15. HIGH WILLES.
73
Tor hides itself. A little to the R. of these, but further away, is Hal-
stock Down, and still further off Watchet Hill, with the track on its
side (T. 37) plainly visible. R. of this is the Belstone range, with East
Ockment Farm under it N.E. by E. Beyond the range, in a direction
Cosdon.
E.N.E.
E. Mil Tor.
8.E.
FROM HIGH
TJ.N.E., rises Cosdon, the summit of which is exactly 4 m. distant in a
straight line. The rounded form of this hill is well seen from this
point. Immediately beneath it is the south part of the Belstone range,
and in front of that, and near to us, is the tor already spoken of, East
Mil Tor. To the R. of the latter, but further off, E. by N., is Ock
Tor, and beyond that again White Hill, under Cosdon, and Metheral
Hill. R. of this is Little Hound Tor, with Kennon Hill rising behind
it. E. by S. is Steeperton, the fine tor at the head of Taw Plain
(Ex. 17), with the wall crossing the ridge between the Taw and the
East Ockment (Ex. 16), and which is continued to the Blackaven.
The combe from which the East Ockment issues will be noticed to
the R. of East Mil Tor, which is covered from end to end with granite,
and between it and Steeperton. E.S.E., and 3 m. away, is Wild Tor,
with Watern Tor peeping over the ridge to the R. of it. In the fore-
ground, and not 200 feet below us, is Dinger Plain, over the whole
extent of which we can look. The little sheet of water that we see
near the source of the Redaven is Dinger Pool, or as it is sometimes
called, the Pixies' Pool. Beyond the plain, southward, Ockment Hill
rolls away to the dusky ridge that rises against the sky, its summit
being seen to the R. of Watern Tor. R. of Ockment Hill is Newtake,
with the higher part of White Horse Hill. To the R. of Newtake is
Cranmere, which bears S.E. by S., and is 2% m. off in a direct line.
The site of the pool may be discovered in the same manner as from
Yes Tor, but is more readily located from this hill. We look in a
direction about vS.S.E., where a distant hill (which is a part of Cut Hill)
is seen to dip behind Black Hill, and to the ~L,, of this dip, but much
nearer to us, is the pool. Its exact situation is marked by a dark cleft
in the side of the ridge. This is the hollow in which the \Vest Ockment
rises, and the pool is at its head. (See Routes to Cranmere). R. of
the pool is Black Ridge, in a line with Dinger Tor, the latter being
only -|- m. distant. S. of S.S.E. is Great Kneeset, 2 m. off, with Cut
Hill the same distance beyond it, and to the R. of the latter Fur Tor,
74 OKEHAMPTON DISTRICT.
of which we have here a very fine view Then comes the high ground
near the source of the Cowsic and Walkham Head, stretching away in
a long range towards the W., behind which Great Mis Tor lifts up his
rock} crown in a direction W. of S., and 8 m. away. There is a dip
where the western side of -huge Standon drops to the unseen Tavy.
Hangingstone X
Hill. Cramnere
8.K Dinger Tor. 8. by E.
FROM HIGH WII,I,ES.
and then White Tor rises S.S.W. Further R.( and looking across the
N. end of Amicombe, we see the Dunnagoat Tors, with Great Links
Tor rising high above them, the most prominent of all the rock piles
in the view. It is about 2i m. to the S.W. In front of Great Links
and only i£ m. distant, is" Kitty Tor. To the R. is Hunt Tor and
Stinka Tor, the latter overlooking the valley of the Ockment. To the
R. on the brow of the hill are the Slipper Stones, with Corn Ridge
beyond, and still further away in the same direction the Sourton Tors.1
Beyond these there is a grand stretch of distant in-country, which
completes the view.
And now we move onward to a point whence another picture is
presented, which, if it does not embrace such a wide extent of country,
certainly possesses features which that seen from Willes cannot show.
We shall make our way to Forsland Ledge, or, as one document gives
it, Fosborne Ledge, though this name is never heard, a small pile of
rocks $ m. S.W. of Willes, and about 200 feet below it. The beholder
looks from it down into the gorge of the Ockment, and upon a picture
that has not many equals on the moor. The range of hills from New-
take by Black Ridge, Cut Hill, and Fur Tor to Great Mis Tor, bounds
the view to the S. We look into the recesses of the moor around
Cranmere, and upon the two Kneesets. Across the valley is Amicombe,
and beyond it Great Links Tor, which from no other point presents a
finer appearance. Away to the R. are the rocks of Black Tor (S. Ex. 36)
at the foot of which is seen the shelter from which the artillery practice
is watched, with the in-country over the down beyond. But the
features that will arrest the attention are Lints Tor, which came into
view shortly after we left Willes, and the winding Ockment far down
below. The resemblance of the tor to a castle has been already
mentioned (Ex. 14), and the rambler will not fail to be struck with it
here. The rocks crown a rounded hill, covered with grass, on which
are long lines of heather. Below it on the W. the Ockment flows, the
EXCURSION 15. WEST MIL TOR. 75-,
part of the stream seen being that between Kneeset Foot and Sandy
Ford (Ex. 14). In several parts of Dartmoor are tors bearing a resem-
blance to a building, or to ruins, but nowhere is the illusion so perfect
as here. To the R. of the tor Kneeset Foot is seen, with the pass
sailed Broad Amicombe Hole above it (R. 3). Great Kneeset is if m.
beyond the tor ; Little Kneeset is a little to the R. of this, and I m.
further away. Forsland Ledge is about 550 feet above the river ; the
hill on which it is placed is very steep, and plentifully strewn witb
granite. Quite close to it is a small tumulus, within which is what
appears to be a ruined kistvaen.
Leaving Forsland Ledge we shall make our way back towards
Willes, the summit of which we keep L., and passing over the shoulder
of the hill N.E. by E., shall descend to the head of the Redaven, with
Dinger Plain R. This little stream runs for some distance through a
shallow gully clothed with turf, where we shall find good ground.
Our path will lie along the R. bank, and we shall be led through Redaven
Dip, between Yes Tor L-, and West Mil Tor R., to Redaven Ford, 500
feet below its source. At the ford we shall take the track R. (T. 33, 34),
which will lead us direct to Moor Gate, i£ m. distant, from which the
road to the town is described in Ex. 14.
Instead of returning by way of Redaven Dip the visitor may pass
over West Mil Tor and Row Tor to the road leading to Moor Gate.
He will leave the Redaven at the bend under Yes Tor, about •£ m.
from its source, and striking N. by E. will soon reach the first-named
group of rocks, which is in full view from the bank of the little stream.
The three outlying masses of which we have already spoken will be
passed on the way. West Mil Tor is certainly worth a visit ; the
largest pile, which forms the southern part of the tor, is of a conical
form, and rather striking. In the report of the commissioners relative
to the boundaries of the Chase of Okehampton, in 1532, when it be-
longed to Henry, Marquis of Exeter, the tor is mentioned as " Milltor,"
but in the description of the bounds of the common lands of Okehampton
as at one time recognized, and to which reference has been made, it
appears as " Middle Tor, alias Miltor." From this it seems probable
that the name is a corruption of middle, a word which correctly de-
scribes the situation of the tor with regard to its two companions,
and that it has nothing to do with the Celtic melyn, yellow, as has been
suggested. If this be correct another instance is supplied of a tor
bearing a comparatively modern name. Under the rocks is a little
shed like that at Black Tor, from which the artillery practice can be
safely watched, and its results noted. Dropping down into the hollow
on the N.E., and crossing the Moor Brook, the visitor will ascend Row
Tor, \ m. distant. On the stony Row Tor Ridge the wooden figures
forming the targets for the artillery will often be seen. The guns>
which are placed on Halstock Down, sweep this ridge and Dinger
Plain. From Row Tor the visitor will pass down the hill N. to a track
(T. 35) £ m., which he will follow for a short distance to the road leading
N. to Moor Gate, which is less than i m. from the tor.
[The road to the town is described in Ex. 14.]
OKEHAMPTON DISTRICT.
Ex. r6. — The Blackaven, East Mil Tor. Ockment Hill, The East
Ockment, Crovcnor Steps, Halstock Down, about 1 1 m., including summit
of Ockment Hill, and return by Crovenor Steps and Moor Gate.
Our way will first take us to Moor Gate (Ex. 15), where, instead
of turning R. as in going to Yes Tor, we shall cross the Moor Brook,
and follow the road up the hill southward with the Pudhanger enclosures
on our L. •£ m. from the brook, and soon after passing a large sand-
pit, we shall strike into a track (T. 35) R., just under Row Tor (Ex. 15).
Ere we have gone far we shall notice by the side of it one of the many
objects of a similar character to be seen on the moor ; it is a granite
trough having two compartments, one of which is broken, a flaw having
probably discovered itself while it was being cut. Below us on the L.
is Row Tor Combe, where there is a crossing-place on the Blackaven,
known as Middle Ford. As we proceed we have a fine view of East
Mil Tor, which rises boldly in front of us. Away to the L- is seen the
Belstone range, with the huge Cosdon behind ; also Steeperton Tor,
with Ock Tor to the L. of it, the latter, though a small pile, here show-
ing itself to great advantage. Nearer to us the little Hart Tor is seen,
on the common at the corner of the enclosure to which it gives name.
J ust i i m. from the point where our track leaves the road it reaches
the Blackaven, which is here crossed by a clapper, known as New
Bridge. Though not quite what its name would suggest, the structure
nevertheless belongs to a comparatively recent period. At one time
I imagined that it might have had some connection with the extensive
Streamwork close by ; that peat was perhaps brought over it for use
there. But I now believe it to have been erected at the beginning of
the nineteenth century. On the bank of the Blackaven a ruined wall
will be seen extending both up and down the stream, and which marks
an attempt to enclose a portion of the forest. Several years ago I
learnt in the neighbourhood, on good authority, that the bridge was
erected at the same time as the wall, and the latter is not ancient, as a
farmer, who had lived on the verge of the common all his life, once told
me that he remembered men who had helped to build it. It was a part
of this wall that we were able to see from Willes (Ex. 15), the area it
encloses being very large. Prom the bridge it runs up to the head of
the stream, i m., where it turns eastward and is carried over the ridge
to the Taw, crossing the East Ockment a short distance below its source.
It then runs down the Taw to Taw Plain, and it was doubtless intended
to continue it to a point on this river under Belstone Tor (Ex. 17), where
a wall runs up the hill and crossing the ridge between that tor and
Higher Tor, descends nearly to the East Ockment, its direction between
these points being about W. A short distance below where it terminates
is Crovenor Steps, where the Blackaven falls into the East Ockment,
and here it is seen again, forming for a short distance part of the en-
closing wall of East Ockment Farm. It is then continued up the
Blackaven to the bridge. The total length of the line here traced
is about 7 miles.
EXCURSION 16. THE IRISHMAN'S WALL. 77
The portion of this wall running down the hill from Belstone Tor
towards the East Ockment, as also that part of it on the lower Blacka-
ven, is known as the Irishman's Wall. The story goes that some
years ago a project was formed by an Irishman to enclose a part of
the moor here, and for the purpose of carrying out his plans he brought
a number of his countrymen to the locality. They set to work building
the wall, creating no little surprise among the Dartmoor folk, and
showing their contempt for the rough, damp ground over which they
had to walk to their labour by going bare-footed. The men of Belstone
and Okehampton said nothing, but let the work proceed. But they
had, notwithstanding, no intention of allowing it to be completed.
They saw that the taking in of such an immense tract would cut off
their commons from the forest. Consequently, when they considered
that a fitting time had arrived, they met in force and made such
breaches in the wall as to render it useless. The outworks of the
Irishman having thus been carried by storm, he evacuated his position,
and left the commoners victorious.
Who the Irishman was I am unable to say, but I find in the
Additions to Risdon's Survey, published in 1811, that among those
who are there called " improvers " of Dartmoor, Dr. Brown and
Mr. Crawford are named as having not long previously to that time
enclosed land on the verge of the forest near Okehampton. This
statement can only have reference to the tract of land within the
ruined wall, since there are no other enclosures in the forest in that
neighbourhood, and thus the time of its erection can be approximately
fixed, and if my informant was correct, which there is no reason to doubt,
the time of the building of the bridge as well.
Where the wall runs by the Blackaven from Crovenor Steps to
New Bridge it is carried nearly on the line of the forest boundary, but
not actually so. The latter runs a little to the W. of the bridge, which,
however, as it is near the line, is sometimes referred to as a bondmark.*
Above the bridge, and on the W. side of the Blackaven, the line is
carried through Curtory Glitters, and across Dinger Plain to Sandy
Ford (Ex. 14), being marked here and there by a bondstone.
New Bridge is 18 feet long, and rather more than that in width.
There are two openings for the water, each being about four feet wide
on the lower side ; the buttresses and centre pier are very thick, and
irregularly built. It is about 8 feet high on its lower side, and 18
inches less than this on its upper. Looking down the stream the
distant in-country is seen, backed by the high land of Exmoor.
The track by which we have reached the bridge is continued along
the R. bank of the stream in a southerly direction (T. 35. See also
Cranmere Routes), and climbs the hill S. of East Mil Tor. i m. from
* It is very improbable that the forest boundary line, even if it
ever came this way, and there is ample evidence to show that it did not
(see Perambulation in the Terms Section), would have been drawn as at
present laid down. The Blackaven would form a convenient boundary,
and it is difficult to imagine that it would not have been followed.
As it at present stands this stream is for some distance left just outside
the forest bounds ; an arrangement not altogether inconvenient for
the Okehampton commoners.
78 OKEHAMPTON DISTRICT.
the bridge it is crossed by the wall just noticed, outside which it is
continued for about |- m. to the summit of Ockment Hill, 1,856 feet,
but is there more of the character of a green path.
Leaving the track at the bridge and striking almost due E. we
make our way to the northern end of East Mil Tor, which rises close
by. Then we turn our steps southward, passing along the ridge, form
which there is a fine view of Yes Tor and the neighbouring heights.
Rocks extend from end to end of this ridge, which is about -J- m. long.
On reaching its southern extremity we continue S. to the wall, •£ m.
distant, noticing as we proceed a small tumulus near the track which
comes up the hill from the bridge on our R.
[We may extend our walk from the wall to the summit of Ock-
ment Hill, locally known as Ockaton Hill, where we shall find the
remains of a large tumulus. This hill, on which there is much broken
ground, comprises that part of the moor lying between the springs
of the East Ockment and the head of the West Ockment, and extends
westward to Brim Brook. About \ m. S.W. of the summit a little
stream rises and flows down through Vergyland Combe to the West
Ockment. This combe is noticed in the C.R. 5, and C.R. 9. Instead
of retracing our steps we strike N.E. for nearly i m., avoiding the head
of the East Ockment on our L., and then N. to the wall, which we
shall reach at a point \ m. E. of where we left it, and on the E. side of
the combe in which the Ockment rises.]
At the wall we turn L., i.e., eastward, and follow it for i m., cross-
ing on the way a combe through which the Ockment and a couple of
small feeders run. Having reached the E. side of this we turn north-
ward, where we shall find good ground, and shall make our way down
the valley, with Middle Hill on the further side of the Ockment on our
L., to Skit Bottom, where are numerous remains of old mining operations
known as Rithy Pits, and these extend to the enclosures of East Ock-
ment Farm, about i4- m. down from the wall. The river is often known
in this part of its course as the Skit, and seems also to have formerly
borne the name of Lede, at least in the town of Okehampton. In a
journal kept by John Rattenbury, " gentleman and burgess," in the
time of Charles I., the following entry occurs : — "3 August, 1628,
being Sabbath day. About four o'clocke in the afternoon, imme-
diately after evening prayer ended att the Church of Okehampton, there
being noe raine perceived to fall within or neare this towne, and the
streets being then very drye, the water now called Lede, or the East
water, was suddenly risen about some V. foote at the Easte bridge,
running more violent than had been usually knowne, and twas con-
ceived the water did savour and smell of some brimstone."
[As we approach East Ockment Farm we shall strike a camp road,
which comes out over Hart Tor Hill and crosses the Ockment. This
road we may follow L. to Okehampton Park, crossing the Blackaven at
Ston6 Ford, sometimes called Hart Tor (or Harter) Ford, on the verge
of Halstock Down. In the other direction, i.e., southerly, it runs out
%owards Taw Head.]
We pass down the valley with the river still on our I,., noticing
as we proceed the bridge over which the road runs to the farm. A few
score yards eastward of this bridge are the remains of a small circle,
about 15 feet in diameter, which probably once enclosed a kistvaen,
though nothing is to be seen of it now. A few of the stones are still
So OKEHAMPTON DISTRICT.
standing. Kast Ockment Farm is situated within the area that was
attempted to be enclosed by the great wall, but was only formed about
1878. As it came in the line of the artillery firing from Halstock Down
a lease of it was acquired by the War Office from the Duchy. It is
still let as a farm, but under certain restrictions. An under-ground
shelter is provided in which those who belong to the place take refuge
when firing is in progress. At the lower, or N.E. corner, of the farm
enclosures, is the ford known as Crovenor Steps, which has been already
mentioned, and here we meet the present forest bounds, the line being
drawn to this point from Dinger Plain along the Blackaven. A camp
road has been made to the ford, and this we now follow up the slope
westward, with the higher part of Halstock Down on our R., and the
Blackaven, in which we shall notice a number of small cascades, on
our L. After a walk of about £ m. we find ourselves near Stone Ford,
i,., but shall follow the road R., and passing the sand-pit before referred
to, shall soon reach Moor Gate. The route from this point is described
in Ex. 14.
[From Crovenor Steps the return to Okehampton may be made
by way of Halstock ; the walk will be found more interesting than
that by Moor Gate, and the distance is about the same. On crossing
the Ockment instead of following the road, we pass up the hill N.N.W.
to Kelly's Corner, a little over J m. distant. Here is a stone having
the letter L cut upon it, and forming a bondmark of land belonging
to Lydford. The small portion of the common of which this stone
marks one of the bounds, though now outside the forest, is nevertheless
always regarded as " forest " by those living in the locality, and there
can be little doubt that it was once within the confines of the ancient
hunting ground. The possession of this piece of common by the Duchy
is strong evidence that the forest bounds originally ran as the old
Perambulations and Surveys state. Passing onward, with the field*
a little to the R., we shall shortly reach a gate in a corner of the com-
mon, where a road leads to Halstock. Near to it is Halstock Pound.
R., a small square enclosure, used at the drifts principally for ponies.
Entering the gate we make our way down the road, with Chapel Lands
on our R. At the lower end of this field we strike the path from
Belstone to Okehampton, which we have already noticed (see ante;
also T. 36), and turning i,. to Halstock Farm, shall make our way to.
Okehampton in the manner described in that route.]
BORDER VILLAGES. 8t
Excursions from Belstone and Stieklepath.
Pleasantly situated on the verge of the common, Sitcklepath offers
many advantages to the visitor. It is one of the best points from
which the fine frontier height of Cosdon can be ascended ; the charming
Belstone Cleave may be reached in a few minutes ; and the border
settlement that gives name to the latter, and the old-fashioned villages
of South Tawton and South Zeal are not far off. Stickle is equivalent
to the Anglo-Saxon sticele, steep, a word in constant use in Devonshire,
and applied to steep roads or roofs, and to the shallows of rivers, where
the dropping of the bed causes the broken water to flow rapidly.
Stieklepath stands on the left bank of the Taw, which runs between it
and the wooded hillside forming the northern slope of Cosdon. Rising
not far from Cranmere this river has a course of about six miles through
the moorlands, and thence flowing northward falls into the Bristol
Channel in Barnstaple Bay. It was at its mouth that the followers of
Alfred slew the twelve hundred Danes, and captured the standard
woven by the three sisters of Hingwar and Hubba, as related in Asser's
life of the Saxon king. The chapel in the village, re-built in 1875, is
said to stand on the site of a chantry built and endowed by Joan
Courtenay in 1 146.
At the west end of the village is a well bearing the inscription :
I,ady Well. Drink and be Thankful.
Near it, on the edge of the common, is an inscribed stone (Crosses,
Chap. XL), and here a road runs up the valley to Belstone, a village
remarkably well placed for the Dartmoor explorer. Among old time
objects to be seen there are a moorland border church, a small manor
pound, and the pillars between which formerly swung the castigatory,
or ducking-stool. Named Bellestham in Domesday (the ham, or lands,
of Belles), the place was later known as Belleston, and in the time of
Henry II. belonged to Baldwin de Belston. It is one of the ancient
vils.
Ex. 17. — The Belstone Tors, Steeperton, M ether al Hill, Hound Tor,
White Moor Stone and Circle, White Hill, Taw Plain, Birchy Lake,
about 8 m.
Passing up the lane near the W. end of Belstone Church we soon
reach the common, where, leaving the track (T. 38) running from the
moor gate to the forest, we turn aside Iy., to Watchet Hill, on which, as
before mentioned, a danger signal is displayed when artillery practice
takes place in this part of the moor. This hill forms the northern
end of the ridge between the East Ockment and the Taw, which we
were able to see when on our ramble to Yes Tor and Willes (Ex. 15).
82 BELSTONE AND STICKLEPATH DISTRICT.
On its summit is a despoiled cairn, about 112 feet in circumference,
though a correct measurement cannot well be taken, as it is in such a
dilapidated condition. From this point we shall proceed to Belstone
Tor, nearly | m. distant, in a direction almost due S., passing on the
way two smaller piles, the three usually being spoken of as the Belstone
Tors Oir the slope to the R., and near the track, is the small circle
called the Nine Stones, or Nine Maidens, noticed in S. Ex. 41 ; it is
passed shortly before the first of the rock piles is reached.
Belstone Tor (1,567 feet) stands a little to the N. of the Irishman's
Wall (Ex. 1 6), which is here carried from the Taw over the ridge nearly
to the East Ockment. The whole of the ground is encumbered with
lumps of granite, the clatter on the E. side of the hill descending to
the Taw and covering both banks. On the S. side of the wall is Higher
Tor, and on reaching this we shall bear a little to the R. to Winter Tor,
a small pile close to the track which we left at the moor gate (T. 38),
and near to the point where it is joined by another coming up from
Crovenor Steps (T. 37, Ex. 16). On the further side of the valley W.,
is East Ockment Farm, of which we have here a good view. We now
follow the track, and at the distance of rather over a furlong shall
notice a low mound to the L. of the way ; in the centre of this is a
ruined kistvaen covered with a granite slab. As we proceed along
the summit of the ridge the whole of the level valley known as Taw
Plain is in sight on the L. At the southern end of this is the fine hill
crowned with Steeperton Tor, and peninsulated by the Taw on one side
and by Steeperton Brook on the other. The latter stream rises on the
northern side of Hangingstone Hill, and at no great distance from the
former. The western side of the valley is formed by the ridge along
which we are making our way ; on its eastern side are Metheral Hill,
White Hill, and the lower slope of Cosdon. It extends northward to
the clatter below the Belstone Tors, and is about 2 m. in length, and less
than i m. in width at its widest part. The Taw runs through it, re-
ceiving the Steeperton Brook at its head, and Small Brook lower down,
between which two tributary streams is Metheral Hill. Passing Ock
Tor, near which, on the western slope of the ridge, are some stones
placed in such a manner as to suggest a stone row, and noticing some old
tin workings at the foot of the great hill we are approaching, we soon
reach Steeperton Gorge, through which the Taw forces its way to the
open plain below. The further side of this ravine is formed by the great
flank of Steeperton, and it is so narrow as to afford little more than
room for the river. Quite close to the bank we shall observe the wall
spoken of in Ex. 16, and ere we have proceeded far shall meet with this
as it comes up the side of the defile at right angles to the Taw.
[The wall runs westward over Middle Hill, crossing the springs of
the East Ockment, and reaching the Blackaven. The visitor is here
near the pdint where he turns towards the N. in Ex. 16, to make his
way from the wall down the valley of the Skit, or East Ockment.
Southward of Middle Hill is Ockment Hill (Ex. 16, and C.R.), which
is bounded on the E. by the Taw ; it is noticed in the Cranmere Routes,
as also is the ridge S. of Steeperton, and between the Taw and the
Steeperton Brook. This ridge, a part of which is known as Ockside
Hill, terminates on the S. at the foot of Hangingstone Hill, in the
neighbourhood of Cranmere.]
On leaving the wall our track descends to the Taw, here crossed
EXCURSION 17. STEEPERTON. HOUND TOR. 83
by the clapper known as Knock Mine Bridge (T. 38). This is 29 feet
long and fifteen feet wide, and there are four openings, the two central
ones being wider than the others. The bridge was greatly damaged
by a flood in 1890. On the side of the steep slope above it are the
walls of a small building, one of the vestiges of the " knocke^d " Knock
Mine.
Crossing the stream we make our way up the side of Steeperton
Hill to the tor, distant | m. from the bridge, and 286 feet above it.
The rocks do not rise to a great height, and are therefore not particularly
striking in themselves, but the hill should certainly be ascended for
the sake of the fine view to be obtained from it. Northward we look
out over Taw Plain, with the Belstone range on the L,. and the huge
Cosdon on the R. E. by N. is Hound Tor, with Kennon Hill beyond
it, the former being about f m. distant. S.E. by S. is Wild Tor (i. short ;
rhymes with filled), £ m. off. Southward is the Wild Tor Ridge and
Ockside Hill, with Hangingstone Hill beyond. S.W. is Ockment Hill ;
and W., and ranging round towards the N., Willes, Yes Tor, the two
Mil Tors, and Row Tor. The southernmost mass on this hill is some-
times known as the Eagle Rock.
Our next point will be Hound Tor, but instead of making for it
direct we shall bear a little to the R. If we shape our course S. of E.
we shall strike the track running out from South Zeal (T. 41) shortly
after crossing the Steeperton Brook, and turning I,, into this shall soon
find ourselves abreast of the tor. On the I/, as we proceed is Metheral
Hill, a tract sloping down to Taw Marsh, and rising in a slightly rounded
form between the Steeperton Brook I,, and Small Brook R. The first-
named stream runs down through Metheral Hole, where are the remains
of some tin workings known as White Pits. This name is found
attached to several places or objects in the locality, there being White
Hill, White Moor, White Moor Mead (see post and Cosdon Section),
and White Works (Ex. 19). The line marking the boundary between
the forest and South Tawton Common is now drawn from Small Brook
Foot, on which stream there are also some mining remains, up through
the middle of Metheral Hill to White Moor Stone, but as already stated
it is probable that it formerly ran further to the east.
Hound Tor is a small low pile placed on a narrow ridge between
the watersheds of the Taw and the Teign. It forms one of the forest
bondmarks, and appears in the Perambulation of 1240 as " parva
Hundetorre." The line is now drawn from White Moor Stone, less than
\ m. N.E., to the tor, and thence to Wild Tor Well, nearly r m. to the
S. (Ex. 19), and throughout this distance defines the boundary between
the Duchir possessions and Throwleigh Common. From Hound Tor
the ground slopes southward to the mire above Gallaven Ford, to which
point a track comes out from Clannaborough Down (T. 42), passing
between Kennon Hill, the summit of which is less than a mile distant
E. by N., and Raybarrow Pool (Ex. 18). Beyond the mire, and to the
R. of it, rise the rocks of Wild Tor (Ex. 19). E. by S. of Hound Tor,
and not far from Gallaven Ford, is a plain piece of ground sometimes
known as White Moor Mead. N. of this is White Moor, marked by the
tall stone bearing that name, and to which we shall now make our way.
[For a description of other objects in the neighbourhood of this
tor see Exs. 18, 19, and R. 24, 25.]
White Moor is a tract extending north-eastward to Raybarrow
84 BELSTONE AND STICKLEPATH DISTRICT.
Pool, and is bounded on the N. by Brook Hill, which is situated to
the S. of White Hill. White Moor Stone stands on a flat, broken
piece of ground, W.S.W. of the southern arm of the pool, and about
250 yards from it. Though now serving as a boundary mark
it may still be a genuine menhir, while it is also not unlikely
that it originally belonged to the stone circle near by. It is a large
slab about 5 feet 6 inches high, and less than 6 inches thick ; its width
is about 3 feet. The circle is N. by W. of it, and very near to the South
Zeal track (T. 41). This now consists of 13 stones, only one of which
was erect previous to about 1897, in which year the monument was
" restored." It is evident that there were formerly more stones than
at present, and as we can hardly suppose that they would be carried
far, it is not at all improbable that they were taken away to serve as
bondstones, of which there are several in the locality. The stones are
between three and four feet in height.
On leaving the White Moor Circle we shall cross the track and
strike N.N.W. to a group of ruined huts 4 m. distant, passing over
Brook Hill, on which is a low cairn. Close to the huts we shall notice
a short reave, and not far from this, in a northerly direction, is a
dilapidated kist, and what appears to be a menhir lying prone on the
ground. Below this group the hill, which sinks down to Small Brook
is covered with rocks, between which whortleberry plants grow in great
profusion. One cluster of these granite masses near the stream is called
the Flock o' Sheep. Passing down the slope in a north-westerly
direction, with the stream on the L., we shortly come upon other
remains. These consist of hut circles enclosed within three pounds of
an irregular circular shape, the walls, or rather banks, of which are very
low, and in a dilapidated condition. One of these pounds is quite near
to Small Brook, which here flows through a hollow. From the smallest
of them a short reave is carried towards the stream, and close to it is
another running from the stream northward. This terminates very
near to the Ivy Tor Water, which is about f m. distant, and is men-
tioned in our notice of the track leading from Ford over the shoulder
of Cosdon (T. 40).
In descending the side of the hill from the first group of huts we
have a good view of Taw Plain, and of the distant range of hills capped
by Willes, rising beyond the Belstone ridge. From this part of the
moor these hills present such a different appearance from that worn by
them when seen from other points as to render them at first not readily
recognizable. The sides of Taw Plain very nearly approach each other
at its lower, or northern end, where the Taw seems to have scooped
out a channel for itself. In the days when this channel was at a higher
level than at present it is probable that the plain formed the bed of a
shallow lake, into which the foot of Steeperton projected. This idea
will certainly be suggested to the visitor who looks upon it from the
point we have now reached, or when he views it from near Birchy
Lake. It is about 1,160 feet above sea-level.
Below the hut circles Small Brook runs through Taw Marsh to
the Taw, the confluence being known as Small Brook Foot. The
tributary may be followed to the larger stream, there being good hard
ground upon its banks ; or we may strike into the green track that we
shall s e running towards the N. from a ford over the brook (T. 40).
If we choose the former we shall pass between the two patches of miry
COSDON BEACON. 85
ground of which Taw Marsh consists, and on reaching the Taw shall
cross it at the first place where an opportunity offers, or follow the
river down to Ducky Pool, just below which it makes an abrupt bend
where there are two fords. Here it is narrow as well as shallow, and
can generally be crossed without difficulty. If we follow the track it
will lead us for a short distance over a smooth, level piece of ground,
with White Hill on the R. Then we leave it and strike towards the
river, our mark being Higher Tor, on the ridge beyond. This will
bring us to the fords at the bend.
[Should the Taw be in flood it will, of course, be necessary for the
visitor to return by way of Knock Mine Bridge.]
On crossing the river we strike a rough track (T. 39), which we
shall follow past the Irishman's Wall, and through a wilderness of
stones, to Birchy Lake. It was among these masses of granite that
the cottage of the old woman with the evil eye formerly stood, and
where Luke Duggins shot the black cat, Pluto. The visitor will look
in vain for traces of it now, for it was destroyed by the spell of a good
pixy at the very moment the old woman was about to fly away on a
broomstick. Birchy Lake consists of a farmhouse, and one or two
other dwellings. A good road leads to Belstone, £ m. distant, a fine
view of the Cleave being obtained on the way.
Cosdon.
The huge hill of Cosdon spreads itself over the greater part of South
Tawton common. Its local name is Cosson, for which there is a cer-
tain degree of authority, as we find that both names were in use in
1609, but none whatever for Cawsand, which form appears on the
Ordnance Map published in 1888. Cosson is, of course, merely the
Devonshire way of pronouncing the true name, the earliest mention
of which is in the Perambulation of 1240, where it is given as Cossdonne.
Until the nineteenth century was well advanced this hill was thought
to be the highest on Dartmoor, but there are several of much greater
elevation ; its height is 1,799 feet, or 240 feet less than that of Willes.
On the N. the hill is bounded by Belstone Cleave, Skaigh Wood, and
the plantation above Ford ; on the E. by the enclosures running S.
from that plantation nearly to the head of Cheriton Combe ; on the
S. by Raybarrow Pool and White Hill ; and on the W. by the northern
part of Taw Plain.
The summit of this hill is crowned with a cairn 90 yards in circum-
ference, known as Cosdon, or Cosson, Beacon ; indeed, this name
is often applied by the natives to the whole hill About 1 50 yards
N.E. of this cairn are the remains of what appears to have been two
kistvaens encircled by a ring of slabs over 50 feet in diameter. A
short distance to the N.E. are the scant vestiges of a cairn, and to the
N. W. of this the remaina of another, each of them being about 60 feet
in diameter. Around the latter are some slabs leaning outwards, in
the manner often noticed where the stone circle surrounds a tumulus.
Before these remains were despoiled they must have formed a striking
group. But the wall builder on Dartmoor is, or was, generally a
vandal; a cairn would mean nothing more to him than a heap of
material, and a kistvaen, if its sides were long, a couple of gate-posts.
86 BELSTONE AND STICKLEPATH DISTRICT.
The antiquities on the summit of Cosdon are not by any means
the only ones on that hill that have suffered at the hands of the spoliator.
We remember when there were many hut circles on its eastern side,
between the peat road (T. 41) and the enclosures opposite West Week,
but only the vestiges of a few are to be found there now, and it is not
so many years since that the monument formerly known in the locality
as Eight Rocks disappeared. This consisted of eight upright stones,
forming part of what had once been a fine circle or row. From a
description given to me many years ago at Whiddon Down I judge it
to have been the latter. The stones stood at the northern end of
the hill, on the slope above Ford. Children in the neighbourhood
used to be told that when the Eight Rocks heard South Tawton bells
they would be seen to dance.
[Another stone row, which is situated on a little plateau on the
eastern side of the hill, and not very far from the enclosures, is known
as the Cemetery, and this we have mentioned in our description of
the track from South Zeal and Prospect Place to the forest (T. 41).
It consists of three parallel rows of stones, running from two kist-
vaens, and was "restored" in 1897. The kists are surrounded by a
circle of low stones about 17 feet in diameter, and are placed side by
side. One of them is fairly intact, but of the other only one side stone
and one end stone remain, the latter serving also as an end stone to
the more complete kist. Running almost due E. from this little circle
is the triple row, which is about 8 feet in width at its widest part, and
here some of the stones composing it are from 3 to 4 feet in height.
For a distance of about 85 paces the row is well defined ; it then
becomes rather fainter, and extends for another 70 paces to the track
referred to. About 120 paces N. of this monument, which presents a
rather striking appearance, is a reave running like the row E. and W.
It is very much overgrown in places, but it can be seen that some
large stones were used in forming it. This group of antiquities is
situated N. of the upper end of Cheriton Combe, looking down which
the tower of Throwleigh Church can be seen S.E. by E.]
On the western slope of this great hill, due W. of the beacon cairn,
and rather over a furlong from it, is a group of hut circles, some being
of rather large size and others small. A part of this group stands
within a pound about 350 paces in circumference, the wall of which
is irregularly built of loose stones, and is not more than about 3 feet
in height. The whole is much overgrown with heather. Below this,
towards the W., is a dilapidated cairn, and the vestiges of a reave, and
running southward from the head of the Ivy Tor Water is the reave
mentioned in Ex. 17.
In our notice of the bounds of Dartmoor forest we have stated
that Cosdon was the starting-point of the perambulators who were
appointed in 1 240 to view them, but from what part of the hill they set
out cannot now be stated with any certainty. If the forest line then
ran across Taw Plain, as it is now supposed to do, Cosdon would be
altogether outside it, and there would have been no reason for mention-
ing it, unless it was that the point from which the perambulators set
out was the foot of the hill, supposing what we now call White Hill
to have been looked upon as one with Cosdon itself. But the return
made under the commission (only copies of which, however, exist),
shows the Perambulation to have begun at Hoga de Cosdonne, or
VIEW FROM COSDON. 87
Cosdon Hill, and as when other hills are named in the return it is clear
that the summit of them is meant, it is only reasonable to suppose
that such was intended in the case of the one in question, besides
which the name would also lead us to that conclusion, hoga meaning
height.* But whether the bounds viewed in 1240 included much or
little of Cosdon within the royal forest, it appears certain that the
crown had possessed rights over that part of the moor, and probably
contended for them then, a claim which we believe has not been aban-
doned by the Duchy. South Tawton was ancient demesne, and King
John, when Earl of Moretain, held the manor of Richard I. It after-
wards came into the possession of Roger de Toeny, who apparently
paid twenty shillings a year for the common, which is probably what
is referred to in certain manorial records as Tawland.
The view from Cosdon is of great extent and variety. On one
hand the solitary moor, with its hills rising bleak and bare ; on the
other a vast panorama of wood and field happily intermingled. All
the prominent heights to which our rambles from Okehampton and
Belstone have taken us are in sight. Away to the S.E. by S. is the
ridge of Hameldon, and to the I,, of it, and further off, the twin masses
of Hey Tor (Ex. 25). Between the openings in the hills, in a direction
almost due S., a distant eminence rises against the sky. On this,
but too far removed from us to be visible, is the cairn known as Western
Whitaburrow, which marks the extreme southern point of the forest,
the line being there drawn between it and Brent Moor (Ex. 30). Its
distance from the summit of Cosdon is 16 m., as measured on the map.
Nearly the whole of North Devon is revealed, and very much of the
eastern part of the county. Northward is the stretch of cultivated
country that extends to the foot of the Exmoor hills, which are seen
bounding the view in that direction. Hardly a season passes but
some of the red deer from that district make their way across this to
Dartmoor, a journey of about 30 miles. When the weather is favour-
able the Bristol Channel off Barnstaple Bay is clearly discernible, and
towards the S.E. the English Channel beyond the mouth of the Teign.
Few directions for ascending Cosdon Hill are necessary, the ground
being everywhere easily passable, but it may perhaps be well to briefly
indicate the best routes.
(A). From Belstone the first point will be Birchy Lake (Ex. 17).
a short distance above which, where the enclosures on the "L,. terminate,
the Taw will be crossed by the natural stepping-stones in its channel,
a task which, unless the stream be in flood, will present no difficulty.
The summit of the hill is now about i m. distant in a direction
S.E. by E. About midway up the track to Small Brook is crossed
(T. 40), and also the Ivy Tor Water, near which the ground is some-
times rather marshy, but not sufficiently so to prove an obstacle. Be-
tween this little brook and the beacon cairn on the summit the hut circles
referred to as being on the western slope of the hill will be passed.
(If, on reaching the R. bank of the Taw, the rambler follows it up for
* The name appears in many parts of the country ; as in Morthoe
and Trentishoe, in the North of Devon ; in Hawley's Hoe, the residence
of a former merchant of Dartmouth ; in Plymouth Hoe ; in Humbershoe
and Tatternhoe, in Bedfordshire ; and in Wivenhoe, in Essex. Alster
Hohe also occurs near Hamburg.
BELSTONE AND STICKLEPATH DISTRICT.
a short distance instead of immediately ascending the hill, he will
come upon the ruins of a small building, consisting of walls forming
three sides of a square, and of the kind seen in connection with the
tinners' workings. But many years ago we found a story current in
the locality to the effect that this house was one of those in which the
Irish people who settled in this part of the moor some years ago used
to live, and it was then referred to as the Irishmen's House. Pre-
sumably these were employed in building the wall which has been
described in Ex. 16, and according to the account we gathered they
were driven away by the natives. Prom this ruin the course to the
summit of the hill will be a trifle more eastward than the former one).
(B). From Sticklepath the hill may be reached by the path
running up through the wood. Another way is by the track from
Ford to Small Brook (T. 40). Soon after gaining the common
the branch of this path ascending the hill L. will be reached, and into
this the visitor must turn. It does not go quite to the summit of
Cosdon, but very near to it. Another way is by leaving this track where
it enters on the common, and striking a little W. of S. to a small clatter
known as Rabbits' Holt. Here is a stone about 6 feet in height, one
of a line erected in 1885, to mark the boundary of certain mineral
rights, and also that between what was anciently known as the manor
of Zeal Toeny and the land over which the Duchy claims jurisdiction.
There have been frequent disputes between the commoners of South
Tawton parish and the Duchy. It is claimed by the former that they
have a right to enclose, and, as will be seen, they have fenced in a good
part otthe side of the hill opposite Ramsleigh and West Week. The
late Bailiff of Dartmoor, the representative of the Duchy authorities,
sought to prevent this, and once attempted to throw down some walls
the commoners had erected. But the latter were not disposed to allow
their rights to be interfered with, and mustering in force repelled the
invaders. On one face of the stone in question are the letters S Z,
with the figure 2 beneath them, and on the other the letters D C, and
a similar figure. These stand for South Zeal and Duchy of Cornwall
respectively, the figure being merely the number of the stone. Another
of the stones may be seen near the corner of Skaigh, to the N.W. ; and
a third hard by the enclosures to the S.E. South Tawton Church is
about i J m. from the clatter in a north-easterly direction. The summit
of Cosdon is rather over 4 m. distant.
(C). From South Zeal the lane leading to the road at Prospect
Place, near Ramsleigh Mine, may be followed. The Place is a row of
cottages erected in 1845, as a tablet in the wall shows. Here the road
is crossed, and the visitor will then pass up the narrow way to the
common, as described in our notice of the track to the Steeperton
Brook (T. 41). When the common is reached he will leave the track
and climb the hill R. ; on the way he will see the boundary stone at
Rabbits' Holt which we have just noticed.
(D). From Clannaborough Down the route will be as in Ex. 18.
On reaching the Cemetery the steep side of Cosdon, which rises abruptly
from the plateau on which that monument is situated, must be scaled.
The course will be nearly due W., and the distance from the rows to
the beacon cairn on the summit about i rn.
(E). From Ensworthy the course will be about N.W. Cross
Forder Brook, and then make up over Shilstone Hill to the Blackaton
EXCURSION 18. RAYBARROW POOL. 89
Brook, which will be struck where the Gallaven track (T. 42) runs
beside it. Keep Cheriton Combe on the R., and in about ^ m. the peat
road (T. 41) will be reached. The summit of the hill is about \ m.
beyond this.
(F). From White Moor Circle the peat road (T. 41) must be
followed northward to the edge of Raybarrow Pool (Ex. 18), when the
visitor will strike over the common I/., his course being due N. Cosdon
Beacon is less than 300 feet above this point, and about f m. from it.
(G). From the ford at Small Brook the summit bears a little
E. of N.E., and is some 550 feet above it. The way lies over White
Hill, the distance being about i m. The ground is good, and the
visitor will find no difficulty in reaching the beacon.
Ex. 1 8. — Steeperton Track, Raybarrow Pool, White Moor Circle,
Blackaton Brook, Cheriton Combe, about 9 m. (EXTENSION to Kennon
Hill, White. Moor Marsh, Shilsione Tor, and Clannaborough Down,
about ii m. further).
We leave Sticldepath by the eastern road, and after crossing the
bridge over the Taw, of which there is mention in the Lydford Court
Rolls of the time of Elizabeth, shall bear R. to Prospect Place. Here
we turn R. into the Steeperton track, or Peat Road (T. 41), which we
shall not desert until we reach the confines of the forest, 3 m. distant.
On passing the Cemetery (Cosdon Section) we look down upon Cheriton
Combe I/., where is some miry ground, in which a little feeder
of the Blackaton Brook takes its rise. Skirting the head of this our
track, which as before observed is one of the best of similar paths on
the moor, gradually ascends to Raybarrow Pool, f- m. further on, along
the western edge of which it is carried. The so-called pool is really
an extensive mire, one of the worst in the moorland region, and lies
between the foot of the southern slope of Cosdon and that part of
Throwleigh Common known as Kennon Hill. It is considerably over
•£ m. in length from N. to S., but not quite J m. in breadth, except
in one place. It is very probable that this swampy flat once merited
its name, and that it has been artificially drained by deepening the
channel of the Blackaton Brook, which flows from it on the east. No
stream runs into the mire, but it receives the drainage of a large area
of moorland, and in very rainy seasons a little water gathers in one
part of it. Its elevation is about 1,500 feet. It was into Raybarrow
Pool that Sampson Bow, the moorman, drove the band of sheep-
stealers who once made an old building called Cosdon House their
haunt. Soon after passing the mire we come in sight of White Moor
Circle on the L.
(The route to Belstone from this circle is described in Ex. 17).
Our way lies past the circle to White Moor Stone, which is about
200 yards S.E. by E. of it (Ex. 17), and thence to a bondstone % m.
nearly due E. This stands close beside the track leading from Clanna-
borough Down to Gallaven (T. 42). Here we turn northward, and
follow the path along the eastern edge of Raybarrow Mire to the point
where Blackaton Brook issues from it, Kennon Hill being on our R>
By crossing the little stream just below its head, and following the
QO BELSTONE AND STICKLEPATH DISTRICT.
path to another crossing-place, we shall avoid some miry ground, but
on regaining the R. bank the former will become our sole companion.
It will lead us past the point where the Cheriton Combe Water falls
into it, and through Blackaton Hole, a romantic hollow, at the lower
end of which is a small fording-place with a footpath climbing the
steep I,, bank. A little way down stream is the reach known as Shilley
Pool, below which water is taken from the brook for use at Ramsleigh
Mine.
(This mine is worked for copper. Among others in the district
we are noticing may be mentioned Ivy Tor Mine, or Belstone Consols,
Copper Hill Mine, and Halstock Mine).
[Extension from White Moor Stone over Kennon Hill. This will
not greatly add to the length of our excursion. The first point will be
the bondmark by the side of the Gallaven Track (T. 42), noticed above,
whence we soon reach tht summit of Kennon Hill (1,573 feet), ^ m.
E.S.E. of the monolith. From this hill we have a good view of the
commons that slope down to the North Teign, and of some of the
principal points in the north-east part of the forest. Beyond the
Teign, S.S.E., is seen Shovel Down (Ex. 20), with the enclosures and
trees of Batworthy to the L. of it, and further away the commons
rising towards that part of tht moor over which runs the road between
Moorgate (Ex. 21) and the Warren House Inn (Ex. 45). Two miles
away to the S.S.W. is Watern Tor (Ex. 19), and i£ m. S.W. Wild Tor
(Ex. 19), backed by the high land that stretches away to the region of
Cranmere. W.S.W. is Steeperton (Ex. 17), and due W., and 4 m.
distant, High Willes (Ex. 15). Kennon Hill has a smooth grassy
surface, with some scattered stones about its higher part. On its
western side a few remains of an older day are met with, among them
being the scanty vestiges of huts of the kind usually regarded a»
shepherds', or herdsmen's, shelters. On this side also are some mining
gerts, one of which is named Proctor Gully, and another London
Pit. The hill is bounded on the S. by Ruelake Pit and Rival Tor
(Ex. 19) ; on the W. by White Moor and Raybarrow Pool ; on the N.
by Blackaton Brook and Shilstone Hill ; and on the E. by White Moor
Bottom, in which is situated White Moor Marsh, the source of the
Forder Brook. From the summit of Kennon the head of this marsh
is -J- m. distant, and if wt follow a S.E. by E. course we shall reach it
where a small hollow is formed in the steep side of the shallow valley.
This grassy dell was formerly a haunt of the elves of the moor, and is
still called the Pixies' Parlour.
Crossing the head of White Moor Marsh we find ourselves at the
foot of Buttern Hill, which forms the eastern side of the little valley,
and which is noticed in our excursions from Chagford (Ex. 19), together
with Creber Pound and other objects of interest in this locality. Ex-
tending northward from this hill to Blackaton Brook are Ensworthy
Hill, forming, like Buttern, a part of the common lands of Gidleigh,
Shilstone Hi1!, and Clannaborough Down, the latter two belonging to
Throwleigh Common. We pass down the hollow, with the marsh
close on our I,., and near its lower end shall observe the ruins of a
mining hut of the usual rectangular form, and consisting cf a central
chamber with a smaller one en each side. On the slope are also the
remains of a circle, which was apparently over 80 feet in diameter
EXCURSION 18. SHILSTONE TOR. 91
when in a complete state. Only six of the stones are now standing,
but the monument seems to have originally consisted of more than
thirty.
Skirting Ensworthy Hill we shall cross the little Forder Brook
where it bends R., and entering once more upon Throwleigh Common,
shall direct our steps to Shilstone Tor, on the further side of a tiny
feeder that comes down north-westward through Shilstone Combe.
Shilstone Tor stands close to the road leading from Payne's Bridge to
Creber Pound and Berry Down. The pile, never a very large one,
has unfortunately been rendered almost insignificant by the quarry-
man. There are two excavations in it from which stone has been
taken, and many of the blocks composing it also show the marks of
the bars used in splitting them. But this destruction by the road-
mender is not all ; it has been sought to rob the tor of its name also.
It is rather amusing to read that a late antiquary " identified " this
pile with the Hound Tor (Ex. 17) of the perambulators, and to note
that his fanciful idea has been accepted by another writer in sketching
the bounds of the forest. There is not the slightest proof that this tor
ever bore any other name than that by which it is now known, or that
the perambulators ever came within two miles of it. But the " identi-
fication " was necessary in order to support a view that the forest was
much larger in 1240 than it is at present. It was desired to show
that the perambulators drew their line from Cosdon to this point, but
as they have distinctly recorded that they drew it to Hound Tor, this
could only be done by giving the name of the latter to Shilstone Tor.
The process is a beautifully simple one, and if carried out on a generous
scale it would be easy to show that every tor on Dartmoor was once
within the forest. It has also been applied in another place, as we shall
see later on, where a new name has been given to a stream in order to
bring it in as a boundary (Ex. 21).
Near Shilstone Tor is the entrance to the farm of the same name,
noticed in S. Ex. 46.
It is not only the destruction of natural objects that has taken
place on this common. The remains of erections of an old-time people
have also suffered at the hands of roadmen and wall builders, among
others one which appears to have been an enclosure very similar to
that existing near Sharp Tor above East Combe on the Dart (Ex. 41),
although the wall was not quite of the s:j.me character. The moormen,
it is said, used to refer to it as a pound, which name, indeed, they give
to all ancient enclosures of larger size than the hut circles, and by
which they mean a place where rattle could be driven for shelter and
protection. No trace of this now exists, but vestiges of other remains
are numerous on every part of Shilston Hill and Clannaborough Down.
These we shall meet with as we make our way across the commons in
a north-westerly direction from the tor. They consist chiefly of a
number of reaves and hut circles, some of the latter being of large size,
but they are so much overgrown with short furze and heather, as to
be undiscernible until the rambler comes close upon them. In one
plate two of the reaves run parallel for a considerable distance, the
space between them being about the width of an ordinary roadway.
Still further N.W. there are others, while hut circles are also numerous
on the down due N. of the tor
When we have proceeded about \ m. we shall cross the Gallaven
92 OKEHAMPTON DISTRICT.
Track (T. 42), as it runs up over Clannaborough Down, and a short
distance beyond this is Blackaton Brook. We pass onward to the
little crossing- place over the stream above Shilley Pool.]
On crossing Blackaton Brook we once more find ourselves on
South Tawton Common, with Cheriton Combe on the L. Our course
will now be about N.N.W. from the fording-place. Not very far from
the brook, and when a little S. of W. of East Week (the group of
thatched cottages seen across the shallow valley), we shall notice two
stones, their position seeming to indicate that they once formed part of
a large circle, though this is not free from doubt. On the slope of the
hill R., are a number of small modern farm enclosures, near which are
the remains of a few hut circles. There were formerly many more of
these, but they have been destroyed by the builders of the walls. About
£ m. from Blackaton Brook we shall strike the Steeperton Track (T. 41 ),
near the Cemetery, which we shall follow northward, and where it forks
turn down the hill R. to Prospect Place, thence returning to Stickle-
path by the road by which we set out.
[An alternative route from Shilstone Tor, or from Shilley Pool,
is by way of Payne's Bridge. In the former case the road near the tor
is followed northward to the bridge, which is i m. distant ; in the
latter Blackaton Brook is traced downward for rather less than 4 m.
The distance from the bridge to Prospect Place is i£ m. See S. Ex. 44
and 45.]
Shorter Excursions.
(FROM OKEHAMPTON).
S. Ex. 34. — Sourton Down and Prewley Moor, 9 m. Leaving the
town by way of the West Bridge the visitor will follow the Tavistock
road (passing the branch L. at 2^ m. which leads to Meldon) to a point
on what was formerly a part of Sourton Down. Here on the R.,
and 3-J- m. from the town, where the Hatherleigh road diverges, is a
guide-stone, and a little further on, but on the L., a fine granite cross
over 8 feet in height. [Crosses, Chap. XI.] It will be noticed that
the arms are very short, and this, and the fact that it bears a Romano-
British inscription, will probably justify us in supposing that it was
fashioned out of a menhir. The latter, which is cut lengthwise on
the shaft, is apparently to the memory of Princip. The cross has
also been made to serve a similar purpose to that of the guide-stone,
letters indicating the direction of Hatherleigh, Okehampton, Tavistock,
and I/aunceston, being cut upon it Proceeding southward along the
road, past the spot where Jockey Down's House formerly stood, the
rambler soon reaches Prewley Moor (T. 32, Ex. 13), and |- m. from the
cross will pass under the railway, and make his way up the common.
He will not, however, follow the track running out to Kitty Tor
(T. 32), but will keep rather near to the enclosures on the L. Soon
after Prewley farmhouse is passed, which is situated on the verge of
the common on that side, a track will be struck near where it leaves
SHORTER EXCURSIONS FROM OKEHAMPTON. 93
the moor. This is the King Way (T. 26), which comes down to this
point from Iron Gates (Ex. 13). Turning into this ancient path the
rambler will follow it down the hill northward past Higher Bowden
to Meldon, which is reached just after passing under the railway.
(The road running R. leads to Meldon Down, Ex. 14). f- m. beyond
the hamlet the rambler will reach the road by which he left Oke-
hampton, at a point 2.\ m. from the town.
S. Ex. 35. — Meldon Gorge. A, 6\ m. ; B, 8 m. ; C, including the
Island of Rocks, 10 m. By the Tavistock road as in the preceding
excursion for 2 j m. ; then bear up the hill I,, to Meldon. (A) Down
the path, eastward, to Burrow Cleave (Ex. 14) ; thence by the track
under the viaduct (T. 33), and through Meldon Quarry, to Higher
Bowden Steps, £ m., the Ockment being I,, and Meldon Down R.
Cross the river at the steps, and turn L., following the track (T. 33)
under the viaduct to Okehampton Park. Thence to the town by the
path, the route being the reverse of that described at the beginning
of Ex. 14. (B) From the stepping-stones down to where the Redaven
falls into the Ockment. Cross this tributary, and ascend the road R.,
with the enclosures on the L. Keep these on that side, and follow
the road eastward across Black Down. In rather over i£ m. Anthony
Stile vri.11 be reached, near which is a small building. This is the
filter- house connected with the Okehampton water supply, which is
taken from the Redaven. Follow the track between the wall Iy.,
and Moor Brook R., to Moor Gate. (C) From Meldon up the road
towards the railway ; take the first turning ~L<. under the bridge ; thence
by the lane to Meldon Down, £ m. distant. From the moor gate a
track descends to Higher Bowden Steps (T. 33), but the rambler will
keep this on his L,., and not descend far below the brow of the hill.
By so doing he will strike an old disused water-course, which now serves
as a path, and this he will follow along the side of South Down for
about i m., to the point where the little Vellake comes down on the R.
The scenery is described in Ex. 14. A short distance above this is the
Island of Rocks, whence the rambler may make his way to Shilstone
Tor, on the slope of the hill to the S. From this group of rocks he
will return to the Vellake, reaching it, however, a few hundred yards
above the confluence. Passing up the hill, with the enclosures close
to him on the R., he will soon reach the King Way where it comes
down from Iron Gates, as described in S. Ex. 34. From this point he
will follow the directions given in that excursion.
The West Ockment from Sandy Ford downward (Ex. 14) forms
the boundary between the commons of Okehampton and those in
Sourton parish. At Vellake Corner the boundary line leaves the
Ockment and runs up the little stream, and is continued on to Iron
Gates (Ex. 13), where, forming an acute angle, it turns back to the
point where the King Way enters on the enclosed lands. A wedge-
shaped tract is thus cut out of the Sourton common lands, and to
account for this erratic course of the boundary line the story often
attached to spots where a similar curious arrangement occurs is related.
This is to the effect that the dead body of a strange man was found
on the common belonging to Sourton, but the people of that parish
refusing to give it burial it was interred by the men of Okehampton,
and as a consequence that part of the moor was afterwards claimed
94 OKEHAMPTON DISTRICT.
by them.* A similar story is related in other parts of Dartmoor.
The Glazes are said to have been lost to Brent in this manner (Ex.
31), and the parish of Shaugh thrusts its boundaries into the forest
on a like pretence (Ex. 34).
S. Ex. 36. — Black Tor, 9 m. To Meldon Gorge through the Park
as in Ex. 14. On crossing the Redaven we shall leave the Ockment
and ascend Longstone Hill L., by following the upward track (T. 33).
When it bends sharply I,, we leave it, and striking a little E. of S.
shall soon reach the Fishcombe Water, often called the Homerton
Brook. This stream we shall then follow to its source, a charming
spot named Fishcombe Head, where a few dwarf oaks grow among
scattered rocks, and at a considerable height above the gorge. About
tm. distant, in a direction S. by E.. is Black Tor, consisting of three
ne piles, from which there is a grand view of the deep valley of the
West Ockment. This tor is seen from Cranmere Pool. Against one
of the piles a small shelter is reared, for use during the artillery firing.
Forsland Ledge is seen on the brow of the hill J m. S.E. On leaving
the tor the visitor will strike N.E., and crossing the common under
the northern side of Willes and Yes Tor, will reach the ford on the
Redaven in about li m. From that point he will follow the track to
Moor Gate as described in Ex. 15. Redaven Ford is i m. E.N.E. of
Fishcombe Head.
S. Ex. 37. — The Blackaven and Dinger Tor, 10 m. To New Bridge
as in Ex. 16 (T. 35). We do not cross the stream, but continue our
way up the L. bank to Curtory Glitters, and on to Blackaven Head.
About £ m. beyond this, in a S.S.W. direction, is the source of Brim
Brook. On reaching this we follow the little stream downward for a
short distance, when we shall come upon a miners' hut on the I/, bank.
It is of the usual type, and is 17^- feet by 1 1 feet on the inside, the walls
being between 3 feet and 4 feet in height. Below it, and on the same
side of the stream, is another ; this is rather smaller, being only 1 6 feet
by 7 feet, but is a better example. These buildings are 3^ m. from
Moor Gate by the route we have followed. On leaving them we strike
northward, ascending the hill to Dinger Tor, less than £ m. distant.
E. of this we strike the track noticed in Ex. 1 5 (T. 34), and shall follow
it back to Moor Gate.
S. Ex. 38. — West Mil Tor and Row Tor, 6| m. To Redaven Dip
as in Ex. 1 5 . Then strike L. to West Mil Tor, and passing over this,
cross the head of Creaber's Hole to Row Tor. From thence N.E. to
the track running to New Bridge, which follow N. to Moor Gate.
S. Ex. 39. — Crovenor Steps, 5^ m. To Moor Gate as in Ex. 15.
Then follow the camp road, with the enclosures of Pudhanger L., to
Halstock Down. The road bears L. to Crovenor Steps, on the East
Ockment. From this point the return may be made by way of Halstock
as described in Ex. 16.
* I have referred to this in my account of the Okehampton Com-
mons in the new edition of Bridges' book already mentioned. I
learnt from the late Mr. J. D. Prickman that it used to be said that
the body was discovered by a dog. He took the trouble to search the
registers of Okehampton and Sourton, but found that the only recorded
burial of an unknown person related to a woman, and that there was
no entry confirmatory of the story.
Shorter Excursions from Belstone and Stlcklepath. 95
The Chapel of Halstock may be visited on the return route. The
direct route to it from Okehampton is given in our notice of the path
between that place and Belstone.
S. Ex. 40. — Ancient Camp near Ashbury Tor, 3^ in. To the brow
of the hill near Fitz's Well. We then enter the gate on the L,. as in
going to Halstock (T. 36), but instead of following the road thither
we strike across East Hill, our course being a little N. of E. On the
R. is Halstock Cleave, through which Moor Brook runs to join the
Ockment. Passing over Heather Knoll we reach the mounds known
as The Camp, which the Rev. H. G. Fothergill, who made an examina-
tion of them in 1840, thought to consist of British, Danish, and Roman
remains. He considered that he found the first two periods repre-
sented by some ramparts overlooking Moor Brook, and the latter by
the rectangular enclosures adjoining these on the N. Close by is
Ashbury Tor, beautifully draped with climbing plants, and half hidden
amid heather. The spot is altogether very charming, and the visitor
should by no means omit to include it in his rambles. A fine view of
Belstone West Cleave is obtained from the rocks. We may return to
the hill near the station by striking over the down N.W.
(FROM BEDSTONE).
S. Ex. 41. — The West Cleave and Nine Maidens, 3^ m. We leave
by the road running N.W. from Belstone Church, and at the distance
of \ m. shall reach the entrance to the old Belstone Rectory, L,. A
short distance inside the gate, and built into the wall on the R., is a
stone with some curious markings, which I have elsewhere noticed.
[Crosses, Chap. XI.] It is about four feet high, and among the devices
incised upon it is a circle enclosing a cross. Passing onward from the
gate we take the first turning L,., which will lead us to the common.
On the brow of the hill is Cleave Tor, or Cleave Rocks, as the mass is
more often called, which it will be readily seen is not of granite forma-
tion. A fine view is obtained from it of Halstock Cleave on the further
side of the Ockment, and of Ashbury Tor (S. Ex. 40). Our next point
will be Chapel Ford, to which the track running near the rock goes
direct (T. 36), but this will not now be the route we shall follow. The
valley, or West Cleave as it is called [Gems, Chap. V.], is worth seeing,
and we shall therefore descend its steep side to the Ockment, reaching
the stream a short distance below the point where Moor Brook flows
out of Halstock Cleave to join it. There is a fine cascade on the river
here. We pass up stream, presently reaching Chapel Ford, whence
the path already described (T. 36) runs up through Halstock Woods.
But we still follow the Ockment, and when we have gone a little further
up the valley shall come in sight of Skir Tor. Soon after passing the
higher end of the woods we reach the pile ; it is not far from the track
leading from Belstone to Crovenor Steps (T. 37, Ex. 16), and opposite
to a farm on the W. side of the river known as East Bowden. Striking
E. from the tor into the track we follow it upwards, turning aside R.
shortly before reaching Watchet Hill, to the circle called the Nine
Stones, and sometimes the Nine Maidens. But as a matter of fact
there are 17 of these, and thus the circle is sometimes known as the
Seventeen Brothers. The circle, which is not of great size, probably
surrounded a kistvaen, though no vestiges of such are now visible ;
96 BELSTONE AND STICKLEPATH DISTRICT.
the stones composing it are rather small. More than one story attaches
to it. It is said that these lumps of granite were once creatures of
flesh and blood — a band of merry maidens, who met here to dance upon
a Sunday. For this wicked act they were turned into stone, and are
compelled to dance every day at noon. That they do so may plainly
be seen when the conditions are favourable. Maiden is, of course, a
corruption of ntaen. On reaching the moor gate we descend the lane
to Belstone.
S. Ex. 42. — The Belstone Ridge and Taw Plain, 6 m. Up the lane
to Watchet Hill, as in Ex. 17. Thence southward along the ridge to
Ock Tor, 2} m. from the village. Descend L,. to the Taw, which will
be struck at its confluence with the Steeperton Brook. Pass up the
R. bank of the latter stream for about | m., then turn N.E. over
Metheral Hill to the source of Small Brook, which follow downward
to the Taw. Down the bank of that river to the fords (Ex. 17), and
thence to Belstone by the track through Birchy Lake.
(Steeperton and Knock Mine Bridge are noticed in Ex. 17).
For White Moor Circle, Wild Tor, and Watern Tor, see Ex. 17, 19.
The routes to the summit of Cosdon are given in the section dealing
with that hill.
For direct route from Belstone to Throvvleigh see S. Ex. 47.
(FROM STICKLEPATH).
S. Ex. 43. — South Tawton, Oxenham, and South Zeal, 3^ in. We
take the eastern road from the village as in Ex. 18, but on crossing
the bridge instead of turning R., or keeping straight on to South Zeal,
shall strike into a narrow lane L. This will bring us to South Tawton,
£ m. distant, a charming example of a Dartmoor border village, with
its playstow and ancient tree. (About 3 m. distant, on the road to
North Tawton, is the fine old mansion of North Week, or Wyke).
Taking the road to the mill E., the visitor will pass this and ascend
the hill to Oxenham Cross, of which monument, however, only a small
fragment now remains. This stands in the hedge I/. [Crosses, Chap.
XII.] Just beyond this on the R. is the entrance to Oxenham, an
eighteenth century farmhouse built on, or near, the site of the ancient
mansion of that name. With the family of Oxenham was connected
the tradition of the White Bird, the notice of which inHowelTs Familiar
Letters has been so often quoted. The White Bird was said to appear
as a forewarning of the death of the head of the family, and sometimes
of that of other of its members. There are many accounts of the
appearance of this mysterious visitor between 1618 and 1873. " How
Mr. Oxenham saw the White Bird " will be well remembered by all
readers of Westward Ho ! A poem has also been written on the
subject.
(If the rambler desires he may extend his walk along the lane for
about \ m. beyond the entrance to Oxenham to Ringhole Copse, at
the eastern end of which is a very fine wayside cross).
Turing from Oxenham Cross the visitor will strike into the lane
opposite to it, and running S., which will bring him in about i m. to
the village of South Zeal. The way now lies through the single long
street of which the place mainly consists, one part of which ascends
the hill north-westward. Formerly this was the coach road, but in a
Shorter Excursions from Belstone and Sticklepath 97
later time a new road was cut, and the descent into South Zeal and the
climb out of it avoided. The latter is the one running by Prospect
Place (Cosdon Section) to Ramsleigh Mine, where it turns abruptly to
the east, and joins the Exeter road again about £ m. E. of the village,
and not far from a little common called Firestone Ley. Most of the
houses in South Zeal are covered with thatch, and have a pleasing
old-world air. Part way up the hill on the L. is the Chapel of St.
Mary and St. Thomas, and near it an ancient cross set in a socket-
stone on a calvary consisting of three steps. A small panel will be
observed on this base, in which are some faint markings. This
inscription was the work of a native of the place called John Stanbury.
[Crosses, Chap. XII.] In 1298 Robert de Toeny, then the holder of
the manor, granted to the inhabitants of South Zeal the right to hold
a market and two fairs annually.
Passing up the steep street the visitor will reach Zeal Head Cross,
or, as it is sometimes called, Townsend Cross, £ m. above the chapel.
This is now only a cross road, but formerly a monument of the kind
indicated by the name stood here, but is said to have been destroyed
by a man named John Orchard, who lived at Ford Farm. Still follow-
ing the road the visitor will in less than \ m. reach the bridge at
Sticklepath.
S. Ex. 44. — Dishcombe and West Week, 4% m. As in the last
excursion the visitor will cross the Taw and bear ~L,. to South Tawton
village. Thence he will follow the road leading to South Zeal as far
as Moon's, or Mohun's, Cross, the remains of which stand on an open
space in front of an old barn. Here the road forks, the point being a
very important one. Travellers from the north would here branch off
according as they were journeying along the northern or the eastern
edge of the moor. Our way will lie to the L., and following the road
south-eastward we shall leave the village of Zeal on our R., and £ m.
from the cross shall pass Dishcombe, and ascend the hill to the Exeter
road a little to the E. of its junction with the new one running on to
Ramsleigh Mine. We cross this and enter a narrow lane, shortly
reaching a gate on the R. Passing through this we find ourselves
in a rough bridle-path, forming one of the means of approach to West
Week. This ancient house, one of the most interesting in this part
of the Dartmoor borderland, was formerly the seat of the Wyke, or
Weekes, family, and also of the Battishills. There is a fine old
embattled gateway, on which is carved the coat of the last-named
and the date 1656. Opposite to this are the remains of an old cross
placed under a tree. Readers of John Herring will remember that it
was to West Week that the father of Mirelle was taken after the carriage
accident. In full view from the house is the slope down which rolled
old Cobbledick's barrel.
The way will now take the visitor past the house and by some fine
old trees to a narrow lane leading down to the main road at Moorview.
On reaching this he will turn R., and passing Ramsleigh Mine and
Prospect Place will return to Sticklepath.
S. Ex. 45. — Cheriton Combe and Payne's Bridge, 5^ m. To Ford
as in the ascent of Cosdon, but on turning I,, when leaving the little
stream keep straight on, between the enclosures, instead of again
turning R. up to the common. Keep a southerly course (there
98 BELSTONE AND STICKLEPATH DISTRICT.
are a few turnings here), and soon the peat road coming up from
Prospect Place (T. 41) will be entered upon. Follow this to the
Cemetery (Cosdon Section), and leaving it there, strike south-eastward
over the common, keeping Cheriton Combe on the R. (Cosdon Section,
Ex. 1 8). On reaching Blackaton Brook cross it and follow the R.
bank down to Payne's Bridge, passing Shilley Pool (Ex. 18) on the way.
From this part of the common the hamlet of East Week, mentioned
in Ex. 1 8, is in full view. The road running through it goes on to
Gooseford, or Goosaford as it is called in the locality, and thence to the
Exeter road near the little village of Wh'ddon Down. L. of East
Week is the farm of Middle Week, and below it, and nearer to the
visitor, is Clannaborough Wood. At the head of this the Blackaton
Brook makes a bend ; its course changing from about N.E. to S.E.
The visitor will cross Payne's Bridge, a small structure of one arch,
and follow the road northward to Moorview at the entrance to West
Week, whence he will return to Sticklepath by the road as in S. Ex. 44.
S. Ex. 46. — Throwleigh, T\ m. Crossing the Taw the visitor will
bear R. as in S. Ex. 45, and follow the road past Prospect Place,
Dry Arch, and Ramsleigh Mine to Moor View. About 100 yards
beyond this the road forks, the L. branch going on through East Week
and Goosaford (see S. Ex. 45), and the R. to Throwleigh and Gidleigh,
The visitor will choose the latter, and speedily reach Payne's Bridge
the route up to this point being the reverse of the latter part of the last
excursion. Just beyond the bridge, and not far from a dwelling-house
which is seen on the side of the hill R., the road to Throwleigh branches
off L., the other running on past Shilstone to Creber Pound and Berry
Down. (See Road Distances'). Striking into this I,, branch the visitor
will soon reach Clannaborough Farm on the verge of the common,
where he will enter upon the enclosed lands. A little further on a
footpath runs across some fields R. direct to Throwleigh village ; the
lane will lead the visitor through a part of Clannaborough Copse.
Throwleigh Church is on the R. as the village is entered. It possesses
several features worthy of notice ; there is a very fine priest's doorway,
and the carving of the ribs and bosses of the roof is good. There is
also a granite tomb in the north wall of the chancel, but as it bears no
inscription much of its interest is unfortunately lost. The lich gate
is ancient, as also is the church house near it. A few score yards east-
ward is an open space usually known as Throwleigh Barton Cross, in
the centre of which is a granite cross standing on a low calvary of the
same, formed by three steps. It was erected, as the inscription upon
it shows, in 1897. Only the base, or socket-stone, is ancient.
[Crosses, Chap. XIII. 1 From the gate of the churchyard a lane runs
southward up the hill to Shilstone Farm (Ex. 18), on the verge of the
common. This the visitor will follow, taking care not to turn L. at
the southern corner of the graveyard into Deave Lane. Shilstone is
rather less than £ m. from the village. The farmhouse, like most of
the older border dwellings, is surrounded by some fine trees, and is a
good specimen of the habitations of the yeomen of two or three centuries
since.
From the farm the rambler will pass on to the common, where he
will find himself close to Shilstone Tor, from which point he may return
to Sticklepath by either of the routes described in Ex. 18 and S. Ex. 45.
If the latter, via Payne's Bridge, the distance will be about f m. less.
EXCURSIONS FROM THROWLEIGH.
TO BEDSTONE).
99
S. Ex. 47. — Via White Moor Stone, 6.m. The first point will be
Shilstone Farm. The rambler will strike W. by S. up over Shilstone
Hill, leaving White Moor Marsh I,., to Kennon Hill (Ex. 18). This he
will cross to the bondstone on the Gallaven track (T. 42), and thence
proceed westward to White Moor Stone. Directions for reaching
Belstone from this object are given in Ex. 17, but Brook Hill and White
Hill may be left a little to the R. in descending to the fords on the Taw.
The straight course to these from White Moor Circle is N.W. by N.
Via North end of Raybarrow Pool, 5 m. This, the more direct
route, passes exactly i m. N. of White Moor Stone. Prom Shilstone
Farm the course is W.N.W. by W. Blackaton Brook is crossed at,
or near, the lower ford of the Gallaven track (T. 42), and the Peat
Road (T. 41) a little to the northward of Raybarrow Pool. The next
point is White Hill, whence the rambler descends to the fords on the
Taw (Ex. 17), leaving Taw Marsh on his L,. There is no difficulty in
striking a bee-line, the ground being good throughout the whole
distance. Conversely the points from Belstone will be the fords
above Birchy Lake ; thence E.S.E. to the summit of White Hill ;
thence, following the same course, to the northern end of Raybarrow
Pool ; and then bearing a trifle more E. to the Blackaton Brook and
Shilstone Farm.
Steeperton Tor.
The Taw.
FROM TAW PI,AIN, BOOKING S.
TOO ROUTE 24. OKEHAMPTON TO CHAGFORD.
Routes from Okehampton, Belstone
and Sticklepath.
(Return not included in the distances given).
R. 24. — To Chagford and Moreton, S.E. by E. (A) Crovenor
Steps, Fords on the Taw, North end of Raybarrow Pool, Shilstone Tor,
thence by road. C, II m. ; M, 15^ m. Reverse, R. 38 A. (B) Cro-
venor Steps, Small Brook Foot, White Moor Stone, Berry Down, thence
by road. Distance about the same. Reverse, R. 38 B.
[Objects: Ex. 16, 17, 18, 19.]
From Belstone the route will lie (A) through Birchy Lake to the
fords on the Taw, i£ m. (B) to Small Brook Foot, J m. further up
the stream. In the latter case it will be well not to cross the Taw until
arriving at Small Brook, and so avoid the marsh on the R. bank. The
distance is about 2 m. less than from Okehampton.
From Sticklepath the road is followed to Payne's Bridge as in
S. Ex. 46, thence keeping R. at the fork just beyond it to Shilstone
Tor. C, 7$ m. ; M, 12^ m.
(A) Setting out from Okehampton the rambler will first make his
way to the brow of the hill near Fitz's Well, as in Ex. 15, and thence by
the gate L. to Halstock, as described in the route to Belstone, T. 36. On
reaching the entrance to Chapel Lands the road running to the moor
gate near Halstock Pound is followed, from which point a short track
runs S. past Halstock Corner to Kelly's Corner, where is a stone mark-
ing the boundary of land belonging to the parish of Lydford, and lying
outside the forest limits as now recognized. The next point is Cro-
venor Steps,* £ m. S.S.E., and the road is then followed up the hill to
Winter Tor, with Higher Tor L. (Ex. 17). From Winter Tor the
rambler will descend to the fords on the Taw, rather over £ m. E.
From this point the directions for reaching Shilstone Tor as given in
S. Ex. 47 must be followed. Here the road will be struck, and the
* On the East Ockment. The following lines are from Miss Sophie
Dixon's poem on this river (1830) : —
Startmg in hoary gush his waters roll
Their battling strength, and with the crags contend ;
Till gentler scenes his turbulence control,
And the green branches o'er his bosom bend.
A voice of waves comes swelling up the glen,
Where torn mid rocky chinks the cataracts play ;
Now heard like heaven's own thunderings, and then
On the gale's softest murmur soothed away.
Route 25. Okehampton and Belstone to Bovey Tracey. 101
rambler will turn S., reaching Forder Bridge in J m. Forder Brook is
a small tributary of Blackaton Brook, falling into it at Blackaton
Bridge, not far from the hamlet of Providence Place. Soon after
crossing the brook Great and Little Ensworthy Farms are passed L. ;
Buttern House is seen on the moor R. A little further on the road
enters the enclosures at Moortown, and here it forks. The R. branch
must be followed for £ m. to the entrance to Thule. Turn into this
to the farm L., whence a footpath across some fields runs S.E. towards
Gidleigh. This will bring the rambler to a steep hill down which
he will pass for a few yards, and then turn R. The old manor pound
will be seen L., and just beyond it is Gidleigh village, from which the
road will be followed down to Highbury Bridge, where Blackaton Brook
is crossed. It then ascends to Murchington, i£ m. from Gidleigh, and
runs down Walland Hill to Chagford Bridge. This part of the road is
noticed in our account of Chagford District.
(B) To Crovenor Steps and Winter Tor as in the preceding route.
Thence down the hill S.E. to Small Brook Foot (Ex. 17), and up
Metheral Hill, with Small Brook L. and Steeperton Brook R., the course
being the same until abreast of the source of the former, when the
rambler will bend a little L., and on reaching the top of Hound Tor
Ridge will pass the White Moor Circle I,., and make his way to White
Moor Stone (Ex. 17). The course will now be S.E. by E. across the
shoulder of Kennon Hill, the head of White Moor Bottom, and Buttern
Down, to the stroll above Berry Down (Ex. 19), a distance of 2 m.
(Buttern Down is noticed in Ex. 18, 19). At the bottom of Berry
Down Stroll, which is referred to in the Chagford District, the rambler
will turn into the lane R., and passing Berry Down Farm, will descend
the hill, with Gidleigh village L., to Highbury Bridge, whence he will
proceed to Chagford as in the former route.
The road from Chagford to Moreton is described in the account
of that district.
R. 25. — To Bovey Tracey, S.E. by E. The best route is through
Chagford, following the instructions given in R. 24, 31, 22 m.
Reverse, R. 46, 38. But should the rambler prefer to go by way of
the moor instead of partly through lanes, the directions for doing so
are here furnished.
White Moor Stone, Teign Clapper, South Teign, Bovey River,
Hookney Down, Heather combe, Heytree Cross, Swine Down Gate, Leighon,
Trendlebere Down, Lower Down Cross. Distance about the same.
Reverse, R. 45.
Visitors from Belstone and Sticklepath will join these routes as in
R. 24, except that if the moor route be chosen those from Sticklepath
will leave the road at Ensworthy, and strike S. across the side of
Buttern Hill towards the Creber enclosures, passing between them L-,
and a newtake, disconnected with others, on the hillside R. Still keep-
ing S. Teign Clapper will be reached from this point in about i m.
[Objects : Ex. 17 to 24.]
For the first few miles the route will be the same as R. 24 B, but
on reaching the side of Kennon Hill after leaving White Moor Stone
(Ex. 17), the rambler will bear S.E., a course that will bring him in
about 2 m. to the great stone circle on Scorhill Down (Ex. 19). Near
this is Teign Clapper, where he will cross the North Teign immediately
102 Route 26. Okehampton and Belstone to Ashburton.
below where it receives the Walla Brook. The course is then up the hill
S.S.E. to Shovel Down, with the Batworthy enclosures L., and across
the site of the stone remains described in Ex. 20. Beyond Batworthy
Corner, still following the same course with Kes Tor L., the rambler
will make his way to the Long Stone, ij m. from the circle at Scorhill.
Thence the way lies down the hill to the South Teign. If this cannot
be crossed here it must be followed up for a short distance to Fern-
worthy Bridge (Ex. 20), when the rambler will make his way back by
the road to the wall of the Metheral enclosures, and at the corner of
these, where it turns abruptly to the L. near a rivulet, will leave it
and strike up over the common, his course being due S. He must
avoid keeping to the L. of this line, as should he do so he will strike
Metheral Bogs (S. Ex. 58). When abreast of the head of this mire
the course must be changed to E.S.E., and followed for over 3 m. to
Heathercombe. First the valley of the Bovey River, or as it is usually
called in this part of its course, the Hurston Water, is crossed ; then
the Princetown and Moreton road ; then (about £ m. further on) the
Challacombe road ; and then Hookney Down. This should bring the
rambler to King's Barrow, a small tumulus near to which is a kistvaen
(Ex. 22). Rather over £ m. beyond this, the course being still E.S.E.,
is Heathercombe (S. Ex. 62), where he will enter upon a lane.
This is followed past Hey tree to Hey tree Cross, about £ m., at which
point he will turn R. into the Ashburton road. This will lead him
along the edge of Cripdon Down and Swine Down to Swine Down Gate,
locally Swallerton Gate, i| in. from the cross road (Ex. 24). Passing
through this he will turn L. and follow a narrow lane leading down
into the valley of the Becky Brook. Hound Tor is seen boldly placed
on the hill R. Soon after entering upon the enclosed land, a narrow
road branches I,, to Great Hound Tor Farm, but the rambler will bear
R. to the stream. There he will cross Leighon Bridge, and make his
way up the hill past the house of that name to the common, and follow
the road for rather over \ m. to another that comes L. from Manaton.
This he will cross, and striking a little S. of E. over the down, will
descend the hill to a corner of Yarner Wood, about £ m. distant, where
he will find himself on the Lower Terrace Drive. Turning R. into this
he will be led over Trendlebere Down to the east side of the wood.
Keep R. to the guide-post near one of the entrances to Yarner. (The
house was once known as Chad Wycke). Here the road runs along
the foot of Lower Down for nearly i m. to Lower Down Cross. At
this point the rambler will turn down the hill L., and in about £ m.
will reach Bovey Station.
R. 26. — To Ashburton, S.E. by S. White Moor Stone, Teign
Clapper, South Teign, Warren House Inn, Grendon Bridge, Bittleford
Down, Cockingford, Buckland-in-the-Moor, 22% m. Reverse, R. 52.
Belstone and Sticklepath visitors will join this route as described
in R. 25.
[Objects : Ex. 17 to 22, 44 and 26.]
For the first 10 miles this route is identical with R. 25 (the moor
route), but when the rambler is abreast of the head of Metheral Bogs,
his course, instead of being changed to E.S.E., will lie over Hurston
Ridge and the E. slope of Watern Hill, a little E. of S. This will bring
him in about I J m. to the Warren House Inn, on the Princetown and
Moreton road. Immediately in front of this hostelry a footpath runs
Route 27. Okehampton to Brent and Ivybridge. 103
to Golden Dagger Mine, first crossing a leat and then the Walla Brook.
The rambler will follow it until he has passed over the latter (less
than £ m) and will then turn due S. This course will take him. over
Soussons Common to the Post Bridge and Widecombe road at the
point known as Ephraim's Pinch (Ex. 44), i£ m. distant. About
midway he will pass a group of tumuli. On reaching the road he
must turn L-, or eastward, and descending Ephraim's Pinch, follow
it to Grendon Bridge on the West Webburn. The way then lies by
Hill Head to Lower Blackaton, as in R. 5, C. Here the Broadford
Brook is crossed, and the road R. is followed southward over Bittleford
Down. (Pass three turnings R. See R. 33). Near the S.E. corner
of this it joins the road from Ponsworthy to Widecombe. Here the
rambler turns L. for a few hundred yards, and then down the hill R.
to Cockingford (R. 5 A). £ m. beyond this is a turning R. into which
the rambler will strike, and will be led in i m. to the church of Buckland-
in-the-Moor. From this point Ashburton is 3-^ m. distant, the road,
which is noticed in the account of that district, running in a south-
easterly direction.
R. 27.— To Brent and Ivybridge, S.S.E. to S. by E. Neiv Bridge,
Ockment Hill, Cranmere, East Dart Valley, Broad Down, Hollow Combe,
Muddy Lakes, Prince Hall Bridge, Fo% Tor, Black Lane, Red Lake
Ford, Western Whitaburrow, Shipley, Brent. (To Ivybridge from Black
Lane : Erme Head, Green Bottom, Valley of the Ernie, Harford Bridge).
To Brent, 26 m. ; to Ivybridge, 27 m. Reverse, R. 63. To Cornwood
see R. 28.
Visitors from Belstone and Sticklepath will join this route at Cran-
mere (C.R. 10).
[Objects are noticed in Ex. 15 and 16 ; in C.R. 9 and 17 ; and
Ex. 45, 46, 3, 4, 30, and 33.]
The first part of this route in described in Ex. 16 and C.R. 9,
\\hich together give directions for reaching Cranmere Pool, and in C.R.
17, which will show the way from the pool down the upper valley of
the East Dart. But on reaching Sandy Hole (Ex. 45) the directions
given in C. R. 17 must no longer be followed. The rambler must there
leave the river and strike due S. across Broad Down for i m., when he
will reach Hollow Combe, through which the Cherry Brook runs. He
will cross this just where the great reave (Ex. 46) is seen running up
the precipitous side of the hill R. to Lower White Tor, and still follow-
ing a course due S., with the Powder Mills Cottages L., will in 2 m. reach
the Princetown and Moreton road. This must be crossed, and a
course still due S. be kept over Muddy Lakes to Prince Hall Lodge,
about i m. distant. The rambler will then follow the road to Prince
Hall Bridge, as described in Ex. 4. Passing a few hundred yards up
the lane he will take the first turning R. and make his way by Moorlands
to Tor Royal Newtake close by (Ex. 4). Here he will again turn due
S., his point being Fox Tor, and in about i£ m. will reach the Swin-
combe River. He should strike this near the point where the Wheal
Emma Leat is taken in from the stream, close to which is a ford (Ex. 3).
From this crossing-place he may either make his way direct to Fox
Tor, which he will see above him (with Childe's Tomb on the plain
ground at its foot), or keep L. and follow up the stream towards the
ruined Fox Tor farmhouse, and then ascend the hill with the tor R.
104 Route 28. Okehampton to Cornwood and Plympton.
Black Lane commences to the S. of the tor, and this will now form his
path. (See T. 75, Ex. 3, and R. 7). On reaching the head of the great
stream-work the rambler will find himself near Ducks' Pool, and on
the route from Princetown to Brent, which latter is about j\ m. in a
south-easterly direction (R. 7), and to this he is referred. If his
destination be Ivybridge, 8£ m. S., he will follow Dark Lake downward
to the stream-work at Erme Head, from which point directions for
reaching that place are given in R. 7.
R. 28. — To Cornwood, Ilympton, and Shaugh. The first a little
E. of S. ; the others a little W. of S. Dinner Plain, Broad Amicombe
Hole, Tavy Hole, Walkham Head, Rundle Stone, Princetown, Nosworthy
Bridge, Sheeps Tor, Cadaford Bridge. To Cornwood, 27 m. ; Plympton,
27 m. ; Shaugh, 24 m. Reverse, R. 70. This route is identical with
R. 29 and R. 8, q.v.
R. 29. — To Princetown, with branch to Two Bridges, and routes
from Belstone and Sticklepath, S. Dinger Plain, Broad Amicombe
Hole, Tavy Hole, Walkham Head, Rundle Stone, Princetown, 15^ m.
To Two Bridges via Walkham Head : Conies Down, Lich Path,
Cowsic Valley, 14 m. From Belstone to Princetown, via Black-
aven and Brim Brook, or via Taw Head and Little Kneeset, 14^ m.
Belstone to Two Bridges : Taw Head, East Dart Head, Broad Marsh,
Broad Down, West Dart Valley, I2f m. ; from Taw Head via Cut Hill,
13 m. Reverses, R. 3.
[Objects: Exs. 15, 10, 6, 5, n ; and C.R. 2, 10, 17.]
The first point will be Moor Gate, whence the track to Dinger
Plain (T. 34) will be followed as in Ex. 15, but will not be left until the
rambler reaches Dinger Tor. The next point is Broad Amicombe Hole,
the dip which will be seen to the R. of Great Kneeset (R. 3), but it
will not be wise to make direct for it, as it may not be possible to cross
the West Ockment so low down. We shall therefore strike S., and in
£ m. shall reach Kneeset Nose, following the Brim Brook to the river,
and near this shall have no difficulty in finding a crossing-place. On
reaching the L. bank of the Ockment we make our way downward in
a S.S.W. direction, to the bend £ m. distant. We then leave the
stream and climb the hill to Broad Amicombe Hole, £ m., our course
being altered to S.W. We now follow the infant Amicombe, which
here runs due S., downward for i m., to where it receives the Cut
Combe Water (Ex. n, Extension), which is the second tributary
flowing into it on the L. Here we cross the stream, and still pursuing
a southerly course, shall pass over the shoulder of Fur Tor to Tavy
Hole, £ m., which the rambler should reach just where the Fur Tor
Brook runs into the Tavy. (Care must be taken not to keep too
far up the side of Fur Tor on leaving the Amicombe, or the rambler
will find himself amid a clatter, where progress will be slow ; nor must
he keep too near the river, or he will get into boggy ground). If noth-
ing is seen of the tiny Fur Tor Brook the rambler will be nearer than
he ought to be to the Amicombe ; if he is higher than his line to the
confluence should bring him, he will strike it shortly before reaching the
Tavy. This, indeed, is as it should be, for the exact point he has to
reach is £ m. above the confluence ; if he strikes the latter, therefore,
he will follow up the Tavy for that distance. Looking back he should
Route 30. Okehampton to Lydford and Tavistock. 105
now see Fur Tor N.E. by N. The next point is Walkham Head (Ex. 10),
but a straight course up the hill must not be followed, or the rambler
•will get into a bad piece of fen. (See R. 3). His line should be S.W. for
about \ m. and then he must turn due S., when he will pass over some
old turf ties, and reach the stream in a little over \ m. This he will
cross just above its first bend, and will shortly find himself on the old
peat track that runs into Peter Tavy (T. 16). This passes down the
shallow valley about ^ m. from the L. bank of the stream, and must
be followed for f m. to the head of the Prison Leat, which will now
become the rambler's guide. (See Ex. 5 and 6). It will lead him
between Black Dunghill (L) and Great Mis Tor (R) to Rundle Stone
(or the Prison enclosures near it), whence the road rurs direct to Prince-
town.
To Two Bridges from Walkham Head. When rather less than
\ m. down the peat track (T. 16) the rambler must leave it and strike
S.E., and in £ m. he will reach a ford on Spriddle Lake, where he will
cross that little tributary. Soon after this, the course being the same,
he will cross another rivulet in Nipper's Hole, a shallow hollow which
branches from Spriddle Combe and runs up under Maiden Hill. From,
this point he will bear a trifle S. of S.E. and pass over Conies Down to
the Lich Path (T. 18), rather over \ m. distant. Crossing this old
track he will make his way for another mile to the Cowsic, which he
will strike below Broad Hole, i m. Two Bridges is about 2| m. distant,
the way thither being described in Ex. 5.
Belstone to Princetown. (A) Via Broad Amicombe Hole. This
is the reverse of the branch described in R. 3. To the moor gate at
Watchet Hill, and thence by the road S.W. to Crovenor Steps. Cross
the East Ockment and follow the Blackaven to its source. Strike
S.S.W. to Brim Brook Head, and trace that stream to the Ockment
at Kneeset Nose. Here that river must be crossed and followed
•downward for % m. to the sharp bend as described above. (Another
way is by Taw Head and Cranmere, C.R. 10, C.R. i).
(B) Via Two Bridges. Taw Head as in C. R. 10. Then strike
due S. over the fen, the plateau on the edge of which Cranmere Pool
is situated being R. and Newtake (Ex. 19, Extension) on the L., to
East Dart Head, the distance being under £ m. Thence as in C. R. 2.
[Should the visitor desire to take in Cut Hill on his journey, he
•will leave Dart Head I,, and strike S.W. by S. for | m. up the side of
Black Hill, and then turn S. by W. The summit of Cut Hill is now
about i£ m. distant, the way lying over Flatters, where the ground
is seamed with narrow crevices. An easier way is to follow the Dart
for about i£ m. from its source, when the summit of the hill will bear
about W.S.W., and then to make for a point a little to the R. of it,
crossing the Cut Hill stream, here a tiny rivulet trickling through the
peat, on the way ; on reaching the top of the ridge bear I,, and make
straight for the summit. For a notice of the hill see Ex. 1 1 , Extension,
where also routes to Princetown and Two Bridges are given.]
R. 30.— To Lydford and Tavistock, S.W. by S.
(A) BY ROAD. (See road distances). To the fork 2^ m. from the
town ; take R. branch and pass under the railway bridge to the stone
cross on the L- of the way (S. Ex. 34) ; Prewley Moor, Sourton, Lake,
Southerly, Fox and Hounds. (Turn R. for Bridestowe Station),
io6
Route 30. Okehampton to Tavistock.
Vale Down, Dartmoor Inn. (Turn R. for Lydford). Skit Bridge,
Black Down, Lane Head, Wringworthy Hill, Tavistock. 16 m.
Reverse, R. 16 and 9 A.
[Objects : Ex. 1 5 to 9.]
(B) To TAVISTOCK BY WAY OF THE MOOR. Dinger Plain, Broad
Amicombe Hole, Tavy Hole, Walkham Head, Sandy Ford, Peter Tavy,
1 8 m. Reverse, R. 9 B.
[Objects: Ex. 15, 14, 10, 8.]
The route to Walkham Head is described in R. 29. When the
rambler reaches the peat track (T. 1 6) on the east side of the Walkham,
he will follow it down to the first ford, immediately below Timber
Bridge (Ex. 10). Here the stream is crossed, and the track followed up
the rising ground above the western bank, and through the cut between
Stooky Moor and Green Hill on the R., and Cocks' Hill on the L. It
soon afterwards bends L. (Ex. 8, Extension), and the rambler following
it will have the enclosures above Wapsworthy (Ex. 8, Extension) on
his R. He will then pass on by the Long Stone and Stephens' Grave,
as described in Ex. 8, to Twyste Lane, on making his way through
which his green track will lead him to the Godsworthy road. Instruc-
tions are given in the excursion named for reaching Peter Tavy from
this point, and the road over Harford Bridge (see Road Distances) is
followed to Tavistock.
The rambler from Belstone will strike this route at Kneeset No.<e.
His first point will be Crovenor Steps (T. 37), and he will then follow
the Blackaven to its source. Thence S. by W. for -i- m. to the head
of Brim Brook, which he will trace down to its confluence with the
West Ockment at the Nose.
Belstone Tor.
FROM CROVENOR STEPS, BOOKING E.
C. R. 8, 9. OKEHAMPTON TO CRANMERE. 107
ROUTES TO CRANMERE.
C. R. 8.— From OKEHAMPTON (A) via West Ockment Valley,
7| m. Fishcombe Head and Black Tor as in S. Ex. 36. Keep the tor
R. Then strike S.E. by S. above Black Tor Copse, drawing near
Sandy Ford on the Ockment, i m. from the tor, but not descending to
it. Thence over Lints Tor, keeping the rocks R., to Kneeset Nose,
where Brim Brook falls into the river. Cranmere is i£ m. S.E. by S.
of this, but that course must not be followed, as it would lead the
rambler through boggy ground. Strike due E. for \ m., taking care
not to bear too much I,., when the Ockment will again be met. The
little lateral valley L. at this point, in which there are streaming
remains, is Vergyland Combe. This runs up northward, and must be
crossed near its foot, and the Ockment followed to its source. One
little feeder falls into it above the combe. Here the Ockment is the
L. branch. As already stated Cranmere is close to the head of the
stream.
(B) via Dinger, 7 m. Moor Gate ; Creaber's Hole ; as in Ex. 15.
Thence by the L,. track over Dinger Plain southward (T. 34). I^eave
Dinger Tor R. (£ m. S.E. by S. of High Willes), and descend to Brim
Brook, which will be struck near its source. Thence the way is S.E.
across the side of Ockment Hill to the head of Vergyland Combe,
about \ m. (see A). On leaving Brim Brook keep a little L., the lower
ground R. being bad around its source. If the S.E. line is followed
there will be no difficulty in reaching the combe. On crossing the
latter bear a little R., and the Ockment will soon be struck (see end of A).
C. R. g.—From OKEHAMPTON via New Bridge, 6-J- m. Sum-
mit of Ockment Hill, as in Ex. 16 and T. 35. From this point, which
is about £ m. S. of the old wall (Ex. 16) the head of Vergyland Combe
is -J- m. S.W. (C. R. 8, a, b). Cranmere is i £ m. due S. There is some
broken ground between, and it is not advisable to pursue a direct
course. The rambler should bear a little R. in order to strike the
Ockment about £ m. below the pool (see end of C. R. 8a).
Another way from the summit of Ockment Hill is to bear S.E. to
the Taw, but it is further. C.R. 10.
The return route to Okehampton by way of New Bridge forms
the latter part of R. 63. The rambler will follow the Ockment down-
ward for about -J- m., and then strike N. to the New Bridge track, i m.
(T. 35). This he will follow to the bridge, and thence to the town as in
Ex. 14, 15. If he desires to go by way of Dinger he will strike N.W.
by N. when £ m. down the Ockment, and so onward across Vergyland
Combe to Brim Brook, taking Willes for his guide. When the weather
is clear the track he is making for near Dinger Tor can be seen from the
pool. On reaching this (T. 34) he will turn into it R. and follow it to
Moor Gate and the town.
io8
C. R. 10, 11. Belstone to Cranmere.
Cut Hill. Black Ridge.
FROM SOUTHERN SI.OPE OF OCKMENT HII,!,, ABOUT £ M. S.E. OF SUBMIT
C. R. 10. — From BELSTONE via the Taw, s| m. The way lies
by Watchet Hill to Oke Tor, 2^ m., and thence to Knock Mine, i m.,
as in Ex. 17. From that point the river is followed to its source, from
which Cranmere is less than \ m. distant W. by S. The ground between
the head of the stream and "the pool is rather spongy, but will present
no difficulties. Care must be taken not to keep too much to the L. or
the pool may be missed. It is better to steer W., which course, if it
does not bring the rambler to his goal, will at all events bring him to
the Ockment — here a tiny rivulet — which he will follow up to the
pool.
The return to Belstone forms the latter part of R. 63. Strike
E.N.E. or N.E. from the pool, and in £ m. the Taw will be seen R.
Trace it down to Knock Mine Bridge, then mount the L. bank and
follow the track by Oke Tor along the ridge to Watchet Hill (Ex. 17).
A camp road runs up W. of the Taw, and crosses it near its head.
From STICKLEPATH the route is first to Belstone; thence
C. R. 10. Or C. R. ii may be followed, the Peat Road being reached
by way of Cosdon. A path runs up through the wood from near
Sticklepath Bridge to the common (see ante, Cosdon, B). From the
summit of Cosdon keep S. till the track is struck.
C. R. ii.— From SOUTH ZEAL, 6 m., and THROWLEIGH,
6 m. The Peat Road (T. 41 ) is followed past Raybarrow Pool to the
stone circle, where visitors from Throwleigh join it, making their way
thither by the track from Clannaborough Down to the E. side of Ray-
barrow Pool (T. 42), or by Shilstone, when \ m. will be saved. From
the circle the track goes on below Wild Tor Ridge L. to Bow Combe,
at the head of which is Bow Combe Hill, L. Cross Steeperton Brook
to Ockside Hill, on which are some cairns and a small pool. Strike
over this ridge S.W. to the Taw, and follow it to its head. Thence as
in C. R. 10.
The return to the Taw is also as in C. R. 10. Follow it down a
little way, and then strike N.E. into the track.
Index.
Allaclauns 17
Amicombe Hill . . 45, 48, 57
Annie Pinkham's Men . . 17
Anthony Stile 70
Anns Tor, 49 ; Rings . . 49
Ashbury Tor 95
Ashburys, The 17
B
Bagga Tor .. .. 18, 33, 34
Ball Hill 63
Barrett's Bridge .. .. 17
Barton's Hill, The . . 63, 65
Battishill Down 49
Beardon, Higher, 31 ; Lower, 31
Belstone.8 1 ; Cleave.8 1 ; Range,82
Berry Down 91
Birchy Lake . . 84, 85, 87
Black Down (Mary Tavy),
17 et seq ; 24.
Black Down (Okehampton), 66
Black Hill 45
Black Lane . . . . 34, 36
Black Lion Down . . . . 16
Black Ridge 44
Black Tor (Ockment) 67, 94
Black Tor Copse . . . . 50, 67
Blackaton Brook . . . . 89
Blackaton Hole . . . . 90
Blackaven, The 77, 80, 94
Blowing Stone 3
Bow Combe 108
Bra Tor 46, 54
Branscombe's Loaf . . 52, 54
Brent Tor . . . . 22, 24, 53
Bridges, William . . . . 64
Brim Brook . . 68, 104, 107
Broad Amicombe Hole . . 68
Brook Hill 84
Brook's Head . . . . 28, 34
Buddla Lane 16
Bude Lane . . . . 65
Burn Valley 21
Burrow Cleave 66
Buttern Down, 90 ; Hill 90
Cataloo Steps 37
Celtic Names 38
Cemetery, The . . 86, 88, 98
Chapel Ford, 64 ; Lands . . 64
Chat Tor 46
Cheriton Combe 86, 89, 97
Cholwell Brook 17
Church Lane (Tavy) . . 1 3, 56
Clannaborough Copse, 98 ;
Down, 83, 88, 90 ; Wood, 98
Cleave Tor 65;
Cocks' Hill . . . . 34, 106
Cocks' Tor Hill . . . . 8, 9, 24.
Combe Down 49-
Combeshead Farm . . . . 65
Corn Hole, 55, 67 ; Ridge. . 52
Cosdon, . . . . 82, 85 et seq.
Cranmere Pool . . 28, 57, 107
Creaber's Hole 70
Creber Pound 91
Crocker's Pits .. .. 52, 68
Crovenor Steps . . 76, 80, 94
Cudlipp Town 12
Curtory Glitters . . 77, 94
Cut Combe, 45 ; Hill, 42, 44,
105 ; Lane, 45.
D
Dartmoor Inn (Lydford),
47-
Dartmoor Inn (Merivale)
Deadlake Well .. . .
Devil's Point
Dick's Well . .
Dinger Plain . . 72,
Dishcombe
Doe Tor, 46 ; Brook
Down Lane
Dry Arch
Ducky Pool
Dunnagoat Tors, The
25, 46,
26
10
•• 39
. . 47
80, 94
. . 97
.. 46
31, 32
.. 98
.. 85
. . 47
Eagle Rock, The (Taw) . . 83
East Bridge 6$
no
INDEX.
East Down
East Hill .
East Tor .
Ensworthy,
Hill
Fatherf ord
Firestone Ley . .
Fishcombe Water
Fitz's Well (Oke)
Flatters
63
63
52
90
.. 65
.. 97
.. 66
63, 69
44, 105
Flock o' Sheep 84
Frenchmen's Grave, The.. 33
Fur Tor, 28, 41, 104 ; Wood, 42
Ford 88
Forder Brook .. 90, 91, 101
Forsland Ledge 50, 68, 74
Forstall Cross 32
Fox and Hounds Hotel, 52, 58
Foxhole 46
Gallaven Ford 83
Ger Tor 39, 4°
Gibbet Hill, 19 et seq. . . 24
Gidleigh 90
Gooseford 98
•Goosey Creep 17
Green Gert 40
Green Hill (Lich Path), 34, 106
Green Tor, 47 ; Water . . 47
•Gren Tor 50
H
Hall Farm 32
Halstock, 64, 80 ; Chapel, 64,
95 ; Cleave, 95 ; Down, 64,
80 ; Farm, 80 ; Pound, 80 ;
Wood, 64.
Hangingstone Hill . . 82, 83
Hare Tor 38, 53
Harford Bridge (Tavy) . . 16
Hart Tor (Okehampton), 76 ;
Hill, 78.
Hawks' Hollow . . . . 67
Heather Knoll 95
Henscott Plantations 32, 38
Herring Arms, The . . 21, 57
High Down 46
High Willes . . 50, 68, 72
Highbury Bridge . . . . 101
Higher Bowden Steps, 66, 93
Higher Tor 82
Hill Bridge ..13, 24, 36, 53
Holditch 17
Homerton Hill 66
Horndon Down Bridge, 18, 53
Hound Tor 83
Huckworthy Common . . 27
Hunt Tor 48, 50
Hut, The 50
Important Points i, 30, 60
Ina's Combe 16
Inscribed Stones 81, 92, 95
Irishman's Wall . . 77, 82
Irishmen's House . . . . 88
Iron Gate 21
Iron Gates 52, 67
Island of Rocks, 54, 67, 93
Ivy Tor Water . . . . 84, 87
Jackman's Bottom . . . . 68
Jockey Down's House 25, 92
K
Kelly's Corner 80
Kennon Hill . . 83, 89, 90
Ker Beam 46
Kes Tor 102
King Way, The . . 32, 49, 52
Kingsett Down 17
Kitty Tor 48
Kneeset Foot, 68 ; Great, 58, 68 ;
Little, 42 ; Nose, 68 ; Pan,
58.
Knock Mine Bridge . . 83
Knoll 40
Lady Well . .
Lake, 53 ; Down
Lane End . , . .
Lane Head
Langstone Circle
.. 81
49, 53
1 6, 39
.. 16
10, 24
Lich Path, The, 10, n, 26, 31
Limsboro 1 8
Linch Tor 34
Links Tor, Great, 47, 48, 54 ;
Little, 48.
Lints Tor, 68 ; Brook . . 69
Longbetor 33
Longstone Hill 66
Lord Mayor's Castle . . 40
INDEX.
I II
Lower Town 53
Lyd, The, 49 ; Head, 50 ; Valley
of, 46, 54.
Lydda Bridge 50
Lydford, 25, 30, 37 ; Gorge, 30
M
Maiden Hill ..... . . 105
Manor Hotel (Lydford), 30, 32
:Mary Tavy ; 14 ; Clam, 14, 24
Maunder's Brake .. .. 17
Meads, The 40
Meldon Gorge, 50, 66, 93 ;
Viaduct, 66.
Merivale Antiquities, 23 (See
Part I.)
Metheral Hill, 82 ; Hole . . 83
Middle Hill 78, 82
Mil Tor, East, 78 ; West, 68, 69,
75, 94-
Mis Tor, 7 (See Part I.)
Moon's Cross 97
Moor Brook . . 63, 64, 70
Moor Gate (Oke) 69, 70, 76
Moortown (Gidleigh) . . 101
Moortown (Whitchurch) . . 3, 4
Mount Tavy 3, 8
N
Nat Tor 39
New Bridge (Blackaven), 76, 77
.. 82, 95
•• 76, 77
. . • • 34
Nine Maidens
New Bridge
Ninny Lake
Nipper's Hole
105
Noddon, 49, 54 ; Ford, 49 ;
Gate, 49.
O
Ockment, East, 78 ; West, 66,
et seq.
Ockment Farm, East . . 80
Ockment Hill 78
Ockside Hill 82
Okehampton, 61, 63 ; Camp, 62 ;
Chase, 75 ; Park, 66.
Oxenham 96
Payne's Bridge .. .. 91, 97
Peter Tavy, 13, 14; Combe, 12,
24.
Pinswell 45
Pixies' Parlour
Plaster Down
Prewley Moor
Prospect Place
Put Tor
Pudhanger . .
Putty Moor
. . 90
3. 23
•• 53
88, 89
4, 23
70, 76
.. 36
R
Rabbits' Holt 88
Ramsleigh Mine . . . . 88
Rattle Brook . . . . 40, 46
Rattle Brook Hill . . . . 47
Raybarrow Pool 83, 89, 99
Red Lake, Homer, 40 ; Outer, 40
Redaven, The 66
Redford 18, 32
Rinr o' Bells . . . . 18, 32
Risdon, Tristram . . . . 37
Rithy Pits 78
Rival Tor 90
Rogues' Roost 4
Roose Tor 9, 10
Row Tor (Oke), 68, 94 ; Combe,
76.
Ruelake Pit 90
Sampford Spiney . . . . 6
Sandy Ford (Amicombe) . . 41
Sandy Ford (W. Ockment) <o
68.
Sandy Ford (Walkham), 26, 28
Sandy Hole. 26 (See Part I.)
Scad, The (Rattle Brook). . 46
Scorhill Down 101
Setters 12
Sharp Tor (Tavy) . . . . 39
Shilstone Hill 88
Shilstone Tor (W. Ockment), 54
Shilstone Tor (Throwleigh), 91
Shilley Pool 92
Shovel Down, 90, 102 (See
Part III.)
Skit, The (E. Ockment), 78 ;
Bottom, 78.
Skit Bridge (Lyd), 25 ; Lane, 46
Slipper Stones, The, 50, 51, 68
Small Brook .. .". 82, 84
Smeardon Down . . . . 12
Snap 18, 32
South Tawton, 87, 88, 96 ;
Common, 92.
112
INDEX.
South Zeal . . . . 96, 97
Sourton, 52 ; Common, 52, 93 ;
Down, 92 ; Tors, 52, 54.
Soussons Common, . . 103
Southerly Down . . . . 49
Spriddle Combe . . . . 105
Square Seat 2
Standon Farm, 33 ; Steps . . 36
Standon Hill, 36 ; Houses. . 36
Staple Tors, The . . 9, 23
Steeperton Brook, 82 ; Gorge,
82 ; Hill, 83, 84 ; Tor, 82.
Stephen's Grave .. n, 12
Sticklepath, 81 ; Bridge .. 89
Stinka Tor . . 48, 50, 68
Stone Ford 78
Stookey Moor . . . . 34, 106
Take-Off Stone . . . . 25, 31
Tavistock 2
Tavy Cleave, 18, 24, 39, 40;
Tors, 36, 39.
Tavy Hole, 34, 104 ; Stone, 28
Taw, The, 81 ; Marsh, 84;
Plain, 82, 84.
Teign Clapper, 101 (see Part III.)
Tiger's Marsh 50
Throwleigh, 98 ; Common, 89,
90, 91 ; Cross at, 98.
Tongue End 65
Torwood Mine 53
Twyste Lane 12
V
Vale Down 49
Vellake Corner 67
Vergyland Combe . . 78, 107
Vigo Bridge 3
Vixen Tor 7, 23
W
Walkham Head, II, 24, 28, 34
Wapsworthy, 12, 24, 28, 33 ;
Wells, 39.
Ward Bridge 6
Warren House Inn, 102 (See
Part III.)
Warren's Cross 3
Was Tor 53
Watchet Hill 81
Water Hill 102
Watern Oke . . 40, 45, 48
Watervale 25, 32
Wed I<ake . . . » . . 1 1
Week, East, 98 ; Middle, 98 ;
North, 96 ; West, 97.
West Cleave, Belstone . . 95
Wheal Betsy 17
Wheal Friendship . . . . 17
Wheal Mary Emma Steps. . 57
Whiddon Down . . . . 98
Whitchurch Down, 2, 23 ; Cross
on, 3.
White Barrow 34
White Bird, The . . . . 96
White Hill (Peter Tavy), 32, 38
White Hill (S. Tawton) . . 82
White Moor Bottom, 90 ; Circle,
84, 89, 101 ; Marsh, 90 ;
Mead, 83 ; Stone, 83, 89,
90, 99 ; Pits, 83.
White for (Peter Tavy), n ;
Menhir. 1 1 .
Wild Tor 83
William of Worcester . . 61
Willsworthy, 17, 36 ; Bounds, 31
Windy Post . . . . 8, 23
Winter Tor 82
Withycombe Bottom . . 55
Woodcock Hill 48
Wyke Family, The . . . . 97
Yard Gate 18
Yellowmead Farm (Black Down)
36.
Yes Tor . . . . 68, 70, 71
Zeal Head Cross
Zoar Down
97
GUIDE TO DARTMOOR:
R Topographical Description
of the Forest and Commons
BY
WILLIAM CROSSING,
AUTHOR OF
The Ancient Stone Crosses of Dartmoor and Its Borderland, Amid Devonia's Alpi
Tales of the Dartmoor Pixies, Qems in a Granite Setting, A Hundred
Year* on Dartmoor, Folk Rhymes of Devon,
From a Dartmoor Cot, G>c.
WITH MAPS AND SKETCHES.
A NEW EDITION IN FIVE PARTS.
PART III.
Chagford, Moreton, Lustleigh, and
Bovey Tracey Districts.
4 Rocks, hills, and sky in sleep lethean bound,
Nor one discordant voice obtruding round."
JOSEPH COTTLB.
fiieter :
A. WHEATON & Co., Ltd., Booksellers and Stationers,
223 High Street.
OUT OF THE LAND OF GORSE AND HEATHER
TO
THE RIGHT WORSHIPFUL
THE MAYOR AND MAYORESS OF PLYMOUTH,
A. EDMUND SPENDER, B.A.,
AND
HELEN FRANCES SPENDER,
GREETING.
PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION.
THE favourable reception accorded to the former editions of this Guide
has rendered a further issue necessary. In this some considerable
alterations in the arrangement have been made. While a description
of Dartmoor in one volume had much to recommend it, the plan was
also not without its disadvantages. The ground covered being
extensive it was impossible to produce such a book as the author
considered the subject demanded without its becoming rather bulky,
and this was inconvenient from the tourist's point of view. It is now
divided into five parts, but there has been no abridgement of matter.
The few alterations in the text are chiefly of the nature of additions
which were needed in order to bring the book up to date.
The author is much gratified at knowing that the Guide has been
found helpful by the tourist in the past, and ventures to believe that
in its present form it will prove of still greater value in the future.
BI.ACK DOWN, DARTMOOR,
June, 1914.
vl.
DARTMOOR GUIDE.
EXETER.
POPLE'S
NEW LONDON HOTEL
(Visited by their Majesties The King and Queen, King Edward VII.
and Queen Victoria.)
Officially appointed by the " Royal Automobile Club,"
and the "Automobile Association."
A charming i8th Century Hotel, with every modern comfort
and luxury. Beautiful covered Courtyard as Lounge. Near the
Cathedral and Railway Stations. Electric Light. Night Porter.
SPLENDID MOTOR GARAGE
Adjoining the Hotel, with Lock-up Private Boxes and
Inspection Pits.
Telegrams: " Pople, Exeter." Telephone: 146, Exeter.
R. POPLE, Proprietor.
Houses
Let
Sold
Built
Repaired
Painted
Decorated.
For anything to do
with Houses or
Building
Land in
The
Howard,
Contractor
and House Agent
ROCKVALE, YELVERTON.
'Phone ia.
PREFACE.
DURING recent years the claims of Dartmoor as a holiday and health
resort have become widely recognized. Those to whom an old world
region is an attraction will find in it a field of surpassing interest. No
district in England of similiar extent is so rich in pre-historic remains,
and in none does Nature wear a wilder aspect.
To this elevated tract of land no guide book, in the true sense of
the term, has hitherto appeared. It has, of course, been noticed in
county guides, and there are also topographical works and handbooks
descriptive of it, but in the former the accounts are necessarily super-
ficial, while in the latter the visitor is not given any directions for
finding his way over those parts of the waste remote from roads. To
enable him to learn what Dartmoor really is he needs something beyond
notices of the more celebrated, because more readily accessible, places
and objects of interest. He should be led from the beaten track, and
wander among the hills where signs of man's occupancy are not, where
silence broods over the sea of fen, and the pasture grounds of the
cattle that range at will are as they were when the Norman herdsman,
drove his beasts there ; or he should stray into solitary combes
encumbered with the ruined huts and fallen rock-pillars of the people
who once made this wild land their home. As my acquaintance with
Dartmoor is a life-long one, and as it has been with me a subject of
study and of systematic investigation during many years, it is with
some degree of confidence that I take upon myself the task of con-
ducting the visitor over it, and leading him into its remoter parts.
This book is the first to give a complete topographical description
of Dartmoor, and the reader may depend upon its being correct. Its
aim is to furnish the visitor with an account of all that is to be found
on the moor worthy of note, and to acquaint him with the best means
of reaching the various objects from any point. The districts into
which the moor has been divided are described in the excursions, and
viii. PREFACE.
at the end of these are given routes to each of the other districts. By
this arrangement the moor is crossed in every conceivable direction,
so that it is not possible to find any part of it that is not noticed some-
where in the book. For the sake of convenience the terms used in
connection with the forest and commons are given, with their mean-
ings, in glossarial form, some archaeological terms being also included.
I desire to express my thanks to Mr. PHIUP GUY STEVENS, of
Princetown, for the series of pen-and-ink sketches he has been at such
pains to furnish, and which were executed on the spot. It is hoped
they will be found useful as a means of helping the visitor to identify
the principal tors and hills.
If I gain the confidence of the rambler who uses this book my
satisfaction will be complete. There is some reason for me to hope
that I shall do so, as I venture to believe that he will discover ere we
have gone far on our wanderings together that I am really and truly a
Dartmoor man.
CONTENTS.
PART III.
PAGE
Road Distances to Chagford and Moreton i
,, ,, Bovey Tracey 61
Important Points near Chagford 2
„ ,, Bovey 62
Chagford to Moreton, Gidleigh, Teigncombe, Metheral, Moor Gate,
and Beetor Cross 2
Moreton to Chagford, Metheral, and Moor Gate 2
Excursion 19. From Chagford and Moreton 5
Extension to Ockment Hill and Newtake . . . . 8
Excursion 20. From Chagford and Moreton 1 1
21 „ ,, 16
22 ,, „ 20
Shorter Excursions. ,, ,, 48 to 63 .... 26
The Banks of the Teign 39
Shorter Excursions 64 to 70 40
Chagford and Moreton to Grim's Pound 34
North Bovey to Grim's Pound 38
Route 3 1 . Chagford and Moreton to Bovey Tracey 48
„ 32. ,, ,, „ Ashburton 48
» 33- i, >, ,, Brent (via Hexworthy), 49, 55
,, ,, „ Ivybridge (do.) . . . . 50
,. ,, „ Cornwood (do.) .. .. 51
,, 34. ,, ,. ,, Plympton and Shaugh . . 52
„ 35. ,, ,, ,, Princetown 53
36. „ „ „ Tavistock 53
37- >, ., „ Lydford 54
,. 38. „ ,, „ Okehampton 54
z. CONTENTS. PART III.
PAGE
Routes to Cranmere from Chagford and Gidleigh 58
,, ,, Moreton and North Bovey 60
Cranmere to Princetown and Two Bridges 60
Hameldon and Widecombe 63
Excursion 23. From Bovey, Lustleigh, and Ilsington . . . . 69
24. „ „ „ , 76
25. „ , ...... 79
Shorter Excursions 71 to 82 82
Do. from Widecombe, 83 to 87 95
Route 39. Bovey Tracey to Ashburton 101
,, 40. ,, ,, Brent and Ivybridge 101
,, 41. ,, ,, Plympton and Shaugh 101
,, 42. „ ,, Princetown 101
,, 43. ,, ,, Tavistock 104
„ 44. „ ,, Lydford 104
„ 45. ,, „ Okehampton and Belstone .. .. 106
,, 46. „ ,, Moreton and Chagford 107
DARTMOOR GUIDE. zi.
MAPS.
Sketch Map of the Moor facing ]page i
Surroundings of Cranmere 56
ONE INCH MAPS.
9. Chagford and Moreton District . . . . facing page 6
10. Chagford and Post Bridge District . . „ ,, 20
11. Bovey Tracey District 70
The numbers of the Routes and Excursions as given in the first
edition of the Guide are retained throughout. T. signifies Track ;
Ex. or S. Ex., Excursion or Shorter Excursion ; R., Route ; and C. R.,
Cranmere Route. The entire length of each Excursion is given ;
Route distances are given one way only.
zii. DARTMOOR GUIDE.
SIDMOUTH (Devon).
The
Fortfield Hotel.
Greatly Enlarged. New Wings.
Electric Light Throughout Lifts to all Floors.
(~)N E of the most comfortable Hotels on
^ the South Coast. Unequalled posi-
tion. Situated in its own charming
Grounds. Full South and facing sea;
having two full-sized Croquet Lawns.
Handsomely furnished by Maple & Co.
Complete with every luxury and con-
venience. Near to Brine Baths and
convenient to Golf Links. Sanitary
arrangements perfect. Large and com-
modious bedrooms. Handsome private
Suites of Apartments, either on ground
floor, first or second floors, with Bath-
rooms and Lavatories. Corridors carefully
heated. Spacious Public Rooms.
Billiards. High-class Cuisine. Selected
Wines. Moderate and inclusive terms.
Telephone -r -/r i- • n •
NO. 39. * anfr on application to Proprietor.
GUIDE TO DARTMOOR.
IN FIVE PARTS.
Part I. PRINCETOWN, Two BRIDGES, HEXWORTHY, AND POST BRIDGE
DISTRICTS.
Deals with the whole of the central part of the Moor, and
contains notices of Crazy Well Pool, Siward's Cross, Childe's Tomb,
the Merivale Antiquities, Mis Tor, Wistman's Wood, Dartmeet, etc.
Excursions i to 6 ; 41 to 46. Shorter Exs. i to 14. Routes
i to 8. Cranmere Routes i, 2, 15, 16, 17.
Part II. TAVISTOCK, LYDFORD, OKEHAMPTON, AND STICKXEPATH
DISTRICTS.
Describes Northern Dartmoor, extending from Sampford
Spiney on the West to Throwleigh on the East : Notices Brent
Tor, Lydford Gorge, Hill Bridge, Tavy Cleave, Fur Tor, the
Island of Rocks, Yes Tor, the Belstone Range, Cosdon, etc.
Excursions 7 to 18. S. Exs. 15 to 47. Routes 9 to 30.
C.R. 3 to ii.
Part III. CHAGFORD, MORETON, LUSTLEIGH, AND BOVEY TRACEY
DISTRICTS.
A Description of Eastern Dartmoor : This part contains a
notice of Cranmere Pool, and among other places and objects
included in the Excursions are the Scorhill and Kes Tor Antiquities,
Teign Head, Fernworthy, Grim's Pound, Drewsteignton Dolmen,
Fingle Bridge, Lustleigh Cleave, Hey Tor, etc.
Excursions 19 to 25. S. Exs. 48 to 87. Routes 31 to 46.
C. R. 12, 13, 14.
xiv. DARTMOOR GUIDE.
Part IV. ASHBURTON, BRENT, IVYBRIDGE, AND CORNWOOD
DISTRICTS.
The whole of Southern Dartmoor, so rich in antiquities and
charming border scenery, is described in this part. Among other
places noticed are Rippon Tor, Widecombe-in-the-Moor, the
Buckland Woods, Holne Chase, Brent Moor, Shipley, the Valley
of the Erme, Stowford Cleave, Hawns and Dendles, etc.
Excursions 26 to 34. S. Exs. 88 to 121. Routes 47 to 66.
From the southern part of the moor the starting points of the
Cranmere Routes are Princetown, Two Bridges, and Post Bridge,
C.R. i, 2, 1 6, 17. These are given in Part I.
Part V. PI.YMPTON. SHAUGH, YELVERTON, AND DOUSLAND
DISTRICTS.
Describes Western Dartmoor from Cornwood to the Walkham :
Shaugh Bridge, the Dewer Stone, the Plym Valley, Meavy, Sheeps
Tor, and the Burrator Lake. This part also contains a brief
description of the old pack-horse tracks on the Moor, to which
reference is frequently made in the book, as well as a Dictionary
of Terms used in connection with the Forest and Commons.
Excursions 35 to 40. Routes 67 to 76. For Cranmere Routes
see Princetown, Two Bridges, and Post Bridge, C.R. 1,2, 16, 17, in
Parti.
Each Part contains directions for reaching Cranmere Pool from
the Districts described in it.
DARTMOOR GUIDE.
Where reference is made to other of the Author's
books the titles are thus abbreviated.
'A Hundred Years on Dartmoor" . . . . . . 100 Years.
' Gems in a Granite Setting " . . . . . . Gems.
'The Ancient Stone Crosses of Dartmoor and Its
Borderland " . . . . . . . . . . Crosses.
' Amid Devonia's Alps " .. .. .. .. Dev. Alps.
' Tales of the Dartmoor Pixies " .. .. .. Pixies
SKETCH MAP
PLYMOUTH
OF DAPTMOOR ^
GUIDE TO DARTMOOR.
CHAGFORD AND MORETON
DISTRICT.
These places are 4^ miles apart, via Eastern Cross, but as mentioned
post, the distance between them may be shortened by i mile if the road
by Great Week and Drewston is followed, which it may well be by
the pedestrian. There is a regular road motor service between
Chagford and the G.W.R. Station at Moreton, 5 m., and also between
Chagford and Exeter, L.S.W.R.
DISTANCES: BY ROAD. ASHBURTON, via Beetor Cross
and Swine Down Gate, i2f m. from C. ; via North Bovey and Swine
Down Gate, n£ from M. BARRAMOOR BRIDGE, C., 3-^ ; M.,
3£. BECKY FALL, C., j\; M., 4|. BEETOR CROSS, C., 2% ;
M., 3. BELSTONE, C., 8± ; M., nf. BOVEY TRACEY, C., lof ;
M., 6J. BRIDFORD, C., 9+; M., 5. BUCKFASTLEIGH (Ash-
burton road past Welstor Cross), C., 15^; M., 14. BUCKLAND-
IN-THE-MOOR, via Widecombe, C., 12; M., n. CHRISTOW,
C., ii ; M., 7. CLIFFORD BRIDGE, C., via Uppacott, 6± ; M., 3*.
CREDITON, C., 14; M., 12. DARTMEET, via Two Bridges,
C., I5|; M., 17. DREWSTEIGNTON, C., 4; M., via Easton, 6.
DUNSFORD, C., 8£ ; M., 5. EASTON, C., i| ; M., 3. EXETER.
C., 15; M., 12. FERNWORTHY, C., 4*; M., via Stiniel, ;i,
FINGLE BRIDGE, C., 4± ; M., 3^. GID'LEIGH, C., 2\ ; M., via
Easton, 7. GRENDON BRIDGE, C., 8£ ; M., 10. GRIM'S POUND,
€., 5| ; M. sf. HEMSWORTHY GATE, C., 8± ; M., 7. HENNOCK,
C., io£; M., 6. HEXWORTHY, C., isf ; M., 17^. ILSINGTON,
€., \2\; M., S. IVYBRIDGE, via Buckfastleigh, C., 25^; M., 24.
JURSTON GATE, 2f from C. LUSTLEIGH, C., 8; M., 3*.
LYDFORD, C., 19^; M., 22f. MANATON, C., 6| ; M., 3$.
METHERAL, C. M., £ m. short of Fernworthy. MOOR GATE, C.,
3| ; M., 4. NEWTON ABBOT, C., i6J ; Af., 12. NORTH BOVEY,
C., 4± ; M., if. OKEHAMPTON, C., io£ ; M., 13^. PLYMOUTH,
via Princetown, C., 26$- ; M., 28$. PLYMPTON, via Princetown,
C., 26 ; M., 274. POST BRIDGE, C., 7 ; M., 8J. PRINCETOWN,
C., 12 ; Af., 13$. SyLVDY PARK, C., i| ; M., 3$-. SOUTH BRENT,
C., 2oJ; Af., 19. SOUTH TAWTON, C. M., $ m. beyond South
Zeal. SOUTH ZEAL, C., 6£ ; Af., 9$. STICKLEPATH, via
Throwleigh, C., 6f ; Af., 10^. 5IF/N£ DOWN GATE, C., 6£ ;
B3
2 CHAGFORD AND MORETON DISTRICT.
M., 5. TAVISTOCK, C., 18$ ; M., 20. THROWLEIGH, C., 3$ ;
M., 8. TWO BRIDGES, C., ioi ; Af., 12. WARREN HOUSE
INN, C., 4j; M., 6J. WHIDDON DOWN, C., 4^ ; M., 6J.
WIDECOMBE, C., 9; M., 8. YELVERTON, C., 18 ; Af., 19$.
YEOFORD, C., ii ; A/., 13.
BY RAII, from MORETONHAMPSTEAD (G.W.R.) to Lt/ST-
LEIGH, 3\ m. ; BOFEY TRACEY, 6£ m. ; NEWTON ABBOT,
12± m. Distances from NEWTON are given in the Bovey Tracey
District.
Important Points and Landmarks.
Beetor Cross — Kes Tor — Metheral — Moor Gate (Princetown Road)
— Newhouse, or Warren House Inn, on the Princetown Road — Teign
Head Farm — Watern Tor — White Moor Stone. Places of Interest.
Becky Palls — Bowerman's Nose — Bradford Pool — Cranbrook Castle —
Fernworthy — Fingle Bridge and Gorge — Gidleigh Castle and Chase —
Hameldon — Holy Street — Lustleigh Cleave — Prestonbury Camp —
Raybarrow Pool — The Tolmen — Week Down — Whiddon Park —
Wooston Castle. Prehistoric Antiquities. Assacombe : row, menhir,
and circle — Challacombe : stone row — Clannaborough Down : huts
and reaves — Froggymead stone circle — Grim's Pound : large hut
enclosure — Little Hound Tor : stone circle — Metheral : huts — Scorhill
Down : stone circle — Shapley Common : hut circles — Shovel
Down : rows and sepulchral remains — Spinsters' Rock : dolmen, near
Drewsteignton — Waters Down : stone row. Mining Remains. North
and South Teign, and Walla Brook : stream works: — South Teign below
Metheral : blowing houses.
Chagford had an early connection with Dartmoor as one of the
Stannary towns, and it has a later one consequent upon the favour it
has found with visitors to the mooiland district. The parish is
divided into four quarters, and there are three manors, one of them
belonging to the Duchy. This is the Prince's Manor, or Manor of
Great Week. The tract of land now forming Whiddon Park was
purchased by Sir John Widdon in the reign of Elizabeth. In the
churchyard is the grave of James Perrott, long known to all visitors
to Chagford as the Dartmoor guide.
As our excursions will commence at Gidleigh, Teigncombe,
Metheral, and Moor Gate, it will be more convenient to describe here
the way to those points both from Chagford and Moreton, and first of
all the road between these two.
Moreton to Chagford, 4$ m., and Reverse. Few directions are
necessary. The road runs north-westward from the town, and all
that the visitor need remember is not to branch R. About if m. from
the town the road forks, at a point known as Half Way House, and he
may choose either branch. The L. is the shorter way, but the R. is
the better road. If he decide upon the former all he has to do is to
maintain a westerly course. Drewston is first passed and then Great
Week, his destination being reached 2 m. from the forks. The road R.
will bring him in ij m. to Easton Cross (straight on to Sandy Park,
R. to Uppacott), where he will turn L,., and reach Chagford in another
i£ m., or rather less. Conversely, the pedestrian from Chagford
ALL ROUND CHAGFORD. 3
desiring to go by the shorter way, will pass round the east end of the
churchyard, and follow the lane E. by Great Week and Drewston to
the forks, where he will keep straight on for Moreton. If he chooses
the other way he will pass down through the town with the Moor Park
Hotel I,., and taking care not to branch I,, to Rushford Bridge, will
make his way to Easton Cross. ii m., where he will turn R., and in about
i £ m. will reach Half Way House, entering Moreton if m. further on.
Chagford to Gidleigh, 2% m. Crossing the Teign at Chagford Bridge,
which is mentioned by the sixteenth century topographer, Leland, the
visitor passes upward, and L., to Walland Hill, and thence westward
to Murchington. The way lies through this, and the visitor, turning
neither R. nor L., soon begins to descend to Highbury Bridge, where
he crosses the Blackaton Brook. Less than 4- m. up the lane a turning
R. leads directly to the village. Visitors from Moreton will pass
through Chagford.
Chagford to Teigncombe Down. (A) By Yeo Bridge, 2| m. (B) By
Leigh Bridge, 2£ m. (A) Instead of descending to Chagford Bridge
turn L. at the end of the town. The road runs down at first,
and then up to Waye Barton, where the family of Prous were seated
in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, and here it forks. Keep R.
to Thorn, where a road branches L. to Collihole, the ancient Collerewe,
and the moor. Avoid this, and follow the road on to Yeo Bridge, on
the South Teign, just beyond which another road runs L. to Great
Frenchbere and Thornworthy. But the way lies past the mill to a
point about \ m. further on, where North Hill Lane comes up R. from
Leigh Bridge" Turn L. to the hamlet of Teigncombe, whence the moor
may be reached by way of Teigncombe Common Lane (S. Ex. 50), or
by turning R. at the hamlet, and then L. to the moor gate near Brim-
stone Down. (B) A shorter route to Teigncombe is by way of Holy
Street and Leigh Bridge. The visitor will pass down the hill as for
Chagford Bridge, but will turn L. at the old serge factory and follow
the narrow road, with the mill stream R., to Holy Street. Passing this
he will climb the hill, and soon after descend to Leigh Bridge, where he
will cross the South Teign immediately above its confluence with the
northern branch of that stream. North Hill Lane must then be
followed upward to Teigncombe, £ m. from the bridge. Visitors from
Moreton will first make their way to Chagford.
Chagford to Metheral, 3^ m. To the fork at Waye Barton, as in
the preceding route A., or over Meldon Common, as in S. Ex. 57 ; then
branch L-, and at the fork on the western edge of Meldon Common
keep R. to Tannaford. (There is a guide-post here). Avoid the turn-
ing L. just beyond this place. The moor is entered about I m. further
on at Tawton Gate, near Yard worthy, and the enclosures of Metheral
are reached in another £ m. The same point may also be arrived at
by passing Waye Barton and turning L. at Thorn, whence a lane runs
straight to the moor, passing Hole and Collihole.
Moreton to Metheral, 6\ m. The Princetown, or western, road is
followed past Bughead Cross, i£ m., to a point where it forks, £ m.
further on. Striking into the R. branch the visitor will make his way
past Thorn (not the farm named in the preceding route), and thence
to a stile in the hedge L., $• m. on, where he will cross one field and
reach the road again. His next point is Batworthy, £ m. (this must
not be confounded with the estate of that name near Teigncombe),
4 ALL ROUND CHAGFORD.
and less than £ m. beyond it he will reach the junction of the road he
is following with one coming L. from Beetor Cross, which is marked
by a guide-post. A little further on the Chagford road runs off R.
The visitor must bear L., and passing between Higher and Lower
Stiniel will make his way to Jurston Common, through which the
Bovey river runs. He must not descend to the stream, but follow the
road across the little common W., and so on to Jurston Cross, where
is a guide-post. (See next Route). Taking care not to turn R. or L.
he will continue on the road to the next guide-post, where he will branch
L. to Corndon, which is not far off. Here, turning R., he will proceed
for £ m. and reach the road coming up from Wave Barton, where he
will turn L. and soon find himself on that part of the moor formerly
known as Tawton Common, with the Metheral enclosures before him.
Chagford to Moor Gate, via Jurston Gate, 3 m. Turning R. from
the High Street at the southern corner of the churchyard the visitor
will pass on by the school and up the hill to Meldon Hall, the direction
being due S. Here he will bear R., as also at the next branch at Higher
Weddicott. He will then skirt Meldon Hill for a short distance, when
the road again forks, the point being marked by a guide-post. Avoid
bearing R., and keep straight on to Yellands, and thence to Jurston
Cross, where is another guide-post. The way then lies S. to Jurston
Bridge, on the Bovey river, a little beyond which the visitor will arrive
at Jurston Farm. The road bears R., or westerly, and then abruptly
turns L. and runs up the hill to Jurston Gate. Moor Gate (i.e., the point
so named where the Moreton road enters the moor) is about | m. S.E.,
and to reach it direct the narrow valley of the Bovey must be crossed.
There will, however, be no necessity for doing this for the purpose of
our excursions. The common may also be reached from Jurston by
following up the stream instead of proceeding by the road. See also
Chagford to Beetor Cross.
Moreton to Moor Gate, 4 m. Few directions are needed here, the
Princetown road simply being followed. The first point is Bughead
Cross, ij m., where a road comes N. from Easton and Sandy Park,
and goes S. to Lustleigh. The L. branch is taken at the forks just
beyond it, and Wormhifi Bridge over the Bovey is reached f m. further
on. Beyond this keep R. at the branch, and climb Worm Hill. Less
than | m. after passing the farm so named Beetor Cross (R. 32, 53)
will be reached, where is a guide-post. Descend the hill to the point
where the old stone cross stands on a bank, and then follow the road
R., or westerly, for i m. to Moor Gate. For a further notice of this
road vide S. Ex. 59, and Crosses, Chap. XIV.
Chasford to Beetor Cross, 2\ m. To the forks at Higher Weddicott,
as in going to Moor Gate. Take the branch L., and follow the road
past Lower Weddicott to the cross road. Then turn down the hill R.,
to the guide post just below the turning R. to Stiniel. Take the R.
branch, and follow the road S. to Beetor Bridge. Thence past
Beetor Farm direct to the cross. The return route is given in
S. Ex. 61.
Another road leads to Beetor Cross from Jurston Cross (see above).
On reaching the last-named point the road running down to Langaford
Bridge L., or south-easterly, must be chosen. From the bridge it goes
on direct to the Princetown road, which it joins about i m. from Beetor
Cross, L., Moor Gate being J m. R.
EXCURSION 19. CREBER POUND.
Excursions from Chagford and Moreton.
The district here described is bounded on the north by a line
drawn from Shilstone Tor to Wild Tor, and on the south by one extend-
ing from Heathercombe past Grim's Pound to the Warren House Inn
and Assacombe Hill, and embraces Gidleigh Common, Chagford Com-
mon, the common lands of North Bovey, and part of the commons
in Manaton parish, and also a portion of the east side of the forest.
[Tracks Nos. 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, and 77.]
Ex. 19. — Creber Pound, Buttern Hill, Rival Tor, Mining Remains,
Wild Tor. [EXTENSION To Ockment Hill and Newtake, add 4 m.]
Walla Brook Combe, Watern Tor, Manga Hill, Teign Head Farm,
Battey Meres, Scorhill Circle, Berry Down. From and to Gidleigh
2\ m. from Chagford, 1 1 m.
Leaving Gidleigh, which is noticed in S. Ex. 49, 50, by the road
running north-eastward, with the castle on our I,., we soon reach the
old manor pound R., and then turn L. up the hill to Creber Pound.
Just before arriving at the gate we shall notice the road branch-
ing R. at an acute angle to Moortown and Ensworthy (R. 24, 38).
Creber Pound, though for several centuries a drift pound, is really a
small piece of common separated from the open moor by enclosures.
Besides the entrance by which we reach it there are two others leading
up to which roads will be seen. The one on the L. is at the lower end
of Berry Down Stroll, and the other at the head of the pound at Creber
Farms. It is mentioned in a document of Charles the First's reign,
where it is set forth that at the time of the drifts " cattle are driven
to a pound called Dunnabridge Pound if they are found in the east,
west, and south quarter of the forest, and if found in the north quarter
of the forest to a pound called Creber Pound." Making our way up
through this ancient enclosure by the road R. we speedily reach South
Creber L., and North Creber R., and passing through a short stroll
emerge on the open moor. Our next point is the summit of Buttern
Hill (R. 24, 38), on which is a small cluster of rocks sometimes referred
to as Buttern Tor, and to which also the name of the Cuckoo Stone
has been given, rather over \ m. to the N.W. We pass a newtake on
the slope R. as we ascend (R. 25). This does not join any others, but
a little northward, near Buttern House, there are several, as well as
many old enclosures. This small farm place was built by a moorman
who used to pasture cattle on the northern part of the forest at the
time when Creber Pound was used, much more than it is at present.
Several hut circles exist in the neighbourhood of these enclosures on
the down, but the most interesting object is a stone circle, though,
unfortunately, it has been partly destroyed. We shall find it about
\ m. S.W. of the rocks. A green path (T. 43) coming from Ensworthy
N., and running along the E. side of White Moor Bottom (Ex. 18),
will be seen leading to it.
Leaving the head of this bottom, and the Pixies' Parlour (Ex. 18)
6 CHAGFORD AND MORETON DISTRICT.
R., we strike S.W. to Rival Tor, which is about i m. away (T. 43).
This we shall find to consist of one lump of granite, near the summit
of a low hill (1,379 feet), the western side, which descends to a little
feeder of the Walla Brook, being covered with grass to such an extent
as almost to resemble a meadow. This feeder comes down from the
mire at Gallaven (Ex. 17), £• m. N.W. by W., and another branch of
it from Rue Lake Pit, less than \ m. N.W. by N. Near the head of
Gallaven Mire, and over the shoulder of the hill W.N.W., is a bank
about 14 feet wide, and about 150 feet long, having something the
appearance of a track, though I have been unable to discover any
other parts of it in the same line. It runs N. and S., and passes over
the boggy ground. It may have had some connection with the mining
remains on the banks of the little Rue Lake, a short distance below
the mire, and which are known in the locality as the White Works.
Some vestiges of these we shall see as we presently make our way to
Wild Tor.
Although Rival Tor, which, were it not spoken of as Rifle Tor
by the moor people we might possibly be inclined to regard as being
a corruption of the Celtic Yr Eifl (f as v), and which, indeed, means
The Rival, is not of great height, several important landmarks are in view
from it. White Moor Stone (Ex. 17) is seen standing out against the
sky to the N.W., with Kennon Hill (Ex. 18) a little to the R. of it.
Hound Tor bears N.W. by W., and Steeperton Tor W. by N. ; Wild
Tor rises across the little valley W. by S., and Watern Tor, the pro-
minent object in all this part of the moor, S.W., the two ridges on which
these stand being separated by the dip forming the entrance to Walla
Brook Combe. Away to the southward Siddaford Tor (Ex. 20, 45) is
seen, and S.E. the square mass of Kes Tor.
Striking W.S.W. we shall descend the grassy side of Rival Tor to
a point on Rue Lake where a leat is taken from it, close to which is a
little fording place. (This is the leat that runs by Scorhill Rocks and
across the stroll above Berry Down). Here the stone heaps testify to
the former presence of the tinner, and near to the ford is one of his
curious erections. It is of the kind which are regarded as shelters,
in which it is thought the miners placed their tools when leaving the
scene of their labours for the in-country. Peat cutters sometimes
adopt a similar plan, and conceal their " irons " under a heap of peat.
The stones composing it are set in the ground on their edges,
above which is an overhanging rock forming a canopy, or roof. Lower
down the stream is a larger fording-place with a track leading to it.
This, which is not very plain in places, is the one seen at the stone
circle on Buttern Hill (T. 43).
Our way now lies up the hill W. by S. to Wild Tor, rather over i m.
distant, the Walla Brook being on our L. At the entrance to Walla
Brook Combe, where the stream bends, previously flowing from the
S., we reach a point known as Wild Tor Well, to which the forest boun-
dary comes northward from Hound Tor, and crossing the stream is
carried up to Watern Tor. The so-called Well is mentioned in 1702
as a mark standing on the boundary, and it is also one common to the
parishes of Throwleigh and Gidleigh, which here meet on the forest
line. It is about 1 50 yards from the Walla Brook where this is nearest
to it, or twice that distance if the boundary line be followed, and
which here runs S. by E. to the northern pile of Watern Tor. It has
I-
(f>
5
CHAGFORD AND MORETON DISTRICT.
been suggested that Wild Tor Well was not on the old forest boundary
but was named later as a bondmark for the purpose of making the
line agree with that which the Jury of Survey had presented in 1609.
There is no foundation whatever for this.
Passing up the hill W. by N. from the Well we reach Wild Tor,
£ m.( 1,741 feet. This pile, which stands amid scattered granite, is
situated on a lofty ridge rising between the Steeperton Brook on the
W. (Ex. 17), and the Gallaven Mire and Walla Brook Combe on the E.
Steeperton Tor, seen across the valley to the N.N.W., is about i m.
distant. Northward the ground slopes downward towards Hound Tor,
but southward it rises to the lofty Newtake Hill, which attains an
elevation of 1,893 feet- This is sometimes called Hangingstone Hill,
but that name is usually considered by the moormen to belong only
to the N.W. side of it, where there is a small outlying pile of rock.
Between Wild Tor and Newtake there are several very large cairns.
[Extension to Ockment Hill and Newtake. This will take the ram-
bler through some of the more remote parts of the forest. Striking
W.S.W. from Wild Tor he will, in less than £ m., reach the Steeperton
Brook a short distance below its source. He will then steer a little
N. of W. over Ockside Hill to Taw Rocks, £ m., where that river is
crossed, and still following the same course will, in another + m., reach
the summit of Ockment Hill (Ex. 16 and Cranmere Routes). In
returning he will strike S.E. to newtake, crossing the Taw on the way,
but rather further up stream than before. The summit of Newtake
consists of good hard ground, on which are scattered rocks, though the
hill itself is on the edge of the fen. A fragment of wall exists there,
and to this it owes its present name. It is said that in the early days
of Teignhead Farm its extension was contemplated, and that the
formation of a great newtake was projected that would include the
top of this hill. As the founder of the place took in no less than i ,400
acres, we can very well believe that he would have no scruples about
enclosing a few hundred more, and his reason for not going on with
the work of robbing the commoners may possibly have been the dis-
covery that farming operations on the Dartmoor fen were not likely
to prove remunerative. The view from Newtake is very fine. To
the N. is Ock Tor, with Steeperton Tor a little to the R. of it. N.E. is
Wild Tor, with Cosdon rising grandly some 2^ m. beyond. E. by N.
we see Watern Tor ; southward we look upon White Horse Hill ; S.W.
the rocks of Pur Tor appear ; westward is Rattlebrook Hill, with
Hare Tor and Great Links Tor, and the high land of Amicombe ; and
R. of these are Willes, Yes Tor, and West and East Mil Tor. On
leaving the hill we strike N.E., and soon come in sight of Walla Brook
Combe R. Looking across it E. we see Watern Tor, but instead of
making for it direct shall bear a little to the L. Presently we discern
a track climbing the side of the hill under the tor, and this becomes our
point. We cross the Walla Brook and follow the path towards the tor.]
Leaving Wild Tor we pass down the granite strewn slope S. by E.
to the Walla Brook, and make our way by the track referred to above
to Watern Tor, 1,756 feet. This pile' bore the name of Thurlestone
in the thirteenth century, for there can hardly be a doubt that it is the
bound named as such by the Perambulators of 1240. This name is
EXCURSION 19. WATERN TOR. TEIGNHEAD. 9
supposed to be derived from the appearance presented by the two
northern piles, which, when viewed from certain points, give the idea
of being one in which is a large aperture, the thurl, or thirl, stone being
thus the perforated stone, the term having its origin in the Anglo-
Saxon thyrelan, to pierce. An arched rock on the shore of Bigbury
Bay, between the mouth of the Avon and Hope Cove, which much
resembles this tor seen from a distance, bears the name of Thurlestone
Rock, and this seems to me confirmatory of its derivation. I have a
copy of a document in my possession in which the forest line is drawn
to the east of the one recognized by the border commoners, and this
runs to what is there called Thurston Tor, or Stone Tor. But I cannot
find any other mention of Thurston Tor as identical with Stone Tor.
The name of the next bondmark also helps to prove that Thurlestone
was the bound to which the old Perambulators came. This is Manga
Rock, | m. S.E. of Watern Tor, manga being a Gaelic word meaning a
boundaiy mark. We have elsewhere noticed the instance of the Saxone
hareston (T. 44), occurring on the line, and when we find such names
as these, and remember also that most of the objects forming the early
bondmarks can still be identified with certainty, we shall be justified
in believing that the bounds of the forest of Dartmoor have altered
very little since they were perambulated in 1 240.
Watern Tor, which has also been called Watern Borough, exhibits
in its present name a shortened form of that by which it was known
three hundred years ago, it being then referred to as Waterdontor.
Thurlestone is the name attaching to the two northern piles only.
Less than £ m. S.E. by S. of Watern Tor is the N.W. corner of the
Teignhead Farm enclosure. One wall, about 2 m. in length, comes up
from the S., and another, about £ m. long, from the E., the latter
climbing the steep hill from the Teign. Not far from the corner is a
gate, and passing through this we shall find ourselves on Hew Down,
and close to Hewthorn Glitter. As we proceed, our course being a
little E. of S., we leave Manga Rock below us L., and cross the head of
a streamlet referred to in 1702 as Hugh Lake (vide post). Thence
passing over Manga Hill, and crossing Manga Brook, we shall reach
the farmhouse, about i^ m. from the corner near which we entered
the enclosure.
Teignhead Farm was taken in from the forest somewhere about
twenty years before the close of the eighteenth century by a Mr. Rogers,
who built the house, and lived there many years. He was succeeded
in 1817 by a Mr. Dodd, and thirty years later Mr. James Endacott
became the tenant. After him, in 1872, came his son — known in this
part of the moor as Teignhead George — who, however, only remained
there three years. Then the place was taken by Mr. John Gemmell,
of Woolwell, in the parish of Bickleigh, as a summer run for cattle,
and about 1878 was acquired by Mr. Lamb, of Prince Hall (Ex. 4),
who placed a shepherd there, and devoted it to the rearing of Scotch
sheep. But the venture did not prove very successful, and the place
is again used as a summer grazing farm. There was formerly another
homestead on it at Great Varracombe, called Mandles, where a son of
James Endacott once lived, and brought up a large family. The
place is now in ruins.
Proceeding down the rough track that leads from the house to
the river we shall soon find ourselves at Teignhead Bridge, a clapper
io CHAGFORD AND MORETON DISTRICT.
erected by Mr. Rogers. It consists of four piers with three openings,
three stones being laid over each. Its length is nearly 28 feet, and its
•width 6 feet 9 inches.
The track by which we have reached it goes on to Fernworthy
(T. 45 ) ; we shall not, however, cross the river and follow this, but
shall make our way down its L. bank. Just below the bridge, and
a little removed from the river, are the remains of some tinners' build-
ings, and still further down a waterfall. We shall also pass a fording-
place, which may possibly be the Mangersford mentioned in a pre-
sentment at a Court of the Manor of Lydford, in the 2oth of Henry VI.
The little tributary which we cross is Hew Lake, and the spot at which
it joins the Teign was formerly known as Blackstone. It seems prob-
able that Hew Lake is the Whoodelake of 1609, and the Woodlake
of ninety years later,* although on a copy of an old map in my posses-
sion this name is given to the little stream that rises S.E. of Stone
Tor Hill, and flows by the enclosures of Thornworthy into the South
Teign, or Little Teign, as the river is there called. Below Hew Lake
the North Teign enters a level, part of which appears on the map in
question as Battey Meres, a name which may have reference to the
boundary of the forest near by, or to a former lake of which the level
has been supposed to be the bed, though it is possible that Battery
(i.e., Batworthy) Mires, which I have heard the spot called, may after
all be the correct form. On this level, which is bounded on the N. by
the Walla Brook, the former presence of the tin-streamer is plainly
shown. The ground has been worked most extensively, and heaps of
debris, now covered with vegetation, extend for some distance along
the bank of the Teign.
We shall turn away a little from the river after passing Hew
Lake Foot, where the wall of the Teignhead enclosure runs up the hill,
and pass round to the L- of a swampy flat, our course being northward
towards the Walla Brook. When about •£ m. from Hew Lake, and
£ m. from the nearest corner of the wall, we shall come upon a little
nut, but not of the kind usually associated with the tinners. It
measures only 6 feet by 4^ feet internally, the back wall being 5 feet
high, and the front one rather lower. The doorway is intact, and there
is a fire-place. It was probably a shepherd's or a peat cutter's shelter.
We now make our way to the Walla Brook, which we shall follow
downward to its junction with the Teign. Here it is spanned by a
single stone clapper, and it will also be seen that its banks are walled
in the manner of those on the East Dart above Sandy Hole (Rx. 45,
R. io B, 36 B). Immediately below the confluence is Teign Clapper,
which replaces a structure known more than 200 years ago by that name,
and which was swept away by a great flood in 1826. Quite close to
this, and opposite to the corner of the Batworthy enclosures on the
* The sound of the W would disappear in Dartmoor speech, and
the name be pronounced Oodlake, or Hoodlake, from which Hewlake
would be a natural transition, since the native drops the d sound
equally with that of the w. Hood Lake is the form given in Westcote's
View of Devon in 1630, which, however, was not published until 1845.
In the sixteenth century, and also at the beginning of the eighteenth,
there is mention of a Hugh Stone, but this seems to indicate an object
S. of the Teign.
EXCURSION 20. THE ROUND POUND. 11
•other side of the stream, is the curious Holed Stone, which, in the days
when everything on Dartmoor out of the ordinary was ascribed to the
Druids, was regarded as having been perhaps used by them for some
mysterious purpose connected with their religious rites, and was
looked upon as a tolmen. And such it is in so far as it is a stone with
a hole in it, but it is of quite a different character from the tolmen
that is classed as a pre-historic monument. The story used to be told
that people were brought here to be " christened " ; probably this
arose after antiquaries began to show curiosity concerning it. The
hole, which is about three feet in diameter, is worn through an im-
mense block of granite that rests in the bed of the Teign, and close to
its L. bank. Many rocks with cavities worn partly through them by
the action of the water may be seen on the Dartmoor streams.
On Scorhill Down, due N. of the Holed Stone, and only a short
distance from it, is the fine stone circle usually known by the same
name as the common. It is 90 feet in diameter, and consists of 24
upright stones, and eight fallen ones, but the breaks in it seem to show
that there were formerly more than this. One, which is much higher
than the others, is about 8 feet in height, and another, standing nearly
opposite to it, is about 6 feet. The others are lower, some being under
3 feet. There is little doubt that when the walls near by were built
this monument suffered at the hands of those engaged in the work,
and unfortunately it was again assailed by the vandal a few years ago,
one of its stones being split for posts. This destructive work was,
however, quickly discovered and stopped.
Striking north-eastward we shall make our way to Berry Down
Stroll, the head of which is only £ m. distant. Down through this
stroll we pass, and at the bottom turn R. to Berry Down Farm, or
Beridon, as it is sometimes called, and apparently with more correct-
ness, whence one Autumn day, in the 24th of Henry VIII., John Roo, its
holder, set out to the Parliament of the Tinners on Crockern Tor. We
pass the farm and make our way down the long lane to Highbury
Bridge, returning to Chagford through Murchington, as in R. 24 B.
Ex. 20. — Teigncombe Down, The Round Pound, Shovel Down Stone
Rows, The Long Stone, The Three Boys, Fernworthy, Circle on Froggy-
mead Hill, Long Ridge, The Grey Wethers, Siddaford Tor [Ouintin's
Man, add 2 m.], Kes Tor. From and to Teigncombe Down (2^ m.
from Chagford,) 9 m.
Entering upon the common at the moor gate at Brimstone Down
we follow the road for about £ m., when we shall reach the object
known as the Round Pound. This stands close beside the track, and
in the midst of a group of remains consisting of reaves, or low banks,
and hut circles, and one or two rectangular enclosures, the whole being
overlooked by the prominent Kes Tor. The Round Pound is really the
remains of a large hut dwelb'ng surrounded by a wall, the space between
the two being divided into half a dozen small courts, or pens, by low
walls radiating from the hut to the outer rampart. Across the road,
and a short distance up the hill, is another enclosure, but rectangular
in form, and which is also somewhat similarly divided into pens. The
hut circles on this part of the common show as that a very extensive
settlement of the primitive people of the moor once existed here.
And it is one of more than ordinary interest ; for, standing in
12 CHAGFORD AND MORETON DISTRICT.
proximity to these ruined dwellings, are also many sepulchral monu-
ments, while in the immediate vicinity a vast number of flint imple-
ments, consisting of arrow-heads, knives, and scrapers, have been,
found. These were first discovered in 1887, on the adjoining estate
of Batworthy, and were so numerous that by 1889 Mr. F. N. Budd,
the owner, had collected no less than 6,400 specimens, including flakes
and nodules. As many of these were of chocolate coloured chert,
similar to the chert pebbles at Sidniouth, Mr. Budd was led to the
belief that much of the material was brought from the further side of
the Exe. The fields in which the specimens were found were evidently
formed on a spot once devoted to their manufacture. Further speci-
mens have been obtained there since 1889. The monuments referred to
we shall find on Shovel Down, to which we make our way by following
the track, with the enclosures of Batworthy R., to Batworthy Corner,
where the wall forms a sharp angle, and is carried down the hill in a
north-westerly direction to the North Teign at the Holed Stone
(Ex. 19). Exactly 300 yards S. by W. of Batworthy Corner is a group
of stones forming the remains of three concentric circles, and if the
visitor first makes his way to this he will the better be able to follow
the brief description of the monuments here given. They cannot be
said to be particularly striking, for the stones composing them are
small, but they are interesting as furnishing examples of the circle,
the row, the cairn, and the menhir. They have obtained some
note in consequence of being situated on a border common often
visited, but the rambler who knows Dartmoor will hardly fail to
remember places where remains much more striking are to be seen.
Standing in the triple circle and looking northward the visitor will
have before him two double stone rows, one running almost due N.,
and extending for about 140 yards, and the other running N. by W.
for about the same distance. Now turning southward the observer will
find another row before him, also double. This runs in a direction
S. by E. for no yards, and terminates in a dilapidated cairn, probably
the site of a vanished kist. Having reached this point, and still looking
southward, he will have yet another double row before him, although
it does not start from the cairn, but some few score yards further on.
Upon the line of this row stands the fine menhir known as the Long-
stone, to which the visitor now makes his way. This ancient monolith
is ten feet in height, and forms one of the forest bondmarks, a purpose
it has probably served from an early time. It seems to be either
the Heigheston or Langestone of the perambulators of 1240.* It
also stands at that point on the forest boundary line where the common
lands belonging to Gidleigh and Chagford meet. Southward of the
menhir about 220 yards is a stone that once formed a supporter of a
capstone of a dolmen. This single block, and the former name of the
dolmen — it was called the Three Boys — are all that remains of a monu-
* Among other forms of these names mentioned at various periods
(though it is by no means certain that they refer to the same object),
are Hangeston, Hengston, Highstone, Yessetone, Gotestone, and
Yestelay. We have already referred to Hugh Stone (Ex. 19) ; this
also appears as Fewstone ; and Heath Stone seems also to be called
Gesstone, while in 1699 there is mention of an object in ifs vicinity, if
not identical with it, called Half Stone.
EXCURSION 20. THORNWORTHY KIST. FERN WORTHY. 13
ment which, were it now in a complete state, would have given us an
•object of antiquity such as this part of the moor now furnishes no
example of, and would have lent much additional interest to these
Shovel Down remains.
Striking S. from the Three Boys, but bearing a little to the I,.,
we soon reach a small stream, a tributary of the South Teign, and
shall make our way down this through Longstone Bottom, a rather
marshy spot, with Thornworthy Tor on our L. When about £ m.
from the ruined dolmen we enter a stroll formed on the L. by the
enclosures of Thornworthy, and on the R. by those of Fernworthy.
In this stroll, which runs down to the Teign, and not far from the left
bank of the little tributary stream, a good example of a kistvaen may
be seen. It was only brought to light about 1880, having previously
been buried beneath a small mound. On removing the cover stone
and examining this sarcophagus, some fragments of pottery and flints
were discovered. In some of the examples on the moor the covering
slab is missing (although this is not found to be the case where the
kists are far removed from newtake walls), but usually it is seen lying
near the grave. In the present instance, instead of being thrown on
one side it was supported on some fragments of rock quite near to the
kist, but in such a manner as not to interfere with the view of the
interior. One side stone of this rude coffin is five feet long, the other
being 3 ft. 7 inches at the top ; the end stones are 2 feet, and i foot
9 inches long respectively, the height of the whole being about 2 feet.
The cover stone in 5 feet in length, and 3^ feet in width at its widest
part. The circle formed by the bank that enclosed the low mound
that covered the kist is 24 feet in diameter, interior measurement.
Making our way down to the Teign we shall turn R. and follow
that stream upward to Fernworthy Bridge. Here close to the modern
erection is a fine example of the single stone clapper. The slab forming
this solid footway is rather over ten feet in length, and nearly four feet
wide, and is about a foot thick. The road, which comes down to the
bridge from Metheral, runs past the farmhouse to Froggymead Hill,
whence a green track goes out to Teign Head (T. 45). Fernworthy
is an old settlement, and formerly consisted of three farms, and is
referred to in a seventeenth century document as a village. It is not,
however, one of the ancient forest tenements, nor is it strictly a part of
the forest, although it lies within its boundaries, and is consequently in
the parish of Lydford. Rather over 200 years ago it was in the posses-
sion of a Farmer Lightfoot, and the letter L cut in the stone over the
doorway, which bears the date 1690, in all probability refers to him.
The estate is mentioned by the Jury of Survey, who enquired into the
bounds of the forest in 1609, so that the date on the stone evidently
records some alterations, or enlargement, only. A considerable
portion of the land has been enclosed within the last hundred years
or so, but had previously belonged to the estate, and was defined by
a tin bound. Other parts of it are Lowtons, Silkhouse, Assacombe,
Brownhills, and Little Newtake, and it extends along both banks of
the Teign. Fernworthy is a good example of a moorland dwelling,
and like most of the Dartmoor homesteads in similar situations, is
sheltered by some fine sycamores.
Passing the house, near to which we shall notice an old well, we
make our way to the head of the lane, where a gate opens on Froggymead
14 CHAGFORD AND MORETON DISTRICT.
Hill. Here, built into the wall, is a large stone having a circular
hollow sunk in it. The rambler round Chagford will meet with many
of these stones. The hollows were intended to receive the stanchion
of a gate, one of the holed stones being fixed in the ground, and the
other placed so as to project from the wall or hedge in which it was built.
This upper stone was, of course, not secured until the gate was put
in its proper position. About £ m. N.W. of the gate is a good example
of the stone circle. It is. not of great size, the diameter being
only about sixty feet, nor do the stones rise high above the turf, but
it is in a capital state of preservation. Two or three of the stones
appear to be missing. A short distance N. by E. are the remains of a
stone row, and the vestiges of another are to be seen to the S. of the
circle. This has led to a suggestion that these rows were once connected
with the ones we have just examined near the Longstone, and also
that the latter may perhaps have been continued to the circle at Scor-
hill (Ex. 19). In fact, the idea has been so elaborated that a sketch
plan has been made in which the rows are shown to extend throughout
the whole of the distance from Froggymead to Scorhill. But there
is no reason for supposing that these remains on Proggymead Hill
ever formed part of the Longstone group, or that the latter were linked
up with the Scorhill circle. The existence of a cluster of antiquities
near to another of a similar character furnishes no ground for sup-
posing them to have been connected with each other. But by means
of an imaginary plan it would, of course, be easy to show that the
whole of the antiquities in the moorland region once formed a single
group.
Turning south-westward we shall make our way to Hemstone
Rocks, situated on that stretch near Long Ridge .known as Tom's Hill,
passing a few hut circles as we proceed. Near to us, on the L., is the
South Teign, and on the further side of that stream the slope of Assa-
combe Hill. Ages ago this quiet valley was the scene of the secret
meetings of a handsome youth and a fair maiden. Who or what they
were the story does not tell us, further than that the lady dwelt some-
where near by on the border of the moor, and that her lover was in
hiding in the forest, but was " kept out of bis rights." (Cf. the story of
Gaveston, Ex. 2). From Hemstone Rocks, below which is Hem-
stone Bottom, we pass up the hill W.S.W. to the circles known as the
Grey Wethers, £ m. distant. This name, which we find applied to-
similar monuments in other parts of the country, is popularly sup-
posed to have been derived from a fancied resemblance of the group
of stones to a flock of sheep. I have elsewhere related [Crosses,
Chap. XIV.] how these stones were once the object of a practical joke,
having been sold by a man named Debben to a farmer, who was a
stranger to this part of the moor, as so many grey wethers. The
bargain was struck in the Warren House Inn, and the farmer was
directed to go to the newtake near Siddaford Tor, where he would be
able to see his purchase. This he did, but unlike Bo Peep found not
only that the sheep would not come home, but also that they had
no tails to bring behind them.* The Grey Wethers consist of two circles,
the circumferences of which nearly touch each other. The northern
* I gathered this story many years ago from the late Mr. Richard
Cleave, of Hexworthy.
EXCURSION 20. SIDDAFORD TOR. QUINTIN'S MAN. 15
one is 100 feet in diameter, and the southern one about 5 feet
more. Many of the stones have fallen, but fortunately the greater
number of these have escaped the hand of the vandal, which is rather
to be wondered at seeing that there is a newtake wall close by. I
first examined these circles in 1878, when the northern one consisted
of 1 6 stones, of which 9 were erect, but there were indications of others
over which the turf had grown. In the southern circle I counted
27 stones, of which only 7 were standing. The average height of these
is about 4 feet. They are rather different in appearance from the
stones that usually compose the circles on the moor, being slabs
approaching a rectangular form. The circles are situated on the slope
of Siddaford. Tor, a pile presenting nothing of importance in itself, but
commanding a most extensive view, and being a prominent land mark
throughout a great part of the moorland region. It attains an
elevation of 1,764 feet, and one of its rocks, a thin flattish mass, could
once be made to rock, or log, with ease. It is a pity the Druidophiles
were unaware of this. What a scene they might have drawn of the
arch druid hurrying up from Wistman's Wood with a big bunch of
mistletoe, while the other druids gathered in the " sacred " circles,
and the verdant laymen waited by the logan with a beautiful childlike
trust.
(About i m. from Siddaford Tor is a tumulus known as Quintin's
Man. The name points to the former existence there of a menhir,
but no such object is now to be seen. To reach it the visitor may follow
the wall running north-westward from near the tor, and will cross the
North Teign about midway. The tumulus is only a little over 200
yards from the wall. The return may be either by way of Siddaford
or the visitor may strike E.N.E. to Teignhead Farmhouse, i m., cross-
ing the tributaries known as Little Verracombe and Great Varracombe
on the way. Near the latter was situated the dwelling known as
Mandles, mentioned previously (Ex. 19). Prom Teignhead Farm the
homeward route given in Ex. 19 may be followed).
(From Post Bridge to the Grey Wethers see Ex. 45).
From Siddaford Tor we shall make our way over Long Ridge, our
course being N.E. In about 2 m. we shall reach the westerly arm of
the tributary flowing through Longstone Bottom, and £ m. further on
shall reach the Longstone itself. We may now either follow the stone
rows, and so retrace our steps to Batworthy Corner and thence return
to the moor gate at Brimstone Down, or we may reach Teigncombe
Common Lane by way of Kes Tor, which we see above us to the N.E.
(Routes from the two are given in S. Ex. 55).
Another route from Siddaford is by way of the North Teign.
The visitor will pass through the gate near the Grey Wethers, and
descend to the clapper below Teignhead farmhouse (Ex. 19), whence
he will pass up the side of the hill, with the river L- Soon leaving the
track he will strike N.E. to Stonetor Hill, or Round Hill, as it is also
called, i m. from the Bridge. This is about i m. from Batworthy
Corner, the direction being N.E. by E., and the way running over
Shovel Down.
16 CHAGFORD AND MORETON DISTRICT.
Ex. 21. — Hut Circles near Metheral, Stone Row in Assacombe,
Waters Down, King's Oven, Lakeland, Moor Gate. From and to the
moor gate at Yard worthy (3^- m. from Chagford), 6 m. If the return,
be to Moor Gate (4 m. from Moreton), the distance is about the same.
Proceeding by the road past Waye and the western flank of Meldon
Common (see Chagford to Metheral), we enter the moor at Tawton Gate,
near Yardworthy, and following the road over Yardworthy Common,
shall cross the Metheral Brook, and reach the entrance to the farm of
that name. The ancient track to which we have elsewhere referred
as running across the forest from Chagford took a southerly line from
near this point, and was carried over Hurston Ridge. The stone
marking its course, and to which we have referred, may yet be seen
near the farm, and is shown on an unpublished map of the forest as
King-de-stone. From this the boundary went on to Heath Stone,
on which we offer some remarks in the Tracks Section (T. 44). This part
of Chagford Common is also noticed in S. Ex. 58). On the slope below
the farmhouse at Metheral, to the N.W., and not verj> far from the
South Teign, is an object which has been thought by some to be part of
a stone row ; in fact, it is shown as such on the new Ordnance Maps, or
rather, as a stone " avenue." But I altogether fail to see the true
characteristics of a row in this object. It consists of two parallel
walls, about a dozen feet apart, the stones being set closely together
on their edges. These fragments of wall are probably the remains of
some ancient enclosures, and are precisely similar in character to .some
that may be seen in a newtake on the hillside above the Forest Inn,
at Hexworthy, and between that hostelry and Down Ridge. But
there are, nevertheless, some undoubted antiquarian objects near
Metheral. In the glen below, and not very far from Thorn worthy, is
a good example of the miner's blowing-house, with a trough and mould-
stone, which we have noticed in S. Ex. 56, and on Lowton Hill near
by are some fine specimens of hut circles, one being particularly
noticeable. Lowton forms a part of the old Fernworthy settlement
(Ex. 20), and takes its name from a pile of rocks, anciently known as
Lowton Borough. This pile we shall see in front of us as we make our
way along the road past Metheral Farm gate. On reaching the corner
of the enclosures we leave the road, and keep straight on towards the
rocks. On and around this pile the hut circles will be seen, the striking
example to which we have alluded being not far from the summit.
This hut is 32 feet in internal diameter, and the stones of which its
wall is built are of very large size. Running round the interior of the
"wall is a low bench of stones, a most unusual feature in these erections.
A somewhat similar arrangement may be seen in a hut near the entrance
to Erme Pound (Ex. 32), but in that case the building is a small
rectangular one, of the kind associated with the tinners, whereas the
present example is circular, and of another type.
Striking S.W. we cross the Lowton Brook (R. 10 B, 36 B), above
the L. bank of which we shall find more hut circles. We now make
EXCURSION 21. KING'S OVEN. 17
our way up Assacotube Hill, our direction, being about S.S.W., and shall
soon look down into Assacombe, through which the brook of that
name runs northward to the Teign. Our course should bring us near
to a ruined farmhouse, sometimes known as Hamlyn's House, or
Assacombe House, and to the L. of this, i.e., a little S. of it, is a stone
row running down the slope in a direction due W. It is a double row,
and starts from a dilapidated circle at the eastern end, and extends for
a distance of nearly 75 yards. A few years ago this row was restored,
the tall stones at its higher end being set up. One of these may be
regarded as a menhir.
Making our way up through the combe we shall gradually leave
the little stream on the R., and pursuing a S.E. course shall pass over
Assacombe Hill to Water Hill, with Hurston Ridge on our L. Water
Hill, or Waters Down, as it is more frequently called — apparently
the Waterdown Rugge, of which there is mention in the early part of
the sixteenth century — rises behind the Warren House Inn. It is
rather amusing to find the summit of this hill described by a writer
under the impression that he was giving his readers an account of King"
Oven. He tells us that it was " generally regarded as a smel ting-
house of the 'old men,' " but that he could not " regard it as anything
but a oairn pure and simple." This certainly would not matter very
much, only it was rather unkind to say that many before him had
speculated " on the low cairn, the stone-lined trench, and the little
pits." We venture to think that very few since the days of the
Rev. E. A. Bray have mistaken Water Hill for King's Oven. Near
the summit of the hill is a double stone row, extending for a distance
of about 153 yards, its direction being S.W. and N.E. At the western
end is a dilapidated cairn and a menhir. Here a stone hammer was
found, which had been used as a trigging stone for one of the mono-
liths.
(The neighbourhood of the Warren House Inn, or Newhouse as it
is usually called there, is noticed in our account of the Post Bridge
District. See Part I).
Leaving the despoiled cairn on Waters Down we shall make our
way down the slope eastward, and when at a distance of 350 yard*
from it, and about £ m. N. of the Warren House Inn, shall find our-
selves on the site of the ancient blowing-house mentioned in the Per-
ambulation of 1240 as Furnum Regis, and in the Forest Survey of 1609
as King's Oven. In the scanty remains that now exist it would be
impossible to recognize the ruins of a smelting-house, and it is the
name alone that enables us to identify the site. Down to about the
second half of the eighteenth century it would appear that most of this
interesting structure, which in early times was probably the centre
of the tin streaming industry in this part of the moor, was standing.
I«ater the work of destruction was completed by the erectors of some
modern mine buildings near by, who supplied themselves with stone
from the ruins. All that is now to be seen is a low rampart, composed
of small stones, forming a circular enclosure rather over 70 yards in
diameter, in the centre of which is a roughly rounded stone measuring^
3 feet across, and near it a small pile of stones that seem to have had
one end worked into a rounded form. These were once taken away
from the circle to be used in a mine building near by, but before this,
was done the source whence they had been obtained became known,.
o3
i8 CHA6FORD AND MORETON DISTRICT.
and they were ordered to be taken back.* On the south side of the
circle is a dilapidated rectangular building, but this cannot with safety
be identified as part of the ancient smelting-house. Apparently it
belongs to a later day than that of the circle. Nothing is known of
King's Oven, for the Perambulators of 1240 merely mention it, and
do not say whether it was then in use. But however this may be we
shall hardly be wrong in supposing that its name was derived not
from being a furnace connected with tinworks belonging to Henry III.,
but to a much earlier king, for there cannot be a doubt of the high
antiquity of this smelting-place.
From King's Oven we shall bend our steps northward, and shall
soon reach the springs of the main branch of the Bovey river, known
locally as the Husson, i.e., Hurston, Water, but to which during late
years the name of the North Walla Brook has been given as being in
accordance with a certain view with regard to the forest boundary
line. It is true that the Perambulators of 1240 draw the line "in
longum Wallebroke " from the north towards King's Oven, but we
cannot be sure that the Bovey was intended, and as it is nowhere
spoken of as the Walla Brook, it is misleading to fasten that name
upon it. More than two hundred years ago the spot where this stream
rises was referred to as Bovey Combe Head.f But in support of the
contention in question the name North Walla Brook has been placed
on the Ordnance Map of Devon (XCIX., N.E.), although on the very
next sheet (LXXXIX., S.E.) the same stream is called the River
Bovey, which, indeed, it is well known to be. But the theory respect-
ing the forest boundary needed that the upper portion of it in the
neighbourhood of King's Oven only should be labelled Walla Brook.
Presumably it was deemed necessary to add " North " to the name
in order to distinguish the stream from the Walla Brook flowing south
f £
* This encircling bank was considerably damaged in 1910, sixty-
five feet of it being removed by a road contractor. Complaint was
made to the local authority by the Bailiff of Dartmoor, acting for the
Duchy, and it was requested that the stones should be taken back and
replaced as nearly as possible in their original positions. It was
pointed out that King's Oven was within the boundary of the forest,
and that the stones constituted what was an ancient monument of
considerable value. The stones were replaced. It is unfortunate that
instructions regarding these remains on Dartmoor are not given to
road contractors ; stone in abundance is to be found near the roads,
and there is no excuse, other than ignorance, for the destruction of pre-
historic monuments. Although the Duchy possessions are of the nature
of Crown lands, and not subject to the Highway Act, it has always been
the policy of the Duchy to adopt the principles of Acts of Parliament
as far as possible, and facilities for taking stone from unenclosed lands
for the repair of highways have invariably been given to local
authorities. With more light the spoliation of our stone remains might
be a matter of less frequent occurrence ; at present much watchfulness
is necessary to their preservation.
f Combe Head, on the northern slope of Hookney Down, 2 m.
distant, where another branch of the Bovey rises, has also been called
Bovey Combe Head. This, however, seems to have arisen through
confusing the name with Cullicombe Head. (Ex. 22).
EXCURSION 21. POUND ON THE BOVEY. 19
from King's Oven, and which becomes the forest boundary to the
East Dart. But what about the Walla Brook flowing into the Teign
at Scorhill ? By this rule, we suppose, that stream would be the
" North North " Walla Brook. The plan of arbitrarily naming objects
on the moor is a delightful one for getting over topographical diffi-
culties.
Keeping above the I/, bank of this little stream, on the further
side of which is Bush Down, sometimes spoken of as Bush Down Heath,
we shall find ourselves at the distance of about f m. from its source
opposite the old workings of the West Vitifer Mine. Soon after passing
these we have below us Lakeland Farm, which appears on Owen's
plan as Lakelawne,* and just beyond this, on the slope of the hill, and
about J m. N. by W. of the house, shall come upon a most curious and
interesting object. It is a circular pound 56 paces in diameter, but
the wall is totally unlike that usually found in such structures. Instead
of being composed of stones laid in courses this is formed of large
slabs set on their edges in the ground, and touching each other. On
the lower side of this enclosure, and quite close to it, are one or two
hut circles. The visitor who finds an interest in the examination of the
stone remains on the moor should certainly not fail to visit this curious
object.
Prom this point, if our destination be Chagford, we may either
return by striking N.W. across the common to the road near Metheral,
tinder £ m., and so make our way home by the road on the side of
Meldon to Waye (S. Ex. 56, 57), or we may shorten the distance by
turning into a track just above the enclosure and following it through
Hurston and Higher Corndon, as in S. Ex. 58, to Meldon Common.
A third way is by descending to the Bovey just below the pound, and
striking the stream near a ridge of rock on its eastern bank known as
Hurston Castle. Crossing it we make our way up the side of the hill
by a track running between the enclosures to the common, and
following a footpath I,., or N.E., direct to Jurston Gate (see R. 4 and
end of Ex. 22). If bound for Moreton this will be our course, but
instead of striking into the footpath we shall keep due E. on reaching
the common, which will bring us to the Chagford road. This we
cross, and also the shallow valley through which runs another branch
of the Bovey river, on the further side of which we climb up to the
Moreton road, which we reach not far from Moor Gate (R. 4).
It is satisfactory to note that although no gate now exists at this
spot the name by which it was formerly known is still retained. That
this has not been so in every case is unfortunate. In the Court Rolls
of the forest we meet with the names of a number of gates, and in
several instances the places where these stood cannot now be deter-
mined with certainty. It is therefore important that the names of all
spots at which gates were once to be found should be preserved when
they are known. The fact of the gate being removed ought not to
rob the place of its name, for that had reference to the point of entry
upon the commons as much as to the actual gate itself. (See Dictionary
of Terms in Part V).
* The edition of this plan published in 1720 is noticed in the
Tracks Section in Part I.
ao CHAGFORD AND MORETON DISTRICT.
Ex. 22. — Bush Down, Bennet's Cross, Bircn Tor, Stone Row at
Headland, Headland Warren, Grim's Pound [Hameldon Tor, Hamel-
don Cross, Berry Pound], Hookney Down, Shapley Common, Green
Combe. Chagford, n£ m. ; Moreton, 14^ m.
Prom Chagford the way will lie over the side of Meldon Common to
the moor gate beyond Jurston (see Chagford to Jurston Gate), and thence
along the road to its junction with the Princetown highway ; from
Moreton the same point will be reached by way of Moor Gate, beyond
which it is situated £ m. Here the road, for some £ m. onward, passes
between several small groups of hut dwellings, and a reave will also be
seen on the I,, of it, as well as the remains of others. We make our
way onward, with Birch Tor on the I,., to Bennet's Cross, which will
be seen on the I,, of the road, f- m., after passing the fifth milestone
from Moreton. The cross is very rudely sculptured, and is leaning
considerably on one side. Its original purpose was probably to mark
the track over the moor from Moreton to its western side, on the line
of which, as elsewhere observed, the present road was formed, but it
also serves as a boundary mark between the parishes of Chagford and
North Bovey. It is possible that the parish line determined its precise
situation, and that it was set up to serve the double purpose of a guide
and a bondmark. It also forms one of the tin bounds of Vitifer, as
well as a bound of Headland Warren. [Crosses, Chap. XIV.] The
letters W. B., which are graven on this cross, are supposed to stand for
Warren Bounds, and similar letters may be seen on a line of bond-
stones running from it. But the cross, which may have been an ancient
tin bound, was known as Bennet's Cross over two centuries since, and
it is worthy of note that the name of William Benet occurs in the list
of jurors who attended a Tinners' Parliament held on Crockern Tor
in the 24th of Henry VIII., as a representative of the Stannary of
Chagford.
Leaving this time-worn object, which may yet serve something
of that higher purpose doubtless intended by those who set it up, we
shall strike across the common in a direction E.S.E. to Birch Tor,
sometimes called Warren Tor, which is less than £ m. distant. The
extensive workings of Birch Tor Mine, once known as the old Vitifer
Mines, are on our R. as we proceed, and some of these we shall cross
on our way, and also pass one of the four small newtakes that are
supposed to represent the aces in the suits of cards. These four aces,
which are in view from the Warren House Inn (Ex. 45), were dropped
by the wicked Jan Reynolds, as related in our account of the sur-
roundings of Widecombe (S. Ex. 87). Among the workings of Birch
Tor are some very deep gullies, which are evidently of considerable
age. A curious circular shaft, cased with stone in the manner of a
well, has given the name of Walled Shaft Gully to one of these artificial
ravines. Another shaft of a similar kind is to be seen in Chough Gully,
22 CHAGFORD AND MORETON DISTRICT.
locally Chow, or Chaw, and so named from the rare Cornish bird
associated with the spirit of King Arthur. Southward of Birch Tor
Mine is the Golden Dagger Mine, briefly noticed in Ex. 44, and the
visitor will not fail to be struck with the extensive operations in the
search for ore of which the locality has been the scene.
Considerable mining enterprise has been shown in this district by
Mr. Moses Bawden, to whom we have already referred in our notice
of the White Works, near Princetown (Ex. 3 Part I).
We shall find nothing remarkable on Birch Tor, but the view from
it is good. A few hut remains are to be seen on its slope, and on the
northern side is a cairn, but it is not of great height. Still keeping a
course E.S.E. we shall direct our steps towards an artificial cleft in the
ridge before us, and on reaching it shall cross it, and keeping it on our I/,
make our way up the hill. Here we shall come upon a triple stone
row, the existence of which was recorded in 1830, but at that time the
whole of the stones composing it were lying on the ground. A few
years ago they were re-erected, so that the visitor has now something
to look at, but whether he will be able to find any interest in what is
only a late nineteenth century erection, formed out of old materials and
on an ancient plan, is another matter. No real antiquarian interest can
attach to such an erection as this, at the same time we are constrained
to admit that re-building is preferable to allowing the stones to lie upon
the turf, and this even at the risk of its being said (and it has been
said) that on Dartmoor you can be supplied with stone monuments
" while you wait." The row extends for about 170 yards, and at its
southern end there is a menhir. Some stones near by have been
thought to be the remains of other rows, of which, it is considered,
there were originally eight, but the evidence of this is not very clear.
Eastward of the ridge on which we stand, which terminates on
the S. at Challacombe Down, and on the further side of the valley of
the West Webburn, is a wide combe running up between the lofty
Hameldon, or Hamel Down, on the R., or S., and Hookney Down, on
the I/., or N. On one side this combe is overlooked by Hameldon Tor,
and on the other by Hookney Tor, and between these piles, neither of
•which is of striking proportions, is the large circular enclosure known
as Grim's Pound, and which is in full view and not more than \ m.
distant. To this we shall now make our way, and on reaching the
valley shall pass through the old workings of Headland Mine, with
Headland Warren House on the L. The situation of this lonely dwell-
ing is hardly one that would be deemed suitable for a hostelry, but
such, nevertheless, the house once was, rejoicing in the name of the
Birch Tor Inn, and in the palmy days of the mines in its vicinity did
not lack support.* The house was at one time kept by John Roberts,
a noted character in this part of the moor. In Mrs. Bray's Tamar and
Tavy there is an extract from Mr. Bray's Journal, of the 27th July, 1831,
on which day he visited Newhouse. He speaks of a sign that he was
told was once to be seen there on which an invitation was held out to
the traveller, and which, he says, he thinks he must himself have seen
when a boy. But from enquiries that I made in the neighbourhood
nearly forty years ago of old men who had been born and had lived all
* At Challacombe, i m. S., are the ruins of a building also said
to have been a beer-house.
EXCURSION 22. THE WARREN HOUSE INN. 23
their days on the moor, I am of opinion that Mr. Bray was misinformed,
and that the sign was not to be seen at Newhouse, but at Headland.
It ran thus : —
"Jan Roberts lives here,
Sells cider and beer,
Your hearts for to cheer ;
And if you want meat
To make up a treat
Here be rabbits to eat."
In this house for many years resided the late tenant of the Warren,
James Hannaford, who died in 1899, and was buried at Widecombe,
the coffin being borne over the great ridge of Hameldon. He was the
son of John Hannaford, who, early in the nineteenth century, lived at
Bear Down, and who died in 1868, aged 94 ; we have referred to him in
Ex. 5. Several years ago an adventure befel James Hannaford, when
he was crossing the common one dark night from the Warren House
Inn to his home at Headland. He approached so near to the edge
of one of the old shafts of which we have spoken, that the earth gave
way and he fell in. Fortunately he was caught in some woodwork,
and contrived to find a resting-place upon it. He could see nothing,
but heard the dripping of water below. His faithful collie remained on
the brink of the shaft during the whole of the night and the following
day, and gave evidence by his piteous whining that he knew his master
was in peril. His furious barking at length attracted the attention of
a search party, and with every manifestation of delight the trusty
animal led them to the shaft down which his master had fallen. J ames
Hannaford was rescued from his perilous position, but exposure
to the cold during that long night and day so affected him that he
was ever after crippled. But he lived for many years, and never
forgot that he owed his life to his faithful dog.
Climbing the further side of the valley we speedily reach the road
running from the Princetown highway to Grendon, Blackaton, and
Cator (R. 33). Near the spot where we strike this it is carried over a
little stream called Grim's Lake, at Firth Bridge. By following up
this stream we shall be led directly to the great hut enclosure we saw
from the hill.
Grim's Pound is a fine example of a walled hut cluster, but is not
more interesting than others on the moor, notably those existing in
the valleys of the Avon, Erme, and Yealm (Exs. 29 to 34), and more-
over there are some that are larger. But not one possesses so fine a
rampart, and it is this feature that renders the pound so striking. It
encloses a space of about four acres, the wall measuring over 500 yards
in circumferance. The stones composing this are very massive, and,
as a slight examination will reveal, were laid in courses. It was really
a double wall that ran around this area where the huts were grouped,
the space between the two probably being filled with earth. Judging
from the quantity of stones these walls were carried to a height of
about six feet, and upon this there is little doubt turf was piled, the
plan of construction, to compare small things with great, being not
unlike that of the walls of Babylon. For a long time the entrance to
Grim's Pound was a disputed point, the lower break in the wall being
thought by some to be the original gateway. But a careful examination
proved that this was on the S.E. side, as had been shown on a plan.
24 CHAGFORD AND MORETON DISTRICT.
made in 1829, and the stones being cleared away, and then placed in
the positions it was imagined they once occupied, the result was the
entrance upon which the visitor looks to-day. At one time a secret
passage leading through the wall was talked of. My eye of faith was
never piercing enough to allow me to see it. The wal], which is now
a mere ring of great stones, is only about four or five feet in height ;
it appears to have been about eight or ten feet in width, but the fallen
blocks being scattered this is now much greater. When in a complete
state such a barrier would ensure the safety of cattle against the
attacks of wolves or other wild animals, and prove a protection for the
settlers in case of a foray. There are the ruins of twenty-four hut
dwellings in the pound, some of them, however, being in a very
dilapidated condition, and two or three small enclosures, resembling
courts, may be seen on the inner side of the wall. The hut in the
centre was cleared some years ago in order that the internal arrange-
ments might be seen, and the iron hurdles placed round it to protect
it from injury by cattle. [Gems, Chap. VIII.]
It has been suggested that Grim was the name of a viking, who,
having forced his way into the heart of the moor, erected this strong-
hold. The name has also been considered to be a corruption of Graham,
or Graeme. As there is not the slightest proof that the Scandinavian
rovers ever visited Dartmoor, the first suggestion is, to say the least
of it, a very improbable one, nor does there appear any reason whatever
for the second. By some the name has been traced to Grima, an
Anglo-Saxon word for the Evil One, a derivation which at least pos
sesses the merit of being as probable as either of the others. It has
been the fashion to regard Grim's Pound as having something very
mysterious about it, this, no doubt, arising in great measure from
the accounts given of the pound by the older antiquaries, who, not
knowing the moor well, imagined it to be almost the only thing of its
kind upon it. They entered into the wildest speculations concerning
it, regarding it, among other things, as a temple of the Sun, and a seat
of judicature. But Grim's Pound is just what other similar enclosures
on the moor are, a place of security for cattle, and one in which men
could seek safety if the necessity for doing so arose. The fact of the
wall being formed of blocks more massive than were usually employed
for the purpose merely shows that the site chosen for the pound
happened to be strewn with lumps of granite of an extraordinary size.
There would, of course, be much difficulty in moving these, but we can
well suppose that a large number of men were employed on the task.
The Roman soldiers as we know never encamped even for a single
night without digging a ditch and throwing up a rampart, and while
it is certain that the neolithic men of Dartmoor, probably having no
cause for haste, and working with heavy material, exhibited no such
expedition, there is no reason for supposing that they were very long
in building their huts and enclosures.
[Hameldon is described in the Bovey Tracey District, but the
visitor will find in the Shorter Excursions which follow, directions for
reaching Hameldon Cross from Hameldon Tor, and also Berry Pound.
In the Shorter Excursions instructions are also given for reaching Grim's
Pound direct from Chagford and Moreton and from North Bovey.]
Grim's Pound is situated almost entirely in the parish of Manaton,
but that part of the wall below Hookney Tor is in the parish of North
EXCURSION 22. OBJECTS NEAR GRIM'S POUND 25
Bovey, the little Grim's Lake acting as a boundary between the two
From its head eastward the line is marked by boundary stones, and
runs under King's Barrow, our next point. This is rather over \ m.
N.E. by E. of the pound. We may either make our way to it direct,
or, if we prefer it, first climb the slope to Hookney Tor, whence we
have a good view of Grim's Pound. The tor consists of several small
piles of rock, and close to it is a cairn. The range of hills forming the
southern part of Dartmoor is distinctly visible, and looking through
the opening formed by Hameldon on one hand, and Challacombe
Down on the other, we see far away in the distance the peak of Brent
Hill rising beyond Buckfastleigh Moor, below which are the plantations
of Hayford. In a south-westerly direction South Hisworthy and
North Hisworthy are seen, and W. by S. the rocks of White Tor.
Siddaford is in full view W. by N.
Prom Hookney Tor to King's Barrow the distance is f- m., the
direction being E. by N. The cairn here is not a large one, and as will
be seen, has been opened. A little to the W. of it is a kistvaen within
a circle of stones. The few rocks near by are known as King Tor.
From this point we look down over the northern slope of Hookney
Down and across Combe Head to Westcombe Down, on which is
situated the East Vitifer Mine. At the head of this combe are some
hut circles, one of them being enclosed by a low wall, and presenting
a somewhat similar appearance to the Round Pound at Batworthy.
This we shall come upon if we make our way over Hookney Down to
Shapley Tor, pursuing a W.N.W. course. It is about \ m. from King's
Barrow, and close to a path running eastward from near Bennet's Cross
to the north of Birch Tor, and thence to the mine above mentioned
and to Westcombe, from which place there is a road to North Bovey.
This seems to be the hut mentioned many years ago by Mr. Ormerod
as existing near what he called Bovey Combe Head, but he is not
very definite about its situation and may have meant Cullicombe
Head.
Having visited Shapley Tor, 1,597 feet, we strike due W. down
the slope to the road, in order to examine a few hut circles near it
These will be found on either hand, but it is the huts on its western
side, or L. as we proceed northward, that will particularly claim our
attention. They are situated in Green Combe, near the head of a
small tributary of the Bovey, and the visitor will not fail to be struck
with the massive stones of which they are formed. The huge slabs
of granite of which one is built gives it quite a different appearance
from the ordinary hut dwellings on the moor. When the rambler
visits the Yealm, and sees the hut circles there with walls formed of
stone and turf ten feet thick, and compares them with the present
examples, and with others he may have observed, he will see that the
ancient dwellings on Dartmoor, though all of one general plan, differ
very materially in certain details.
Following the road northward we speedily arrive at the Princetown
highway, where, if our destination be Moreton, we turn R. to Moor
Gate, from which point we shall make our way to the town as described
in R. 4. If bound for Chagford we cross the road, and also the little
valley in front of us, our course being a trifle W. of N., to the road
running to that town, which will lead us very shortly to Jurston Gate.
We descend the hill, as in R. 4, and turn R. or E. towards Jurston
36 CHAGFORD AND MORETON DISTRICT.
Farm, soon after passing which we cross the Bovey at Jurston Bridge.
A short distance further on is Jurston Cross, where a guide-post will
show us that our way lies up the hill N. Keeping Meldon Common I/-
we soon reach Meldon Hall, beyond which we descend the road between
Padley Common and Nattadon to Chagford.
Shorter Excursions.
S. Ex. 48. — Throwleigh and Shilstone, 8^ m. To Chagford Bridge
and up Walland Hill to Murchington. Turn R. at the guide-post to
Higher Murchington, then turn L. and follow the road down to the
Blackaton Brook. Cross Wonson Mill Bridge (the road L. runs down
to Blackaton Bridge and up to Gidleigh) and climb the hill to Providence
Place, a short distance beyond which a road turns R. (guide-post), which
will bring the visitor to Wonson, a small hamlet named after the manor
house near by. (A footpath will be seen on the R. just after crossing
the bridge, which may be followed instead of the road. It leads to a
lane running by the manor house to the hamlet). Quite near to the
New Inn the ancient entrance to Wonson Manor will be seen.
From Wonson the road runs north-westward to Throwleigh,
$• m. distant. Another route to it is by way of Deave L,ane (S. Ex. 46).
Instead of turning R. shortly before reaching Wonson, the visitor
continues onward to Cross Park Cottage, and there turns R. into the
lane mentioned, which leads direct to the village. Near Cross Park
Cottage is the hamlet of Forder, where may be seen a good example
of the old manner of hanging gates to which we have more than once
referred. From Throwleigh the road leading upward to Shilstone
has been described in S. Ex. 46, and Throwleigh Common and Shilstone
Tor in Ex. 18. On reaching the verge of the moor at Shilstone the
visitor will turn southward, and follow the road very nearly to the
Forder Brook. Here a track I,, is carried down beside it to a lane,
by which he will be led past Ash to Forder. Here turn R., and at
the fork of the roads, where is a guide post, take the L. branch to
Chappie. Beyond this Chappie Brook is crossed, and the road followed
southward to Gidleigh.
Instead of turning down by the Forder Brook after leaving Shil-
stone the rambler may follow the road past Great and Little Ensworthy
and Moortown, and reach Gidleigh as described in R. 24. The way
from Gidleigh to Chagford is also given in that route.
S. Ex. 49. — Gidleigh, ^\ m. The road from Chagford to Gidleigh
has been described. Gidleigh is a small village, consisting of a church,
the ruins of an ancient castle, a manor house, a few cottages, and a
modern dwelling. The church is eminently characteristic of a Dart-
moor sanctuary, granite having been employed not only in the edifice
itself, but also in its furnishings, the pulpit, lecterns and reredos being
of this material. Not far off is the manor house, and quite near to
this the remains of the castle, which is of fourteenth century date. That
it was larger than has usually been supposed is proved by the discovery
of the foundations of ancient walls in its immediate vicinity, but at
the same time it is not likely that it was ever a very extensive building.
Shorter Excursions from Chagford and Moreton. 27
[Gems, Chap. VI.] The remains consist of a square tower, with a 'ower
chamber with steps leading to an upper apartment, in whirh is a fire-
place. At what period the Gidleys came into possession of the manor
is not certain, although it was probably very early.
The manor was purchased in 1819 by the Rev. Dr. Whipham,
and is now in the possession of his grandson, Mr. A. Guy Whipham.
of Gidleigh Park. This park, together with the adjoining property
of Scorhill, once formed part of the ancient Gidleigh Chase. It is
briefly noticed in S. Ex. 50. [Gems, Chap. VI.]
On leaving the castle the visitor will notice an old well by the
roadside, just opposite to the manor house gate. [Dev. Alps, Chap.
IX.] It is covered with granite slabs, and granite steps lead down ta
it. The way now lies by the manor pound, which has already received
mention. Turn L. up the hill, as in Ex. 19. Just after passing the
second sharp turning in the road a gateway will be noticed R., in which
the primitive method of fixing the bars between the upright granite
posts is seen. Looking across the field the visitor has a view of the
Rectory. A little further a road runs R. to this, and to Moortown.
and Ensworthy (Ex. 18). A few steps more and the visitor will reach
Creber Pound, and make his way up to the moor by South and North
Creber Farms, Ex. 19. On reaching the common turn L. outside the
enclosures, and by keeping close to the wall the head of Berry Down.
Stroll is reached (Ex. 19). The visitor will make his way down this
and at the bottom may either re-enter Creber Pound and return to
Gidleigh, or take the lane R. and passing Berry Down, follow it down
to Highbury Bridge.
Instead of returning through Murchington the v sitor will find it
a pleasant walk to go by way of Leigh Steps and Leigh Bridge. Just
before Murchington is reached there is a cross road, the R. one leading
towards the valley of the Teign. Into this the visitor will turn, and
it will bring him to a narrow pathway by which he will descend the
hill to the steps, where he will cross the river. Another path, running
on the R. bank, leads to Leigh Bridge, immediately below which the
North and South Teign unite. Between the steps and the bridge a
road branches to Gidleigh Park, being carried over the North Teign at
Gidleigh Park Bridge. On crossing Leigh Bridge, which is placed in
the midst of charming scenery, the rambler ascends the hill, passing
near the Puggie, or Puckie, Stone — the name probably being a corrupt-
ion of Pixy — which overlooks the river L. Very soon he will descend
towards Holy Street (pronounced Holly), and at the bend of the road
near it will pass an old cross built into the wall. [Crosses, Chap. XIII.]
The picturesque old mill that formerly stood near Holy Street, and
formed a favourite subject with so many artists, has now disappeared.
The road here runs by the side of a mill stream to the old woollen
factory at the foot of the hill leading to Chagford.
S. Ex. 50. — Gidleigh Chase and Teigncombe, 7 m. The first
point is Highbury Bridge, whence the rambler will ascend the road
towards Gidleigh, but instead of turning R. to the village, will continue
straight up the lane to Berry Down. Gidleigh Chase, or that part of
it now comprising the park and Scorhill, is situated on the L. as the
visitor ascends ; there is no doubt that it was formerly of much greater
extent, and lay open to the forest. Just before reaching Berry Down
28 Shorter Excursions from Chagford and Moreton.
a gate on the L. will enable him to obtain a glimpse of part of it, with
a view also of Gidleigh Tor, more generally known as Prinsep's Folly.
[Gems, Chap. VI.] On this tor are the remains of a house. This fine
hill we shall see to great advantage when we reach the southern side
of the river.
Passing Berry Down the visitor will make his way up the stroll,
and when about J m. from the bottom of it will reach an iron gate on
the L. This is an entrance to Scorhill and also a church path (T. 44).
The visitor will follow it to Scorhill House, a romantically situated
residence, which cannot, however, boast of much antiquity. It for-
merly belonged to Mr. Rowe, of Berry Down, from whom it was
purchased by Mr. Stark, who sold it to its present holder, the Rev. E. B.
Layard. Passing the house the visitor will descend to the North Teign
which he will cross where that stream forms an island, the channel on
each side being spanned by a clam. As he makes his way up the side
of the common in an easterly direction, a view of the chase will unfold
itself L. Very soon he will reach the road near the Round Pound
(Ex. 20), and may either follow this L,. to the moor gate or cross it,
and proceeding E. enter the short stroll leading to Teigncombe Common
Lane, which, being strewn with boulders and more nearly resembling
the bed of a stream than a track, has been playfully dubbed Featherbed
Lane. Near the gateway at Teigncombe some holed stones similar
to the one we observed at Fernworthy may be seen ; one of these has
a square hole, the other a round one. Here also are the remains of a
chapel, one of three formerly existing in the parish. Instead of
turning R. to Yeo Bridge and following the road to Chagford past
Thorn and Waye, the visitor will make his way down North Hill
Lane, where he will notice another holed stone. As he descends
he will have a good view of the wild chase, where oaks and hollies
clothe the slopes, and also of Gidleigh Tor, which crowns a heather-
clad hill rising boldly above the surrounding wood. In about £ m.
from Teigncombe the rambler will reach Leigh Bridge, when he will
have completed the circuit of the chase. From this point the road to
Chagford has been described (S. Ex. 49).
S. Ex. 51. — Scorhill Circle, Holed Stone in the Teign, Batworthy,
and Teigncombe, 8 m. To Berry Down Stroll, as in the preceding
excursion. Instead of turning into the path L. to Scorhill House,
the visitor will continue to the end of the stroll, and will then turn L.
and follow the wall of the enclosure. This he will notice is higher
and more carefully built than the ordinary newtake walls, and is also
furnished with a coping. Very soon he will reach another entrance
to the Scorhill grounds, where is an iron gate similar to the one in the
stroll. This, however, is but very little used. A ruined farmhouse
will be noticed just within the lower wall. Here the rambler turns R.,
and on reaching a leat, the same he saw in the stroll, and also at Rue
Lake (Ex. 19), will follow it to Scorhill Tor, or as the pile is usually
termed, Scorhill Rocks. Thence the leat will become his guide over
Scorhill Down to the stone circle described in Ex. 19. (The circle
may be reached direct from the head of Berry Down Stroll, S.W. by
W., or Scorhill Hill, 1,323 feet, the distance being ^ m.) From the
circle the visitor will make his way down to the North Teign to examine
the Holed Stone, and the single stone clapper known as Walla Brook
Bridge (Ex. 19). Crossing the river at Teign Clapper he will pass up
Shorter Excursions from Chagford and Moreton. 29
the side of Shovel Down, with the enclosures of Batworthy L., to
Batworthy Corner. The Shovel Down antiquities, which are near by,
are described in Ex. 20. The return may be by way of the road N.E.
past the Round Pound to the moor gate at Brimstone Down, or the
rambler may strike up over the common E. from the Round Pound
to Teigncombe Common Lane, as described in S. Ex. 50.
S. Ex. 52. — Watern Tor, direct, n m. To Teigncombe, either by
way of Yeo Bridge, or Leigh Bridge. Prom the hamlet the moor may
be reached by going up Teigncombe Common Lane (S. Ex. 50), or
by the gate at Brimstone Down. The next point is Batworthy
Corner, S.W. of the moor end of the lane, and approached by road
from the gate (Ex. 20). Watern Tor bears W. by N. from the corner,
from which it is distant 2 m., and is seen rising conspicuously from
the lofty ridge on which it is placed. But as to make a bee-line
towards it would necessitate crossing the Teign at a point where it
might not be convenient to do so, it will be best for the rambler to
make his way down the side of Shovel Down, with the Batworthy
enclosures R., to Teign Clapper (Ex. 19). Having crossed the Teign
here he will turn L. to Walla Brook Bridge, where he will cross that
stream, and thus find himself in the forks formed by the two. From
this point Watern Tor bears a little S. of W., and is i£ m. distant.
As the ground is here in places rather swampy it may not be possible
to follow a perfectly direct course to the tor, but the rambler will find
that it will not be necessary to diverge far from it. The tor is described
in Ex. 19.
Watern Tor. Wild Tor
FROM WAI,I,A BROOK CLAPPER, BOOKING WEST.
S. Ex. 53. — The Grey Wethers, direct, 13 m. The road is followed
to Metheral, as already described, and thence to Pernworthy, from
which place the route is given in Ex. 20. If the return is made the
same way the course to be followed from the circles is N.E. for about
i m., when the rambler will bear R. to Fernworthy.
S. Ex. 54. — Teignhead Farm, direct, 13 m. This is described in
Ex. 19. There is little difference in the distance between the Teign-
combe route, or that by Metheral. If the rambler chooses the latter
he will first make his way to the top of the lane at Fernworthy, as
in S. Ex. 53 ; see also Ex. 20. From the circle on Froggymead Hill
30 Shorter Excursions from Chagford and Moreton.
the course is a trifle N. of W., and the distance to Teignhead Bridge
about i m. The return by way of Stonetor Hill and Batworthy
Corner to Teigncombe is given at the end of Ex. 20.
S. Ex. 55. — Kes Tor and the Shovel Down Antiquities, 6$ m. The
first point is Teigncombe, which may be reached by way of Leigh
Bridge, or by the road past Waye and Thorn. The latter will take
the rambler by Yeo Mill, which being near South Hill probably occupies
the same site as one mentioned in a forester's account of the year 1491,
in which is an entry of " 6d. of new rent of John Wille, of Hille, for
having a course of water from the water of Teign within the Forest
of Dartmoor across the land of the Forest aforesaid, and venville, to
the mill of the said John at Stouthill, within the parish of Chagford,
to have and occupy the aforesaid watercourse to the aforesaid John,
his heirs, and his assigns, according to the custom of the Forest, as
appears on the Court Rolls."
Leaving Yeo Mill the rambler will pass through Teigncombe, and
make his way up the lane to the commons, which latter he will reach
very near to Kes Tor, 1,433 feet, a rock mass which has been almost
constantly in view during his wanderings in the neighbourhood of
Chagford. It has been suggested that the tor may have derived its
name from the Celtic kist, i.e., chest, which, indeed, is not improbable,
as its square form certainly gives it a resemblance to such an object.
Though not of great size Kes Tor is nevertheless striking in appearance,
its situation contributing greatly to this. The view from it is very
fine, and embraces many of the prominent hills on the eastern side of
the moor, as well as a wide extent of cultivated country. Cosdon
lifts up his great rounded form towards the N. (Okehampton District) ;
the rocks of Wild Tor and Watern Tor (Ex. 19) rise from the dusky
ridges westward, and beyond the latter is Newtake, overlooking the
morasses of Cranmere. White Horse Hill is seen L. of this, and due
S. are Hurston Ridge and Assacombe Hill. Away to the S.E. is Hey
Tor, seen to the L. of Hameldon (Bovey Tracey District), and L. of this,
but much nearer to us, the hill known as East Down, or Easdon
(S. Ex. 61), placed at the head of the Widecombe Valley. Turning
from the moor the visitor will look down upon Gidleigh Chase and
Chagford, and will mark the entrance to the gieat gorge of Fingle
(S. Ex. 66, 67). Far away beyond the Teign is Haldon, and looming
indistinctly against the northern sky the hills of Exmoor.
There are several rock basins on Kes Tor, but one is particularly
noticeable, being by far the largest on the moor. Previous to 1856
its existence was unknown, as it had been filled with earth, probably
being regarded as dangerous to sheep or cattle. In that year it was
discovered by Mr. Ormerod, and on its being cleared it was deemed
advisable to surround it with an iron rail. Its longer diameter at the
top is about i\ feet ; the sides are sloping, the diameter at the bottom
being about 2 feet. It is just over 2^ feet in depth.
The Shovel Down stone rows commence to the W.S.W. of the tor,
and are less than £ m. from it. For a description of these see Ex. 20.
On returning from Kes Tor the rambler may either strike due
N. for about \ m., and then bear R. to the stroll at the head of Teign-
combe Common Lane : or N. by W. to the Round Pound, thence
following the road R. over Brimstone Down to Teigncombe hamlet.
Shorter Excursions from Chagford and Moreton. 31
S. Ex. 56. — Frenchbere and Thornworthy, 7-^ m. To Yeo Bridge by
Waye Barton (S. Ex. 55). On crossing this the visitor will turn up the
"hill L., and in about £ m. will reach the farm of Great Frenchbere ;
he will notice some holed stones built into the wall of the enclosures
as he proceeds. Passing the farm he will enter upon the common,
with Frenchbere Tor a little in advance of him on the R. Before
reaching this he will notice a hut circle. From the tor he will bear
southward to Thornworthy, in the walls of the enclosures of which
are some more circular holed stones. Some of these may be unfinished
millstones, left by those engaged in cutting them in consequence of
the stone being found to be unsuitable for the intended purpose, and
others were perhaps used by tinners, being similar to those at Riddy
Pit, noticed in Ex. 2. Others may be seen in different parts of
the moor. Below Thornworthy, in the narrow glen through which
the South Teign leaves the wastes through which its earlier course
has led it, is the stream-work and blowing-house referred to in Ex. 21.
There are in fact two mining buildings, and a good example of a trough
and mould-stone. A similar story attaches to these old houses to
the one related of Snails' House, in Lough Tor Hole, on the East Dart.
(See Ex. 44, Part I ; Ex. 30, Part IV ; and Dev, Alps, Chap. IV). On
Thornworthy Down is Thornworthy Tor, less than £ m. W.N.W. of the
farm, and to this the rambler will now make his way. N.E. by N. of
it, and £ m. distant, is Middle Tor, which is worth a visit. From
Middle Tor it is not far to Kes Tor, from which the routes to Chagford
are given in S. Ex. 5 5 .
The return may also be made by way of Frenchbere and Yard-
worthy ; the distance is very little further. From the first-named farm
a path leads down to a wooden foot-bridge on the South Teign. This
the rambler will follow, and crossing the river will make his way up
through Yardworthy to the road. Turning I,., or N.E., he may either
take the R. or L. branch at the forks. The R. will lead him to the
western edge of Meldon Common (he must not turn R. before reaching
it), whence he will follow the road to Waye, or cross over the down as
in S. Ex. 57. The L. branch will give him a better view of the narrow
vale through which the South Teign runs. He will also pass Collihole,
the ancient Collerewe ; the house is a good example of the moorland
homesteads of a former day. Here, as in other old houses in the moor-
land region, some of which are to be seen in the valley of the Tavy,
while others are noticed in our description of the Post Bridge District,
the shippen, or cowshed, adjoined the living looms, and the inmates
and the cattle all entered at one door. It will be seen that the house
stands on a site excavated from the side of the hill, an arrangement
observed elsewhere on the moorland borders, and which was doubtless
intended for shelter. Collihole now forms part of Hole Farm, which
the visitor will pass a little further on. Beyond this he will reach
Thorn, where he will turn R. to Waye and Chagford.
S. Ex. 57. — Meldon, Nattadon, and Week Down. These elevated
commons are situated to the S. of the town of Chagford, the summits
of the first and last named being about i m. from the church. Natta-
don is a little nearer. Meldon is reached from the Square by way of
High Street (in which is the well-known hostelry, the Three Crowns,
once a house belonging to the Whiddons) and the School, opposite
to which is a path leading to Padley Common, a small down lying
32 Shorter Excursions from Chagtord and Moreton.
at the northern foot of this fine hill. From this point the visitor
may make his way direct to the top, 647 feet above the churchyard,
or 1,280 feet above sea level, where are some scattered masses of
granite, and from which a fine view is commanded. Another way is
by passing the School and following the road to Meldon Hall, just
before arriving at which it touches the common, or by going still
further on to Higher Weddicott, from which the summit is only a
short distance.
Nattadon may also be reached by the same road, the visitor turn-
ing L. a little short of Meldon Hall ; or he may strike into a path at
Highfield, which will also bring him to the common. This hill, the
north-western slope of which is strewn with granite, attains an eleva-
tion of about i ,000 feet. On its eastern edge the path alluded to joins
the road that comes up from the town by the Rectory, and at a point
very near to where it enters upon Week Down, which common is
noticed in S. Ex. 61.
The road on the south-western verge of Meldon Common, between
Waye and Tawton Gate near Yardworthy, may be reached by striking
over this hill from Padley Common in a south-westerly direction,
leaving the summit L. In reversing this the rambler will leave the
road at the guide-post, and, of course, strike N.E. This route may
be preferred by visitors making their way to or from that part of the
moor in the neighbourhood of Metheral.
S. Ex. 58. — Warren House Inn, direct. By the moor from C.,
ii m. ; by road from C., 10 m. From Moreton the route is by road
only, \2\ m. BY THE MOOR. This route will first take the rambler
to the moor at Tawton Gate, which point he may reach by the road
branching off at Waye (See Chagford to Metheral ); or he may join
the same road by striking up over Padley Common, as in S. Ex. 57
On entering upon Yardworthy Common, near a large newtake en-
closed about seventy years ago, the rambler will turn L., with
the wall of Willandhead close on that hand, and make his way due S.,
with Metheral Brook on his right. In 1240 this stream seems to have
been called the Alber, or Aber, but the name is now lost. The peram-
bulators of that date draw the boundary line of the forest in this part
of the moor through the midst of the Turbary of Alberysheved,* and
this can only have reference to the peaty ground near the head of
this stream. In 1609 the jury of survey identified it as such, though
the spot was then called Turf Hill, and this name it also bore some
ninety years later, when, however, it was also known as Black Fen.
In the earlier part of the nineteenth century it was referred to as Broad-
moor Mires, but it is now generally known as Metheral Bogs. About
£ m. from the point at which the rambler has entered on the moor the
wall on the L. is carried toward the S.E., so that in pursuing a southerly
course he will gradually leave it. When he has proceeded about £ m.
from the point where it strikes off he will be abreast of the head of the
bogs, which should be J m. R. This part of the moor is noticed in
R. 25, in Ex. 21, and in T. 44, where also are some remarks on
the old track that ran over Hurston Ridge. The course will now be
*Among other forms in which this name appears are Alberyshede,
Aberesheved, and Aberheve.
Shorter Excursions from Chagford and Moreton.
33
W. of S., to avoid dropping down in the valley of the Bovey, and in
a little over i m. the Warren House Inn will be reached.
Hameldon.
N.E.
FROM NEAR WARREN HOUSE INN, I.OOKING E.
No directions for the return route are needed, as the rambler will
merely steer E. of N. from the Inn, changing his course to due N.
when about i£ m. from it, and on reaching the road between Metheral
and Yardworthy will turn R. and make his way to Chagford as in
S. Ex. 56, 57.
The Warren House Inn may also be reached by way of the Bovey
river. The rambler will proceed for the first 2 m. or so as above
(see also Chagford to Metheral}, but at the turning beyond Tanna-
ford he must strike into the road I/., which will lead him to Higher
Corndon, whence a lane runs down to the river. This he will follow
upwards to Hurston, and passing through the farm, reach the common
by a track running between the enclosures. A short distance to the
I/, of the point at which he emerges upon it is the pound described in
Ex. 21. The rambler will now strike southward, with the Bovey, or
Hurston Water, in the valley !,., to King's Oven, i| m. distant, and
about £ m. N. of his destination.
The first part of the reverse of this route will be found in Ex. 21,
where directions are given for reaching the pound above Lakeland
just referred to. On leaving this he will strike into the track 200 yards
N.W. of it, and will shortly reach Hurston, beyond which he will follow
the Bovey downward for nearly \ m. Here, where it bends R., he
will leave it, and pass up the lane to Higher Corndon, at which farm
he turns ~L,. and then R. and shortly reaches the S.W. corner of Meldon
Common. From, this point the route is described in S. Ex. 56, 57.
BY ROAD. Prom Chagford the way lies past the School and up
the hill due S. to Meldon Hall, as in S. Ex. 57, and thence to Jurston
Gate, as already described (see Chagford to Moor Gate via Jurston Gate).
This gate, which is about 2^ m. from the town, is hung between two
masses of rock, on one of which there are three basins. The road
is now followed over the common for about i m., when it is joined
by that coming I,, from Moreton. On this hill are the Chagford Golf
Links.
Prom Moreton to Moor Gate q.v. The junction with the road
D3
34 Shorter Excursions from Chagford and Moreton.
from Chagford is about J m. further on, between which two points the
road to Challacombe and Cator branches L. (R. 33). From the junction
the Princetown road runs in a south-westerly direction, and this is now
followed. In the valley on the R. is Lakeland, and the disused West
Vitifer Mine (Ex. 21). Further on the road runs by Bush Down,
with Bennet's Cross L. (Ex. 22), and shortly afterwards enters the
forest, the boundary being marked by a tiny stream — the head waters
of the Walla Brook, which flows S. to the East Dart. Just within
the boundary is the WTarren House Inn, which is noticed in Ex. 45.
(These road routes from Chagford and Moreton form the first part
of R. 35).
The return by the road is given in R. 4.
S. Ex. 59. — -Grim's Pound, direct. From C., 9} m. ; from M.,
n£ m. From Chagford the route to the moor at Jurston Gate, as
above, must be followed. About 200 yards beyond the gate the road
must be deserted and a southerly course struck. (Bear a little E. of S.)
This will take the rambler across the branch of the Bovey rising in
Green Combe, and on climbing the slope on the further side of it he
will find himself at the point where the road to Challacombe diverges
from the Princetown highway. This Challacombe road must be
followed as in R. 33, for a distance of nearly i^ m., when Firth Bridge
will be reached, with Grim's Pound in the wide combe I,. (Ex. 22).
If preferred the rambler may strike over the common L. instead of
following the Challacombe road from the highway, and visit Shapley
Tor and Hookney Tor en route.
From Moreton the visitor may reach the pound either by way of
Moor Gate or North Bovey. The latter is the shorter, and the route
is sketched in S. Ex. 61 and 62. The road to Moor Gate has already
been described, and it is now only necessary to mention a few objects
the rambler will pass. About £ m. from the town, on the R. of the
•way, is an entrance gate to Lowton, where are two granite pillars.
One bears the date 1720, and the other the letters I.S., and on each
is an emblazoned shield. It is evident that these once formed one
stone, and that the carving was on a panel, part of the moulding of
which is still to be seen. At Bughead Cross, just over i m. from More-
ton, is an old guide-stone bearing the initials of Moreton, Newton,
Tavistock, and Chagford. This part of the road was once the haunt
of a mysterious individual named John Fall, who seems to have been
a highwayman with a penchant for frightening his victims by a kind
of Spring-heel Jack performance. In ascending the hill after crossing
Worm Hill Bridge, a gate hung in the primitive manner will be observed
on the R. At Beetor Cross, where a road comes up R. from Beetor
Farm, is another old guide-stone, and a little further on, where the
road branches L. to Barramoor Bridge (R. 32, 53), the ancient stone
cross, erected in all piobability to mark the track across the moor on
the line of which the present road runs, will be seen on the hedge L.
For many years this cross served as a guide-post in a field near by,
but was placed in its present situation, \\hich there is little doubt is
very near to its original site, in 1900. [Crosses, Chap. XIV.] Thii
spot is also known as Watching Place, and it is said that a gibbet was
once erected here, the criminal whose corpse was hung upon it being
the last to be made such an example of in this neighbourhcod.
(The road I/, runs eastward, to Barramoor Bridge and Ashburton,
Shorter Excursions from Chagford and Moreton. 35
turning S. 1 50 yards on. The other branch goes E. to Hele, where is
another stone cross [Crosses, Chap. XV.], and passing Bowden Mill
is carried over a branch of the Bovey flowing from near Vogwell
Down (Ex. 23), and reaches Yard, just beyond which it crosses Bovey
Bridge and enters the village of North Bovey).
From Beetor Cross the road to the moor, i m. distant, runs south-
westerly. J ust before it is reached there is a turning across some fields
~L<. leading to a small farm named Liapa. Here the upper portion of
a fine granite cross may be seen built into the garden wall [Crosses,
Chap. XIV.]
On reaching Moor Gate the rambler may desert the Princetown
road and strike up over Shapley Common L. to Shapley Tor, noticing .
some hut circles as he proceeds. The course is at first S.W. by S.,
with the enclosures L,., but in less than £ m. this is changed to S., and
then to E. of S. By this route Shapley Tor is about i m. from Moor
Gate. Hookney Tor is f m. S. of it, and Grim's Pound is immediately
below this. The return is given in Ex. 22.
S. Ex. 60. — Hameldon and Berry Pound. Add 2 m. to the distances
given in S. Ex. 59. Prom Chagford, Grim's Pound will be the first
point, instructions for reaching which are given in S. Ex. 59. Thence
tlie visitor will make his way to Hameldon Tor, 1,737 feet, sometimes
called Grim's Tor, which is quite near to the pound 'and is seen from
it S.E. A fine view of the great hut enclosure is obtained from the
rocks. About ^ m. from them, S. by E., is Hameldon Cross. This is
noticed in our description of the ridge of Hameldon given in the
Bovey Tracey District, to which the reader is referred. Rather over
% m. E. by S. of the tor, and about the same distance E.N.E. of the
cross, is Berry Pound, also noticed as above. Prom this enclosure
King's Barrow is £ m. N.N.W., and Grim's Pound rather more than
that distance W.N.W.
Prom Moreton the route may be by Moor Gate, as in S. Ex. 59,
or through North Bovey. For the latter see S. Ex. 61 and 62.
For the return route from the pound see Ex. 22 and S. Ex. 61.
S. Ex. 61. — North Bovey and East Down. C., n^ m. ; M., 6% m.
The visitor from Chagford will pass up the hill S. of the church with
the rectory grounds L. to Week Down, whence a fine view is presented
of the district over which our rambles have extended. Kes Tor stands
up well between Nattadon, or Nat Tor Down, as it has sometimes been
called, R., and Meldon Hill L. Here, by the roadside, is an old granite
cross, having an incised Maltese cross on each face. It is leaning
somewhat out of the perpendicular. This cross, together with Shorter
Cross, which the visitor will pass a little further on, I have described
elsewhere [Crosses, Chap. XIII.] Shorter Cross stands near the down
on the L. of the lane leading from it to Middlecott, which is the next
point. After passing this place, which consists of three farmhouses,
avoid taking the first turning L. The lane only leads to some fields, but
bend sharp to the L. just after to the guide-post. Here the I,, branch
must be followed to Thorn, where some holed stones will be noticed.
A very short distance beyond tie farm a road branches R., or S., which
will bring the visitor to a point on the Moreton and Moor Gate road,
if- m. from the former place, where is a guide-post. This road must
36 Shorter Excursions from Chagford and Moreton.
be crossed and the lane, which is a very winding one, be followed, the
general direction being S.E. A little way in is a turning to the R. ;
this must be passed. About ij m. on is a guide-post, and here is
the manor pound. The road to the village, which is close by, runs to
the R. of this.
From Moreton the road bearing L. near the White Horse Hotel is
followed for a few score yards, when the visitor will branch R. (The
road going straight on, or S., leads into one shortly to be reached, and
runs to Lustleigh). About i m. further one this is met at Bovey Cross,
or Horse Pit Cross [Crosses, Chap. XV.] It comes N. from Sandy Park
(S. Ex. 67, 68), and Easton, and goes to Lustleigh by way of Sanduck.
Less than £ m. beyond Horse Pit Cross is the pound mentioned above.
North Bovey has happily preserved its old restful air. Removed
from the high road and the railway it is now almost as ever it was.
Although not altogether typical of a Dartmoor border village, there
is certainly not one that is more pleasing. The houses, one of which
bears the date 1738, surround a playstow, shaded by a grove of ancient
oaks. The village cross is an interesting feature. For a time this
served the purpose of a footbridge, but was set up in its present
situation in 1829 by the Rev. J. P. Jones, who was then curate of the
parish. [Crosses, Chap. XV.] Mr. Jones was the author of a small
book on the scenery and antiquities of Moretonhampstead, and another
on the scenery in the neighbourhood of Ashburton, both first published
in 1823.
North Bovey Church, which is perpendicular in style, possesses
no monuments of importance. The tower has a projecting stair
turret.
A new manor house has lately been built in the Week Valley by
the Hon. W. F. D. Smith.
Near the village is art interesting object. It is a memorial set up
by a loving hand, and stands in a field belonging to Fairbrook, which
is reached by crossing the bridge near Broadmead Cottage, and turning
into a gateway on the right a short distance up the lane. Beneath a
large oak, on a granite block in situ, rests a square slab of the same,
and on this is placed a small kist, the inner side and ends, as well as
the cover-stone, being also of granite, and carefully worked, while the
front is of white marble. On this is the following inscription :
FLORA,
THE MUCH LOVED FRIEND
AND
COMPANION OF HER MASTER.
7 July, 1834.
Surmounting the whole is a small granite obelisk. This little
monument, which conveys so much to us, was erected by Captain
Britten to the memory of his faithful dog.
North Bovey village is overlooked on the S.W. by East Down,
or Easton Down, as it is now usually called, a fine eminence at the N.,
or upper end of the Widecombe Valley. It is approached by crossing
Bovey Bridge and following the road towards Yard for about a furlong,
and then turning up a lane L. to the down which is close by. Its
length from N. to S. is about i£ m., and its breadth about I m. On
Shorter Excursions from Chagford and Moreton. 37
its southern verge are the farms of Easdon and Barracott, N. of the
former being East Down, or Easdon Tor, and N. of the latter, Easdon
Hill. The down may also be reached from the village by crossing the
Bovey at the lower bridge near Broadmead Cottage, and taking the
R. branch of the road at the first forks to Bowda. There are a number
of hut circles upon it, and if the visitor goes by way of the lane near
Yard he may meet with some of these by steering a S.S.W.^course,
which will also bring him to the tor crowning the hill, when he will
have attained an elevation of 1,440 feet. He will first pass the disused
workings of Great Wheal Eleanor, above Hourder Plantation, and
continuing his way up the steep ascent, will reach a group of hut circles
in about £ m. Another group is situated to the S.E. of the tor. Just
before reaching the rocks the line of stones marking the boundary
between the parishes of North Bovey and Manaton is passed. The
view from the summit is good, all the chief hills and tors in the vicinity
being in sight. Southward is the Widecombe Valley, Honeybag, and
Chinkwell being on the L., and Hameldon R. (Bovey Tracey District).
To the N.W. is Cosdon, which is seen from every lofty place on the
E. side of the moor. East Down is in view from Brent Hill (Brent and
Ivybridge District), and from the Kingsbridge road above Wrangaton
Station (R. 47). Many years ago I used to be amused at hearing the
landlord of the hotel at that place point out the hill to visitors
as Yes Tor. There is a large block of granite on this pile known as the
Whooping Rock, and so called according to a note in Carrington's
Dartmoor (poem, 1826) from the noise it made in tempestuous weather,
presumably occasioned by the wind rushing through some aperture.
But it has also been said to have obtained this name from a custom
formerly observed in the locality of taking children to the tor when
suffering from whooping cough, in order that they might be near the
sheep, a belief once existing that those afflicted with that complaint
would be cured if left for a time among those animals.
At Easdon Farm some sixteenth and seventeenth century silver
coins were found several years ago, together with an old jack-knife,
concealed in the house. An Account of these was given by the late
Mr. William Pengelly in the Transactions of the Devonshire Association,
Vol. XII. Not far to the west of Easdon is Vogwell, of which there is
a very early mention. The name appears in a document found among
the Exeter Cathedral archives, dealing with the boundaries of certain
lands in this neighbourhood in Saxon times, but in a slightly different
form. The boundary line being drawn from Lustleigh to Witheoombe
Head, is then said to go " from thence to Lime Stream, and so to
Voghill Lake ; and along that lake to Voghill's Head." That Voghill
is the present Vogwell there can be no doubt.
Prom Easdon Farm the return to North Bovey may be by way of
the hill, the course to be steered being N.N.E. On reaching the road
below Wheal Eleanor turn R. to Bovey Bridge. Then passing through
the village leave it by the road above the New Inn, and pass up to the
pound. The guide-post here will show that the R. branch of the road
— running N.E. — must be taken. Soon afterwards the Lustleigh road
is crossed at Horse Pit Cross, and in another i£ m. Moreton will be
reached.
The visitor from Chagford will, of course, take the L. branch at
the pound, and in f m. will cross the Moreton and Moor Gate road.
38 Shorter Excursions from North Bovey.
He will then turn L. to Thorn, thence following the road to Middlecott
and Week Down. (The guide-post £ m. beyond Thorn will show that
he has to take the road running W. and then N.W.) From Week
Down the road leads down the hill direct to the town.
[If preferred the return from Easdon to Chagford may be by the
way of Beetor Cross. The road running N.W. from the farm is followed
for i£ A. to Barramoor Bridge (R. 53). Between these points a road
branches R. to Langdon, after which there is a cross road, and then
another road R. to Gratnar ; avoid turning into either. N. of the
bridge there is another turning R. where a road runs to Hele ; this
must be passed also. About £ m. further on is a guide-post, where the
road to Watching Place, or Beetor Cross, turns L- At the cross turn,
sharp R., or N., and then almost immediately L., and passing Beetor
Farm follow the road to Beetor Bridge, where the Bovey is crossed,
and thence N. to the guide-post near Stiniel. Leave this farm L.,
and about ^ m. further on turn L,. to Lower Weddicott. Just beyond
this is Higher W'eddicott, where the rambler will turn R., or N., and
speedily reach Meldon Hall. The way to the town lies straight down
the hill, N.
S. Ex. 62. — North Bovey to Grim's Pound, 6| m. Crossing Bovey
Bridge the rambler will make his way to Yard, rather over £ m., where
he will take the L. branch at the forks reached immediately after passing
that place. £ m. further the road again forks, and here. also he will
strike into the L. branch, and follow the road to Langdon, which is
rather more than \ m. distant. Very soon after that farm is passed the
Chagford (R.) and Ashburton (L.) road is reached (R. 32), and here the
visitor will turn L-, but will only follow it for a few score yards, when
he will strike into a path R. running across some enclosures. This
leads to Kendon and Heathercombe, to the first of which farms he must
make his way. On crossing the branches of the Bovey that flow from
near Vogwell Down, close to where they unite, the path runs
southward by the stream, and £ m. up a lane branches R. This will
lead the rambler to Kendon, which is near by. This farm is one of
the ancient vills, and appears four hundred yeais ago as the " hamelett
de Kyndon," when it paid a venville rent of id. The lane is continued
past this to the moor, which is less than £ m. distant. The rambler
will now find himself below King's Barrow, which bears W.S.W., and
which has already been noticed. On reaching this he will see the
wide combe in which Grim's Pound is situated — the pound itself is
about £ m. S.W. by W. As the surroundings have been described in
Ex. 22, the rambler is referred there for further directions.
If the return from Grim's Pound to North Bovey is to be made
over the same road by which the rambler has approached it, he will
first direct his steps to King's Barrow, as in Ex. 22, and then strike
E.N.E. to the lane leading to Kendon, thence passing by the farm to
the stream. This becomes his companion down to the point where it
unites with another, when it is crossed, and the path running N.E.
followed to the Chagford road. Here turn L., and then immediately
R. up the hill to Langdon, on passing which the descent to Yard is
commenced, the common being kept close on the R.
Another way of returning is by Heathercombe. Pass up the
combe due E. from Grim's Pound, and in I m. the enclosures of this
BANKS OF TEIGN. KINGSTON ROCKS. 39
farm will be reached. A little stream which runs close to it will first
be struck. On passing Heathercombe the path I,., which is carried
along by the side of the Bovey branch mentioned above, is followed
down the valley due N. to the lane L. leading to Kendon, Vogwell
Farm, R., being passed on the way. From this point directions have
been given above.
S. Ex. 63. — North Bovey to Manaton, 44- m. Just beyond the
bridge near Broadmead Cottage a lane turns L,. This must be passed,
but at the fork a little way further on, the L. branch must be followed.
£ m. on Higher Luckdon is passed R., and then Lower Luckdon I/.
(R. 32). Just beyond this a footpath leads across some fields L.
Follow this, and on reaching another road, cross it, and strike into one
running S.E. This passes through Neadon (Bovey Tracey District,
Short Excursions), £ m. beyond which the rambler turns R. and ascends
the hill to the village, nearly £ m. distant.
Another way is by going through Langstone. The field path
mentioned above must not be chosen, but the road followed to the
farm named, where is a guide-post. Turn R., and almost immediately
after strike into a path L. This runs across a field to some enclosures
on the down N. of Manaton Rocks, and may be followed to the road,
which climbs the hill from Neadon. Here turn R. to the village.
The return is given in the Shorter Excursions in the Bovey Tracey
District.
Cosdon. Chagford visitors will proceed via Shilstone Hill, and
Clannaborough Down ; directions for reaching Shilstone Tor are given
in R. 38 A. Vide S. Ex. 47 and the section on Cosdon in the Oke-
hampton District, Part II.
The Banks of the Teign.
Although, as De la Beche has pointed out, the region bounded on
the north and east by the Teign, and embracing the parishes of Moreton,
Bridford, Christow, and Hennock, is geologically and geographically
one with Dartmoor, it has never been looked upon as forming
part of it, nor is there any mention of it in connection with the forest
or commons of Devon. The true eastern boundary of the moor, south
of the Teign, runs through the parishes of Chagford, North Bovey,
and Manaton, to Lustleigh, and the district referred to is altogether
outside this. But within its confines are a number of hills and tors of
a character precisely similar to those on Dartmoor itself, and although
this large tract does not come within the scope of this book, it may
perhaps be well to notice briefly the chief of these. To one part of this
district — The Gorge of Fingle and Drewsteignton, which are near
Chagford and Moreton — it will be necessary to devote a little more
attention. This is therefore described in a series of short excursions.
About i m. from Moreton, and approached by the Exeter road,
which leaves the town by way of Cross Street, where the old alms-
houses are situated (this runs eastward from the White Hart Hotel),
is Kingston Down, the summit of which, crowned with the granite
masses known as Kingston Rocks, attains an elevation of over 1,000
feet. On the eastern side of this down two roads, branching from
the Exeter highway, run southward, one of them (the R. in following
40 BANKS OF TEIGN. BLACKSTONE AND WHITSTONE.
that course) leading to Pepperdon Down, and the other to the common
on which is situated the fine Blackingstone Rock. Further E. is
Laployd Down, adjoining which is Beacon Down, and S. of these
the Kennick Reservoir. This is over J m. in length, and communi-
cates with the Tottiford Reservoir, the both forming the collecting
basin of the water supply of Torquay. Towards Christow, which is
about 2 m. from these fine sheets of water, are Clampitt Down, Kiln
Down, and Inn Down, and S. of these, and between Christow and
Hennock, are Waye Down and Barton Down. North-west of the
village of Christow, the church of which formerly belonged to the great
Abbey of Bee, in Normandy, and afterwards to Tavistock Abbey, is
Bridford, anciently Bridgeford, proverbial for its remote situation,
and between these two places is a pile known as Skat Tor, 948 feet,
more frequently referred to as Skatter Rock. This is finely situated
on the summit of Christow Common, and commands a charming view
of that part of the valley of the Teign a short distance below Dunsford
Bridge. About i m. N. of Bridford, and on a hill that sweeps abruptly
down to the Teign, is Hel Tor, whence the climber to its breezy summit
looks over a wide extent of East Devon, the panorama being as beautiful
as it is varied. Blackingstone Rock, or Blackystone, as it is always
called, is rather more than i m. W. by S. of Hel Tor, and about the
same distance E. of Kingston Rocks. Being well placed, and having
an elevation of considerably over 1,000 feet, this pile forms another
point from which a magnificent view is to be obtained. Like Hel Tor,
it is seen for many miles round, but according to tradition there was
a time when these tors were not to be seen at all. This tells us that
on the hills on which they are placed King Arthur and the Evil One
once took their stand and threw quoits at each other, an encounter
in which the latter was defeated. As the quoits fell they became
changed into rocks, and thus the masses that we now look upon were
formed. Not far from Blackingstone is a pile of rocks bearing the
name of the Druids' Altar. The reader will expect to find this, for he
knows by this time that the Druids were ubiquitous. These tors are
called by Risdon Blackstone and Whitstone. The present name of
the latter has no connection with the British king's adversary, this
simply implying height.
Further south on this high land between the Wray and the Teign
are other rock piles. The chief almong these are referred to in our
account of the Bovey Tracey District.
The rambler will find the walk from Moreton to Dunsford Bridge
a very charming one ; the road runs to the N. of the tors just noticed.
In descending towards the bridge, Woodhill, an outlying boulder-
strewn eminence, is passed on the R. A lane leads from the village
of Dunsford to Clifford Bridge, whence the way to Moreton is described
in S. Ex. 64.
S. Ex. 64. — Mardon Down, Clifford Bridge, and Wooston Castle.
(From Moreton). j\ m. Following the road on the north side of the
church we take the L. branch at the forks, and climb the hill to Mardon
Down, about i m. from the town. Here we have a fine view of the
eastern frontier of Dartmoor, Hey Tor rising very conspicuously to
the S. On Mardon are some antiquarian remains, but they have been
despoiled. About £ m. on the R. soon after entering on the down the
BANKS OF TEIGN. WOOSTON CASTLE. 41
visitor will find some vestiges of a cairn known as the Giant's Grave,
1,170 feet, and a little to the north of this part of a stone circle, either
a hut dwelling or ring of stones surrounding a cairn. £ m. N.E. of this
is a stone pillar, six feet high, which bears the name of the Headless
Cross, but whether it ever was a cross is doubtful. It has also been
called the Maximajor Stone. Passing onward the rambler will descend
the hill to Clifford Bridge, placed in the midst of delightful scenery at
the lower, or eastern, end of the Gorge of Fingle.
[The rambler who may have reached Clifford Bridge from Duns-
ford, or from Fingle Bridge, on his way to Moreton, will follow the
main road up the hill S. to Mardon Down, along the verge of which he
will be led. The common is on the L. At the cross road where he
leaves it he will keep straight on, and descend to the town, i m. distant.]
At the southern end of Clifford Bridge a very steep road branches
from the one leading to Mardon Down, towards the W. Climbing this
long ascent the rambler will, in about i m., reach a point where it
forks, and here he takes the R. branch to the down on which is situated
Wooston Castle, one of the ancient hill camps guarding the eastern
frontier of the moorland region. [Others will presently be noticed,
besides which there are also camps near Lustleigh and Ashburton
( Vide those Districts)]. Wooston is an earthwork approaching an oval
form, and is situated on a steep declivity commanding the romantic
Teign Gorge. Below it are cliffs, partly hidden by trees, and above it
the bare down. This rises many hundred feet, and as it would here be
exposed to the assaults of an enemy, supposing the latter to have
forced their way to the higher ground, it was strongly fortified on this
side. Here the rampart is thirty feet in height, and is protected by
a deep ditch ; the other parts of it are unprovided with this additional
means of security, the nature of the ground rendering such unnecessary.
Some distance above this is a second ditch, and also a rampart and other
outworks. The chief purpose of this fort seems to have been to guard
the pass, through which an enemy might be expected to approach.
The high ground behind the entrenchments would be inaccessible to
him unless he could succeed in fighting his way to it.
The road by which we have approached the down from Clifford
Bridge runs on by Cranbrook Castle, and through Uppacott to Easton
and Chagford (S. Ex. 66), and this must be followed if the last-named
place be our destination. If, however, we are returning to Moreton
we leave this road immediately above the fort and strike into another
running up the hill due S. This will take us past Wooston Farm to
Mardon Down. Some distance to the R. is Willingstone Rock, 1,078
feet, to which a road leads soon after the farm is passed. From Mardon
we retrace our steps over the road by which we left the town.
[Wooston Castle is 2-i- m. from Moreton. On reaching Mardon
Down from the town, ante, the L. branch of the road must be followed.
This will lead the visitor past Wooston Farm, R., and straight down
to the fort. From Chagford the way lies past Cranbrook Down.
S. Ex. 66.1
S. Ex. 65. — The Teign Gorge below Fingle Bridge. (From Moreton).
10 m. To Clifford Bridge as in the preceding excursion. Here an
angler's path will be seen running W. through the wood on the S.
bank of the Teign, and this may be followed to Fingle Bridge, about
42 BANKS OF TEIGN. CRANBROOK CASTLE.
3 m. up stream. The rambler will pass below \Vooston Castle, and will
obtain some good views of the gorge, particularly when the fine hill of
Prestonbury comes in sight. This hill, and Fingle Bridge, together
with the return route to Moreton, are described in the next excursion.
S. Ex. 66. — Cranbrooh Castle, Fingle Bridge, and Prestonbury.
M., 84 m. ; C., io£ m. The first point will be Uppacott Down, and
this is reached from Moreton by leaving the town by the Chagford
road, and shortly turning R., and then almost immediately taking the
L- branch at the forks. This will bring the rambler to Howton, where
is an open space with a seat, and two roads branching R. (The one
bearing L. leads to Lynscott and Uppacott. At Lynscott is an old
cross, discovered a few years ago acting as a gate-post, but now placed
under a tree on a turfy space in the lane. [Crosses, Chap. XIV.] It
probably once marked a pack-horse track running from Lynscott over
the side of Butterdon Hill, 1,154 feet, to Fingle Bridge). At Howton
the second road R. is followed for ij m., where the road coming L.
from Uppacott will be reached, the point being marked by a guide-post,
and here the visitor turns R. (Care must be taken not to branch R.
into the lane •£ m. from Howton). ^ m. from the guide-post is another,
where a turning L. leads directly to that part of Uppacott Down
usually known as Cranbrook Down, on the summit of which is the fine
hill fort called Cranbrook Castle.
This ancient encampment is reached from Chagford by following
the Moreton road to Easton, i£ m., and then keeping straight on past
the entrance to Whiddon Park, L., up the steep Uppacott Hill. About
i m. from Easton is Uppacott, where a road turns R. to Lynscott,
and \ m. above this is the guide-post where the road comes R. from
Howton and Moreton. £ m. further on is another guide-post, where
a turning L. leads to Cranbrook Down.
[For Wooston Castle the visitor must keep straight on E. from
the second guide-post, leaving Butterdon Down and Willingstone
Rock R. i£ m. from the guide-post is Wooston Down, on which the
fort is situated. This is on the L. ; the road R. goes up by Wooston
Farm to Mardon Down and Moreton.]
Cranbrook Castle occupies a commanding position 70x3 feet above
the Teign, its height above sea level being over 1,100 feet (a survey
mark gives 1,104). It is an irregular encampment approaching a
circular form, and is surrounded by a rampart of stone and turf. On
the S. this rampart is over 20 feet in height on the inner side, while
the outer slope is more than 40 feet, and here it is also protected by
two ditches. On the W. there is a single ditch, but none on the N.
and E., where the ground drops considerably, particularly on the N.,
where the vallum is on the brow of the precipitous scarp that rises
from the Teign. The space enclosed is stated by Lysons in the
Devonshire volume of the Magna Britannia, 1822, to be about six or
seven acres in extent; Mr. W. T. P. Shortt, who published in 1841
an essay on some remains in Devon, describes it as being about seven
acres.
The view from Cranbrook is exceedingly fine. Cosdon uplifts his
huge form beyond the pleasant fields of Gidleigh and Throwleigh, and
stretching away from the great hill a long sweep of dusky moorland
forms the western horizon, to sink down to the farm lands where the
BANKS OF TEIGN. FINGLE BRIDGE. 43
twin rocks of Hey Tor rise sharply against the sky. Eastward the
beholder looks across the gorge to Prestonbury, and upon a wide extent
of cultivated countrx, where red earth, and green weadows and woods,
present a happy contrast to the dun hills of Dartmoor.
The road over the down near this ancient fort, formed on the line
of an old pack-horse track, descends by a series of zig-zags to Fingle
Bridge, in the deep ravine below. On the R. as the rambler descends
he will notice at a point where a path diverges, an upright slab with
an incised cross measuring 14 inches by 10 inches. [Crosses, Chap.
XIII.] At the angles of the zig-zags very fine views of the gorge are
obtained, that presented from one of these points being particularly
fine, when the rambler looks up the valley and sees the folding hills
that rise steeply from the banks of the hidden river, in places clothed
with oak coppice, and in others showing only bold, bare scarps.
Fingle Bridge is a narrow structure of three arches, furnished
with buttresses, and with recesses into which the wayfarer might turn
when meeting pack-horses carrying their burdens on crooks. Below
it, on the R bank, is an old mill, and from here the angler's path
before spoken of (S. Ex. 65) runs down to Clifford Bridge. Above
the L. bank towers the great hill of Prestonbury, covered with heather,
and crowned with its huge camp. The visitor will here find himself
in the midst of some of the most charming and romantic scenery in
Devon. The Gorge of Fingle is the finest thing of its kind in the
Westcountry. [Gems, Chap. VII.]
Crossing the bridge the rambler will follow the road up through
the defile, with Drewston Wood L. and Prestonbury R., to the top of
the hill, where another road comes R. from Clifford Bridge and runs
L. to Drewsteignton village. Here he will turn R. and enter upon a
path leading to the summit of the camp-crowned height, which, though
many hundred feet above the river, is yet of much less elevation than
Cranbrook. That he will be more struck with the magnificent view
of the gorge which he obtains from this point of vantage than with the
fort itself is certain, but when, after having looked upon the folding
hills, and into the depths of the narrow valley, he turns his attention
to the ruins he will not fail to notice how skilfully this elevated spot
was defended. The early builders of this fort took full advantage of
what Natuie had done for them, but there yet remained much for
their hands to do. They accomplished it, and in the days when the
only long distance weapons were the bow and the sling, the place must
have been impregnable. The fort, which is of an oblong shape, is said,
with its outworks, to cover an area of about twenty-five acres. Descend-
ing once more to the bridge, we shall climb the zig-zags through the wood
to Cranbrook Down, though the visitor whose destination is Moreton
may perhaps choose the way by Fingle Mill, following the angler's
path on the R. bank of the Teign down to Clifford Bridge, where he
will turn R. into the road leading over Mardon Down to the town
(S. Ex. 64). This way will increase the distance by 3 miles.
From Cranbrook Down the road E. of the camp must be followed
to the guide-post, where the rambler will turn R. £ m. on is another
guide-post, and here, if bound for Moreton, he will branch L., or S.E.,
to Howton, i£ m. from this point, and thence keep straight on till he
joins the road from Chagford, where he turns L. to the town, £ m.
distant. For Chagford the visitor instead of turning I,, at the second
44 BANKS OF TEIGN. THE FINGLE GORGE.
guide-post, will descend the hill to Easton. passing TTppacott and the
entrance to Whiddon Park on the way. Thence straight on, S.W., i£ m.
(The road to Drewsteignton, it has already been stated, turns L.,
or W, at the top of the defile between Prestonbury and Drewston
Wood, N. of Fingle Bridge, the distance to the village from this point
being not much over £ m. To reach Sandy Park Bridge from Fingle
the rambler may either find his way by the L. bank of the Teign up-
ward to the logan under Hunts Tor (S. Ex. 67), and then climb up to
the path near Combe ; or he may strike into this same path at Fingle
and follow it along the side of Piddledown Common).
S. Ex. 67. — Fingle Bridge by way of Piddledown Common. (From
Chagford). 7^ m. Leaving the town by the Moreton road the visitor
will take the L. branch at the fork, J m. from the Moor Park Hotel,
and descend the hill to Rushford Bridge, where the Teign is crossed.
Just beyond is Rushford Mill, one approach to which is by a ford and
stepping-stones, and here a path i« carried down the L,. bank of the
river. This is followed for about £ m. to the Moreton and Okehampton
road at Dogamarsh Bridge, or as it is often called, Sandy Park Bridge,
from its proximity to the hamlet of that name (L.) The road is crossed,
and the path still followed. This now gradually leaves the river,
which a little further down enters Fingle Gorge. Passing Combe Vale,
through which a streamlet runs, the rambler will reach Hunts Tor,
where the scene is particularly wild. The great mass looks down upon
the Teign, which here rushes impetuously over its boulder-strewn bed,
to hide itself in the depths of the narrow ravine, where the folding
hills rise, bare in places and in others show a covering of heather or
coppice. Opposite to the tor is Whiddon Wood, as this part of the
park is called, where sturdy oaks grow on the steep amid a wilderness
of rocks. From this point the path runs onward over the side of Piddle-
down Common to Fingle Bridge, about ii m. down, Sharp Tor being
passed on the way. Should the rambler prefer to make the river his
companion, by finding a passage through the bottom of the gorge,
he may either follow it from Dogamarsh Bridge, or descend to it on
reaching the little vale of Combe. By doing this he will pass close to
the logan, a great rock in its bed under Hunts Tor, which, having been
noticed by Polwhele, who was imbued with Druidic ideas, was for
long looked upon as an object once connected with mysterious rites.
In 1 797 he was able to move it easily ; it still oscillates, but has lost
much of its former " logging " power. This route by the river, which
is not of the easiest description, will lead the rambler under Sharp Tor.
The scenery all the way down is exceedingly fine, and from no point
is Prestonbury seen to such advantage as from the bottom of this
romantic gorge. The return from Fingle Bridge is given in S. Ex. 66.
(The little stream falling into the Teign above Dogamarsh Bridge is
known as White Water ; very near to it is Dogamarsh Wood).
S. Ex. 68. — Drewsteignton. (From Chagford). 8 m. (If the
return is by way of the dolmen the distance will be about i m. more).
The first point is Dogamarsh Bridge, as in S. Ex. 67. This bridge,
which was built about 1816, replaces one which an old drawing shows
to have consisted of three arches, as stated by Polwhele. It was
situated a little further up the stream than the present structure.
BANKS OF TEIGN. DREWSTEIGNTON. 45
Here the rambler may either make his way by the Combe path
(S. Ex. 67), or he may turn L,. to Sandy Park and follow the road.
In the former case he will, on reaching Combe Vale, turn up the path
L. by Combe Farm, in one of the fields of which is a heap of rocks
called the Pixies' Parlour, where a labourer, so a story says, aided by
the darkness, once caught, as he thought, one of that elfin race ; but
his prize turned out to be a tame rabbit belonging to his master's
little son. Above Combe Farm the rambler passes Hundred Acre
Plantation, R., and soon reaches the road, where he will turn R. to
Drewsteignton, i£ m. distant. If he chooses the road he will branch
R. at the inn at Sandy Park, and in about i m. will arrive at the point
where the path comes up R. from Combe.
The village of Drewsteignton is placed on high ground, and some
fine views are obtained from several points near it, especially E. of the
church. This, which has a Perpendicular tower and nave with a
modern chancel, stands at the end of the village street. In a charm-
ing little book by Mr. E. Tozer, who wrote under the pen-name of
"Tickler," published in 1869, the ringers' rules which hang in the
belfry are given.
The name of the parish is in part derived from its former posses-
sors, though when antiquaries believed that such things as tolmens,
logans, and rock basins formed part of the paraphernalia of Druidism
they gave the name quite another meaning. They gravely told us
that it meant the Druids' town on the Teign.* But at a very early
period it belonged to Drogo, or Dru, the second son of Walter de Ponz,
and the grandson of Richard, Duke of Normandy. Walter de Ponz,
who was Earl of Arques and Thoulouse, had three sons, of whom Dru
was the second, and from him the family of Drew of Devonshire are
descended. At the time of the Domesday Survey he had seventy-
three manors in the county. The name is variously spelt in parish
records, Dru, Drue, Drewe, and Drew. Drewsteignton is simply
Drew's Teign town, and its connection with the Druids a dream of the
dry-as-dusts of other days. In Domesday the manor appears as
Teintona, and thus, as Sir William Pole observes, the place " both
gave and tooke name of the possessor thereof. "f
To return direct to Chagford the visitor will follow the western
road, and branch L. at the fork, to Sandy Park. Here he will not cross
the bridge, but strike into the river side path, which will bring him to
Rushford Mill and the bridge of that name. Crossing this he will pass
up the hill to the town.
[The Spinsters' Rock. This dolmen is about 2% m. from Chagford.
From Drewsteignton the western road is followed as above, but at
the forks the R. branch must be taken. For the next i \ m. turn neither
R. nor L. Then Stone Cross is reached just beyond Stone Farm,
which lies L. The road goes on to Whiddon Down, i^ m., but the
* Stanton Drew, a few miles south of Bristol, where are some
striking stone circles, has also been claimed as a Druids' town — a
Druids' stone town — and probably with as much reason as Drew-
steignton has been so regarded.
| Collections towards a Description of the County of Devon. By
Sir William Pole, of Colcombe and Shute, 1791. Sir William died in
1635
46 BANKS OF TEIGN. SPINSTERS' ROCK.
visitor will strike into the lane L. About £ m. on, and near the entrance
to Shilston Farm, the dolmen will be seen in a field L. (S. Ex. 69).]
S. Ex. 69. — The Spinsters' Rock and Bradford Pool. (From Chag-
ford). 6 m. The way lies first to Chagford Bridge and up Walland
Hill, but instead of turning L,. to Murchington the visitor will keep
straight on to Sands Gate, where he reaches the road coming up
R. from Sandy Park and running on to Whiddon Down and Oke-
hampton. There are several branch lanes between Walland Hill and
this point, but if it be remembered that the road runs nearly N. there
will be no danger of turning into these. Cross the road at Sands Gate
and enter the lane. The dolmen, which stands on Shilston Farm,
will be seen R. less than £ m. on.
With the exception of that within the gate at Dunnabridge Pound,
(Ex. 42), which some will perhaps be disinclined to regard as a dolmen,
this Drewsteignton example is the only one in the Dartmoor country,
or, indeed, in Devon, that is not found in a ruined condition. And
even this is a restoration. In January, 1862, it fell, and was re-erected
during the same year, the work being completed in the November
following. The expense of this was borne by the late Mrs. Bragg, of
Furlong, the owner of Shilston, and it was superintended by the rector,
the Rev. WTilliam Ponsford. John Ball, a carpenter, and William
Stone, a builder, both of Chagford, carried out the work, an account
of which is given in a paper contributed by Mr. G. W. Ormerod
to the Journal of the Royal Archceological Institute, in 1872. It is
rather humiliating to reflect that what could only be accomplished by
the men of the nineteenth century with an expenditure of much labour
and time, was in the "dim old days" effected by three women one
morning before breakfast. According to the legend this monument
was raised by three spinsters, not necessarily unmarried women, but
spinners of yarn — a calling which the original narrator of the story also
appears to have followed. Being on their way homeward from the
yarn-jobber, and seeing the great stones lying on the ground, they
diverted themselves with building the dolmen. The legend is first
related by William Chappie, in 1779, who says that the monument was
then known as the Spinsters' Rock.* But he derived the name from
some Celtic words having much the same sound, and which he says
mean an open observatory, or star-gazing place. Whether this throws
any light upon the matter — other than moonshine — I am not prepared
to say, but it is only right to mention that this belief that our ancient
stone monuments had some astronomical signification, has lately again
engaged the attention of antiquaries. Polwhele refers to another
story connected with the dolmen, -J- and probably an older one of which
the foregoing is a variant. He quotes a writer as stating that the
monument was said to have been erected by three young men who
came down with their father from the hills of Dartmoor, whence they
brought the stones, and this it was thought had reference to the old
man and his sons who descended from the mountain on which the ark
had rested.
* Description and Exegesis of the Drewsteignton Cromlech. Exeter,
1779. The author died before the work was completed.
f History of Devonshire. Vol. II. 1793 1806. (3 vols.)
BANKS OF TEIGN. RUSHFORD WOOD. 47
The impost, or capstone, of the dolmen is 15 feet in length, and
its under surface is about six feet from the ground. Its weight is
computed to be rather over 16 tons.
According to several accounts there were formerly some stone
rows and circles near the dolmen. These were noticed in 1789 by the
Rev. John Swete, of Oxton House, who in that year visited the spot
while on a tour into North Devon, and four years afterwards were
described by Polwhele. They were also mapped by the Rev. W. Grey,
of Exeter, in 1838. Some twenty years later search was made for
these remains by Mr. G. W. Ormerod, but the stones had then dis-
appeared.
On the further side of the lane that runs N. of the dolmen is Brad-
ford Pool, said to be about three acres in extent. It is of a rectangular
shape, and about 180 yards long by 40 yards wide, and is really an old
mining excavation. The trees by which it is surrounded do much to
conceal its artificial character, and render it a truly romantic spot.
When visited by Mr. Swete the pool had been drained, but the accumu-
lation of water in it seems to have taken place soon after that time,
and was occasioned by the stopping of an adit which runs under Shils-
ton Farm. The existence of this adit probably gave rise to the belief
once prevalent in the locality that a subterranean passage ran from
the pool to the Teign under Hunts Tor. Similarly the story of a
secret passage formerly said to lead from Gidleigh Castle to the Teign
at Gidleigh Park Bridge, seems to have been suggested by some old
mining excavations near the last-named spot.
The return from the dolmen will be by way of the lane running
southward to Sands Gate, where the road coming R. from Whiddon
down and going L. to Sandy Park is crossed. Keep straight on, the
course being nearly S., to Walland Hill, about i£ m., at the bottom
of which is Chagford Bridge.
S. Ex. 70. — Rushford Wood. (From Chagford). i£ m. The
way lies over Rushford Bridge as in S. Ex. 67, but instead of striking
into the river path at the mill, the road must be followed to Rushford
Barton, once the seat of the Hoares, a family which settled here in the
reign of Richard II.* The visitor now turns L. to the wood, through
which he may pass up to Rushford Tower. No antiquarian interest
attaches to this ; in fact, the building is quite modern, but a fine view
is obtained from it, and it also forms an interesting feature in the
picture seen from Chagford. North of it a strip of turf was formerly
known as the Bowling Green, and a basin 'in one of the rocks with
which this was dotted, as the Punch Bowl. (Near Mount Flaggon, on
the road to Torhill and Goosaford, is the Rushford Manor Pound,
modern).
On returning to Rushford Mill the visitor, instead of crossing the
bridge, may turn R. into a path by which he will be led along the left,
or north, bank of the Teign to Chagford Bridge, and so make his way
to the town.
* This interesting old house was unfortunately destroyed by fire
in September, 1913. but has since been rebuilt.
48 CHAGFORD AND MORETON DISTRICT.
Routes from Chagford and Moreton.
(The road between these two places has already been described. The
Route distances do not include the return. The rambler is supposed
to be provided with a compass).
R. 31. — To Bovey Tracey, S.E. from Moreton. Hayne, Wray
Barton, Wray Cleave, Kelly, Blade, King's Cross, Woolley, Atway.
Prom C., n m. ; M., 6\ m. Reverse, R. 46.
This is a road route, and few directions are needed. From More-
ton the way lies by the Railway Station, and down the valley of the
Wray, with Wray Cleave L., for 3^ m., where a road runs R. to Lust-
leigh. The route is then by Kelly and Slade, at each of which points
there are guide-posts. At King's Cross, where is a milestone (i m.
from Bovey), the visitor must bear I,, to Woolley. At that spot he
will also bear I,., but take the next turning R.
R. 32.— To Ashburton, S.S.E. from Chagford ; S. from Moreton.
Beetor Cross, Barramoor Bridge, Heytree Cross. (From Moreton :
North Bovey, Langstone, Hayne Down). Swine Down Gate, Hems-
worthy Gate, Cold East Cross, Welstor Cross. From C., I2j m. ; from
M., ii£ m. Reverse, R. 53.
[Objects : S. Ex. 61, Ex. 23 to 26.]
Although this is a road route the greater part of it lies over the
moor. The visitor will pass up the hill S., having Nattadon I/, and
Meldon R., and make his way to Beetor Cross, 2^ m. q.v. Here the
road runs L. to Moreton, and R. to Princetown, but he will strike into
the one running L. below the cross, i.e., S.E., and follow it for a few
score yards when he will turn R., and in about 2\ m. will reach Heytree
Cross (Ex. 24). (This 2\ m. of road pursues a S.S.E. direction, and the
turnings, all of which the rambler will avoid, are as follow: First L.
to Hele ; then cross Barramoor Bridge ; Second L. to Gratnar ; Third,
a cross road — L. to North Bovey and R. to Shapley and Westcombe
Down ; Fourth L. to Langdon Farm and North Bovey ; Fifth, I/, to
Easdon Farm and Manatbn ; and Sixth, R. to Vogwell, from which
turning Heytree Cross is \ m. distant). A little way beyond this
cross road is the farm of Fordgate, and when this is passed the pedes-
trian will enter upon Cripdon Down, along the western edge of which
the road runs for about \ m. and then skirts Swine Down, leaving it at
Swine Down Gate. (R. 25 and Ex. 24). On passing through the gate
the rambler will turn southward, having Hound Tor (Ex. 24) on his L.
About ij m. on a green track across the down I,, cuts off an angle of
the road, and in this another, marked by a guide-post, branches west-
ward to Widecombe. Soon after the road is regained Hemsworthy
Gate is reached, through which lies the way to Ilsington and Bovey
Tracey (Ex. 25, S. Ex. 82, 90). Leaving this on the L. the rambler will
follow the road southward under Rippon Tor, and passing the ruins of
Newhouse, on the verge of Blackslade Down R. (Ex. 26}, will reach
ROUTE 33. CHAGFORD AND MORETON TO BRENT. 49
Cold East Cross, i £ m. Here a road comes up L. from Halshanger, and
another runs R. to Widecombe (Ex. 26, R. 5), with a branch to
Cockingford (R. 5, 42) and the forest. The rambler will keep to the
road he has been following, its course here being about S.W., and in
about i£ m. will reach Welstor Cross, where he will turn R. into the
road leading from Buckland to Ashburton, and then almost immediately
turn L. and follow it to his destination. (Vfde Ashburton District).
From Moreton the road lies through North Bovey (S. Ex. 61),
and joins the one just described at Swine Down Gate. Langstone is
the first point from North Bovey, about i m. S.S.E., Aller and Higher
and Lower I/uckdon being passed on the way, and here the visitor will
turn R. to Langstone Cross, \ m. At both points there is a guide-post.
He will here turn L., and on reaching the forks a little way down, will
strike into the R. branch, which will shortly bring him to Hayne Down.
Across this his road runs direct to Swine Down Gate, i \ m. S., Bower-
man's Nose being passed on the way (Ex. 23).
R. 33. — To Brent and Ivybridge. Brent, S. ; Ivybridge, S. by
W. ; with branch to Cornwood, S.S.W. To BRENT : Jurston Gate,
Challacombe, Jordan, Ponsworthy, Pound's Gate, Holne, Cross Furzes,
Gigley Bridge. From C., 19 m. ; from M., by Moor Gate, 20 m. ; a
nearer way from M. is through Widecombe (See R. 64). To IVYBRIDGE :
Jurston Gate, Warren House Inn, Post Bridge, Dunnabridge Pound,
Sherburton Bridge, Hexworthy, Aune Head, Red Lake, by the Erme to
Harford. From C., 23% m. ; from M., by Moor Gate, 25 m. To
CORNWOOD : from Red Lake over Stall Moor, from C., 22 m. ; from
M., by Moor Gate, 23^ m. Reverse, R. 64.
[Objects : Exs. 22, 27, 28, Holne Moor Section, and S. Exs. from
Brent. If to Ivybridge, Exs. 22, 21, 45, 44, 42, 43, 30, 32 ; and if to
Cornwood add Ex. 33.]
To BRENT. The road to Jurston Gate as already described must
first be followed, where the pedestrian will cross the valley, as directed
in S. Ex. 59, to the point where the road to Challacombe, Grendon,
and Cator leaves the Moreton and Princetown highway. Here the
visitor from Moreton will jom. This Challacombe road must then
be followed, the rambler having Shapley Common on his L-, and the
upper waters of a branch of the Bovey on his R. About i^ m. on the
road crosses Grim's Lake at Firth Bridge, Grim's Pound (Ex. 22)
lying on the slope L., and Headland Warren House in the valley R.
At Challacombe, about i m. further down, the road forks. The
rambler must take the L. branch, which will bring him to Lower
Blackaton, i m. (T. 76). Still keeping southward his course for yet
another mile will be on the line of R. 26, and will bring him to Dunstone
Down, when he will turn R. (The first turning R. leads to Cator ; the
second R. is a track running down a stroll to Rowden Down ; these he
must pass). At the point where he will leave the road a track comes
down from the N.E. Route 26 runs on over Bittleford Down, but we
must now desert it and strike S. by W. down a narrow lane between
some enclosures to Jordan Mill, just before reaching which our way is
crossed by another lane. Passing the mill the visitor will proceed to
the Widecombe and Ponsworthy road, £ m. distant, where he will turn
R. down the hill, and in another \ m. will reach the last-named village
(Ex. 27). Passing through this little place we ascend the hill and keep
L. towards Leusdon Church, but bearing R. just before reaching it.
•8
So ROUTE 33. CHAGFORD AND MORETON TO IVYBRIDGE.
The way lies by Spitchwick Higher Lodge to the hamlet of Pound's
Gate, whence the road runs by the Tavistock Inn down the hill, with
I^eign Tor L. to New Bridge (R. 6 A). Immediately after crossing the
bridge a path will be seen R. running through the wood close to the
Dart. This will lead the rambler up to some fields, and near to Holne
Cot, on passing which he will emerge upon a lane. A few yards L. is
a branch into which he will turn, and very speedily reach Holne
village. (Vide S. Ex. 96). Passing through this to Play Cross the
pedestrian turns L., and a few score yards on, when at the top of
Langaford Hill, takes the road R. This will lead him to Holy Brook
Bridge and Scorriton, just beyond which he will cross Combe Bridge
and ascend the long steep lane to Cross Furzes, taking care not to
branch L. when nearing the top. At the cross, where is an old guide-
stone, a lane comes from Lid Gate, on the moor edge, R., and two run L.,
one to Buckfast and the other to Buckfastleigh, the latter going over
Wallaford Dowr. The rambler will descend the side of the furze-
covered space, to a ford on the Dean Burn, and will ascend the track
leading up towards the ruined Lambs Down Farm (S. Ex. 101). Before
reaching it a footpath will be seen branching L. and running down to
a small tributary rivulet, where is a hunting gate, and this must be
followed. The path leads to a green track that comes from the moor
R., which will be struck by keeping near the wall, R. This track, the
direction of which is S.E., the pedestrian will follow over Skerraton
Down to a lane in the corner, and entering this will proceed for £ m. to a
turning R., which will bring him immediately to Gigley Bridge. From
this point the way to Brent is described in S. Ex. 103.
To IVYBRIDGE. As in the route to Brent the visitor will first
make his way to Jurston Gate, but will not then desert the highway.
His road, in fact, will be the same as that described in R. 35 as far
as Post Bridge. (This also applies to Moreton visitors). Then, on
crossing the East Dart, he will enter the gate L. and follow the green
track by Bellaford Tor to Dunnabridge Pound, as described in T. 80 and
Ex. 44. On emerging from the newtakes on the Two Bridges and Dart-
meet road, he will turn L. for a few score yards, and passing Brown-
berry, will enter a gate R. and descend to the West Dart, which is
spanned by a clam just below where it makes a sharp bend. On
crossing this the rambler will find himself on land belonging to Sher-
burton Farm ; a path leads along the hillside to the house. Below,
on the L., is the confluence of the Dart and the Swincombe, marked
by the plantation known as Sherburton Firs. Having reached the
farmhouse the rambler will descend the road to Sherburton Bridge,
whence he will pass upward to Gobbet Plain, below which is the
delightfully situated forest settlement of Hexworthy.
[Hexivorthy to Ivybridge. The part of this route that follows forms
the reverse of the route from Ivybridge to Hexworthy. Vide R. 64,
and Brent and Ivybridge, and Hexworthy Districts.]
The first part of the journey from Hexworthy is described in T. 54.
This will bring the rambler to Aune Head, from which point he will
follow the Avon down for about \\ m. to Heng Lake Gully, keeping
on the R. bank. (For a description of the mire at Aune Head and the
ROUTE 33. CHAGFORD AND MORETON TO CORNWOOD. 51
upper part of the stream see Ex. 43). The gully, which is on the
R. bank of the Avon, will be reached just before the river makes a
rather rapid descent. It is covered with granite, and a little tributary
runs through it. The visitor will make his way nearly to its head,
where on the L. he will find a narrow strip of hard ground leading
across Red Lake Mire. By means of this he will be able to reach
Green Hill (Ex. 30) without trouble, when he will turn southward, with
the mire close to him on the L. This will bring him to Red Lake,
near the ford (T. i), and he may now either follow the brook to the
Erme, and crossing that stream pass downward to Green Bottom,
|- m. below the confluence, and so make his way to Harford Bridge,
as described in R. 7 ; or he may cross Red Lake, and strike S. over
Brown Heath to Stony Bottom, and thence proceed to Harford village
There is little difference in the length of these routes. In the latter
case the visitor, after crossing Stony Bottom (Ex. 32) (which is about
I m. from the ford over the brook, and runs E. and W., and which
should be reached at a point rather over £ m. E. of the Erme), should
endeavour to strike the track running out from Harford to Erme
Pound (T. 63). This he may do if he gradually approaches the line
of bondstones that he will notice on his L., which mark the boundary
between Harford and Ugborough Moors, as the two intersect each
other about £ m. southward of the bottom. At all events the stones
will prove a sufficient guide, and by following up the row the rambler
will be led to the dip between Three Barrows, L., and Sharp Tor, R.,
through which the track runs. Less than \ m. southward of Sharp
Tor it forks, and here the R. branch must be followed. Harford
Church, if m. distant, may now be seen S.W., and to this the track
will lead direct. (See note at end of R. 38).
[Hexworthy to Brent, by way of Aune Head. From Heng Lake,
ante, the rambler will follow the Avon downward, keeping on the L.
bank, until he passes Small Brook, over 4 m., where a bondstone
will be seen close to the confluence. He will soon after cross the river,
and follow it to Zeal Gate, at Shipley. (See note at end of R. 38). Or
he may leave the river below him on the L. after passing Heng Lake
Gully, and make his way along the brow of the hill southward to Western
Whitaburrow, where he will strike the old tram-road (T. 60, Ex. 30),
which he may follow to Shipley as in R. 7.]
To CORKWOOD. If his destination be Cornwood the pedestrian
will follow the Ivybridge route as far as Red Lake Ford. He must
then trace the stream down to the Erme, which he should cross either
near the confluence, or at the ford below Erme Pound, about £ m.
lower down. From here a track runs over Stall Moor (T. 66), and
this will lead him to Watercombe Waste Gate, 3^ m. distant. Should
the rambler not be able to strike this track at first his best plan will
be to follow the Erme downward, keeping high above the right bank
after crossing Green Bottom, £ m. below the fording place, as by so
doing he will not fail to notice the long stone row leading to the circle
described in Ex. 33. This row here runs N. and S., and is nearly
parallel to the track, which is only about 200 yards W. of it. As
progress is made the path becomes plainer, but the rambler cannot go
wrong if he keeps well to the R. or W. of Stalldon Barrow, the high
52 ROUTE 34. CHAGFORD AND MORETON TO PLYMPTON.
hill he sees rising before him. When the track draws near Harrow-
thorn Plantation and Dendles Wood it is crossed by another coming
R. from the direction of Yealm Head. Here the pedestrian will keep
L., and about i m. further on will reach the moor gate at Watercombe,
from which a road leads to Corn wood, not quite 2 m. distant (Ex. 34).
R. 34. — To Plympton and Shaugh, S.W. by S. ; with branch to
Cornwood, S.S.W. Jurston Gate, Warren House Inn, Post Bridge,
Cherry Brook, Prince Hall Bridge, Peat Cot, Siward's Cross, Plym
Steps, Hen Tor, Great Trowlesworthy Tor, Blackabrook Head, Shaugh
Moor, Brag Lane End, Niel Gate. To Plympton, 25!- m. ; to Shaugh,
21 m. ; to Cornwood, 2i£ m. From Moreton, i-j- m. more. Reverse,
R. 71.
[Objects : Exs. 22, 45, 44, 46, 4, 3, 37, 36. If to Cornwood add
34, 35-1
By Jurston Gate, following the Princetown route, R. 35, to the
entrance to the old Powder Mills, f m. south-westward of the bridge
over the Cherry Brook. Just beyond this the rambler will cross
Muddy Lakes Newtake, L-, as in R. 27, and follow the directions given
there for reaching Tor Royal Newtake by way of Moorlands and Prince
Hall. But when he enters that newtake he will steer S.W. by W.
across it for i£ m., leaving Royal Hill, 1,333 feet, the highest part of
it, on the L. (The rambler must be careful not to bear too much to
the L. when nearing the end of this i £ m., or he will get among the turf
ties, which will hinder his progress). This will bring him to the wall
of some enclosures belonging to Tor Royal (Exs. 3, 4), which runs S.
and then turns abruptly W. He will follow this to the Devonport
Leat, along the bank of which is a path, which will bring him to Peat
Cot, a short distance S. From this little settlement the rambler will
proceed in a south-westerly direction for rather less than £ m.., when
he will turn S., and in another £ m. will reach Siward's Cross (T. i,
Ex. 2, Extension). From this point the way lies over Eylesbarrow
and Higher Hart Tor to the Plym, and thence onward to Shaver-
combe and Hen Tor, and is described in R. 7. The direction is
S. by W.
[The rambler bound for Cornwood will branch off at Hen Tor,
and follow the directions given in R. 7, his way lying over Shell Top
and Pen Beacon.]
If either Plympton or Shaugh be the point to be reached the
rambler will not find it necessary to make direct for Hen Tor on leaving
Shavercombe Brook ; it will be better for him to pass about £ m. below
it, i.e., to the W. of it, and near the ruined buildings known as Hen Tor
House (Ex. 37). From this point he will strike S.W. by W., and
crossing Hen Tor Brook will pass over Willing's Hill to Great Trowles-
worthy Tor, i m., close to which is the source of Spanish Lake. Little
Trowlesworthy Tor will be seen below it, and further down, Trowles-
worthy Warren House (Ex. 37). The course is now about S.W. by
W., to the head of Blackabrook, \ m. distant, the Lee Moor Clay
Works Leat being crossed on the way. (There are some foot bridges
over it here). Less than another \ m., the course being about the same,
will bring the rambler to the road from Dousland (R.) to Cornwood (L.)>
ROUTE 35. CHAGFORD AND MORETON TO PRINCETOWN. 53
(R. 13). This he will cross, and strike W. by S. over Shaugh Moor to
Brag Lane End, about i m. (Ex. 36). The visitor to Shaugh will turn
into this as directed in R. 8. For Plympton he will turn L. and follow
the road to his destination, leaving the moor at Niel Gate, as described
in the same route.
R. 35. — To Princetown, S.W. BY ROAD. Meldon, Jurston
Gate, Bush Down, Bennet's Cross, Warren House Inn, Stats Brook,
Meripit Hill, Post Bridge, Gawler Bottom, Bellaford Tor, Powder Mills,
Crockern Tor, Two Bridges. (The road from Moreton runs by Bughead
Cross, Worm Hill, Beetor Cross, Moor Gate, f- m. W. of which it joins
the one from Chagford). From C., 12 m. ; from M., 134- m. Reverse,
R. 4.
[Objects : Exs. 22, 45, 44, 46, 5.]
The portion of this route from Chagford and Moreton to the
Warren House Inn is described in S. Ex. 58.
Shortly after leaving the Warren House Inn we cross Stats Brook,
whence the road is carried over Meripit Hill to the hamlet of Post
Bridge. Crossing the East Dart close to the well-known clapper, it
ascends the hill, with Lakehead on the I/., and Archerton R. Soon
Bellaford Tor is seen rising L., on the R. being Gawler Bottom. We
cross the Cherry Brook, and passing the entrance to the Powder Mills
f- m. further on soon reach Two Bridges. Branch ~L,. to Princetown,
i£ m.
R. 36.— To Tavistock, W.S.W. (A) BY ROAD. Jurston Gate,
Warren House Inn, Post Bridge, Two Bridges, Rundle Stone, Merivale.
From C., i8£ m. ; from M., 20 m. Reverse, R. 10 A. (B) FROM
CHAGFORD BY WAY OF THE MOOR. Waye Barton, M ether al, Assacombe,
White Ridge, East Dart, Broad Down, Row Tor, Devil's Tor, Maiden
Hill, White Barrow, Peter Tavy, 19 m. From Moreton via Chagford,
as above, 23* m. Reverse, R. 10 B.
[Objects": (A) Exs. 22, 21, 45, 46, 44, 5, 6, i, 7, 8. (B) 21, 46,
5. 8.]
(A) By road to Two Bridges as in R. 35. Thence the road branch-
ing R. is followed to Rundle Stone, 2 m., from which point the road
to Tavistock is shown in R. i.
(B) The first part of this route is described in the notice of the
road from Chagford to Metheral, and will take the rambler to the moor
by way of Waye Barton and Tawton Gate. On leaving the corner of
the enclosures just beyond Metheral the rambler must steer S.W. by
W., with Lowton Rocks on his R., and in \ m. will cross Lowton Brook.
Assacombe Brook is about \ m. further on. Crossing this, and shortly
afterwards the Vitifer Mine Leat, the rambler will pass up the western
side of the combe, with a wall on his L. running S.W. by W., and will
soon find himself on White Ridge (Ex. 45). He will now steer W. by
S., with the crest of the ridge L. and the leat R. for a little over i m.,
when the leat, here bending southward, will be directly in his path.
He will cross it and steer W.S.W. for i m. to the East Dart, which it
is his object to strike at the head of the pass above Sandy Hole. Care
must be taken not to bear too much to the R. in passing from the
leat to the river. Above the pass (Ex. 45) the Dart can usually be
crossed without difficulty.
54 ROUTE 37. CHAGFORD AND MORETON TO LYDFORD.
[If the visitor cares to try to cross the Dart at Sandy Hole he will
steer S.W. from the leat, but the safer plan is to aim for the head of
the pass. A more direct course than either of these, if the river can
be crossed, is to strike S.W. from the point where the wall of the Assa-
combe enclosures is left, and White Ridge entered upon, i m. on is
Lade Hill bottom (Ex. 45), through which a small tributary runs down
to the Dart. Crossing this, and still steering S.W., the pedestrian will
shortly have the river on his L. and the Vitifer Leat on his R. (Ex. 45).
Thence he will pass along the foot of Lade Hill, and crossing another
small stream, will strike the Dart about £ m. from Lade Hill Bottom,
and ± m. below the spot where the leat is taken in, and just where the
river begins to bend and run towards the north. Here it must be
crossed, and the course will then be W.S.W. over Broad Down for £ m.
to the corner of the wall of Wild Banks Newtake, vide post.]
Having reached the R. bank of the East Dart at the higher end
of the Sandy Hole pass, and just below Broad Marsh (Ex. 45), the
rambler will make his way down through the pass to the hollow nearly
-J m. below, and there he will leave the river. His way now lies over
Broad Down, the course being S.S.W., to the corner of Wild Banks
Newtake, which he will reach in about £ m. He will then follow the
wall for £ m. W.S.W. to the West Dart, and crossing that river will
still take the wall for his guide. This will lead him nearly to Row Tor,
Whence he will make his way W. by S. to Devil's Tor, abbut \ m.
distant. Close to this small pile is Bear Down Man (Ex. 5). The
course is now W.S.W. for i m. The Cowsic is first crossed, and then
the southern verge of Maiden Hill, the line running a little to the N.
of Conies Down Tor. This will bring the pedestrian to the Lich Path
(T. 1 8), which must be followed westward. Immediately after crossing
the Prison Leat this ancient way reaches the Walkham at Sandy
Ford, and is carried up the western side of the shallow valley through
which that river runs towards White Barrow, From this ford the route
to Tavistock has already been described (R. 30 B).
R. 37. — To Lydford, W. by S. Teigncombe, Batworthy Corner,
Hew Down, Newtake, Cranmere Pool, Great Kneeset, Amicombe Hill,
Rattle Brook, High Down. C., 14^ m. ; M., 19 m. Reverse, R. 17.
[Objects: Exs. 20, 19, 12, 11, and in C.R. 12, 5, and in the des-
cription of the surroundings of Cranmere in the section dealing with
that district.]
This route is composed entirely of C.R. 12, which describes the
ground between Chagford and Cranmere, and C.R. 5, which notices that
between the Pool and Lydford, and to these the rambler is referred.
R. 38. — To Okehampton, with branches to Sticklepath and Bel-
stone, N.W. by W.
(A) Road to Shilstone Tor, North end of Raybarrow Pool, Fords on
the Taw, Crovenor Steps. From C., n m. ; M., 15^ m. To Stickle-
path, from C., 7| m. ; M., 12^ m. To Belstone, from C., 9 m. ; M.,
13^ m. Reverse, R. 24 A.
(B) Road to Berry Down, White Moor Stone, Small Brook Foot,
Crovenor Steps. Distance about the same. Reverse, R. 24 B.
[Objects: Exs. 19, 18, 17, 16.]
ROUTE 38. CHAGFORD AND MORETON TO OKEHAMPTON. 55
(A) The rambler will first make his way to Gidleigh via Murching-
ton. (See C hag ford to Gidleigh). Thence he will turn up the hill by
the little manor pound to the footpath R., which is close by, and follow
W.N.W. to Thule. On reaching the lane here turn R. to Moortown,
soon after passing which the commons will be reached. The rambler
continues to follow the road which skirts them, having Buttern House
L. and Great and Little Ensworthy Farms R. Porder Bridge is then
crossed, and from this Shilstone Tor is distant £ m.
(The rambler bound for Sticklepath will continue to follow the
road, reaching Payne's Bridge in i m., whence the route is described
in S. Ex. 45).
Prom Shilstone Tor the route to Okehampton by way of the
Blackaton Brook and the north end of Raybarrow Pool takes a course
a little N. of W., the stream named being crossed at, or near, the ford
where the Gallaven track passes over it (T. 42). This point is about
£• m. from Shilstone Tor (Ex. 18, Part II). Thence the line, still N. of
W., runs across the common to the northern end of Raybarrow Pool,
and crossing the Peat Road (T. 41) goes W.N.W. over White Hill to
the fords on the Taw. This part of the route is noticed in S. Ex. 47.
(On crossing the Taw the path to Belstone through Birchy Lake,
15- m., runs R).
For Okehampton ascend the hill W. at the fords, to Winter Tor.
\ m., where the track leading down to Crovenor Steps (T. 37, Ex. 16)
will be struck. From this point the route is given in Ex. 16.
(B) This route is the same as the preceding one as far as the turning
to Gidleigh village. Here the rambler will keep straight up the hill
to Berry Down Farm, and thence to the head of the stroll (Ex. 19).
His course is now N.W. by W. across Buttern Down, by the head of
White Moor Bottom, and over the side of Kennon Hill to White Moor
Stone (Ex. 17), 2 m. from the stroll. From this point he will follow
the instructions given in the route from Throwleigh, S. Ex. 47.
Vide also Ex. '17.
[In our Excursions from Chagford mention has frequently been
made of Waye Barton, on the road to Teigncombe. Here an old granite
cross was formerly to be seen, lying at the back of the farm buildings.
[Crosses, Chap. XIII.] I have recently been informed that it is no
longer to be found there.]
On that part of R. 33 which describes the way from Heng Lake to
Ivybridge are the clay works at Red Lake, noticed in R. 7, Part I., and
Ex. 30, Part IV. The line of light railway by which the clay is con-
veyed to the side of the \Vestern Beacon now forms a direct road to
the verge of the common above Ivybridge.
In R. 33 the way is sketched from Hexworthy to Brent. When
the Avon is crossed, either some way below or just above, the canyon
near Small Brook, it should be followed downward past Brent Moor
House. Quite recently the right of way here to any but commoners,
has been questioned, notwithstanding that such right has been exercised
by the public for a very long period. If the river cannot be crossed
strike up the hill S.S.E. from Small Brook to Shipley Tor, and the
hunting-gate, as shown in Ex. 29.
*6 CRANMERE POOL.
ROUTES TO CRANMERE.
Cranmere pool is situated on the northern slope of a ridge which
rises between the springs of the Dart and the West Ockment. It has
sometimes been spoken of as the source of the last-named stream, and
in the days when it was truly a tarn its overflow of water certainly
contributed to swell the volume of the infant brook. But for more
than a hundred years Cranmere has been a pool only in name, and the
Ockment receives no water from it now. The true source of this is a
boggy hollow several yards from the northern bank.
Cranmere is first mentioned in the Itinerary of William of Wor-
cester, which was written about the close of the fifteenth century. On
Bonn's map of Devon, 1765, it is marked as " Craw-mere-pool, vulgo
Cran- mere-pool." Polwhele, in his Historical Views of Devon, 1793,
also mentions it ; and an account has been handed down to us of a
visit to it in 1802 by Mr. E. A. Bray, afterwards Vicar of Tavistock,
when he found the pool dry. The name has been supposed by some
to mean the lake of cranes, or herons. This may be so, but it is more
probable that in the first syllable we have the Celtic an, or aim, water,
and that it has no reference to the bird in question. (Cf. Crane Hill,
Ex. 30). According to tradition the pool is haunted by the spirit of
a former Mayor of Okehampton, who, the stories say, has sometimes
appeared as an ugly dwarf — usually referred to as Binjie Gear
(Benjamin Gayer) — and at others as a black colt. [Gems,
Chap. III.]
In 1854 a little cairn was built in the pool by the late Mr. James
Perrott, of Chagford, so long known as the Dartmoor guide. In it he
placed a bottle for the reception of visitors' cards. Fifty-one years
later, that is. in April, 1905, Mr. H. P. Hearder and Mr. H. Scott
Tucker, both enthusiastic moorland ramblers, placed a visitors' book
there. The number of signatures to the end of the year was 609. A
record has been kept, and these are found to be increasing. In some
years the number of names entered in the book has amounted to nearly
three times as many as in the first year. The visitor will naturally
choose the summer for his ramble to the pool ; but it is not altogether
neglected even in winter, as the records show. It is rather amusing to
remember the notions that were once formed regarding it. Up to a
comparatively short time ago it was the fashion to speak of the Pool
as though it were placed in some almost inaccessible spot, and its
discovery very doubtful. But there never was any difficulty greater
than that of not knowing the way to it with nobody to direct you.
The moormen did not know much about it, and for the reason that the
ground surrounding it being of a character not likely to prove enticing
to the animals in their charge, they had little occasion to go there.
But I knew one with whom the case was different. He had a number
of sheep in his charge that were pastured near Kneeset, and for some
time it was his custom to pass Cranmere every day on his visits to them.
5* C.R. 12. CHAGFORD AND GIDLEIGH TO CRANMERE.
C. R. 12.— From CHAGFORD, j\ m. ; GIDLEIGH, s| m.,
via Walla Brook Bridge. The way lies first to Batworthy Corner, as
in Ex. 20, and thence down by the wall to Teign Clapper. Cross the
Teign. and then cross the Walla Brook by the single stone clapper.
Gidleigh visitors will reach this point by way of the Berry Down Stroll.
From the confluence of these two streams Cranmere is 34 m. distant
W. by S., Watern Tor, which is seen rising on the ridge, being about
FROM NEAR SUMMIT OF NEWT ARE.
midway between the two. This is a little N. of a direct line to the
pool, but as it will probably be desired to include.it in the ramble we
make it the next point. Should the ground be swampy, as it sometimes
is on this level, it will be well to keep rather near to the W&lla Brook.
From Watern Tor (Ex. 19) the way lies across Walla Brook Combe to
Newtake, not quite i m. W.S.W. This is a rounded eminence, and is
sometimes known as Hangingstone Hill, as mentioned in Ex. 19, where
the view from it is described. Four miles from it, a little N. of W.,
is Great Links Tor (Ex. 13), and by taking this for a guide the visitor
Great Great Links
Kneeset. Tor.
Amicombe Hill.
FPOM NEWTAKE, J M. S. OF SUMMIT.
C.R. 13. CHAGFORD TO CRANMERE.
59
will be led to the pool, which is I m. distant. To do this he passes
over a stretch of fen, and if this should be in a bad state it will be well
to keep a little to the R. of the distant tor. By so doing Taw Head
will be struck, from which point the way is shown in C. R. 10. But
at all events he must not keep L. or he will miss Cranmere. Taw Head is
W. of Newtake, and about midway between it and the pool. East
Dart Head is | m. S.W., or \ m. vS. of Taw Head.
A more direct route from Chagford is by way of Hew Down (Ex. 19).
From Batworthy Corner a little S. of W. to the Teign ; cross the river
and climb the ridge, passing about \ m. S. of Watern Tor ; thence, still
S. of W., by Walla Brook Head to the S. side of Newtake, and straight
to the pool. The former route, is however, the more convenient one.
In returning strike E. by N. to Newtake, and then follow a N.E-
course for a short distance gradually turning more nearly E. towards
Watern Tor, as in Ex. 19. A track will be seen leading up to it. On
reaching this cross the stream and follow it downward for a short
distance, and then strike E. to Teign Clapper. To Chagford see S.
Ex. 51 ; to Gidleigh Ex. 19.
C. R. 13.— From CHAGFORD via Pernworthy, 8£ m. Tawton
Gate, as in Ex. 21 ; thence by the road to Fernworthy, and up the lane
by the farmhouse as in Ex. 20 ; from the gate at the head of the lane
follow the green track (T. 45) to Teign Head Farm. A carriage can be
driven to this solitary dwelling, from which Cranmere is 2^ m. distant
W.N.W. The hill facing the bridge may be ascended by the pedestrian,
leaving the farm L. The course given must be followed to White
Horse Gate, f m., from Teign Head Bridge. Here the farm enclosures
are left behind, and the way lies W.N.W. over White Horse Hill.
On the L. is the source of the Varracombe Brook. Half-a-mile on is
Moute's Inn, the scanty remains of a peat-cutter's hut. From this W.
by N. for -?, m. to East Dart Head. Cranmere is now \ m. distant N.W ,
or N.W. by W. from the upper spring in the small hollow, R. in ascending.
(See C.R. la). When High WUles comes into view it must be taken as
a landmark, and the Pool will soon be reached.
Great Links
Tor.
N.W.
FROM NEAR E. DART HEAD.
6o
C.R. 14. Moreton and North Bovey to Cranmere.
East Dart Head will be the first point in returning, £ m. S.E. of
the pool. Keep it R. and strike E. by S. past Moute's Inn to the wall
of the Teign Head enclosures. This will bring the rambler to White
Horse Gate ; it is better to bear a little L. of the line on leaving Dart
Head, and on reaching the wall follow it S., so that the gate may not
be missed. E.S.E. across the enclosure to Teign Head Farm. Thence
by the track to Pernworthy and on by the road to Tawton Gate, near
Yardworthy. To Chagford as in S. Ex. 56.
C. R. 14.— From MORETON and NORTH BOVEY, ii£ m. By
road to Tawton Gate and Fern worthy. Thence as in C. R. 13.
From Moreton the road runs by way of Thorn and Stiniel. See Moreton
to Metheral.
From the southern part of the moor the starting-points of the
Cranmere routes are Princetown and Two Bridges, C. R. i, 2 ; from
the south-eastern part, Post Bridge, C. R. 16, 17 ; and the Warren
House Inn, C. R. 15. These are given in Part I. One route from
Princetown via Cut Hill, 8£ m., or /£ m. from Two Bridges (C. R. ic),
is more fully given, with the return, in Ex. 1 1 , Part II.
The route from Cranmere to Princetown and Two Bridges is here
shown in case the rambler should desire to cross the moor to either of
those places from the neighbourhood of Chagford by way of the Pool.
To East Dart Head, as in C. R. 13 ; thence down that river to the
bend, 2 m. ; then strike due S. to the West Dart, li M., which follow
downward to Two Bridges.
Black
Ridge.
Okement Cranmere
Hill. x
Hangingstone
Steeperton. Hill.
FROM CUT HILL. LOOKING N.
ROAD DISTANCES TO BOVEY TRACEY. 61
LUSTLEIGH AND BOVEY TRACEY
DISTRICT.
DISTANCES (to Bovey). BY ROAD: ASHBURTON, j\ m..
BARRAMOOR BRIDGE, via Manaton, 8 m. BECKY FALL, 4 m.
BEETOR CROSS, via Manaton, 8f m. BICKINGTON, 3 m. BUCK-
FA STLEIGH, via Ashburton, 1 0^- m. B UCKLA ND-IN-THE-MOOR,
via Hemsworthy Gate, g\ m. ; via Ashburton, n^m. CHAGFORD,
via Moreton, n m. CHRISTOW, via Hennock and Canonteign, 5 m.
CHUDLEIGH, 4 m. CLIFFORD BRIDGE, via Dunsford, or via
Moreton, 10 m. COLD EAST CROSS, 6£ m. DART MEET, via
Hemsworthy Gate and Widecombe, \2\ m. DUNSFORD, via
Christow, 8 m. EXETER, via Chudleigh, 1 3 m. FINGLE BRIDGE,
via Moreton, 9f m. GRENDON BRIDGE, via Widecombe, lof m.
GRIM'S POUND, via Widecombe and Hill Head, 12+ m. ; via Moor
Gate, i if m. HALSHANGER CROSS, 6 m. HEMSWORTHY
GATE, 5 m. HENNOCK, 2 m. HEXWORTHY, via Dartmeet,
14 m. HEY TOR, see I^ud Gate. HEYTREE CROSS, j\ m,
ILSINGTON, via Brimley, 3 m. IVYBRIDGE, via Ashburton,
20% m. LUD GATE, 3 m. LUSTLEIGH, 3^ m. LYDFORD, via
Moreton and Sandy Park, 29 m. MANATON, 5 m. MOOR GATE,
via Manaton, 9f m. MORETON, 6% m. NEWTON ABBOT, $1- m.
NORTH BO VEY, via Manaton or Sanduck, 7^ m. OKEHAMPTON,
via Moreton and Sandy Park, 20 m. PLYMOUTH, via Ashburton
and Ivybridge, 31 m. PLYMPTON, do., 27 m. POST BRIDGE
(the Dart), via Grendon Bridge, 13!- m. PRINCETOWN, via Dart-
meet, 19 m. SANDUCK, 5^ m. SOUTH BRENT, via Ashburton,
15! m. SWINE DOWN GATE, via Owlacombe Barrow and
Leighon, 6 m. TA VISTOCK, via Two Bridges and Rundle Stone,
25! m. TWO BRIDGES, via Dartmeet, 17$ m. WARREN HOUSE
INN, via Moor Gate, 12 m. WELSTOR CROSS, 7% m. WIDE-
COMBE, via Hemsworthy Gate, 6| m. YELVERTON, via Prince-
town, 25 m.
BY RAII,: (G.W.R.) To MORETON, 6£ m. To NEWTON
ABBOT, 6 m. From Newton Abbot to Ashburton, 18 m. ; Brent,
15-^ m. ; Buckfastleigh, 15^ m. ; Cornwood, 23^- m. ; Exeter, 20^ m. ;
Ivybridge, 21 m. ; Plymouth, 32^ m. ; Plympton, 2j\ m. ; Torquay,
5f m. ; Totnes, 8| m.
Bovey Tracey may also be reached from Exeter by the Teign
Valley Railway, which runs via Christow, Ashton, and Chudleigh to
Heathfield, which latter is quite near. This railway is of service to
the tourist who wishes to explore the country round Christow and
Bridford.
62 LUSTLEIGH AND BOVEY TRACEY DISTRICT.
Important Points and Landmarks.
Important Points. Hemsworthy Gate — Hey Tor — Rippon Tor —
Swine Down Gate, or Swallaton Gate — Widecombe. Other Places of
Interest. Becky Falls — Bottor — Bowerman's Nose — Hound Tor —
Lustleigh Cleave — Manaton. Prehistoric Antiquities. Black Hill:
tumuli — Holwell Tor : hut circles — Torhill : hut circles and reaves —
Tunhill : kistvaen.
Bovey Tracey takes its name from the river on which it is situated,
and the family which formerly possessed it. The Bovey was once also
known as the West Teign. Though not a suitable base from which to
explore the wilder parts of Dartmoor, it is well placed with regard to
that corner of it comprising Ilsington Common, part of Manaton
Common lands, and Lustleigh, while the Widecombe valley can also
"be conveniently reached from it.
The manor of Bovey formed one of the possessions of the Barony
of Barnstaple, which was bestowed in the Conqueror's reign upon the
Bishop of Coutances. The Barony was afterwards given to Judhael,
and subsequently passed to the Traceys, who seem to have contributed
in no small degree to the welfare of the place. Henry de Tracey is
said to have obtained in 1259 a charter for a market and fair, to be
held there, though Risdon states that a market was purchased by Eva
de Tracey twenty-seven years before that date. These were stiU held
when Risdon wrote, in the earlier part of the seventeenth century, the
fairs taking place on Ascension Day and St. Thomas's Day.
Bovey did not remain undisturbed during the Civil War period.
Lord Wentworth's brigade was surprised there by the Parliamentarians
on the pth January, 1646, and the old story, found in many other
places, of the Royalist officers being engaged at cards and throwing
their stakes among the people in the hope that during the scramble
for the money they would be able to escape from their enemies, is
related in connection with the fight. This is a myth ; the only thing
•we can be sure of is that the Royalist troops were utterly defeated.
The Parliamentarians were under the command of Cromwell himself,
then Lieutenant-General. One account states that besides a number
of officers, one hundred soldiers were taken prisoners, and that four
hundred horses, one hundred and fifty head of cattle, and three hundred
stands of arms, were secured by the victors.
Before starting on our excursions from Bovey it will be well to
describe the great hill of Hamel Down (or Hameldon, as it is more often
called), together with the valley of Widecombe, in case the visitor
should desire to extend his rambles that far. These are also con-
veniently reached from Ashburton or Post Bridge, and the routes from
those places are given in the description of that part of the moor
in their vicinity. The way to the northern end of Hameldon from
Chagford and Moreton has already been shown (R. 33, S. Ex. 59, 60).
HAMELDON. 63
Hameldon and the Widecombe Valley.
Hameldon occupies the central portion of the lofty ridge extending
from Shapley Common on the north to Bittleford Down on the south,
a distance of 5 m. This central portion is about 2\ m. in length, and,
at its widest, i4- m. in width, the ridge here rising between the valleys
of the East and West Webburn. It is bounded on the north by the
combe in which Grim's Pound is situated (Ex. 22), and may be said
to terminate in the opposite direction near the Church Way, which
crosses the down from Blackaton to Widecombe (T. 76). Overlooking
the combe, as already stated (Ex. 22), is Hameldon Tor, 1,737 leet m
height, and this elevation is nearly maintained by the ridge for a
distance of i£ m., when, at Hameldon Beacon (surface level, 1,695 '•
bench mark, 1,697) tne ground begins to drop towards the S. The
rambler who takes the trouble to scale this huge rounded ridge will
find himself wtll rewarded, for though he may not, as the moormen
say, be able to see the whole of Devon from it, it is certain that he will
look over a good deal of the county. Though the western foot of
Hameldon is some mile and a half outside the forest, the greater part
of the ancient hunting-ground is nevertheless visible, as well as much
of the belt of common land encircling it. In fact, there are few
prominent heights in the moorland region that cannot be seen from this
hill, while from whatever point it is itself viewed it forms a conspicuous
feature in the scene.
About £ m. S.S.E. of Hameldon Tor is Hameldon Cross, and
between these a reave runs from a small bog on the western slope of
the hill (from which a rivulet dribbles into the Webburn) across to
another little stream on its eastern side. This reave was said by the
Rev. J. P. Jones, to whom we have referred as the author of a little
book on the scenery in the neighbourhood of Moreton, published in
1823, to have been traced to Waydon Tor (by which is meant White
Tor, called on the moor Whitten Tor), and this can still be done,
although there are several breaks in it. It is briefly noticed in Ex. 46^
which describes that part of the moor in which White Tor is situated.
The stream on the eastern side ef the hill forms the boundary between
the common lands of Manaton and Widecombe, and this is drawn
from its head to Hameldon Cross, the space between the two being
marked by a couple of bondstones, the lower one being called Blue Jug
and the other the Grey Wethers Stone.* This line also forms the
* Among other bondstones on this ridge may be mentioned
Hameldon Old House and Aaron's Knock. Another mark is named
Two Crosses, and these were formerly cut on the turf. The late
Mr. Robert Dymond, owner of Dunstone Manor, intended to erect a
mark at this point, but was undecided whether it should take the
form of a cross with two pairs of arms, or two separate crosses. We
had some correspondence on the subject, but unfortunately his death
put an end to the project.
64 HAMELDON.
northern boundary of Natsworthy Manor, one of the six in the parish
of Widecombe, and which in the sixteenth century, appears amongfthe
vills bordering the east quarter of the forest as North Werthiehed, and
also as North Worthied. On the Widecombe side of the little stream,
which runs through a hollow, is the enclosure known as Berry Pound,
to which reference has been made in our Chagford excursions
(S. Ex. 60). The area covered is very much smaller than that occupied
by Grirn's Pound, and the vallum is low and not of great width. It is
about •}- m. W.N.W. of Higher Natsworthy.
Hameldon Cross consists of a granite slab rather over four feet
in height and about two feet in width, rudely fashioned into the form
of the sacred symbol, and probably has never served any other purpose
than that of a boundary stone. Like other manorial bondmarks on
this hill it bears its name (or rather, in this instance, the initials of its
name) and the letters D.S., which stand for Duke of Somerset, the
former owner of Natsworthy, and the date 1854, in which year the
marks were set up or renewed. [Crosses, Chap. XVI.] Less than \ m.
S.E. of the cross is Broad Barrow, to which the boundary line runs, and
is thence continued due S. to Single Barrow, which is not far off. This
tumulus was opened in 1873 by the late Mr. C. Spence Bate, and was
found to consist of earth with the exception of a low hedge of stones
which encircled it, and a low cairn in the centre. About six feet from
the latter a small heap of burnt human bones was discovered, together
with some fragments of charcoal, and a flint flake. From Single
Barrow the boundary runs a little E. of S. to Two Barrows, which are
close to the corner of the wall surrounding Blackaton Down. This
wall is carried down the hill westward to the Webburn, more than 500
feet below, and here forms a boundary of Manaton parish, Blackaton
Down, as well as Hameldon, being in Widecombe. One of these
barrows was also opened by Mr. Spence Bate, in the year preceding
that of his investigation of Single Barrow. He found it to be formed
like the other, and it also yielded burnt human bones and charcoal.
But the chief object of interest was the bronze blade of a dagger, and
the amber pommel of the same, inlaid with small pins of gold. This
is now in the Museum of the Plymouth Institution. The boundary
between the manors of Natsworthy and Blackaton is now marked by
the wall which runs S.E. by S. for \ m. to the large tumulus known as
Hameldon Beacon, over which it is carried, f
The view from this elevated spot is exceedingly fine. Many of
the hills with which our wanderings have made us familiar are in sight,
as well as a number of others yet to be visited. North Hisworthy, on
the other side of the forest, and which we ascended from Princetown
(Princetown District) is plainly seen to the W.S.W., and to the right
of it, a little S. of W., the granite cap of Mis Tor. Cut Hill rises
from the recesses of the north quarter W.N.W. , and from this the
eye ranges over a great extent of moorland to Cosdon, the summit of
which bears N.W. by N. Nearly due S. is Brent Hill, and to the right
of it, S. by W., and a dozen miles away, the Eastern Beacon, which
looks far out over the South Hams from its frontier station on
Ugborough Moor (Ex. 32). Eastward, on the further side of the
f A stone chair preserved in a garden near Crediton is said to have
been brought there from Hameldon about 1840.
WIDECOMBE-IN-THE-MOOR. 65
Widecombe Valley, are the tors of Honeybag and Chinkwell, and
beyond them Hound Tor, Hey Tor, and Rippon Tor.
The wall now runs south-westward for about £ m. to the head of
a little stream that falls into the Broadford Brook, a tributary of the
West Webburn, but the limit of Natsworthy Manor is marked by
bondstones, the line extending from. the beacon E.S.E. for £ m. to Bag
Park Plantation. About i m. S. of these stones the Church Way
crosses the down, running S.E. from the head of Gore Hill to the top of
Church Lane, which leads down to Widecombe Green. Southward of
this is Dunstone Down, and still further south, Bittleford Down, where
the ridge terminates.
The fine group of rocks known as Honeybag Tor is the northern-
most of a range extending for about 2^ m. S. by E., others being the
equally striking Chinkwell Tor and Bonehill Rocks, with many minor
piles hereafter mentioned. The high land from which these rise forms
the E. side of the deep Widecombe valley, the head of which is a little
to the N. of Honeybag, where the branches of the East Webburn
meet. This stream, which was anciently called the Niprell, runs
through it, as also does a road, the latter coming down from Heytree
Cross (R. 32). The valley is here very narrow, and the scenery of a
romantic character. A short distance below the confluence of the
Webburn branches is the entrance to Bag Park, and below this Wide-
combe Manor House, not far from which the road crosses the stream
and runs near its right bank. Below Bonehill Rocks, and about i£ m.
from its head, the sides of the valley fall back, and here, about its
centre, and on slightly rising ground, is the village which for many
centuries has been closely connected with the forest, and which is
known as Widecombe-in-the-Moor.
In our notice of the Lich Path (T. 18), we have spoken of the
application made to Bishop Bronescombe in 1260 by the dwellers in
the ancient tenements of Babeny and Pizwell within the forest to be
allowed to pay their tithes to the parson of Widecombe, that being the
church to which they mostly resorted, in consequence of their own
parish church of Lydford being at a great distance from them. And until
the mission chapels at Huccaby and Post Bridge were built, in 1868-9,
the forest men of the Wallabrook Valley attended Widecombe Church.
They were, however, compelled to go to Lydford occasionally, for it
was there that the Forest Courts were held, but beyond this it is
probable that they felt less interest in that place than in Widecombe.
At the present day it is likely that even this is diminished, though
they are periodically reminded by the visits of the rate-collector that
such a place exists.
Besides Natsworthy, which four hundred years ago was set down
in a forester's account as a hamlet, there were five vills in Widecombe
parish, namely, Sherwell and Grendon, the two Cators, or, as the
forester gives it, the " hamelett de North Catrowe " and the " villat
de Higher Catrowe," and another the name of which does not appear
in the account.
No inhabited district in the whole of the moorland region has better
preserved its primitive aspect than the Widecombe Valley and the hill
country about it, and the visitor who desires to look into an old-
fashioned land, free from what are erroneously called " improve-
ments," will here find much to delight him. Open moor, rocky heights,
F3
66 WIDECOMBE-IN-THE-MOOR.
clear streams, and shady lanes, invite him to wander, and he will not
go far without stumbling upon something to remind him of a by-gone
day. On the commons he will fiud relics of the stone man ; on their
verge, or hidden away in some combe, that interesting feature of the
Dartmoor border parishes, the substantially built farmhouses of a couple
of centuries or more ago ; in the hamlets the upping-stock, reminis-
cent of the time when the pillion was in vogue ; the broken crosses
that tell of Time's ravages, or the vandal's hand ; walls of grey granite
straggling along steep hillsides and enclosing crofts in which boulders
are hardly less apparent than pasturage ; rude bridges and solitary
cots ; the tiny manor pound ; and much else that is " quaint and
curious."
Widecombe Church, which has been sometimes called the Cathe-
dral of the Moor, is a large building in the Perpendicular style, and
possesses a handsome tower, over a hundred feet in height. At the
corners of this are double buttresses, diminishing in size as they ascend
the stages, of which there are three. The top is battlemented and
ornamented with four crocketted pinnacles, each surmounted with a
cross. According to tradition the church was built by tinners, who,
having been particularly successful in their ventures in the locality,
adopted this course of showing their thankfulness for their good for-
tune, and the presence of the alchemical symbol of three rabbits on
one of the bosses of the roof (which also appears at Chagford and in
other moorland churches) has been thought to support this. It is, of
course, quite possible that those who came into the Webburn valleys
to seek tin should have re-built, or assisted to re-build, the church,
which was not only attended by the parishioners of Widecombe, but
also by those who dwelt in the south-east corner, of the forest, where
many of the Streamworks were, and although it is unwise to place too
much credence in tradition, it is sometimes found to have a foundation
in fact. The size of the church is readily to be accounted for when it is
remembered what district it was intended to serve, but the beauty of
the tower, which far surpasses that of any other in the moorland
district, certainly points to its having been erected in circumstances
other than the ordinary, and thus we may not unreasonably suppose
the story to be true. It is also not improbable that the forest men
joined with the tinners in furthering the work. On Sunday, the 2ist
October, 1638, Widecombe Church was the scene of an occurrence of a
kind which, though not unknown in other border villages, is happily
one that is rare. While the service was proceeding the vicar, the
Rev. George Lyde, being in the pulpit, a sudden darkness fell, and
speedily a terrific thunder-storm broke over the building, doing con-
siderable damage. Four persons were killed, and sixty-two injured,
either by the lightning or falling masonry, large stones being hurled
from the tower into the body of the church. An account of the storm
appeared the same year, two tracts on the subject being published in
London, and it was also commemorated in some lines written by
Richard Hill, the village schoolmaster, as well as in others by the
Rev. George Lyde, and these have since been printed. Hill's lines
were painted in black letter on boards and fixed in the chancel, but,
presumably having become decayed, were replaced by the present
ones, which bear the date 1786. It was there that I first saw these
wooden tablets, but when the church was restored in 1874 they were
WIDECOMBE-IN-THE-MOOR. 67
removed, and fixed against the wall in the basement of the tower,
where they may now be seen. Opposite to them is a fragment of one
of the old black letter boards, which came to light in a neighbouring
cottage a few years ago. At the foot of the lines are the names of
the churchwardens in 1786 — Peter and Sylvester Mann. This name
has existed in the locality for many centuries, and it is still found there.
In the Court Rolls of the loth of Henry VI., 1432-3, Robert Manna
is mentioned as having taken land of the Lord of the Forest ; in 1 5 79-
80, Anthony Man, of Wydecomb, surrendered the moiety of a tenement
at Babeny, then held by Leonard Man ; and hi 1702 Richard Man is
named as one of the forest tenants at Dunnabridge.
There are three stone crosses, or rather the remains of them, at
Widecombe. Just without the churchyard gate is the base of one,
but the cross itself is gone, and a small yew is now growing in the place
it occupied. Very near to the south porch is a cross standing in a
socket stone. The upper part of this one, which it will be seen has
been restored, was formerly built into the churchyard wall. The
third cross stands in the vicarage garden, where it was placed many
years ago, but its original site was on the green at Dunstone. Vide
post. [Crosses, Chap. XVI.] Another 'relic of an older day is the well,
over which is raised a curious little edifice of granite. Close to the
churchyard gate is a row of ancient ahnshouses, and on the opposite
side of the road, the Old Inn. Behind the former is the green, a fine
open space, whence a good view of the church tower is obtained. In
the churchyard wall, and quite close to a gate at the back of the houses,
is a small circular stone, 21 niches in diameter, and having a round
hole through its centre. It is apparently a quern. On the north side
of the green formerly stood the home of the Fitz Ralphs, of which a
description has been left us in some verses by Richard Hill, the author
of the lines commemorative of the great storm. This was North Hall,
or as they have it locally, Narral, but the sole vestiges of it are some
grass-covered mounds. In Hill's day, however, this moorland mansion
was still standing, though, as he says, it was then much decayed. He
describes it as being at one time surrounded with " moats of standing
water," but only the ruined banks were then to be seen.
" And when the family within would walk into the town,
Or else return, a draw-bridge firm they presently let down ;
And at their pleasure drew it up to keep the household safe.
This house did anciently belong to Raph, the son of Raph."
In the thirteenth century Robert Courtenay granted certain
privileges to the burgesses of Okehampton by charter. Among the
names of those by whom this was attested occurs that of Ralph, son of
Ralph, who was probably a representative of this Widecombe family ;
as also, it is supposed, was Richard Fitz-Ralph, made Archbishop of
Armagh and Primate of Ireland by Pope Clement VI., in 1347.
The parish has not been without its benefactors. In a law case in
1689, at which time Jonathan Tickell was Vicar, mention was made
by Thomas Lyde, one of the deponents, of two deeds dated i2th
December, 1479, as being then in the church chest at Widecombe. By
these a grant of the Church House was made to the trustees for the
benefit of the parishioners. About the year 1797 Miss White gave the
sum of ^142, to be applied to the education of poor children of
the parish. The interest being augmented by annual subscriptions,
68 WIDECOMBE-IN-THE-MOOR.
four schools were supported, and instruction given to fifty children.
The poor had also 133. a year, which was left by Lewis Wills and
Sampson Jerinan.
William Stephens, of the " Leek Seed Chapel," was born in this
parish in 1742. He left Widecombe in early life, and after some
adventurous years became a gardener, and ultimately settled near
St. Blazey, in Cornwall, where the chapel, which his labours helped so
much to build, is situated. He died in 1822.
John Gerrard, the author of a book of poems published in 1769,
was for some tune curate of Widecombe. He does not, however,
appear to have been a native of Devon.
Jonas Coaker, the Dartmoor poet, to whom we have referred in
Part I., spent the earlier years of his life in Widecombe. In 1876 he
contributed some verses descriptive of the place to a book edited by
Mr. Robert Dymond, of Blackslade.
From 1815 until his death in 1860 the Rev. James Holman Mason
was vicar of Widecombe. He was a parson of the old-fashioned type,
and many stories are yet related concerning him. Soon after his
institution to the parish he was appointed a deputy rider and master
forester of Dartmoor. [Hundred Years, Chap. V.] At the manor
house lived his niece, Mrs. Drake, or Lady Drake, as she insisted on
being called, who is still well remembered for her eccentricities.
Widecombe has been called the cold country, and like every other
place in the Dartmoor region, at certain times it must be confessed its
climate is anything but genial. I have been on the top of Hameldon
when the hill was hard gripped by the hand of Winter, and darkness
was coming on, and was made painfully aware of it. In the in-country
it used to be said when snow was falling that Widecombe folks were
picking their geese. It has, however, been suggested that " Wide-
combe " in this case is merely a corruption of " widdicote," meaning
the sky, and it is possible that a confusion of terms led to the former
belief that Widecombe was a very cold place. The comparison of
falling snow with feathers was made a very long time ago. When the
Scythians said the air was filled with them, Herodotus was at no loss
to understand what was meant.
In September falls the great event of the year in this moorland
parish. It is then that Widecombe Fair is held, and forest folk and
men from the in-country for miles around flock to the village, as on a
certain day (Tom Pearse havin' lained he's grey mare) did " Beel
Brewer, Jan Stewer, Peter Gurney, Peter Davy, Dan'l Whiddon,
Harry Hawk, Old Uncle Tom Cobbleigh and all." Then for a brief
space unwonted sounds are heard ; the voices of buyer and seller, and
the laughter of the reveller, break the quietude. But the next rising
sun looks down into the valley to see it again in repose, in which state
it continues till, another twelve months having passed, the day of
business and festivity comes round again.
BOVEY TRACEY IN THE PAST. 69
Excursions from Bovey Tracey, Lustleigh,
and Ilsington.
The district described in these excursions is bounded on the N.
by a line drawn from Lustleigh Cleave through Manaton to Heytree
Down ; on the W. by the ridge of Hameldon ; and on the S. by a line
running from Dunstone to Chittleford, Blackslade Down, and Hems-
worthy Gate, to Bag Tor Down. In the Shorter Excursions a few
places near the town of Bovey Tracey are also described, and in the
Excursions from Widecombe directions are given for reaching the
chief objects of interest in that locality.
[Tracks in the vicinity : Nos. 48 to 52.]
A few objects will claim our attention before we set out on our
rambles. Bovey Tracey church stands at the higher part of the town,
and is dedicated to St. Thomas, of Canterbury. It is in the Per-
pendicular style, and contains, among other memorials, monuments to
Sir John Stawell, who died in 1669 ; Nicholas Eveleigh, who died in
1620 ; and Elizeus Hele, of Fardle, near Ivybridge. Those of the two
last-named are cenotaphs, neither of the men they commemorate being
buried here. The monuments were erected, it is said, by the widow
of Hele, who had been wife to both. Very wisely she put no inscriptions
on the monuments, so there is nothing to criticize. Near the south
gate of the churchyard is a very handsome cross, but it is in great
measure a " restoration." The lower part of the shaft and one of the
arms are all that belongs to the original cross, but it was deemed fitting
that these fragments should be preserved. Its erection here was due
to the efforts of the Hon. and Rev. Canon Courtenay, when he became
vicar of Bovey.
In the centre of the town is another of these memorials of a past
day. This is the old market cross, which was repaired and placed in
its present situation in 1865. The lower stage of the pedestal on which
it stands is modern, as also is the head of the cross. A third cross is
to be seen built into the wall of a garden belonging to Cross Cottage,
not far from Higher Atway Farm.
At Indio, near a new church that was built in 1853, there was
formerly a priory, or cell, of Black Friars, and a chapel is also ~aid to
have existed in former days in the vicinity of the town. This was
situated under Colehays Plantation, and not very far from Lower
Brimley. (S. Ex. 81).
Ex. 23. — Lustleigh, Lustleigh Cleave, Little Silver, Manaton,
Bowerman's Nose, Becky Fall, Trendlebere Down, 13 m. from and to
Bovey Station. From Lud Gate (the point where the road from
Ilsington to Hey Tor enters on the common), and Ilsington about
i m. more.
For the purpose of visiting the romantic valley known as Lust-
leigh Cleave, and the district around Manaton, where so much that is
interesting is to be found, we shall first make our way to the village
70 LUSTLEIGH AND BOVEY TRACEY DISTRICT.
of Lustleigh, which is charmingly situated in the valley of the Wray.
Should the visitor prefer the walk through the lanes instead of taking
the train at Bovey (the distance by railway is 2£ m.), he will cross the
line at the station and follow the road for about £ m. to Five Wyches
Cross, where he will turn R. ± m. on is a footpath across some fields
R., and into this he will strike, and skirting Lodge Wood, and crossing
a road (running R. to Wilford Bridge), will be led by it to Pullaford
Farm. This he will pass through, and follow the lane to New Bridge
on the Bovey.
Visitors at the Rock Hotel, The Moorland Hotel, and Lud Gate
will take the Bovey road to the fork beyond Owlacombe, i£ m. from
the latter, and then branch L. across Lower Down to the guide-post,
there turning R. to New Bridge.
Visitors at Ilsington, or the Hey Tor Hotel, first make their way
to Narrowcombe, where they will turn L. and passing up the hill
to the guide-post on the verge of the common, will reach the
Bovey road. Here they turn R. to the forks beyond Owlacombe and
follow the directions just given.
Immediately beyond New Bridge is Packsaddle Bridge, which
spans the Wray. The former the visitor will cross, but not the latter,
the road to Lustleigh turning L- between the two. A little way on
this forks, the point being marked by a guide-post. If it should be
desired to go to the cleave direct the L- branch must be followed ; for
Lustleigh village the R. branch will be chosen. (By the L. road the
down will be reached in £ m. Pass the first cross road ; then the
entrance to Pethybridge Farm'; then a second road, and continue W.
to the common. From this point a footpath runs across it to another
leading down to a footbridge on the Bovey below Wanford Wood,
f- m. distant).
Lustleigh, like Bovey Tracey, is outside venville, and has played
no part in Dartmoor history, but it has its place among the parishes
that go to form the moorland region, nevertheless, and contributes
in no slight degree to its beauties. The village is small, but has a
pleasing appearance, not only on account of its delightful situation,
but for the manner in which the cottages are dotted about. The church
possesses several features of interest, among them being a Norman
font, two ancient monumental tombs, and an inscribed stone of the
Romano-British period. One monument is supposed to be the effigy
of Sir William Prouz, and another is generally believed to be to the
memory of Sir John Dynham and his wife, though there is much doubt
about this. In 1483 the office of Master Forester of Dartmoor was
granted to Sir John.
The Rev. William Davy, who was curate of the parish at the
latter end of the eighteenth century and during the first quarter of the
nineteenth century, was the compiler of a work which he called A System
of Divinity, and which consisted of 26 volumes of nearly 500 pages each.
Not being willing to incur the risk of having it printed, he purchased
a fount of worn-out type, made a press, and set up and printed the
•whole work himself. WTien it was completed he presented a copy to
his diocesan ; referring to it later the bishop remarked that he could
not be supposed to notice every trifle that appeared in print. William
Davy is remembered to-day, but the bishop is forgotten ; posterity
does not regard the result of fifty years' labour as a trifle.
72 LUSTLEIGH AND BOVEY TRACEY DISTRICT.
Not far from the station is a block of granite, which it is not
unlikely formed the pedestal of a cross. It is known as the Bishop's
Stone, and tradition relates that Bishop Grandisson once dined upon it.
The carving on the side, of which, however, only traces are now to
be seen, has been said to represent the arms of that prelate. But
there is reason for supposing that it was once a bondmark to some
lands connected with the See of Exeter, and it may have obtained its
name in that connection. [Crosses, Chap. XV.] Another curious
object in this locality is a rock at the rectory on the road to Sanduck
called the Parson's Brown Loaf, but which, it appears, once bore the
name of the Map Stone, and this has been given to the villa near by.
In order to reach the common we shall turn up a lane near the
smithy, which in about \ m. will bring us to Ellimore. Just beyond
this we turn R., and proceeding for a short distance towards Hammers-
lake turn L., and shall speedily find ourselves, close to Sharp Tor, the
summit of which is about 200 feet above us. From this pile of rocks
we have a fine view of the cleave, by which term is now comprehended
the romantic valley from above Poxworthy to Hisley Wood, though
there is good reason to believe that in this case the word cleave is a
corruption of cliff, (cf. Tavy Cleave, Ex. n). At all events, there
is documentary evidence showing that the hill was once known as
Bortor Down and Bovey Combe Cliff, and Bovey Combe is still found
here, a cottage above Hisley Wood being called by that name. On
the tor is a logan bearing the name of the Nutcrackers, one which is
applied to most of the moving stones on the moor, and on the slope
are one or two other " logging " rocks. A little to the S.E- of the tor
is a small circular enclosure, and there are vestiges of another a short
distance N.W. on land belonging to South Harton- Farm, while at the
N.W. end of the ridge, near Hunters Tor, is an ancient hill camp.
This, and another at Water Hill, on the ridge on the further side of the
valley, form part of the chain of forts referred to in our notice of the
encampments above the gorge of the Teign (S. Exs. 64, 65, 66). Some
miles further S. are Place Wood Camp, Boro Wood Castle, Holne
Chase Castle, and Hembury Castle, all of which are briefly noticed in
our account of the Ashburton District.
The valley of Lustleigh Cleave is formed by the ridge situated
between the Wray and the Bovey, and the steeps rising from the latter
to the farm lands of Manaton. One side of it — that on which we stand
— is bare common, the other is clothed with woods. At the lower end
of the valley this further side takes the form of a peninsulated ridge,
at the eastern extremity of which the Bovey and the Becky Brook unite
their waters. This is known as Hound Tor Ridge, or Hound Tor
Wood, its higher slopes forming Water Hill, on which is situated the
encampment just referred to. On the further side of this ridge the
Becky comes down from Hound Tor Combe, the valley here being
formed by the wood and East Down, as the common below Trendle-
bere Down is called. N.W. of Sharp Tor is a rock called Harton Chest,
and just beyond this the fine entrance to South Harton Farm. A little
further on the highest part of the ridge is reached, 1,063 feet- an(i beyond
this, and about i m. from Sharp Tor, is the Lustleigh Camp. Quite
near to it is Hunters Tor, from which the hills drops down to the enclosed
lands at its N.W. extremity. A spur of it runs a short distance north-
ward of the camp, and this is known as North Harton Down. Not far
EXCURSION 23. LUSTLEIGH CLEAVE. 73
from Hunters Tor is Peck Farm, a name borne by some old mining
remains near by, these being usually known as Peck Pits. In the
Shorter Excursions, post, we have again noticed the cleave (S. Ex. 75 ;
vide also Gems, Chap. IX.)
It has already been stated that a number of paths cross the down,
forming the steep side of the cleave (T. 48), and one of these leads
from near Sharp Tor to crossing- places on the Bovey. This we may
strike by making our way southward from the tor, and shall then
follow it R. Our next point is Manaton, the church of which we have
been able to see from the tor nearly due W., and i-J- m. off, but we do
not make our way direct to it. Instead of doing so we follow the path
down the hill, avoiding the branches L., and passing some rocks called
the Poxes' Yard (L. of the path and \ m. from the tor) shall be led to
Horsham Steps. This curious crossing-place is formed by a number
of boulders lying so closely together that unless the river be in flood
it is possible to walk from one bank to the other with ease. In fact,
the stream is not seen, as it finds a channel for itself under the huge
lumps of granite. Below the steps it falls into a fine pool known as
Horsham Bay, and then sweeps round the wooded height of Horsham
Cleave, which is crowned with a pile of rocks. Form these natural
stepping-stones a path climbs the hill on the further side of the stream
to Horsham Farm, whence a lane runs to Manaton, but instead of
following this we pass up the I,, bank of the river, under the crags of
Ravens' Tor, which rise from the hillside R., some 300 feet above us, to
Foxworthy. First we pass the disused Foxworthy Mill, and proceeding
along a narrow track shall speedily reach the farm. Here we turn L.
to Foxworthy Bridge, a clapper spanning the Bovey, on the bank of
which just below is the mass of granite known as the Round of Beef,
and shall find ourselves in one of the loveliest nooks in the whole of
Devon. Close to us on the R. is the thatched cottage called Little
Silver, which, placed amidst a congeries of moorstone, and embosomed
in trees, adds much to the romantic character of the scene. The name
Silver is found attached to several places in the county, and much
ingenuity has been exercised in regard to its meaning. The last
syllable may possibly be a corruption of ford, and may refer to a crossing-
place on a stream, or to a road or path, but the meaning of sil is not
apparent. It may, however, be pointed out that in Domesday Silverton
appears as Sulfreton, and in old documents we have such a place-name
at Sulhford. Hence it has been suggested that the first syllable of the
name was originally sul, and perhaps had some connection with the
Anglo-Saxon word for plough, which implement is even yet spoken of
on the moor as a sull.
Leaving the charming scene we make our way up a steep and
narrow path, through the wood called Neadon Cleave, on emerging
from which the path will lead us across some fields to a lane, which
will shortly bring us to another, where we turn L., and shall speedily
find ourselves at Manaton. The chief feature of this Dartmoor village,
and one that is particularly pleasing, is its spacious green. This is
bordered with trees, and around it the houses are grouped. At its
higher, or northern end, is a small inn, the Half Moon, and behind this
is the tor called Manaton Rocks, which, instead of rising bare and
stern from the heather, springs, as it were, from masses of foliage
where the light quivering leaves of the quickbeam contrast delightfully
74 LUSTLEIGH AND BOVEY TRACEY DISTRICT.
with the dark green of the glistening holly. The view of Lustleigh
Cleave from this cluster of rocks is remarkably fine. In another
direction, S. by E., we see Hey Tor, and S.W. by S., beyond the little
valley of the Hayne, the great stone which Nature has rudely moulded
into a semblance of the human form, and to which has been given the
name of Bowerman's Nose.
In the churchyard is the base of a cross. The cross was removed
many years ago by a former rector on account of a custom the country-
people had of carrying corpses brought for burial round it thrice. His
influence over his flock does not appear to have been sufficiently power-
ful to enable him to dissuade the people from continuing the practice,
and so he took it away and either destroyed or buried it. Search was
made for it, but without any satisfactory result. [Crosses, Chap. XV.]
A few years ago an old cross was discovered near the village and
was set up in the churchyard. But whether it is the cross that the
rector removed is open to question. It is more of the character of a
wayside cross than of one designed to stand in such a place. Great
damage was done to the church by lightning on the I3th December,
1779.* Itis Perpendicular in style, and was restored in 1 8 6 5 . The door-
way is formed of four huge granite stones, and a similar one is seen at
Lustleigh. An enclosure formerly existed near the village which was
described in a paper read before the members of the Plymouth Institu-
tion in 1830, and was conjectured by Colonel Hamilton Smith to have
given name to the place, maen-y-dun, the stone enclosure (dun, a hill, or
hill-fort), but it was unfortunately destroyed in 1849. It was of an
elliptical form, and consisted of a wall formed of stones from four to
six feet high set on their edges. Its diameters were 100 feet and 138
feet.f A fragment of an ancient wall is still to be seen at Town Barton
Farm, but whether this is a part of the enclosure in question seems
to be rather doubtful.
A short distance S. of Town Barton is Hayne Cross, and making
our way thither we turn R. to Hayne, whence a path will lead us to
Hayne Down, on which, about £ m. from the enclosures, we perceive
the weather-beaten Bowerman's Nose. This curiously-shaped pile,
which the imaginations of former antiquaries turned into a rock idol,
is really part of a tor, the other part having gone to ruin and now
forming the clatter below it. It consists of five layers of granite, and
rises to a height of nearly forty feet. In the Notes to Carrington's
Dartmoor, 1826, it is stated that a person named Bowerman lived at
Hound Tor, near by, in the Conqueror's time, by which we suppose
some sort of connection between that individual and the rock is sug-
gested. But it has also been thought that Bowerman may be a
corruption of vawr maen, the great stone. This derivation is, however,
open to the objection that the words would not fall in this order, but
that the great stone would be referred to by Celts as maen vawr, the noun
* Dr. Croker (The Eastern Escarpment of Dartmoor, 1851) refers
to this, and gives an extract relating to it from the parish register.
t This is stated by Dr. Croker to have been situated in a field
called Hookaway. He says it was partly destroyed in 1849, and
almost wholly so in 1850, only six stones being then left standing.
The above measurements were taken by the Rev. Samuel Rowe, who
visited the enclosure in 1828.
EXCURSION 23. BECKY FALL. 75
coining first, so that we might rather expect to find the term corrupted
to Minevower. But there is more than one " nose " on Dartmoor,
or " nawze," as the moormen say, as we shall see by-and-bye, and
most, if not all, of these names are modern. It is possible that this
of Bowerman's Nose may also be of no great antiquity, though we
cannot say that such is the case. About £ m. S.E. of Bowerman's
Nose is another tor (1,300 feet), the two being connected by a reave,
and near this is a kistvaen. A little W. of S. of the second tor, and
less than J m. from it, is a small group of hut circles, just inside a new-
take, but they present nothing remarkable.
[W. of Bowerman's Nose is a road running southward to Swine
Down Gate (R. 32, from Moreton). Should the visitor choose he may
follow this, and on passing through the gate turn I,, by the wall and
descend by Great Hound Tor Farm to Leighon Bridge, as in R. 25,
and so make his way to Bovey as therein directed.]
We shall return from the down to Hayne Cross, either by way of
Hayne or through Southcott, which latter lies under the southernmost
tor in an easterly direction. At the cross we keep straight on to Deal,
where we pass over the Hayne Brook, and then turning R. shall follow
the road to the Becky, which we reach immediately above where the
Hayne falls into it, and close to New Bridge. Here we cross the
last-named stream at a foot-bridge, and after passing over two others,
shall reach Becky Pall, a spot beloved by all visitors to this part of the
moor.
Although Becky Fall may not on ordinary occasions fully realize
the expectations of those who look to see a cascade, it can never be
disappointing, for the beauty of its surroundings more than com-
pensates for the lack of a full stream. But viewed at the time
of a summer freshet the fall is very fine, for then the little river, nut
brown and necked with foam, comes down with a roar, and dashes
impetuously over the rocks that fill its channel. From the top of the
falls to the bottom the drop is from 70 to 80 feet, and having rolled
and tumbled to the foot of this boulder-strewn steep, it runs along
merrily under Hound Tor Wood to meet the Bovey as it comes from
Lustlcigh Cleave. Then the united stream flows on between Rudge
Wood and Pullabrook Wood, and having passed under New Bridge
receives the Wray, and thence, knowing only the name of Bovey, the
waters run to the great plain of the Heathfield, where they are lost
in the Teign.
Returning to New Bridge we cross it, and thence follow the road
over Trendlebere Down, known as the Lower Terrace Drive. By the
side of this is a stone row with a small cairn at one end of it, but most
of the stones are fallen. The road will take us along the foot of
Yarner Wood, and here we have a fine view northward of Lustleigh
Cleave. Having passed the wood we reach a guide-post just beyond
which the road forks. The L. branch will take us to Five Wyches
Cross, about £ m. from Bovey Station ; the R. to Lower Down Cross,
\ m. from the former. Vide R. 25. On reaching the common
from New Bridge visitors at Ilsington and the vicinity should turn
R., and ascending to the Higher Terrace Drive make their way
S. to Yarner Wells. Instructions for reaching their destination from
that point are given at the end of Ex. 24. A notice of Yarner Wells
will be found in Ex. 25.
76 LUSTLEIGH AND BOVEY TRACEY DISTRICT.
Ex. 24. — Lower Down Cross, Leighon, Swine Down Gate, Jay's
Grave. [EXTENSION to Cripdon Down, Natsworthy, and Bonehilt
Down.} Hound Tor, Grea Tor, Hound Tor Combe, Black Hill, Yarner
Wells, 12% m. ; with Extension, 16 m. from and to Bovey Station.
Prom Lud Gate, 4^ m. less ; Ilsington, 2 m. less.
Setting out from the station the visitor will take the road to the
moor as in Ex. 23, but instead of turning off at Five Wyches Cross he
will continue straight up the hill to Lower Down Cross, nearly £ m.
further on, where he will turn R. by the school. In about i m. he
will reach a guide-post, where a road runs up the hill to the lower
Yarner Lodge. This he will leave on the L-, and striking into the
Lower Terrace Drive will speedily be led by it to the edge of Yarner
Wood. The drive, which is first carried along the lower part of the
wood, gradually ascends to a point where the hill on the L. becomes
very steep, and here, 300 feet above the guide-post, it leaves the
wood and turns towards the north. The visitor will now forsake the
road, and climb the hill L., his course being a trifle S. of W., and in a
little over \ m. will reach the Higher Terrace Drive at a point about
\ m. N. of Yarner Wells.
Visitors from Ilsington and the neighbourhood will reach this point
by way of the Wells, as directed in Ex. 25 and in S. Ex. 79.
Crossing the drive the rambler will bear W., with the summit of
Black Hill L., and soon afterwards bending R. will strike the road
running down to Leighon (S. Ex. 79), which will lead him past the house
to the bridge over the Becky Brook. Crossing it he will turn L- a few
yards below, and will soon come in sight of Great Hound Tor Farm.
This he will leave on the R., and pass up the steep and narrow lane
leading to Hound Tor Down, on reaching which he will obtain a remark-
ably fine view of Hound Tor, or rather of one part of it. The huge
rocks are seen cresting a height immediately above him, and sharply
defined against the sky. Proceeding upward, with the wall of some
enclosures R. and Hound Tor Down L-, the visitor will soon reach
Swine Down Gate, or as it is locally called, Swallaton Gate, close to
which is a cottage. Passing through this he will take the L. branch
of the road at the forks immediately inside. (The R. branch runs
over Hayne Down, passing very near to Bowerman's Nose, less than
i m. distant, Ex. 23, to Langstone, North Bovey, and Moreton, R. 53).
The road we now follow skirts Swine Down, the enclosures of Hedge
Barton being on the L- About J m. from the gate a path runs off L.
between the estate named and Heytree, and here we shall notice a
small mound, with a head and footstone. It is the burial place of a
suicide, and is known as Jay's Grave. Kitty Jay, as she used to be
spoken of, is said to have been a young unmarried woman, who
many years ago hanged herself in an outbuilding belonging to Canna,
a farm not far from the foot of East Down (S. Ex. 61), and in accord-
ance with the barbarous custom of the time, was interred at this
cross-way. About 1861 Mr. James Bryant, of Hedge Barton, caused
the grave to be opened, when human bones, including a skull, were
discovered, and declared on examination to be those of a female.
The date of the unfortunate woman's death is unknown, as no one
then remembered the occurrence. Mr. Bryant had the bones placed
in a box and re-interred on the spot where they had been found, and
raised the mound and set up the stones that now mark it.
EXCURSION 24. HONEYBAG AND CHINKWELL TORS. 77
From this point the road runs northward, with Cripdon Down R.
and the Heytree enclosures L., to Heytree Cross, Easdon Farm, Beetor
Cross, and Chagford, and has already been described in R. 53. Cripdon
Down, which presents nothing remarkable, is a small common to the
W. of Hayne Down. At its northern end, near Cripdon Farm, are a
few hut circles, and close to a path running across it to Blissmoor
Farm there is a small pool.
[EXTENSION to the eastern side of the Widecombe Valley. Instead of
returning direct to Hound Tor Down the visitor may extend his walk
so as to embrace the tors overlooking the valley of Widecombe, and for
this purpose will turn into the path running W. from Jay's Grave.
This, which is known as Heytree Common L,ane, will lead him by a
small plantation to Heytree Down, a common to the S. of Vogwell
Down, and on which there is a group of hut circles. These will be
found on its western side, near a track. Vogwell Down, which is even
smaller than Heytree, lies to the S. of the farm bearing the same name,
and is partly surrounded by plantations, S. Ex. 61, 62. Our way lies
along the southern verge of Heytree, with Hameldon rising before us,
to it S.W. corner, close to Natsworthy, and f- m. from the grave at the
crossway. Here we strike the road coming from Heytree Cross and
running southward to Widecombe, and shall turn into it L. Passing
Higher and Lower Natsworthy we follow this road for about \ m.
from the latter, when we shall turn L., between a plantation and some
enclosures, to the common. Above us are the rocks of Honeybag, to
which we shall climb, and thence make our way southward across Bone-
hill Down. The moor road runs on below the tors for a considerable
distance, joining the Ashburton road rather less than i^ m. S. of Swine
Down Gate, which shortly afterwards unites with the one leading from
Widecombe to Hemsworthy Gate. From Honeybag Tor we have a fine
view of the upper part of the Widecombe valley, and of Hameldon, a
wide extent of moorland and cultivated country being also visible.
The derivation of its name is not clear, but it may be worth while to note,
if only as a curious circumstance, its similarity to hunne-bed, a name
given to ancient burial monuments situated chiefly in the province of
Drenthe in the Netherlands. To the E. of the tor, and close to it, is
Goodlays Plantation, belonging to Hedge Barton, and the house is also
quite near. Proceeding southward we make our way to Chinkwell Tor,
the next height, 1,504 feet, before reaching which we pass one of a line
of manorial boundary stones, standing at a point called Slades Well.
Another boundary near by is known as L. Corner. On this part
of the down there are several hut circles, and on the tor we shall also
fine some reaves, which appear not unlike parts of rectangular
enclosures, while the summit is crowned with a dilapidated cairn,
much overgrown. From this lefty point we have another grand view ;
in fact, during our progress over the down we have around us a wonder-
ful panorama of rock and hill, of wood and fieid. Southward of
Chinkwell is another pile of rocks, to which the name of Sharp Tor
is sometimes given, and still further south is Bel Tor, 1,319 feet, on
which we shall find two or three rock basins. Near it a footpath runs
to Hedge Barton, and this we shall cross, as well as a road running
over the common towards Hound Tor Down, and also a continuation
of the one which we left below Honeybag. Soon we reach Bonehill
78 LUSTLEIGH AND BOVEY TRACEY DISTRICT.
Rocks, 1,227 feet, a fine pile near the southern end of Bonehill Down,
and having climbed it, and looked down upon Widecombe village,
nearly 500 feet below, we pass up the ascent eastward to the Chag-
ford and Ashburton road, to which a walk of a £ m. will bring us.
Here we turn L., and on passing the corner of the Hedge Barton
enclosures shall find ourselves on Hound Tor Down. The road runs
on for J m. to Swine Down Gate, with the wall of Hedge Down, which
is now enclosed, on the L., but we shall strike over the common R.
towards Hound Tor.]
Retracing our steps from Jay's Grave we shall again pass through
Swine Down Gate, and make our way to Hound Tor, which is close by.
This tor, certainly one of the finest on the moor, consists of three main
piles, rising to a considerable height above the ground. Around these
are many smaller masses of granite, the tor covering altogether a large
area. The view which the visitor will obtain from it will well repay
him for any trouble he may have taken to reach it. It is one of border
scenery, and of far-off farm lands. He does not look into the desolate
parts of the moor, the wildness of its recesses being altogether hidden
notwithstanding that a great extent of it is visible ; but he sees it
where its sterness is softened down to a mood more fitting to welcome
the woods and fields that press against its slopes. A short distance
S. of the tor is a ruined kistvaen. Little of it now remains, many of
the stones of which it consisted having been taken away about forty
years ago for road material. [Gems, Chap. X.]
Leaving Hound Tor we shall descend the side of the combe which
bears its name to Grea Tor, crossing on the way the path running S.
towards Holwell (T. 50). Grea Tor, which is not quite £ m. S.E. of
Hound Tor, is one of the most beautiful on the moor, and is draped
in a similar manner to Manaton Rocks and Okel Tor (Ex. 23, i).
Springing from the crevices of the grey rocks, that rise like a stately
tower from the turf, are ferns and whortleberry plants, and the graceful
quickbeam, partly shrouding them as perchance they did long ago
when a maiden walked with her lover here at eventide. Then a time
arrived when she came alone to the tor, for the youth had been called
away to the wars. Summer followed summer, and at length the
maiden's visits ceased, and the tor knew her no more. She rested
in the quiet churchyard of Manaton, while her lover slept in a foreign
land.
Passing down the Hound Tor Combe, we cross the Becky and
ascend the hill, with Smallacombe Rocks R. and Leighon Tor L., our
course being about E. The last-named pile is on the slope of Black
Hill, and over the southern edge of this we pass, and descending its
steep eastern side shall reach Yarner Wells, i m. from the combe.
From this point the return to Lud Gate will be by way of the Higher
Terrace Drive. If bound to Ilsington the visitor will leave this £ m.
beyond the Wells, and follow a narrow moor road branching from it L.
This will bring him to the guide-post below Owlacombe Barrow, where
he will take the road to the village, turning R. shortly before reaching
it at Narrowcombe. For Bovey the visitor will pass down the hill
N.E. from the Wells, with Yarner Wood close to him on the R. In
little over £ m. he will reach the Lower Terrace Drive, and turning into
this R. will reach the town as in the preceding excursion, or R. 25.
(The road route from Hound Tor is given at the end of R. 25).
EXCURSION 25. ILSINGTON COMMON. 79
Ex. 25. — Yarner Wells, Black Hill, Leighon Tor, Smallacombe
Rocks, Holwell Tor, Saddle Tor, Bag Tor Down, Hey Tor, n m. from
and to Bovey Station. From the Rock Hotel, the Moorland Hotel,
and Lud Gate, about 5 m. less ; Ilsington, 2} m. less.
The road leading upward from the station to the moor will be
followed as hi the preceding excursions, and as Yarner Wells is his first
point the visitor may again turn R. at Lower Down Cross, and make
his way by the Lower Terrace Drive to the foot of Yarner Wood, and
then, keeping this close on the L-, pass up the common to the Wells.
Or he may keep straight up the hill instead of turning at the Cross,
for another i^- m., when he will reach the common near Owlacombe.
Here he will leave the road, and turning R. strike over the edge of this
above Yarner Wood, and passing Yarner, the residence of Mr. Justice
Eve, will soon reach a narrow road, which a little further on runs into
the Higher Terrace Drive, about £ m. from the Wells. This is the path
referred to in Ex. 24 as being the direct one from the last-named point
to Ilsington.
Visitors from Ilsington reach the common soon after passing
Narrowcombe, as hi Ex. 23, and crossing the main road at the guide-
post on its verge, will take the narrower one just mentioned, which
runs up the hill in a north-westerly direction. On the R. is a line of
bondstones, which extends from near the guide-post to the Becky,
in Hound Tor Combe, one part of it marking the boundary between
the parishes of Ilsington and Bovey Tracey, the other the boundary
between Ilsington and Manaton. These stones, like most others that
serve a similar purpose on Dartmoor, bear names, the third which the
visitor will pass after leaving the road being called Prince Albert, and
the one next to it being generally referred to as Owlacombe Barrow,
though no tumulus now exists there. A little beyond this the visitor
will cross the line, and the next stone will therefore be on his left.
This is known as Old William, the one still further up the hill being
Old Jack. Beyond this is Victoria, and the next marks the point
where the parishes of Ilsington, Manaton, and Bovey Tracey meet, the
line between the last two running down the hill direct to Yarner
Wells, rather over £ m. distant, N.E. by N. The Ilsington and
Manaton line then runs on to the Prince of Wales bond-stone, then to
Hole Rock, and thence to the Becky. Above the point where it
strikes this little stream the latter becomes the boundary, and two
or three stones are found on its bank. There is one at Long Pool,
under Smallacombe Rocks, and another further up which is known
as Duke Stone. The line then runs on to Hawkeswell, near the head
of the Becky, and thence to Seven Lords' Land, which is noticed
further on (S. Ex. 82).
Visitors from the Rock Hotel, the Moorland Hotel, and from Lud Gate
will proceed to the Wells by way of the Higher Terrace Drive. Visitors
at the Hey Tor Hotel can also readily reach this drive via Lud Gate.
The tract of moorland lying to the S. of the line drawn from Owla-
combe to the Becky, and extending beyond Rippon Tor to the enclosures
of Mountsland and Horridge, is situated in the parish of Ilsington,
and its northern portion is usually spoken of as Ilsington Common.
This consists of two parts, the northernmost forming Hey Tor Down,
and that to the S. of it Bag Tor Down, and over these our present
excursion will extend. That part of the Ilsington common lands
8o LUSTLEIGH AND BOVEY TRACEY DISTRICT.
lying still further S. and comprising Horridge Common, on which
Rippon Tor is situated, and Mountsland Common are noticed in the
Ashburton Section, and to this visitors desirous of exploring that part
of the moor are referred.
At Yarner Wells, where is a cottage on the edge of the wood, a
little stream rises in a romantic hollow and runs down the steep hill-
side, one portion of it being conducted to the old Yarner Copper Mine,
and another to the fish pond near the lower Yarner lodge. The spot
lies immediately under the steep brow of Black Hill, the summit of
which, though only J m. distant, is some 300 feet higher, its elevation
being 1,339 feet. To this we shall now make our way, following a
N.W. course, and on reaching it shall find it to be crowned with a
tumulus. The view from this point is very fine, and embraces the
lower valley of the Becky with Manaton and Lustleigh Cleave, and in
another direction Hound Tor with the moorlands beyond. A little
W. of S. of the summit, and near Leighon Tor, is a group of three
tumuli, a number found together in many parts of the moor. S. of
the tor is the boundary line just described, which here runs from Prince
of Wales Stone westward to Hole Rock, and this we cross on our
way to Smallacombe Rocks, a large cluster of granite masses placed,
like Leighon Tor, on the slope forming the eastern side of Hound Tor
Combe. Above it, on the E., is a group of hut circles, some of them
being good examples, and on one of the outlying piles to the S.W. is a
rocking, or logan, stone, about which, however, there is nothing very
striking. Proceeding southward we pass the head of a rivulet which
falls into the Becky at Long Pool, and just beyond this shall notice a
small pound, near the branch of the tramway running to the deserted
granite quarry below. Crossing the tramway we direct our steps to
Holwell Tor, where the rock masses rise from an extensive clatter.
The lower part of this is not more than about 100 feet above the Becky,
and some 400 yards from it, but its higher part is twice that distance
from the stream. In the combe, just below, is Holwell Cottage, and
above it the farm of that name, while rising beyond this is Holwell
Down, over which the Chagford road runs from Hemsworthy Gate
to Hedge Barton. On the lower side of the clatter is a small pound
and some hut circles.
On the hill about f- m. S. of Holwell Tor is Saddle Tor, and to this
we shall now direct our steps, passing on our way another branch of
the disused granite tramway. This was constructed by Mr. George
Templer, of Stover, well known in the earlier part of the nineteenth
century for his scholarly attainments and his prowess in the hunting
field, as well as for his efforts to advance the interests of his county.
His father having previously constructed a canal from Newton Abbot to
Teigngrace, Mr. Templer conceived the idea of connecting it by means
of a tramway with the moor. He carried out his project, and the road
was opened in September, 1820. It is interesting as being the first
line constructed in Devon. It was very skilfully planned, and the
wagons ran on grooved blocks of granite, which took the place of rails.
Over it was conveyed the stone quarried near Hey Tor, and which was
shipped at Teignmouth. It was used for the arches of London Bridge,
and also for the columns of the British Museum library, as well as in
other important buildings. The quarries have, however, ceased to be
worked for many years. [Hundred Years, Chap. III.]
EXCURSION 25. THE LEMON. HEY TOR. Si
Saddle Tor is the central of the three frontier piles that form such
conspicuous objects when viewed from the neighbourhood of Kings-
teignton, the others being Rippon Tor, \ m. distant in a S.W. direction,
and Hey Tor, \ m. N.E. It overlooks the head of Hound Tor Combe,
which extends to the foot of the hill on which Rippon Tor is placed, a
distance of more than 2 m. above Leighon Bridge. Close to it a foot-
path climbs over the down, cutting off a bend in the road, which here
runs westward to Hemsworthy Gate, rather over \ m. away. Risdon
speaks of this pile as " a noted place called Saddletor," from the hills
near which he says the Loman, or as we now call it, the Lemon,
" fetcheth her fountain." The nearest stream to the tor is the Sig,
which rises on Bag Tor Down, about \ m. S. of it, and to this we shall
now make our way. It falls into the Lemon (the springs of which are
near Hey Tor) just below Sigford, and immediately after having
received the waters of the Langworthy Brook.
Descending the tor we cross the road and presently come upon
a track that branches from it further R. (T. 49), and this we shall
follow L. It will lead us along the bank of the stream, which flows
through a shallow hollow to Bag Tor Woods, but we desert it on
nearing the tor these are named after, and make our way to the
latter which we see on the I,. There is nothing remarkable in the rocks
themselves, but the spot is worth visiting for the picture of a retired
border nook there presented. The stream is lost in the woods below,
in one part of which is embosomed the ancient house called after the
little tor, and the former home of the Fords. This is noticed in S. Ex.
81. On leaving Bag Tor we strike into a track running close to it, and
following it N.W. shall be led over the side of Pinchaford Ball to the
road under Hey Tor, from which we may readily reach the rocks.
This well-known tor, rendered by its shape and situation the most
conspicuous on the moor, consists of two huge masses of rock rising
from the highest part of the down, and attains an elevation of 1,491
feet. The name it bears may be the Anglo-Saxon heah, meaning high,
or merely a corruption of the English word, as in the case of the tor
above Tavy Cleave, referred to in our description of the Lydford district
(Ex. 1 1 ). The moormen, in accordance with their habit of duplicating
the final syllable when naming the tors, usually speak of it as " Heyter
Tar," and as " Heyter Rocks," and this seems to have misled the
writer of a brief account of the moor published many years ago. He
calls it Athur Tor, or Solar Tor, deriving, we suppose, the latter name
from the former, and evidently regarding it as a place where sacrifices
were once offered to the sun-god. We may smile at this, but deriva-
tions no less far-fetched are suggested to-day. We have the case of
Yr ynys Tor, that is the island tor, offered as the probable original of
the thirteenth century Ernes torre, a name which it is sought to fasten
upon Yes Tor, for the reason that it looks like an island when its summit
is seen rising from a seat of mist. The Hundred of Hey Tor apparently
takes its name from these rocks, although they are not within it, and
it has been said that the Hundred Court was formerly held there,
but on what grounds we are unable to discover. In the north-eastern
rock steps have been cut, and these are furnished with an iron hand-
rail, so that it is easily ascended. Dr. Croker, writing in 1851, alludes
to this as " the unsightly stair step to enable the enervated and
pinguitudinous scions of humanity of this wonderful nineteenth century
82 LUSTLEIGH AND BOVEY TRACEY DISTRICT.
to gain its summit." The twentieth century visitor is, of course, of
quite a different stamp, but he will probably argue that since the steps
are cut he may as well use them. On the summit is a rock-basin, but
Nature has not been so happy in the formation of this one as in some
she has scooped out on the moor. The view from this lofty station is
magnificent, and if the visitor takes the trouble to climb to the top of
the south-western pile there will be nothing to obstruct it. A great
part of South Devon lies, as it were, at the feet of the beholder. The
estuary of the Teign, with the Channel off Teignmouth, is plainly
visible, a wide stretch of the latter, extending westward from Port-
land, being in view. Eastward the rock masses on the high land
in the neighbourhood of Hennock and Bridford are seen, and moor-
ward, with great Cosdon conspicuous to the N.W., the brown hills of
the ancient forest.
From Hey Tor we shall descend to the Moorland Hotel. Close to
this, southward, the road forks : L. to the Rock Hotel at Hey Tor
Vale; R. towards Pinchaford Farm, bearing L. at the cross roads
below it, to the Hey Tor Hotel and Ilsington. Bovey visitors will
follow the road running eastward, reaching the confines of the moor in
about i m. ; thence down the hill with Colehays Plantation R. to Lower
Down Cross and Five Wyches Cross, and on to the line near the station
— a descent of nearly a thousand feet.
Shorter Excursions.
S. Ex. 71. — John Cann's Rocks, Bot Tor Rock, and Hennock, 6 m.
The visitor, starting from Bovey, will leave the town by the Moreton
road, passing the old cross at Atway, and £ m. beyond will take the R.
branch at the forks, and enter Lower Aller Lane. A few hundred yards
further up turn R. at the cross-road, and soon the woods, on the verge
of which John Cann's Rocks are situated R., will be reached. With
these two traditions are connected. The road goes on to Furseleigh
Cross, near which some Roman coins were found in 1837. This point
may be reached from Bovey by turning into Fursleigh Lane imme-
diately opposite to Cross Cottage. The rocks are less than i£ m.
from the town.
For Bot Tor, or Bottor Rock, the visitor will follow the road run-
ing E. from Fursleigh Cross to Five Lanes, f m., when the first turning
L., close to the entrance to Hazelwood, must be taken. This is Beacon
Lane, and it will lead him direct to the rock, which will be seen on the
L. of the way. From this fine pile, the upper mass of which is some-
times referred to as Bettor's Nose, a wide and varied view is presented.
On one side is seen the valley of the Teign, and Chudleigh, with the
heights beyond ; and on the other a grand view of the hills of Dart-
moor. The rock attains an elevation of 800 feet, being about 700 feet
above Bovey Bridge near the Dolphin Hotel. Quite close to Bot Tor
farmhouse, just below, is a field called Brady Park, in which an
interesting object once existed. It consisted of a small pound, 77 feet
in diameter, with a wall about 3 feet high and 4 feet thick. The
hollows in the base of Bot Tor Rock were formerly the haunt of the
pixies, who have often been heard singing by the good folks of Hennock
when making their way homeward late at night. As the rambler will
Shorter Excursions from Bovey and Neighbourhood. 83
probably not choose such a time for his visit to the rock it is unlikely
that he will be so favoured, but since the locality does not lack warblers
of another kind it will doubtless be to the accompaniment of sounds
not less pleasant that he will continue his walk to that village. This
he will do by passing up Beacon Lane for a short distance, and entering
a gate on the R., whence a path will lead him along the verge of a little
common directly to it.
Hennock is a small village occupying a commanding situation,
being only about 200 feet below Bot Tor. Running W. from Hennock
is a road known as Bell Lane, and this we shall follow for \ m. to
Chericombe Head, where is a guide-post. We strike into Bowden
Lane S., and shortly afterwards turning L. shall pass on by Lower
Bowden to Furzeleigh Cross. Continuing straight down the hill with
Furzeleigh Plantation R., we soon reach the forks, where we branch R.
to Cross Cottage, or L. if our destination be that part of Bovey near
the church.
S. Ex. 72. — Shap Tor Rock, 4 m. Passing up by Cross Cottage
and Atway, we branch L. at the first forks, and speedily reach Woolley,
where we bend R. to the first milestone, at King's Cross. Then, still
following the Moreton Road R., for about 200 yards we arrive at a
point where a road runs L- to Plumley, and a footpath R. to North-
combe. It is recorded that several stone circles once existed at Plum-
ley, but they were destroyed about sixty years ago. They were
in all probability hut circles, and during the work of demolition eight
bronze celts were found, four of them being piled up against one of the
stones and the others lying near. Following the footpath to North-
combe, we shall make our way from that farm by another path, which
runs up the hill through Northcombe Copse to Shap Tor Down, which
we reach immediately below the rock. The view from this is
very fine, particularly towards Lustleigh. In returning from the
down we may follow the road leading from its S.E. corner to Shap
Tor Farm, and thence to the road under Higher Bowden, a point
reached in the return from Hennock, as described in the preceding
excursion, q.v. Here we turn R. to Furzeleigh Cross.
Shap Tor Rock is rather over i m. W. by N. of Bot Tor, and the
two may be very well included in a single excursion. From Shap Tor
the visitor will proceed as above, but when he reaches the road under
Higher Bowden will turn L., then R., to Chericombe Head, and
then make his way through Beacon Lane to the rock, which he will
see R.
S. Ex. 73. — Lustleigh and the Cleave, via Woolley and Ashwell
Lane, each 3^ m. The visitor will leave the town as in the preceding
excursion, but on reaching Woolley instead of turning R. will keep
straight on through Ashwell Lane, "which will lead him down to the
railway. On crossing this he will find that the road forks, the L.
branch being carried over the Bovey at Wilford Bridge and going up
to the road under Lower Down (Ex. 23), the R. one running up the
valley between the river and the railway. This we shall follow, and
soon after shall cross the latter again. About this point we have on
our L., but on the further side of the line, the confluence of the Wray
and the Bovey. A little way on we turn L., and once more crossing the
railway, shall reach Packsaddle Bridge, where we pass over the Wray
and immediately turn R. From? this point we proceed as in Ex. 23,
84 Shorter Excursions from Bovey and Neighbourhood.
which gives directions for reaching either Lustleigh Cleave or the
village.
(Visitors from Ilsington and the vicinity will reach this po;nt as Jn
Ex. 23).
If the rambler from Bovey is making his way to Lustleigh Station
he will not turn L. and cross the line to Packsaddle Bridge, but will keep
straight on past Knowle, and under Knowle Wood, to Wrayland, just
beyond which a road L. will lead him directly to it.
From Lustleigh several of the rock-piles on the high land eastward
of the Wray may be conveniently visited. By crossing the railway at
the bridge near the station and taking the second turning L. to Wray-
land Barn he will find a footpath that will lead him up to the Moreton
road under Tin Copse. It crosses the road, and running up through
the copse, skirts Tinhill Copse, immediately above which is Bullaton
Rock (i m.) To reach Elsford Rock (i£ m.), the first turning L. after
crossing the Lustleigh railway bridge must be followed. This will lead
the rambler to Kelly Cross, where is a guide-post (R. 31, 46), and here
he will turn L. Proceeding for a few score yards he will enter a lane R.,
and passing up through Greathill Copse, will soon reach Elsford Cot-
tages. Beyond these is Elsford Farm, and the road running from
Hennock via Poolmill Cross to Pepperdon Down. Elsford Rock is a
short distance W. of the farm. Between Elsford Farm and Pepperdon
Down a road runs R., i.e., N. by E., to Moor Barton. On this farm
several interesting objects were discovered many years ago in a large
cairn. On the tumulus being opened a kistvaen formed of six stones
was exposed ; there was also a copper spear head with two pegs by
which it has been secured to its staff, a glass bead, and a small amulet
of stone.
The road running S.E. from Kelly Cross goes on to Slade Cross,
J m., as described in R. 31, from which point Shap Tor Rock is about
J m. distant, E. by S., but there is no direct path to it. A road goes
N.E. from Slade Cross to Poolmill Cross, £ m., where the road to Hen-
nock, 2 m., runs R.
S. Ex. 74. — Sanduck and around the Combe (from Lustleigh), 4% m.
The Bishop's Stone near Lustleigh Station has already been noticed
(Ex. 23), and the probability of its having once served as the base of
a cross remarked upon. In addition to this there are three other
stone crosses in the parish [Crosses, Chap. XV.], and these the visitor
may see on a walk round the combe that runs up towards Sanduck
Grove. (The routes to Lustleigh from Bovey, Lud Gate, and Ilsington,
have already been given). Leaving the village by the school we pass
up by Mapstone and South Hill towards Higher Combe, i m., and
immediately before reaching the road leading to it L., in a small field
on the R. called Cross Park, is one of the objects referred to. It consists
of the upper part of a granite cross, and this is fixed on a rock. Passing
Higher Combe Cross (i.e., the branch road) L. and proceeding on our
way for about a mile we reach Sanduck, where the road bends L.
Here on the R. is another cross, which was discovered in 1901 in the
foundations of a farmhouse burned down in that year, and soon after
passing this we turn L., or southward. (About \ m. to the west is
Barnecourt, which Risdon speaks of as Barn House Barton, " the
ancient possession of a race of gentlemen so called.") Very soon we
Shorter Excursions from Bovey and Neighbourhood. 85
pass North Harton R., and then the road forks. Here we take the R.
branch, and skirt the combe on the opposite side of which we made
our way upward from the village. Less than | m. from the fork a
private road branches R. to South Harton (Ex. 23), and here we shall
find a cross built into the wall. It had been split to form a pair of
gateposts, but the parts were fitted together and it was placed here for
preservation. Still following the road we pass Hammerslake, and J m.
beyond turn L. to Ellimore, and descend to Lustleigh by the path by
which we left it on setting out for the cleave (Ex. 23).
S. Ex. 75. — Lustleigh Cleave from Hisley Wood upward (from
Lustleigh), 5 m. (Visitors from Bovey may reach the lower end of the
cleave as in Ex. 23 or S. Ex. 73, making their way first to the road
between New Bridge and Packsaddle Bridge (2^ m.) as therein directed.
The point for which visitors from the neighbourhood of Ilsington will first
make is a footbridge on the Becky a short distance above its confluence
with the Bovey. This they may reach either by way of Yarner Wells,
as described in S. Ex. 78, or by Riddiford Down. In the latter case
they will follow the instructions given in Ex. 23, but on reaching the
guide-post at the bottom of the slope under Yarner Wood will make
their way along the Lower Terrace Drive N.W. for a short distance,
and then leave it for the track that runs straight on down the hill to
the bridge. On crossing the Becky a path will lead them round Riddy
Hill to the Bovey, and upward to the footbridge under Wanford Wood.
This point in 2 m. from Yarner Wells).
Leaving Lustleigh at its southern end we shall make our way past
Rudge to the cross road reached in Ex. 23 between New Bridge and the
down, where we continue straight on to Lower Hisley. Higher Hisley
is close by on the R., and a short distance in advance are Gradner
Rocks, on the edge of Hisley Wood, which the rambler may visit, as
this will only necessitate his retracing his steps a little way. Prom
Lower Hisley a lane branches W. to Boveycombe, and this we shall
now follow past that cottage to the common. We are here quite near
to the Bovey at the lower end of the down, and shall follow the river
upward to its higher end. Passing Hisley Wood we have on the L.,
but on the further bank of the river, and consequently in the parish
of Manaton, as the latter here forms the boundary of Lustleigh, Wood-
ash, some of the trees of which cover the lower slope of the down on
this side as well. Above these is a footbridge, where a path coming
down from near Hammerslake crosses the stream and climbs the hill
to the hamlet of Water, a little over ^ m. from Manaton. On the
R., and high above us, is Sharp Tor. Passing up stream we skirt
Wanford Wood, to which succeeds Water Cleave, where is another
footbridge, just below the Foxes' Yard R. Still further up the stream
is Horsham Cleave, with the curious Horsham Steps, described in Ex. 23,
at the foot of the wooded steep. Above this is Neadon Cleave, between
the woods of which and the grove at Foxworthy the Bovey comes down
from Foxworthy Bridge. This and Little Silver, close by, are noticed
in the excursion just named, and if we make our way to those objects
we may regain the common by the road just above Foxworthy Farm.
If we do not turn aside we leave the Bovey just above the steps, and
passing Ravens' Tor on the slope shall strike northward, with the rocks
sometimes called Foxworthy Tor L., to Hunters' Tor, barely £ m.
86 Shorter Excursions from Bovey and Neighbourhood.
distant. Having examined this, and the camp close by, to which
Hunters' Path leads, we return by way of the summit of the ridge,
keeping quite near to the enclosures L. Soon we pass the fine entrance
to South Harton, where is a small plantation, and still keeping the wall
of the enclosed lands L. shall make our way by Harton Chest R. to
Sharp Tor (Ex. 23). Here we are near Hammerslake, which we passed
on our way from the stone cross at the gate of the private road to
South Harton to Ellimore (S. Ex. 74). Leaving Sharp Tor we make
for a corner of the down below it to the N.E., where a short lane will
take us to the road, where we turn R. and then L. to Ellimore, and
descend to Lustleigh (S. Ex. 74, Ex. 23).
S. Ex. 76. — Manaton via Pethybridge, Wanford Wood, and Water
(from Lustleigh), 5 m. The route to Manaton by way of Poxworthy
Bridge has been sketched in Ex. 23, but there are more direct ways of
reaching that village. The visitor may cross the Bovey at Horsham
Steps and pass through Horsham Farm, or he may cross at the foot-
bridge under the Foxes' Yard, and follow the path up through the wood
either to the same farm R., or to Water L. But the most direct route
is by way of the footbridge under Wanford Wood, and this he may
reach by going through Ellimore as in Ex. 23, and taking the L. path
on the S. side of Sharp Tor, which will lead him straight down the hill
to it, or he may gain the same point by way of Pethybridge. If he
decide upon the latter he will follow the lane to Ellimore for about a
couple of hundred yards and then turn into a path L., which will lead
him through the wood to the farm named. Just beyond this he will
enter on a road, and turning R. will keep straight on to the common.
(He is now at the point where he enters it in Ex. 23, if going direct to
the Cleave from New Bridge). The path across the down is now
followed to the bridge, £ m. distant, and immediately above the trees
that are seen at the foot of the down a little in advance (S. Ex. 75).
Crossing this the rambler will have the guidance of a path up the tree
covered steep, Woodash being L. and Wanford R., and this will bring
him to a narrow lane that wfil lead him to the hamlet of Water, £ m.
from Manaton.
The return routes to Lustleigh are here briefly sketched. Via
Foxworthy Bridge. Leaving the village green near its northern end
we follow the road for a short distance and take the second turning R.
This will lead to a footpath running across some fields, and down
through a wood, where it is rather steep in places, to the Bovey, close
to Little Silver, L. (Ex. 23). Cross Foxworthy Bridge and turn R. to
Foxworthy Mill, just beyond which is a green path leading up the side
of Lustleigh Cleave to Sharp Tor (S. Ex. 75). Via Horsham Steps.
Leave the village as before, but take the first turning R. to Horsham
Farm. From there a path runs down through the wood to the steps,
and is continued on the further side of the Bovey up the side of the
down to Sharp Tor (S. Ex. 75). Via Footbridge below the Foxes' Yard.
To Horsham Farm as in the preceding ; thence by the lane to Letchole
Plantation, and down by the narrow path through Water Cleave to
the bridge. The path then runs up the hill, with the Foxes' Yard L.,
to Sharp Tor (S. Ex. 75). To reach this bridge by way of Water the
visitor will leave Manaton at the southern end of the green, where he
will turn L. by Town Barton, again branching L. at Wrayland to the
Shorter Excursions from Bovey and Neighbourhood. 87
hamlet, close to which is the plantation named above. Via Footbridge
below Wanford Wood. To Water as above. Then, instead of taking
the path through Letchole Plantation, follow the lane down the hill
to Wanford Wood, through which, with Woodash R., the footpath
alluded to in the route just given from Lustleigh descends to the Bovey.
On crossing that stream pass up the hill, and at the first forks of the
green path take the R. branch and follow it to the road branching
from, the upper corner of the down. Take the second turning L. (only
about 300 yards on) to Pethybridge, from which farm a path leads to
Lustleigh as before described.
S. Ex. 77. — Manaton to North Bovey, 2 m. distant ; and Lustleigh
to North Bovey, 3f- m. distant. The reverse route (to Manaton) has
already been given (S. Ex. 63). We leave the village near the northern
end of the green, the rectory grounds being L. Soon after passing the
second turning R., which leads down to Foxworthy Bridge, we reach
a turning L., where a path runs across a little common below Manaton
Rocks. We keep near to the enclosures R., and presently shall be
led between these to a field, across which the path runs to the road at
Langstone (R. 32, 53). This point may also be reached by following
the path along the S. side of the churchyard to a road which will bring
us to Langstone Cross (R. 32, 53), where we turn R.
From Langstone we proceed by the road to Lower Luckdon, to
which place we may also make our way by another route. This,
which will increase the distance a little, will take us down the hill from
Manaton (instead of turning L. to the little common), near the bottom
of which a lane runs R. to Little Silver and Foxworthy Bridge (Ex. 23),
but we turn L. to Neadon. Here, on the L. of the way, we pass an
ancient building now belonging to the farm, but which is said to have
formerly been a chapel. On passing this we strike a road running
R. to Barnecourt (S. Ex. 74) and Wray Barton, the latter being on
the road from Bovey to Moreton (R. 31, 46). We turn neither R. nor
L., but crossing the road enter on a path that will take us across three
fields to Lower Luckdon. From this place we keep straight on, with
Higher Luckdon L. (R. 32, 53) to Aller, soon after passing which we
cross the Bovey, and reach our destination.
Lustleigh to North Bovey via Little Silver, 3f m. distant. This is a
most delightful ramble. The visitor will make his way by Ellimore to
Sharp Tor, and thence down the side of the cleave to Foxworthy
Bridge, as described in Ex. 23. Crossing the bridge he will turn R.
by the charming Little Silver, whence a walk of about % m. along the
edge of the wood will bring him to the road leading to Neadon, just
where it comes down L. from Manaton. From this point the directions
are given above.
In returning to Lustleigh the path from North Bovey past Neadon,
as described in S. Ex. 63, must be followed, when the rambler, instead
of turning up the hill R. to Manaton, will keep onward to Little Silver,
from which point the way over the down to Sharp Tor and Ellimore is
shown in S. Ex. 76, 75.
S. Ex. 78. — Round Yarner Wood. Bovey Station, 7^ m. ; Lud
Gate, s£ m. ; Ilsington, 6f m. A ramble round Yarner Wood and
over Trendlebere Down, besides disclosing many other beauties, will
88 Shorter Excursions from Bovey and Neighbourhood.
also afford a fine view of Lustleigh Cleave. In setting out from Bovey
the road to the moor will be followed as in Ex. 23. On leaving the
railway the visitor first passes Parke, where in the early years of the
nineteenth century lived the noted George Hunt Clapp, better known as
" Councillor " Clapp. We remember hearing many stories in our
younger days of the strange sights said to have been witnessed in
the grounds on moonlight nights. Horses without heads, the gossips
said, used to haunt Parke Walk, and startling sounds were heard there
by the frightened peasant. Continuing on our way upward we shall
shortly pass Five Wyches Cross (Ex. 23), and Lower Down Cross
(Ex. 24), where the Hey Tor tramroad, noticed in Ex. 25, crossed the
road. On our L. is Colehays Plantation, which extends up the hill
for about a mile, and soon after passing the head of this we enter
upon the moor. Here we turn R. as in Ex. 25, our way lying along
the higher side of Yarner, which we have already referred to as being
the residence of Mr. Justice Eve. The judge is a lover of Dartmoor,
and his great hobby is " caravaning " upon it. When on one of his
tours amid its hills he lives and sleeps in the van, and does his own
cooking. No better way of seeing the moor can be imagined, provided
it is combined with bog-trotting.
Having reached Yarner Wells, to which point visitors around
Ilsington will make their way as described in Ex. 25, we shall turn
down the hill R., gradually leaving Yarner Wood as we descend.
Here we have a good view of Lustleigh Cleave, beyond the wooded
Hound Tor Ridge. Our way takes us over East Down, which extends
to the Becky, Trendlebere Down being on our R. under Yarner Wood.
On reaching the stream, which we should do not far from the camp on
Water Hill (Ex. 23), marked by Water Rock, we turn R., and trace its
course downward. On the further bank is Hound Tor Wood, the
peninsulated ridge which it covers terminating in the heathery Riddy
Hill. At the foot of this the Becky falls into the Bovey, the scene of
their meeting being of the most romantic character. Just above it,
on the further bank, are Gradner Rocks (S. Ex. 75) rising on the higher
edge of Hisley Wood. Below this the united stream makes a bend
and then flows on between Rudge Wood L., and Pullabrook Wood R.,
to its confluence with the Wray. Our path will take us past the weir
to the verge of the last-named wood, and here we shall find ourselves
on Reddiford Down, and just below the northern edge of Yarner
Wood. This wood, as we have already seen, is situated on the side
of a steep hill, and is in view from the railway between Bovey and
Lustleigh. It is about i£ m. from E. to W., and J m. from N. to S.
Yarner Copper Mine, now disused, is near its S.E. corner, and the
grounds of Yarner are on its southern, or higher, side. One elevated
point in it is known as Yarner Beacon. Following the road over
Reddiford Down we shall soon reach the guide-post, and here the
visitor who is returning to Bovey will continue onward to the forks,
-where he will either branch L. to Five Wyches Cross, or keep straight
on along the edge of Lower Down, which is really a part of Reddiford
Down, to Lower Down Cross, from either of which points he will turn
L. down the hill (R. 25). If bound for Ilsington or neighbourhood the
visitor will strike into a footpath at the guide-post running up over
the down, which will bring him to the road near the higher end of
Colehays Plantation. Passing the forks where a road branches R. to
Shorter Excursions from Bovey and Neighbourhood. 89
Yarner, he will soon enter on the moor, and on reaching the guide-
post the road L. must be taken for Ilsington. (In following this take
either the first turning R., for Trumpeter and the Hey Tor Hotel, or the
second R. at Narrowcombe for the village). For Lud Gate and the
Mocrland Hotel keep straight on with the common R.
S. Ex. 79. — Becky Fall and Manaton ; branch road to Leighon.
Bovey Station (to Fall and back), 9 m. ; Lud Gate, 5 m. ; Ilsington,
7£ m. ; Manaton, i m. beyond the Becky. From Bovey the road to
Lower Down Cross is followed as in Ex. 24 and R. 45. There turn R.
into the Lower Terrace Drive, which, passing under Yarner Wood,
leads direct to New Bridge, about £ m. above the fall (Ex. 23). From
Hey Tor Vale visitors simply follow the Higher Terrace Drive to Becky-
ford Bridge, which is only a short distance above New Bridge (Becky),
while those from Ilsington, if not proceeding via Lud Gate, will follow
the instructions given in Ex. 25, and reaching the down either by way
of Trumpetor or Narrowcombe, will strike over it and join the drive
at Yarner Wells. The Manaton road runs up the hill from the bridges
over the Becky to the cross road between Water R. and Deal L., and
passing Wrayland enters the village by Town Barton (vide Ex. 23).
The name of the little river appears not only in the fall and the higher
bridge, but also in Beckyford Farm, Becky Cottage, and in Beckhams,
the latter being on the edge of Deal Copse, in which the fall is situated.
Visitors will find the walk to Becky Fall by the Higher Terrace Drive,
making the return by the Lower Drive, or vice versa, a very enjoyable
one. A return route is given in Ex. 23.
Leighon Bridge. About | m. N. of Yarner Wells a road branches
westward from the Higher Terrace Drive, under Black Hill, and leads
down through Leighon to the Becky, which it crosses at Leighon Bridge
(R. 45). This, which is a clapper of one opening and furnished with
parapets, is situated in the midst of charming surroundings. Just
below it the road turns L. to Hound Tor Down (Ex. 24), and by follow-
ing this for a short distance, and then turning R. at Great Hound Tor
Farm, the rambler will be led past Southcott to Hayne Cross, from
which point the return route by way of Becky Fall is given in Ex. 23.
The homeward route direct from Leighon Bridge will be found at the
end of R. 25. The bridge is about ij m. from Yarner Wells by the
road.
S. Ex. 80. — Hey Tor, Pinchaford Ball, and Hey Tor Vale. Bovey
Station, 9 m. ; Lud Gate, 2^ m. ; Ilsington, over Pinchaford Ball
3| m. Hey Tor is 3f m. from Bovey Station, and is approached
by the road described 'in Ex. 25 and S. Ex. 78, the points being
Five Wyches Cross (take the L. fork) ; Lower Down Cross (straight
up the hill, leaving the road running by the school R.) ; the forks
nearly i m. further up the hill (take the L. branch, and the down
will be reached rather over £ m. on). The road now skirts this with
the enclosures close on the L., and passing Shot Plantation, also on
that side, reaches the turning L. to Hey Tor Vale. Here, at the Moor-
land Hotel, the Dartmoor coaches always stop to afford those who may
desire to visit the tor an opportunity of doing so. A broad green path
leads to the rocks from the road close to the hotel.
Visitors from Ilsington will reach this point by turning R. at the
90 Shorter Excursions from Bovey and Neighbourhood.
cross \ m. W. of the Hey Tor Hotel, and passing up the hill, and taking
the I/, branch of the road at the forks above Pinchaford. (The R.
branch also leads to it, by way of Hey Tor Vale). But a much
shorter way to Hey Tor is to keep straight on instead of turning up the
hill R. at the cross referred to, when a walk of a few hundred yards
through a narrow stroll will bring the visitor to the common. From
this point Hey Tor is only £ m. distant, W.N.W.
For a description of the tor the visitor is referred to Ex. 25.
Descending the southern slope of the hill on which Hey Tor is
situated, the road is speedily reached just where it makes a bend, and
here a track runs from it southward (T. 49). This the rambler may
follow to Bag Tor, the route being the reverse of that sketched in
Ex. 25, but should he not wish to extend his walk that far he will see
it as he crosses Pinchaford Ball. This he will do by leaving the track
near some hut circles R., about J m. from the road, and striking eastward.
Below him R., in the little valley of the Sig, and near the boggy spot
called Bag Tor Mires, is the tor. He also looks down upon Mill Wood,
one part of which is known as Crownley Parks, and upon Hinds Ground
near it. Descending the eastern side of the ball he enters the narrow
stroll below Pinchaford Farm mentioned ante. From this point the
Ilsington road turns down R., while a footpath L. will lead to the
Pinchaford lane, which comes from the road running up to the common.
Just above this is the junction before referred to, and if the visitor chooses
to bear R. he will pass through Hey Tor Vale, as we have already
stated. When the Hey Tor quarries ceased to be worked the season
of prosperity enjoyed by this little hamlet came to an end. But of
late there has been some renewal of this, though not, as formerly in
consequence of stone being sent away from the neighbourhood, but
because of the fact that it is there. The Rock Hotel at Hey Tor Vale
bears a name that will constantly remind the visitor of this. The
down is within £ m. of the hamlet.
S. Ex. 81. — Ilsington. (T.\ m. distant from Bovey Tracey Station ;
with route to Ashburton, 5^ m. further). Occupying an elevated and
pleasant situation on the border of the moor, and placed in the midst of
delightful scenery, the village of Ilsington has naturally grown into
favour with the visitor, and since the opening of the Hey Tor Hotel has
become a much frequented summer resort. From Bovey Tracey Station
the rambler will make his way towards the town, having Pludda on
his R., but only for a short distance. Immediately opposite to the
Dolphin Hotel the Newton Abbot road runs S., and into this he will
turn. Passing the first branch, a few score yards on R., he will strike
into the second on that side, and will very soon reach Ashburton
Bridge, where the road is carried over the railway. Just beyond this
it forks, and here he will take the R. branch and keep straight on.
The turning R. leads to Challabrook, and near this the Hey Tor tram-
road (Ex. 25) crossed the road. The next junction is known as Brimley
Corner, where again the R. branch must be followed past Chapel Cross,
which is marked by a guide-post, and where a road comes down from
Chapel Farm and Lower Down Cross (Ex. 24). William Ellis, who
several years ago wrote an interesting account of various places in
the neighbourhood of Bovey, says that the farm obtained its name
from the former existence of a chapel here. He states that all
Shorter Excursions from Bovey and Neighbourhood. 91
traces of the building had been lost, but that during the formation
of a leat some stones were found that were thought to have belonged
to it. The chapel stood in a lovely little dell through which ran a
sparkling stream. Passing upward through Brimley Lane the rambler
will speedily arrive at Lower Brimley, beyond which he will pass
through Higher Brimley, and reach Woodhouse Cross, where is a
guide-post. Here a road comes down R. from Narrowcombe and the
common, and descends the hill towards the Newton Abbot road. The
rambler will turn neither R. nor L., but continue onward, passing
Woodhouse R., to the village.
The village of Ilsington is small, and like Widecombe, Manaton,
Shaugh, and others in the Dartmoor borderland, was once the scene
of a remarkable accident, not, however, resulting from the warring of
the elements, but from the banging of a gate ! On the i 7th September,
1639, the day being Tuesday, a woman passed through the west gate
of the churchyard, over which was an old building that had not long
before been converted into a schoolroom, and in which a number of
scholars were gathered. The gate was a heavy one, and the woman,
letting it swing back to close of itself, went on her way. She had not
gone half-a-dozen yards before the building collapsed, but strange to
relate not only were no lives lost, but the injuries sustained were mostly
trifling. An account of the accident may be seen hi the register, to-
gether with the names of those who were in the room at the tune.
The church is chiefly Perpendicular. In the churchyard is the
seventeenth century tomb of Thomas Ford, of Sigford, on which is a
curious Latin chronogram, giving the date of his death. The Fords
were settled very early in the parish, one of that family being John
Ford, the dramatist, and the friend and acquaintance of most of the
poets of his day.
In the latter part of the seventeenth century Bag Tor was in the
possession of Sir Henry Ford, who was knighted by Charles II., in whose
reign he was twice Secretary of State hi Ireland. The property was
sold by him to Mr. Tothill, from whose descendants it was afterwards
purchased by John, first Lord Ashburton. East of the church, and
on the R. of the road leading up to Narrowcombe, are some vestiges
of a manor house built by Sir Henry, but which, it is said, was never
completed. On a part of the site of this the present school is built.
The manor of Ilsington was early in the possession of the Beaumonts,
and afterwards belonged to the Dinhams. At the death, hi 1477, of
John, Lord Dynham, it was divided among his representatives, and
portions of it passing through the Arundefis afterwards became the
property of the Fords. The Act for enclosing Ilsington Common was
obtained in 1809.
According to Vicars the Royalist soldiers after their defeat at
Bovey, in January, 1646, retreated to Ilsington, and sought refuge
in the church. They were, however, pursued by Cromwell, and were
forced to quit the building.
Natives of this parish were formerly known as Ilsington Grey-
backs. In 1727 William Candy left some lands to trustees, with
directions that the rents should be applied to the purchase of clothes
for men who had served their apprenticeship to farmers hi the parish.
The clothes were made of a cloth known as Parson's Grey, the shirt
being of a rough material called Dowlais, and so the name of Greyback
92 Shorter Excursions from Bovey and Neighbourhood.
became attached to an Ilsington man. A copy of Mr. Candy's will
hangs in Ilsington Church. In 1663 Miss Jane Ford, of Bag Tor. left
property to be invested for the purpose of schooling poor children,
and in 1804 Mr. Hale, of lingsdon, left money for the benefit of the
aged poor.
Bag Tor is i£ m. from Ilsington, and is situated on the road run-
ning to Ashburton via Halshanger Cross. From the church the way
lies past the vicarage and the hotel to Loothorn Cross, where the L.,
or S., road is followed to the Wesleyan burial ground, which point may
also be reached by the lower road from the village. This must be kept
L., and also Honeywell, which is passed immediately after. The next
point is Burchanger Cross, where the Bag Tor road runs straight on,
and then winds round a little piece of common below Burchanger
Brake, a wood being on the other side of it. Very speedily it drops
down to the Lemon, which it crosses in one of the most delightful
nooks on the borders of Dartmoor. [Gems, Chap. XI.] Immediately
below the bridge is the picturesque Bag Tor Mill, and above it the
little river comes down through a wooded hollow from the moor. (A
path running through Crownley Parks will lead the rambler thither,
and he will reach it below Pinchaford Ball, with Bag Tor L. S. Ex. 80).
£ m. further on, where a road branches L. to Sigford, is the entrance
to Bag Tor R., which is pleasantly placed on the edge of Bag Tor
Wood. This point is also reached in our rambles from Ashburton, q.v.
The road to that town runs on to Westabrook, where it crosses the Sig,
and thence to the hamlet of Mountsland, just beyond which it is
carried over the Langworthy Brook. Then passing Halshanger R.,
it reaches Halshanger Cross, where the Newton Abbot road comes up
L., or from the E., and goes on by Cold East Cross to Pudsham Down
and Cockingford Mill, and from there over Bittleford Down to Cator
and Grendon Cot, and the forest. (These places are noticed in Ex.
26, R. 42 and Ex. 44). The Ashburton road runs on to Rushlade
and down to the Yeo, which river it reaches under Whiddon Wood,
and bears it company through the narrow valley nearly to Rewlea
Cross. From this point the road goes southward to the town, the
centre of which is about £ m. distant. (For a fuller notice of the
route from Rushlade onward see the end of Ex. 26 ; the return route
will be found partly at the beginning of Ex. 26, and partly in S. Ex. 89.)
The roads from Ilsington to the moor have all been noticed in
our excursions. One runs W. from Loothorn Cross direct to Pincha-
for Ball (S. Ex. 80) ; another branches from this shortly before the
down is reached, and goes northward to Lud Gate ; a third goes N.
from Loothorn Cross through Trumpeter and Middlecott or Smalla-
combe, being joined at the former place by one leaving the village
by the lane opposite to the vicarage, and running up by the Sanctuary
field ; and a fourth goes E. of the church northward to Narrow-
combe.
The route to Bovey Tracey having already been given the reverse
way it is only necessary to name the chief points here. The road runs
eastward from the village, S. of the church, to Woodhouse Cross, and
thence to Higher Brimley and Lower Brimley. From this hamlet
the direction is E. by N. The town is reached soon after the railway
is crossed at Ashburton Bridge.
Shorter Excursions from Bovey and Neighbourhood.
93
S. Ex. 82. — Widecombe-in-the-Moor via Hemsworthy Gate. (7 m.
from Bovey Tracey Station). The way lies up the hill to Hey Tor
Down and the turning L. to Hey Tor Vale (3^ m.), aiivl j« described in
Ex. 25, and S. Ex. 78. The road is then followed to Hemsworthy Gate,
and this part of the route may be reached by visitors from Ilsington
either by way of the first-named place or by striking westward over
Pinchaford Ball (S. Ex. 80). The road first ascends towards Hey
Tor, the rocks rising on the R. (Ex. 25, S. Ex. 80), on the L. being
Pinchaford Ball, with Bag Tor in the hollow below it, near Mill Wood
(Ex. 25). It then leads us over some level ground, where the
turf is exceptionally smooth, towards Saddle Tor, over which we may
make our way by the footpath that we shall see branching R. (Ex. 25).
In advance is the lofty Rippon Tor, noticed in Ex. 26, and as we draw
nearer to it we shall not fail to observe the reave running down the
N.W. side of the hill. Eastward the view of the country beyond
Newton and Kingsteignton, with the estuary of the Teign, is remark-
ably fine. Between Saddle Tor and Hemsworthy Gate the road
skirts the head of Hound Tor Combe. Hound Tor itself is 2 m. distant,
but the long combe to which it gives name, and which extends upward
from near Becky Fall, has its termination here. Standing near the
scanty vestiges of the old Hemsworthy Mine the rambler is within a
very short distance of the source of the Becky, and as he looks down
the combe, beyond the lower end of which the fine hill forming the
eastern side of Lustleigh Cleave is seen to great advantage, his view
embraces the whole course of the stream. Immediately below, on the
R. bank of it, is Hemsworthy Farm, and beyond this, lining the whole
side of the valley, the grey clatters that have fallen from the tors
that rise half-ruined from the slope, while above them Hey Tor,
placed in a more secure situation, proudly uplifts his solid granite
bosses, as yet hardly touched by the hand of Time. On the L., or W.,
side of the Combe is Hoi well, with Haresfoot Mires below it, and
beyond it, on Holwell Down, the little pile sometimes known as Holwell
Rocks. Passing onward we arrive at Hemsworthy Gate, or White
Gate, as it is often called locally, where we find ourselves on the Chag-
ford and Ashburton road (R. 32, Ex. 26). About 200 yards N. of the
gate, and quite close to the wall is a hut circle bearing the name of
Seven Lords' Land, being, it is said, a bondmark of seven manors.
Hey Tor. Saddle Tor.
Smallacombe Rocks. Holwell Tor.
FROM HOLWELL DOWN, LOOKING E.
94
Shorter Excursions from Bovey and Neighbourhood.
[Visitors in the Ilsington neighbourhood will find the walk round
Hound Tor Combe a very enjoyable one. Making their way first to Hems-
worthy Gate they will follow the Chagford road over Holwell Down as
in R. 53, and on reaching the entrance to Hedge Barton strike R.
across the common to Hound Tor. Then descending the hill on the N.
side of the tor the road to Leighon and Yarner Wells will be struck,
and this must then be followed as described in R. 25. The walk may
be extended from Hound Tor Farm so as to embrace Becky Fall and
Becky Ford, from which latter spot the Higher Terrace Drive runs
to the Wells and L,ud Brook. Vide end of Ex. 23, 24.]
Rippon Tor.
The Nutcracker.
FROM HOLWELL DOWN, LOOKING S.
The rambler will turn R., or N.W. at Hemsworthy Gate (5} m.
fromJBovey Station), and following the Chagford road for £ m. wifl
branch I/, at the guide-post. A walk of a few score yards will bring
him to the top of Widecombe Hill, where Tom Pearse found his old
grey mare " makin' 'er weel," and here a wide view of the forest is
disclosed. More than 500 feet below, but as yet unseen, and a mile
away, is the East Webburn. It flows almost in the shadow of the
Cathedral of the Moor, which we now begin to discern, and is there
spanned by Northway Bridge. To this the rambler will now descend,
and having crossed it will speedily enter Widecombe Town.
Hameldon.
Chinkwell
Tor.
FROM HALF-WAY UP WIDECOMBE HILL, LOOKING N.
EXCURSIONS FROM WIDECOMBE. 95
Excursions from Widecombe.
S. Ex. 83. — Bonehill Down, 4 m. ; the way by Widecombe Hill
is further. Having in our notice of Hameldon and the Widecombe
valley described the tors on the down that form the E. side of the
northern end of the latter, it will not now be necessary to do more
than describe the routes by which they may be reached from the
village. Of these there is a choice of three. The rambler may either
make his way by the road up the valley to the turning below Isaford ;
he may go by Widecombe Hill ; or by the farms that take their name
from the down on which the tors stand. The first route will lead
him by the manor house, f- m. from the village, and soon after
passing this he will cross the Webburn.* Beyond the bridge are
Stouts Cottages, near which a path runs through the plantation R. to
the common, and further up is the entrance to Bag Park, L. Above
this, on the same side, a road leads to Pitton, and 300 yards on is the
turning R. to the down under Honeybag Tor. From this point,
which is ii m. from Widecombe Green, the route will be as sketched
in the Extension to R. 24. This will take the rambler along the range
of tors to the road S. of Bel Tor, by which he may make his way through
Bonehill, R., direct to the village ; or he may continue S. to Bonehill
Rocks, and thence steering the same course reach Widecombe Hill.
The second route will take him across the green on the N. side of
the church to Northway Bridge, and thence up Widecombe Hill for
rather over \ m., when having passed the enclosures he will turn L.
over the common to Bonehill Rocks, \ m. off. Just beyond this group
the road comes up L. from the Bonehill farms, and he will find himself
on the route now to be described.
The third route, which is the best, will lead the rambler to North-
way Bridge, but instead of passing over it he will turn L. and cross the
Webburn a little higher up. From this point the verge of Bonehill
Down is f- m. distant, and '400 feet above the stream. The road runs
up through the Bonehill farms, and on the common being reached the
rambler will be close to the rocks bearing that name. The road R. goes
on to the top of Widecombe Hill ; the track running straight up over
the down goes to the corner of Hedge Down where it joins the Chagford
road ; the footpath I,, of it leads to Hedge Barton ; and the track L.
runs to the turning below Isaford, with a branch path to the road near
Stouts Cottages.
* This is Widecombe Town Manor. There are five others in the
parish : Natsworthy, Dunstone, Blackslade, Blackaton, and Spitch-
wick.
7?^ , v^>ti*V . . /§Oy
96 EXCURSIONS FROM WIDECOMBE.
Our way will now lie N. to Bel Tor, on which there are some rock
basins, and thence to Sharp Tor, Chinkwell, and Moneybag, the ramble
being the reverse of that described in Ex. 24. On the R. of the
visitor, as he proceeds northward, is Hedge Barton ; on the L.
the Widecombe valley ; and before him, and beyond the range he
is traversing, the commons of Heytree, Vogwell, and Cripdon (Ex. 24),
backed by the lofty East Down (S. Ex. 61).
From Honeybag Tor the rambler will descend the western side of the
hill to the track, and so reach the lane at the turning below Isaford
(Ex. 24). [From this point Higher Natsworthy is f m. distant ;
Berry Pound (via Natsworthy) under i£ m. ; Heytree Cross, if m.]
Turning L. when the lane is reached the visitor will make his way
down the valley to the village.
[The visitor may extend this excursion by going up the valley to
Higher Natsworthy, and returning by way of the side of Hameldon,
taking care to avoid coal mires. A path runs from Natsworthy in a
south-easterly direction nearly to Hameldon Beacon, and this the
rambler will follow for about £ m., when he will leave it and strike S.
His way will now lie along the slope of the great hill, about £ m.
above Bagpark Plantation. A walk of rather over i m. will bring him
to the enclosures of Kingshead, with those belonging to the manor
house below on the L. A path across one of them will lead to the
steep lane that comes down from Kingshead, by which he will descend
to the road £ m. from Widecombe Church. This extension will add
nearly 2 m. to the ramble.]
S. Ex. 84. — Hameldon Beacon and Natsworthy, 5^ m. WITH
EXTENSION to Hameldon Cross and Grim's Pound,- 7 m. Leaving the
green by the road running up the valley, the rambler will pass the first
turning L. (the old Church Way, T. 76) and take the next on that side,
which is only a very short distance further on. This is the steep lane
by which the visitor was directed to descend from the common in the
preceding excursion. Passing upward the path there referred to will
be seen R., and turning into this, with Kingshead Farm higher up on
the L., he will cross the field and reach the down. From this point
Hameldon Beacon is about i m. distant, or if m. from the village.
The course to be steered is N.W. by N., and when the rambler is nearing
the summit of the hill he will come in sight of the wall of Blackaton
Down. This he will keep L., and follow it to the Beacon, which has
been already described in the section on Hameldon.
[If it be desired to extend this ramble to Hameldon Cross, or
Grim's Pound, the wall must be followed to Two Barrows, whence the
course will be northward to Single Barrow and Broad- Barrow, from
which last-named tumulus Hameldon Cross is only a very short dis-
tance N.W. The whole of these objects, and their bearings, are
noticed in the section just referred to. Hameldon Tor is N.N.W.
of the cross, and less than | m. away. From this pile the rambler
will look down upon Grim's Pound, which, by this route, the most
direct one, is 3 m. from Widecombe. A description of Grim's Pound
is given in Ex. 22, and its surroundings are also noticed in S. Ex. 59,
60, and 62. From the pound the return to Widecombe will be by
way of Berry Pound and Natsworthy, the way being described in S.
Ex. 60.]
EXCURSIONS FROM WIDECOMBE. 97
To return from Hameldon Beacon via Natsworthy the rambler
must steer N.E. by E., and should strike the path mentioned in the
preceding excursion as running from that place towards the beacon.
At Natsworthy the road to the village is reached. (Extension Ex. 24.
The road below it is described the reverse way at the beginning of
S. Ex. 83).
S. Ex. 85. — Blackaton Down, Challacombe, Grendon Bridge, Lower
Blackaton, Langworthy, 6 m. Our way will first take us over the ridge
southward of Hameldon Beacon to the top of Gore Hill, to which point
we shall have the guidance of the Church Way (T. 76). This ancient
path commences at what is now known as Church Lane, the first turning
on the L. from the road leading up the Widecombe valley from the
green. We follow it to the down, the point where it emerges on this
being appropriately named Church Lane Head, and thence north-
westward across the turf as in R. 42, C. q.v. Passing the Hatchwell
branch L-, and Kingshead Corner R., we speedily reach Gore Hill.
Here we leave the old path to the forest, and follow the one that goes
on to Challacombe (T. 47). We do not therefore descend Gore Hill,
but continue our north-westerly course, with the enclosures L. Very
soon we enter upon Blackaton Down, the wall of which comes down
the steep side of the common from Hameldon Beacon. Our path is
a well-defined one, and runs along the higher part of the small irregular
enclosures that here creep up the steep from the valley of the Broad-
ford Brook. £ m. on we reach another wall of Blackaton Down — the
one that descends from Two Barrows — and here our path runs into
the road that comes up from Lower Hatchwell. Following this north-
ward for about ^ m. we reach Challacombe (2^ m. from Widecombe),
which consists of a farm and a couple of cottages. Headland Warren
House, mentioned in Ex. 22, is i m. further up the valley, but we do
not now make our way thither. We turn here, but instead of retracing
our steps to Lower Hatchwell, we shall follow the road that we see
running down by the side of the West Webburn, and which leads
onward to Grendon and Cator (Ex. 44). The lonely house on the R.
as we proceed is Soussons (Ex. 44), and soon after passing this we
reach Grendon Bridge. This is the road by which the coaches from
Widecombe pass up the valley, the one running up from Lower Hatch-
well not being suited to such traffic. We are now again on the line of
the old Church Way, and shall follow it eastward from the bridge, as
in R. 5 C, over Hill Head and past Lower Blackaton and Lower Hatch-
well, to the point where it begins to climb Gore Hill. There we leave
it, and following the road R. for about •£ m. to the second turning L.
at Langworthy, shall speedily regain the common £ m. from Church
Lane Head. We shall reach the path there by striking a little S. of W.
S. Ex. 86. — Dunstone Down, Rowden Down, and Jordan Ball, 5^ m.
Leaving the village by the Ponsworthy road we take the first turning
R. and pass up the hill towards Southcombe, our way lying over
the track already described (T. 52). We reach Dunstone Down
at Southcombe Gate, and shall find our way over it clearly marked
by the path. A little way on we leave the broader track and take
the footpath leading down the slope to the stroll by which Rowden
DOVSD is approached, the direction being W.S.W. (R. 42 B.) On
98 EXCURSIONS FROM WIDECOMBE.
reaching the latter we shall make our way to the summit, which
is known as Rowden Ball. Here is a small tor, and near to it is a
dilapidated cairn, much overgrown, with a hollow sunk in the centre,
from which stones appear to have been taken. It seems to have been
formerly surrounded by a circle of stones and a low bank, but only
parts of these now remain. Joined to it is an enclosure of an oblong
form. Near the northern edge of the down is Rowden Farm, on the
road leading to Lower Cator ; from its western verge a track leads to
Broadford Farm, on the brook of that name, which falls into the
West Webburn immediately below it ; and from its southern side
the path which we deserted in order to examine this despoiled cairn
runs down between the enclosures to the little common known as
Jordan Ball. The air of semi-wildness worn by this part of the moor
is very charming. Heathery downs delightfully intermingle with
little irregularly shaped crofts, many of them very ancient, and which
speak of a time when the early farm settlers forced their way into
these upland valleys. To the path last mentioned we now direct our
steps, and descend the side of Jordan Ball to the Webburn, just before
reaching which we pass the entrance to East Shallowford. Built into
the wall on the L. of this is a large stone of the kind formerly used for
hanging gates, and of which several examples have been noticed.
(Ex. 20, S. Ex. 50). In its centre the circular hollow that received
the stanchion will be seen. Just below is the shallow ford on the
West Webburn which gives name to this farm and to the neighbour-
ing one on the further bank of the stream. Here there is a clapper of
three openings, and crossing over this we pass up to West Shallowford,
immediately above which the road from Ponsworthy, Pound's Gate,
and Dartmeet comes L. from Lock's Gate Cross, and runs R. to Cator
and the forest (R. 42 B).
Descending to the stream we shall again cross it, and make our
way down by the L. bank to Jordan Mill, and the hamlet of that name.*
From near this a footpath runs across some fields to Bittleford Farm,
where is a fine old granite doorway bearing the date 1706. Having
reached this we shall follow the road that leads from it to Bittleford
Down, and striking N. shall make for our next point, Wind Tor, which
is rather over •£ m. distant. Here we turn E. and cross the turf to
Higher Dunstone, where we reach the Widecombe road. We turn L.
towards the village, but a few score yards on shall leave the road at the
turning R. in order to visit Lower Dunstone, which is close by. On
the green is a large block of stone having a hollow on its surface, and in
this, it is said, the chief rents were deposited when the manor courts
were held here in the open air, as was formerly the case. The late
Mr. Robert Dymond, the owner of the manor, revived this old
usage in 1878. In this connection it is interesting to notice a
custom formerly observed in some parts of Sweden by the peasantry
of throwing small pieces of money into the rock basins as they passed
them, and in which it has been thought a relic of the superstitious
veneration in which they were held might be traced. The manor of
* If we adopt the moorman's pronounciation of the name of the
hill in the northern part of the moor, already visited — Kennon, near
Throwleigh (Ex. 18, 19) — it is possible to agree with the statement
that Canaan and Jordan are both to be found on Dartmoor.
EXCURSIONS FROM WIDECOMBE. 99
Dunstone was bestowed by the Conqueror on Ralph de Pomeraie, and
remained in that family for at least two centuries. Returning to the
road we shall make our way back to Widecombe.
S. Ex. 87. — Venton, Blackslade Down, Foale's Arrishes, Tor Hill,
and the Ruggle Stone, 4 m. Opposite to the Old Inn a road runs easterly
along the south side of the open space in front of the churchyard gate.
This we shall now follow, and crossing the Webburn at Venton Bridge,
just below which is a manorial bondmark called Hennaford Stone,
shall reach the Ruggle Stone Inn, and may if we choose make our way
direct to the logan on the verge of the common near by from which it
takes its name. Or we may turn L. at Venton, a little further on, and
keeping close to the enclosures, on that hand, be speedily led to
it. (Another route is by way of Widecombe Hill : about £ m. from
Northway Bridge the limits of the enclosed land on the R. will be
reached, and here the rambler must turn in that direction, again turn-
ing R. at the second corner, when he will see the rock just below him ;
it is only £ m. from the road). As our present excursion will bring us
to this object we defer our remarks concerning it, and shall therefore
pass through Venton, where on the little green we shall notice an
upping-stock formed by steps cut in a large granite boulder, and
follow the road to Chittleford. Here are two very good examples
of the granite porches of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, one
exhibiting the date 1686 and the other 1741. Passing up the hill we
very shortly reach a gate L. where a path runs across a field to a lane
leading past Blackslade, the seat of the late Mr. Robert Dymond, to
the commons. (The road goes on by Scobitor to Pudsham Down, and
crossing the Ruddycleave Water runs up the side of Buckland Common
to Cold East Cross, R. 32, Ex. 26). On passing Blackslade, which
appears in Domesday as Blacheslach, the down of that name is reached
at the foot of the stroll below Tunhill Rocks (R. 5 B). The gate of
Tunhill Farm is hi the further corner of the stroll, and running from it
is the old track we have already described (T. 51). This we now follow
up the hill R., and in rather less than \ m. shall reach a fine example of
a kistvaen, discovered several years ago buried beneath a cairn. It
will be seen to the L. of the track. Here it was that the wicked Jan
Reynolds once entered into a compact with a stranger, who turned
out to be the Prince of Darkness, and failing to keep it became his
victim. Seven years after the meeting Jan was discovered indulging
in a nap in Widecombe Church on a Sunday afternoon, and it was the
appearance of Satan there to claim him that occasioned the great
thunder-storm which we have already spoken of. Jan was borne
away on the fiend's black steed, when some cards that he held in his
liand were dropped on the moor, and are now to be seen, in a trans-
formed state, near the old Vitifer Mines. (Ex. 22).
We strike S. from the kistvaen to Whittaburrow, a cairn which
we see on the hill a short distance off. The E. side of this hill descends
to the Ruddycleave Water, here generally called the Blackslade Water,
and which rises near by in Blackslade Mire. This part of the moor is
noticed hi Ex. 26. Returning to the Tunhill road, we cross it, leaving
the kistvaen R., and make our way to Tunhill Rocks, a rather striking
pile rising on the verge of the down. Thence we shall direct our step's
eastward to a cluster of hut circles, about \ m. distant, and in a line
TOO EXCURSIONS FROM WIDECOMBE.
between us and Hemsworthy Gate, to which they are near. Some of
these ruined dwellings are placed within small rectangular enclosures
formed by low reaves, and bearing the name of Foale's Arrishes.
These remains are partly covered with vegetation, and there is little
about them likely to detain the ordinary visitor, but they possess an
interest for the antiquary. Although this example of huts within
enclosures such as these is not altogether unique on Dartmoor, the
arrangement is one that is not usually seen. (A description of the
common between the slope on which these remains are situated and
Rippon Tor, S.E., as well as of the tor itself, will be found in Ex. 26).
A short distance northward of Foale's Arrishes is Top Tor, or, as
the natives call it, Tapter. That part of the common immediately
around it is usually referred to as Tor Hill, the other piles that con-
tribute to the appropriateness of the name being Pil Tor, W. of the
Arrishes, and Hollow Tor, to the N.W. of that, but they are neither
of them very large. Hollow Tor, a little northward of which is a bond-
mark known as Shovel Stone, should be the last to be visited, and from
there the rambler will strike W. down the hill to the Ruggle Stone,
£ m. distant. When we draw near the walls of the enclosures we bear
a little to the R., and speedily arrive at that object. The Ruggle Stone
is a huge mass of granite resting on the rocks in such a manner as to
slightly "log," though it used to be said that it could only be set in
motion with the aid of the church key. It is about 22 feet in length
and 1 6 feet wide. Close to it is another " logging " stone, but one of a
different character. It resembles a large slab, and is not more than
half the length of the other. The weight of the larger rock has been
computed to be about 1 1 5 tons.
Having brought our wanderings over this part' of the Widecombe
Commons to a close we shall now return to the village, which we may
do either by way of the Ruggle Stone Inn, or by turning northward
to the road and descending to Northway Bridge.
Ponsworthy, Pound's Gate, and other places near the southern end
of the Widecombe valley, are noticed in our Ashburton excursions.
Roads out of Wideeombe.
To Natsworthy and Heytree Cross : S. Ex. 83. This is also the
Chagford, North Bovey, and Moreton road.
To Bonehill Down and Swine Down Gate : S. Ex. 83 ; R. 53.
To Bovey Tracey, via Widecombe Hill and Hemsworthy Gate : R. 5 A.
To Ashburton, via Cold East Cross : S. Ex. 87, to Chittleford ;
up the hill to Pudsham Down ; descend to the Ruddycleave Water ;
up the hill to Cold East Cross ; turn R. as in R. 32.
To BucKland : S. road from the village for i m. ; turn L. at guide-
post to Cockingford ; up the hill to Stone Cross ; turn R. ; straight on.
To Ponsworthy and Dartmeet : S. road from the village ; turn neither
R. nor L. Ponsworthy is reached in 2^ m. ; thence as in R. 42 A.
To Grendon Cot (branches to Cator) : S. road from the village for
rather over i m., passing the turning to Cockingford. Then turn R.
to Bittleford Down, and keep R. At guide-post continue N. for i m.
when turn L. to Lower Hatchwell ; thence over Hill Head.
ROUTE 39. BOVEY TRACEY TO ASHBURTON. 101
Routes from Bovey Traeey.
R. 39. — To Ashburton, S.W. Leverton, New Inn, Bickington,
•j\ m. Reverse, R. 54. The route via Ilsington is given in §. Ex. 81 ;
this is about 8 m.
This is a road route. The pedestrian will cross the railway at
Ashburton Bridge, as in S. Ex. 81, and will bear R. at the first junction.
\ m. on, at Brimley Corner, he will strike L., the direction of the road
tow being about S. When it begins to bend westward he must leave
in for another running L. through Leverton. About i m. beyond this
the Exeter and Plymouth highway will be reached, the New Inn
standing near the junction of the roads. Her* the visitor will turn R.,
and passing through Bickington, \\ m. S.W., will reach Ashburton in
another 3 m.
R. 40. — To Brent and Ivybridge, S.W. B., 15! m. /., 2o| m.
For points and directions vide R. 39, 47. Reverse, R. 65.
R. 41. — To Plympton and Shaugh, S.W. by W. P., 27 m. S.,
via Ivybridge and Cornwood, 29 m. For points and directions vide
R- 39. 47. 55. 56, 57- Reverse, R. 72.
The first part of this route is the same as R. 39, 47, which give
directions for reaching Ivybridge. Thence the road to Plympton is
described in R. 55, and that to Shaugh in R. 57. Should the visitor
desire to make his way over the moor to Shaugh, he may either branch
off at Buckfastleigh or Brent. In the former case he must consult
R. 48, which gives the necessary directions, while R. 56 describes the
way from Brent. Distance from Buckfastleigh across the moor to
Shaugh, via Shipley and Three Barrows, 14^ m. ; from Brent, via Owley
and Harford, 12 m.
R. 42. — To Princetown, W. by S. (A) Hey Tor Down, Hems-
worthy Gate, Newhouse, Pudsham Down, Cockingford, Ponsworthy,
Dartmeet, Hexworthy, Swincombe. P.T., i6£ m. ; T.B., 17^ m. T.B.,
via Dunnabridge from Dartmeet, 16 m. (B) Hemsworthy Gate, Black-
slade, Dunstone Down, Rowden Down, West Shallowford, Bellaford
Bridge, Cherry Brook, Two Bridges. T.B., 15^ m. P.T., 17 m.
{C) Hemsworthy Gate, Widecombe, Gore Hill, Grendon Bridge, Runnage,
Post Bridge, Two Bridges. T.B., i6£ m. ; P.T., 18 m. Reverse, R. 5.
Route A is the most convenient.
[Objects: Exs. 25, 26, 27, 44, 46, 5.]
(A) Ascending the hill leading to the commons from the station,
we pass Five Wyches Cross and Lower Down Cross (Ex. 24), and
2 m. from our starting-point shall reach Hey Tor Down (S. Ex. 82,
Ex. 25). Still following the road we make our way past Shot Planta-
tion and Lud Gate (L.), afterwards leaving Hey Tor and Saddle Tor
R. 2 m. from Lud Gate we reach reach Hemsworthy Gate, 5^ m. from
Bovey Station. Passing through this we turn L., following the road
with Rippon Tor L-, and when just beyond the ruined enclosures of
102 ROUTE 42. BOVEY TRACEY TO PRINCETOWN.
Newhouse, R. (Ex. 26), shall leave the road and strike S.W. down the
side of Yarder to the bridge over the Ruddycleave Water. Crossing
this we mount the hill, having enclosures L. and Pudsham Down R.
At the first fork we keep L. ; at the second we bear R., and descend
to Cockingford Mill on the East Webburn. This stream we cross,
and pass up the hill to the Widecombe (R.) and Ponsworthy (L.) road.
(This point may be reached from Hemsworthy Gate by way of Black-
slade, as in B. post, the rambler turning L. on striking the Widecombe
and Ponsworthy road, which he will do immediately after passing
through Lower Dunstone). We turn L., and in about i m. shall
arrive at Ponsworthy. Here a steep lane branches R., and making
our way up this we presently reach Sherberton Common at Lock's
Gate Cross. Here two lanes runs northward, and the road also forks
towards the south. We take the right hand one of the latter branches,
and make our way over the common, with some enclosures R., our
course being a little S. <5f W. At Ouldsbroom Cross, i m. from Pons-
worthy, a road runs R. to Sherwell and another L. to Pound's Gate,
but we keep straight on, and descend the long steep hill to Dartmeet.
Passing up Hart Hole Lane we soon reach a gate, L., where the road
runs down to Huccaby, and goes on to Holne. From this point we
may either continue straight on, and follow the road past Dunnabridge
Pound (Ex. 42) and Prince Hall Lodge (Ex. 4) to Two Bridges, or make
our way across the moor. The rambler bound for Two Bridges should
keep to the road, but if Princetown be his destination he will shorten the
distance by about i£ m. by adopting the latter course. If he decide
upon this he will pass through the gate, and just beyond Huccaby
(this is R., St. Raphael's Chapel L.), will cross the West Dart at Hex-
worthy Bridge, and climb the hill to the Forest Inn. The way then
lies up over the bit of common by the side of that hostelry to the Gobbet
and Sherburton road.* Here he will turn R., and proceeding for
about 300 yards will enter the gate in the corner of the enclosure L.
From this point we shall follow the Princetown and Hexworthy
track (T. 8), which is well defined throughout. It will first lead us to
another gate, and thence down the side of the hill, with the enclosures
called the Arrishes R., to Swincombe Ford and the Fairy Bridge
(Ex. 4).
[Two Bridges is reached from this point by passing through the
short lane leading from the further bank of the stream to Swincombe
Newtake, and following the somewhat imperfectly marked track that
runs over it in a north-westerly direction to Prince Hall Bridge (T. 10).
There the West Dart is crossed, and the road leading by the house to
the Dartmeet and Two Bridges highway is followed. There turn L.,
and in i m. the last-named place will be reached.]
Crossing the stream we turn L. and follow the track W. imme-
diately hi front of Swincombe farmhouse (T. 8)4 and speedily reach
Tor Royal Newtake, or the same point may be gained by passing
at the back of the house. Hence the way lies by Cholake Head, the
Crock of Gold, Bull Park, and Tor Royal Lodge, as hi Ex. 4. The
distance from Hexworthy to Princetown by this route is 4^ m.
* This leads to the forest holding noticed in Ex. 42, which is not
connected with the common named above.
ROUTE 42. BOVEY TRACEY TO PRINCETOWN. 103
(B) To Hemsworthy Gate as in A. Thence the visitor will strike
W. by S. across the common to Pil Tor, •£ m., passing Poale's Arrishes
(S. Ex. 87) on the way. These he will leave L. From the tor he
will make his way to Tunhill Rocks, £ m. W.S.W., and thence down
the narrow stroll below. In the left hand" bottom corner of this is the
road leading to Blackslade, which is close by ; the road in the corner
R. goes to Tunhill Farm, also quite near. Passing in front of Black-
slade we shall make our way down the path through the fields to the
lane, and descend to Chittleford. Here we turn L., and almost imme-
diately afterwards R., and £ rn. on cross the East Webburn at Dunstone
Bridge, thence passing through the hamlet of Lower Dunstone (S. Ex.
86), to the Widecombe and Ponsworthy road. (If it is now desired
to follow route A, the rambler will turn L., and in about \ m. will
find himself at the head of the road coming up L. from Cockingford
Mill, from which point the directions given in that route must be
followed). Turning L. we proceed southward for about 100 yards,
and then take the turning R. to Higher Dunstone, on the verge of
Dunstone Down. Striking across the common in a westerly direction,
and passing close to Wind Tor, we gain the road running up towards
Lower Blackaton in about | m., and follow it N.W. We pass the first
turning L., where a lane leads to Dockwell and Jordan Mill, but turn
down the next on that side, which is a stroll extending to Rowden
Down (S. Ex. 86). We keep close to the walls on the L. and shortly,
when near the southern extremity of the little common, pass into a
lane between some enclosures and follow it down the side of Jordan
Ball to the clapper on the West Webburn (T. 52). Crossing this we
pass up by West Shallowford to the road running along the foot of
Corn Down, and leading from Lock's Gate Cross above Ponsworthy,
L., to Cator and Bellaford Bridge R. (Ex. 44). We cross it and climb
the hill, our course being a little N. of W. Descending the W. side of
the ridge we strike the Walla Brook about midway between Babeny
L. and Riddon R. Should the stream be in flood we shall have to
make our way to one or other of those places in order to cross it, but
usually this can be easily done at the point we have reached. On
gaming the R. bank we are in the forest, and have now to pass over
Riddon Bridge to Bellaford Bridge, \\ m. distant. (If we cross at
Riddon our course will be N.W. by W. ; if at Babeny our way will lie
between the newtakes to the southern part of the ridge, and thence
N.N.W., with the East Dart not far below us L. ; the course from the
point on the bank of the stream first reached is N.W.) Bellaford
Bridge is on the old Lich Path (T. 18), and on reaching it we follow
that track to the Princetown road. It will lead us up by Bellaford
Farm and across the side of Lakehead Hill, with the wall of that
extensive newtake close to us on the L. throughout the way. On
reaching the road at Higher Cherry Brook Bridge we turn L. and
follow the instructions given in R. 35. Two Bridges is 2 m., and
Princetown 3^ m. distant.
(C) Our first point will be Hemsworthy Gate, vide A. Here we
bear R. to the forks of the road a short distance on, where is a guide-
post. We take the L. branch as in S. Ex. 82, and shortly after com-
mence the descent of the steep Widecombe Hill. At its foot we cross
the East Webburn and speedily find ourselves in the village, which is
rather over \\ m. from Hemsworthy. From the church the road
io4 ROUTE 43. BOVEY TRACEY TO TAVISTOCK.
running N.W. must be followed for a short distance, when the rambler
will turn L., and make his way up the steep lane to the common
(S. Ex. 85). He is now on the ancient Church Way (T. 76), which runs
from Widecombe to Post Bridge. On the common it is a plainly marked
green track, the direction of which is about N.W. Soon after leaving
the fields R. there is a branch L. to Hatchwell, but this must not be
followed. In £ m. from the point at which we enter on the down we
reach tfie corner of an enclosure, and keeping this L. shall turn into a
narrow way between rough granite walls, 1 50 yards further on. This
is Gore Hill, and it will lead us down to Lower Hatchwell, where we
cross the Broadford Brook. We now climb the steep ascent by Lower
Blackaton, and passing Hill Head, descend to Grendon Bridge. Cross-
ing the West Webburn we follow the road westward to Ephr aim's
Pinch (Ex. 44), and thence to Runnage Bridge, where the Walla Brook
is crossed. The road then goes on to the Princetown highway, nearly
I m. distant, where we turn L. The directions given in R. 35 must now
be followed. Two Bridges is 4^ m. from the point where we emerge
on the high road, and Princetown 6 m.
R. 43. — To Tavistock, W. by S. R. 42 A, Bovey to Princetown,
and R. i, Princetown to Tavistock, from this route. 25 m. Reverse,
R. ii.
From Hemsworthy Gate to the junction of the Cockingford and
Ponsworthy roads the route through Blackslade may be followed, see
R. 42 B. If the rambler does not cross the moor by way of Hexworthy,
but follows the road from the gate above Huccaby to Two Bridges,
he will, of course, not touch Princetown, but will go direct from the
last-named place to Rundle Stone. For directions as to this see
R. 36 A.
R. 44. — To Lydford, W. by N. (A) Via SHALLOWFORD AND BELLA-
FORD BRIDGE : Lower Down Cross, Hemsworthy Gate, Blackslade,
Dunstone Down, Rowden Down, Shallowford, Bellaford Bridge, Cherry
Brook, Longaford Tor, Bear Down Newtake Wall, Lich Path, White
Barrow, Hill Bridge, Down Lane, 24 m. (B) Via WIDECOMBE AND
POST BRIDGE : Hemsworthy as above, Widecombe, Gore Hill, Grendon
Bridge, Runnage Bridge, Post Bridge, Princetown Road, Arch Tor,
Longaford Tor, thence as above, 25 m. Reverse, R. 18.
[Objects: Exs. 25, 26, 27, 44, 46, 5, 10.]
(A) Via Shallowford. This route is identical with R. 42 B, as far
as the bridge over the Cherry Brook on the road between Post Bridge
and Two Bridges. Here the rambler will strike north-westward
across the head of Gawler Bottom, with the Cherry Brook and the old
Powder Mills L. When he has passed the latter, that is to say, when
about \ m. from the road, he will turn towards Longaford, which rises
prominently on the ridge to the W., his direction now being W.N.W.
In \ m. from the brook the tor will be reached. The rambler must
leave it L. and descend to the WTest Dart, which he will strike at Wist-
man's Wood Ford, or where the Foxholes Water joins the river, just
above it (Ex. 5). Here the wall of Bear Down Newtake is carried over
the hill in front, running westerly from this point. The rambler will
follow it, keeping it L., and in about i m. will reach Travellers' Ford,
on the Cowsic (Ex. 5). He will now find himself on the Lich Path
(T. 1 8), which he will follow W. In i^ m. the Prison Leat is reached.
ROUTE 44. BOVEY TRACEY TO LYDFORD. 105
and just beyond it Sandy Ford, on the Walkham. The old path then
ascends the western side of the shallow valley, where it is joined by the
peat track from Walkham Head to Peter Tavy (T. 16), and then passes
close to White Barrow, which is seen L. (Ex. 8, Extension). When the
hill is crossed the peat track bends L., and the traces of the Lich Path
are lost for a time. The rambler should now strike a little N. of W.
down the slope to the wall of Longbetor Newtake, when this must be
kept L. Very soon he will enter the stroll formed by this and other
enclosures of Longbetor Farm on one hand, and those belonging to
Bagga Tor Farm on the other. He will cross this stroll, and keeping
the wall of South Common (the largest of the Bagga Tor enclosures)
R., will find himself again on the line of the Lich Path (on this part of
which the later Black Lane was formed, T. 19). His course is now due
W. In less than | m. he will reach the end of the stroll, and passing
through a gate will still follow the track, with Bagga Tor R. Ere he
has gone far he will notice another gate L., where he will leave the down,
and make his way by the road for about \ m. nearly to Wapsworthy
Bridge (Ex. 8), where he will enter a gate R. and follow a path across
three fields to Hill Bridge, on the Tavy. From this point the way to
Lydford by Hill Town, Yard Gate, Forstall Cross, and Down Lane
has already been described (R. 2 A).
(Another route from the common near Bagga Tor may be followed,
but not when the Tavy is in flood, as the river has to be crossed at
some stepping-stones. Instead of passing through the gate on the L. to
the road, the rambler should still follow the ancient track as it runs
down the hill, past Brousen Tor Farm to the Bagga Tor Brook, which
he will cross at Bagga Tor Clapper (Ex. 10), and then leaving the path,
which runs on to Standon Farm, will strike N.W. to Willsworthy Ford,
or Standon Steps, as the crossing-place is more aften called, \ m.
distant, and less than that above Cataloo Steps, where the Bagga Tor
Brook falls into the Tavy. Having gamed the further bank of that
river, the rambler will pass upward to Willsworthy, as in Ex. 10. The
path to Forstall Cross from Willsworthy Pound by way of Willsworthy
Brook and Yellowmead is noticed in that excurison.
(B) Via Widecombe and Post Bridge. This route is the same as
R. 42 C to the ninth milestone from Moreton, on the Princetown road,
and rather over \ m. S.W. of Post Bridge.* Here the rambler will leave
the road and strike nearly due W. towards Arch Tor, the small mass
of rock seen on the hillside across Gawler Bottom, and about \ m.
distant. Just below it is the Powder Mills Leat, which must be fol-
lowed downward to a footbridge. Crossing this, and still steering W.,
the way lies over Cherry Brook and the ridge beyond it, to a point a
little northward of Longaford Tor. When this is reached the rambler
will be on the line described ante.
* In R. 42 C. the tourist is referred to R. 35. He may either join
the latter as described in R. 42 C., that is, by following the road from
Runnage Bridge to the highway, or he may turn L. when about half
way to the latter and reach it at the point where the Wesleyan Chapel
stands. By so doing he will be led past Lower Meripit, one of the
ancient forest tenements.
i o6 ROUTE 45. BOVEY TRACEY TO OKEHAMPTON.
R. 45. — To Okehampton and Belstone, N.W. by W. The more
direct route is through Chagford ; see R. 46 and R. 38. 22 m.
Reverse, R. 24 and R. 3 1 . The following is the moor route :
Lower Down Cross, Trendlebere Down, Leigkon, Swine Down Gate,
Heytree Cross, Heather combe, Hookney Down, Bovey River, South Teign,
Teign Clapper, White Moor Stone, Taw Plain. Distance about the
same. Reverse, R. 25.
[Objects : Ex. 24 to 17.]
From Bovey Station the rambler will pass up the hill as in the
preceding routes, but will turn R. at Lower Down Cross (rather less
than i m.), from which point to Swine Down he will find the route
described in Ex. 24. It will lead him by the Lower Terrace Drive past
Yarner Wood, beyond which he will cross the slope of Black HU1 to
the Leighon road, and descend to the bridge below that place ; thence,
Bissing Great Hound Tor Farm, he will climb the hill to Hound Tor
own, and be led direct to Swine Down Gate (R. 25, 32, 53). He will
enter this and take the road L., which will lead him along the edge of
Swine Down and Cripdon Down to Heytree Cross, i-J- m. from the gate.
Here he must turn L., and passing Heytree will, in about f m., reach
a short lane leading by Heathercombe (S. Ex. 62) to the common.
From this point the course will be W.N.W. for over 3 m., which will
bring him to the head of Metheral Bogs on the common lands belonging
to the parish of Chagford. First he will reach King Tor (Ex. 22),
£ m. from Heathercombe, and passing over Hookney Down will cross
the Challacombe and Grendon road i m. further on, and J m., beyond
this the Princetown and Moreton road, whence lie will descend to
the Bovey river, £ m. below (Ex. 21). About \ m. beyond this the
rambler will find himself at the head of the Metheral Bogs. Keeping
this mire on his R. he will strike due N., and in another \ m. will
reach the road running out to Fernworthy, which farm is in full view
(Ex. 20), and which will bring him to the South Teign. (See R. 25
for remarks on crossing this stream). At the corner of the Fernworthy
enclosures eastward of the house he will take a northerly course, and
passing the Long Stone, i m., and keeping Kes Tor R., will make
his way to Batworthy Corner, his course being due N. from the menhir.
Here he is near the antiquities noticed hi Ex. 20. His course is now
N.N.W. to the North Teign, the path being close to the wall of Bat-
worthy enclosures, which are R. Crossing the river at Teign Clapper,
close to the holed Stone (Ex. 19), he will make his way over Scorhill
Down past the stone circle which he will see on the slope before him.
Hence a walk of 2 m., the course being N.W., will bring him to the
shoulder of Kennon Hill, near White Moor Stone, from which point
the route is the same as R. 38 B, which will also show the way to
Belstone.
If bound for Sticklepath the rambler will steer N. from Scorhill
Circle, and make his way over the down, with Berry Down Stroll and
Creber R. (Ex. 19), to the detached newtake on the side of Buttern
Hill, J m. He will pass below this, and bearing a little to the R., will
soon reach Ensworthy, where he will strike the road running on to
Shilstone Tor (Ex. 18), from which point the directions given in R. 38 A
must be followed.
ROUTE 46. BOVEY TRACEY TO CHAGFORD. 107
R. 46. — To Moreton and Chagford, N.W. Atwayt Woolley,
King's Cross, Slade, Kelly, Wray Cleave, Wray Barton, Hayne, Moreton ;
thence to Chagford. To Moreton, 6£ m. ; to Chagford, 1 1 m. Reverse,
R. 31-
This is a road route. The way lies by Cross Cottage and Atway, as
hi S. Ex. 72. About | m. beyond the latter the visitor will bear L. to
Woolley, whence he will keep R. to King's Cross, i m. from Bovey.
Still bearing R. his next point will be Slade, where is a guide-post, and
another further on at Kelly Cross. From, this point he will bear N.W.,
and will soon reach a milestone marking 3f- m. from Bovey and from
Moreton, where a road turns I,, to I/ustleigh. The way still runs N.W.,
with Wray Cleave R.
(For the route between Moreton and Chagford see beginning of
Chagford District).
CRANMEKE. See Routes from Chagford ante. Those from Post
Bridge, or the Warren House Inn, which are reached by R. 42 C.t
are given in Part I.
[Near the southern entrance to the church at Moreton, and in the
main thoroughfare, stand the remains of an old cross on an octagonal
pedestal of granite. On this base also once flourished the pollard elm,
so long the pride of Moreton, known as the Cross Tree, and also, from
its shape, as the Punch Bowl Tree. Its branches were so trained that
they formed a huge bowl, as it were, and a table and seats being fixed
within this, many convivial meetings were held there. The one-time
president of these gatherings was a certain Red-post Fynes, so called
from his custom of painting the gate-posts of his fields a bright red.
He is stated in Mrs. Bray's Tamar and Tavy, published in 1836, to have
been unable to spell even the commonest words. Nevertheless, he on:e
accomplished the feat of spelling the word " usage," and, what is more,
he did it without employing a single letter belonging to it. He rendered
it " yowzitch." Mr. E. Tozer, who wrote under the name of Tickler,
has fastened this story upon a certain John Roberts, who once lived
on the moor, and unfortunately this has been repeated. A floor was
laid in the Punch Bowl Tree, so that the worthies who gathered there
were made as comfortable as though they had been in the " best inn's
best room." But it was not only talk that was engaged in. Sometimes
dancing took place there on summer evenings. At that time Moreton
had a sort of fashionable season, and many guests used to stay at the
I/ondon Inn, near by. These reached the tree by ascending some steps
in the garden of the inn to the top of the wall, from which a bridge was
laid to the leafy ballroom. There was sufficient room for a goodly
company and for six couples to dance. Some French officers, who in
the early part of the nineteenth century lived at Moreton as prisoners
of war on parole, formed a band, and used to play on the tree. It will
be remembered that the elm figures as the Dancing Tree in Blackmore's
Christowell. Much injury was done to it by a storm in October, 1891,
and at another time by a passing circus wagon, and in September, 1903,
a heavy gale completed the wreck, the tree being then blown down.]
Index.
Ashwell Lane 83
Assacombe, 13, 17 ; Brook. . 53
Atway 82
Aune Head .. .. 50, 51
B
Bag Tor, 81 ; 90 ; Down, 79 ;
Mire, 92.
Barn House Barton . . 84
Barracott 37
Barramoor Bridge . . . . 48
Barton Down 40
Battey Meres 10
Batworthy (Bovey) . . . . 3
Batworthy (Teign), 12 ; Corner,
12, 15.
Bawden, Moses 22
Becky, The, 75, 79 ; Cottage, 89 ;
Fall, 75, 88, 89.
Beetor, 4 ; Bridge, 4 ; Cross, 4, 34
Bennet's Cross 20
Beridon. See Berry Down.
Berry Down .. 5, 11, 28
Berry Pound 35
Birch Tor 20
Bishop's Stone, The . . 72
Bittleford Down . . . . 49
Black Hill (Hey Tor) . . 76, 80
Blackaton Brook . . . . 3
Blackingstone Rock . . . . 40
Blackstone (N. Teign) . . 10
Blackystone (Bridford) . . 40
Bonehill, 95 ; Down, 77, 95 ;
Rocks, 65, 78.
Bot Tor 82
Bovey, The .. 18, 19, 83
Bovey Bridge . . . . 36, 37
Bovey Combe Head .. 18,25
Bovey, North. See North
Bovey.
Bovey Tracey, 61, 62, 69;
Crosses at, 69.
Bowden Mill 35
Bowerman's Nose .. 74, 75
Bowling Green, The . . 47
Bradford Pool 47
Brady Park 82
Brent Moor House .. .. 55
Bridford 39
Brimstone Down 3, n, 15
.Britten, Capt 36
Broadmead Cottage . . . . 36
Brownhills 13
Budd, P. N 12
Bughead Cross . . . . 3, 4, 34
Bush Down 19
Butterdon (Moreton) . . 42
Buttern Hill 5
Challacombe Down . . . . 22
Chappie, William . . . . 46
Chericombe Head .. .. 83
Chinkwell Tor . . . . 65, 77
Chittlef ord 99
Chough Gully 20
Christow, 39, 40 ; Common, 40
Circular Stones 31
Clampitt Down 40
Clifford Bridge . . . . 40, 41
Coal Mures (Hameldon) . . 96
Coaker, Jonas 68
Cold East Cross . . . . 49
Collerewe 3
Collihole 31
Combe Farm, 45 ; Vale . . 45
Corndon, Higher . . . . 19
Cosdon 39
Cranbrook Castle, 41, 42 ; Down,
4i, 42, 43-
Cranmere 56 to 60
Creber Pound . . . . 5, 27
Cripdon Down . . . . 48, 77
Crock of Gold 102
Cross Cottage 82
Croker, Dr 74, 8 1
Cross Furzes 50
Cuckoo Stone 5
INDEX.
XVlll.
D
Davy, Rev. William . . . . 70
Deal Copse 89
Dog, A Faithful . . . . 23
Dogamarsh Bridge . . . . 44
Dolphin Hotel 82
Drewsteignton 45
Drewston 2
Druids' Altar 40
Duke Stone 79
Dunsford Bridge . . . . 40
Easdon 37
East Down . . . . 35, 37
Easton 41
Ellimore 85, 86
Ellis, William 91
Elsford Rock 84
Endacott, James . . . . 9
Ensworthy 5
Fairbrook ........ 36
Fall, John ........ 34
Featherbed Lane . . . . 28
Fernworthy, 13 ; Clapper at, 13
Fingle Bridge, 43 ; Mill . . 43
Firth Bridge . . . . 34, 49
Fitz-Ralphs, The . . . . 67
Five Lanes ...... 82
Five Wyches Cross . . 75, 76
Flint Implements . . . . 12
Fo ale's Arrishes . . . . 100
Forder ........ 26
Forest Inn ........ 102
Four Aces, The . . . . 20
Foxes' Yard . . . . 85, 86
Foxworthy, 72, 73; Bridge, 85
Frenchbere ...... 3, 31
Froggymead Hill, 13, 14 ; Circle
on, 14, 29.
Furlong ........ 46
Furseleigh ........ 82
G
6, 8
Gallaven ......
Gates. See Moor Gates.
Gerrard, Rev. John . . . . 68
Giant's Grave ...... 41
Gidleigh, 26, 27 ; Castle, 27 ;
Chase, 27.
Gidleigh Park Bridge . . . . 47
Gobbet Plain 50
Golden Dagger Mine . . 22
Gore Hill 97
Gradner Rocks 88
Gratnar 48
Grave, A Little . . . . 36
Grea Tor 78
Great Hill Copse . . . . 84
Great Week 2
Green Combe 34
Grey, Rev. W 47
Grey Wethers, The, 14, 15, 29
Grini's Lake, 23 ; Pound, 23, 24,
34, 38.
H
Half Moon 73
Half Way House (Moreton), 2
Holshanger Cross . . . . 92
Hameldon, 35, 63, 64 ; Beacon,
96 ; Cross, 96.
Hammerslake 86
Hannaford,. J ames, 23 ; John, 23
Harton Chest 72
Harton, North, 85 ; Down. . 72
Harton, South . . 72, 85, 86
Hawkeswell 79
Hayne Cross, 74 ; Down, 74, 75
Hazelwood 82
Headland Warren . . 22, 49
Headless Cross 41
Heath Stone 12
Heathercombe 38
Hedge Barton . . . . 76, 77
Hel Tor 40
Hele, Cross at 35
Hemstone Rocks . . . . 14
Hemsworthy Gate . . . . 93
Heng Lake Gully . . 50, 5 1
Hennock 39, 83
Hew Down, 9 ; Glitter . . 9
Hew Lake, 10 ; Foot . . 10
Hewthorn Glitter . . . . 9
Hexworthy 50
Hey Tor, 80, 81, 82, 89 ; Down,
79 ; Railway, 80.
Hey Tor Vale 90
Heytree, 77 ; Common Lane, 77 ;
Cross, 48.
Highbury Bridge . . . . 3
Higher Terrace Drive, 75, 76, 78
Kingston Down (Moreton), 39 ;
Rocks, 39, 40.
INDEX.
Hisley, Higher, 85 ; Lower, 85
Hole Rock 79
Holed Stone (Tolmen), n, 12, 28
Holwell, 78 ; Cottage, 80 ;
Down, 80 ; Tor, 80.
Holy Street . . . . 3, 27
Honeybag Tor .. .. 65, 77
Hookaway 74
Hookney Tor 25
Horse Pit Cross . . . . 36, 37
Horsham Bay, 73 ; Cleave, 85 ;
Steps, 73, 85.
Hound Tor (Manaton), 48, 76 ;
Combe, 78, 93, 94 ; Down,
76, 77 ; Kist, 78.
Hourder Plantation . . . . 37
Howton 42
Hundred Acre Plantation, 45
Hunts Tor 44
Hunters' Tor 72, 85, 86 ; Path, 86
Hurston, 33 ; Castle, 19 ; Ridge,
1 6.
Ilsington, 90, 91 ; Common, 79
Inn Down 40
J
Jay's Grave 76
John Cann's Rocks . . . . 82
Jordan Ball 98
Jones, Rev. J. P 36
Jurston 4 ; Common, 4 ; Cross,
4 ; Gate, 4.
Kelly Corner 84
Kendpn 38
Kennick Reservoir . . . . 40
Kes Tor 30
Kiln Down 40
King Arthur 40
King's Barrow 25
King's Cross 48, 83
King's Oven .. .. 17, 18
Knowle Wood 84
L Corner 79
Lade Hill Bottom . . . . 54
Lakeland 19, 34
Lamb, Mr 9
Lambs Down Farm . . . . 50
Langdon 38
Langstone (Bovey) .. .. 39
Laployd Down 40
Leigh Bridge . . . . 3, 27
Leighon, 89 ; Tor . . 78, 80
Lemon, The 81
Lemson. See Lambs Down.
Letchole Plantation . . . . 87
Leusdon 49
Liapa 35
Lid Gate 50
Little Silver . . 73, 85, 87
Lock's Gate Cross . . 98, 102
Lower Down Cross . . 75, 76
Lower Terrace Drive 75, 76
Long Pool 79
Long Ridge .. .. 14, 1 5
Longstone (Kes Tor) . . 12
Lowton Brook, 16 ; Hut Circles,
1 6.
Luckdon, Higher, 39 ; Lower, 87
Lustleigh, 70 ; Inscribed Stone
at, 70.
Lustleigh Cleave 72, 83, 85
Lynscott 42
M
Manaton, 39, 73, 74, 87 ; Cross,
74 ; Rocks, 39.
Mandles 9
Manga Brook, 9 ; Hill, 9 ; Rock, 9
Mangersford 10
Map Stone 72
Mardon Down . . . . 40, 41
Mason, Rev. J . H 68
Maxima] or Stone . . . . 41
Meldon Hill (Chagford), 4, 16,
31, 35,48; Hall, 4, 33, 38
Meripit, Lower 105
Metheral (Chagford), 4, 16 ;
Bogs, 32 ; Brook, 16.
Middlecott 35
Mining Huts . . . . 6, 16
Moor Barton 84
Moor Gate .. .. 4, 19, 35
Moor Gates 19
Moor Park Hotel (Chagford), 44
Moorland Dwellings . . . . 31
Moortown 5
Mount Plaggon 47
Murchington . . . . 26, 46
INDEX.
N
Narrowcombe ...... 78
Natsworthy ...... 77, 96
Nattadon . . . . 32, 35, 48
Neadon Cleave ...... 73
New Bridge (Becky) .. 75
New Bridge (Wray) . . . . 70
Newhouse (Nr. Rippon Tor), 48
Newtake ........ 8
Niprell, The ...... 65
North Bovey, 35 to 39 ; Cross
at, 36.
North Hall ...... 67
North Hill Lane . . . . 3
North Teign ...... 10
Northcombe Copse . . . . 83
Nutcrackers (Lustleigh) . . 72
O
Ockment Hill ...... 8
Ockside Hill ...... 8
Old Jack ........ 79
Old William ...... 79
Ormerod, G. W. . . 30, 47
Owlacombe Barrow . . 78, 79
Packsaddle Bridge (Wray), 70,83
Padley Common .. 26, 31
Parson's Brown Loaf . . 72
Peck Pits 73
Pengelly, William . . . . 37
Pepperdon Down . . . . 40
Piddledown Common . . 44
Pixies' Parlour (Drewsteignton),
45-
Pixies' Parlour (Gidleigh), 5
Play Cross 50
Prestonbury 43
Prince of Wales . . . . 79
Puggie Stone 27
Punch Bowl, The . . . . 47
Punch Bowl Tree . . . . 107
Q
Quintin's Man
R
Ravens' Tor 85
Red Lake, 51 ; Clay Works, 55
Rippon Tor 80
Rival Tor
Roo, John
Round Pound
Rowden Ball, 98 ; Down
Royal Hill . .
6
II
II
49
52
Rue Lake (Teign), 6 ; Pit. . '6
Ruggle Stone 99
Rushford Barton, 47 ; Mill, 47 ;
Wood, 47.
80, 8 1
.. 47
Saddle Tor
Sands Gate
Sanduck
Sandy Hole . . . . 53, 54
Sandy Park, 45 ; Bridge.. ' 44
Scorhill Circle, n, 28 ; Rocks, 6
Seven Lords' Land . . . . 93
Shap Tor 83
Shapley Common, 35 ; Tor, 25
Sharp Tor (Lustleigh), 72, 85
Sharp Tor (Teign) . . . . 44
Sherburton Firs . . . . 50
Shilston (Drewsteignton) 46
Shilstone (Throwleigh) . . 26
Shorter Cross 35
Shovel Down Antiquities, 12, 30
Siddaford Tor 15
Silk House .... 13
Sig, The 81, 90
Skat Tor ^o
Skerraton Down eo
Slades Well 77
Smallacombe Rocks, 78, 79, 80
Soussons 07
South Harton . . 8 « 86
South Hill ,0
South Teign 3!
Spanish Lake $2
Spinsters' Rock, 45, 46 4.7
Spitchwick .. .. .. T. 50
Standon Steps 105
Steeperton Brook . . . . g
Stephens, William 67
Stiniel ] 4
Stone Cross . . . . '.[ 45
Stone Row at Challacombe, 22
Stone Tor .... Q
Stone Tor Hill . . ''.'. '10, 15
Stony Bottom '51
Swete, Rev. John . . . . 47
Swine Down, 48 ; Gate . . 76
INDEX.
Tannaford
Taw Rocks
Tawton Gate
Teign, North, 10 ;
Teign Clapper . .
Teigncombe, 3, 28
Lane, 28.
Teignhead Bridge, 9,
8, 9, 29.
Teignhead Gorge
Templer, George
Thorn (Chagford)
Thorn (N. Bovey)
Thornworthy, 31 ;
Tor, 13.
Three Boys.. ..
Throwleigh
Thurlestone
Tinhill Copse
Tolmen, The
Tom's Hill . .
Top Tor . .
Tottiford Reservoir
Trendlebere Down
Trowlesworthy Tors
Trumpeter
Tunhill, 99 ; Kist, 99 ;
U
Uppacott, 41, 42 ; Down
V
Varracombe, Great,
Little, 15.
Victoria
Vogwell Down . .
W
Walla Brook, 6, 10, I
10 ; Combe, 6, 8.
Walland Hill .. .
Wanford Wood .
Watching Place . . . . 34
.. .. 3
Water Cleave 86
.. .. 8
Water Hill 17
3. 16, 53
Watercombe 52
South, 3 1
Watern Tor, 6, 8, 29 ; Borough, 9
10, 28, 106
Waye Barton, 3, 16 ; Cross, 55
; Common
Waye Down 40
Weddicott, Higher . . . . 38
10 ; Farm,
Webburn, East, 63, 65 ; West, 63
Week Down . . . . 32, 35
.. .. 9
Westcombe Down . . . . 48
. . . . 80
Whiddon Down, 45 ; Park, 2, 44 ;
.. .. 3
Wood, 44.
3, 35
White Gate 93
Kist, 13;
White Hart Hotel (Moreton), 39
White Moor Stone . . . . 6
12
White Water 44
. . . . 26
Whitstone 40
8, 9 .
Whoodlake 10
. . . . 84
Whooping Rock . . . . 37
II, 12, 28
Widecombe, 65 to 68 ; Church,
. . .. 14
65, 66 ; Pair, 68 ; Hill, 94.
. . IOO
Wild Banks Newtake . . 54
. . . . 40
Wild Tor, 6, 8 ; Well, 6, 8
• • 72, 75
Wilford Bridge 83
.. 52
Willing's Hill 52
. . . . 89
Willingstone Rock . . . . 41
; Rocks, 99
Wind Tor 98
Wonson 26
Wood Hill 40
wn . . 42
Woolley 83
Wooston Castle 40, 41, 42
Worm Hill Bridge . . 4, 34
9, 15 ;
Wray, The 83, 84
Wray Cleave 48
. . . . 79
•• 38,77
Y
Yard 35
i ; Bridge,
Yardworthy 3
Yarner, 79 ; Wells, 75, 78, 79,
• •• 3
80 ; Wood, 75, 78, 79, 87, 88
. .. 85
Yellands 4
32, 33, 34
Yeo Bridge, 3 ; Mill . . . . 30
DA
6?0
D2C79
v.2
Crossing, *illiam
Guide to Dartmoor
r3d» ed.j
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